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Start With Purpose: Build the Van You’ll Actually Use

By Clayton Houser – Professional van builder (50+ full builds) If you want to build a camper van you’ll actually love using, start here. Clayton shows how a few purpose questions – weekend vs full-time, campgrounds vs boondocking, climate, people, and gear – shape every decision that follows (and prevent expensive regret later). This is the second article in Clayton's Van Build series - you can view the series homepage here. Before you buy tools, before you design cabinets, before you cut a single hole in the van, you need to answer one important question: Why are you building this van? I’ve worked on more than a hundred vans professionally, including over 50 complete builds. And if there’s one pattern I’ve seen over and over, it’s that when builders skip this step, they end up rebuilding things later – layouts, systems, even entire interiors. When builders get this step right, everything downstream gets easier. Most People Think They Know What They Want (Until They Actually Use a Van) A lot of people come into a build having done months of research. They’ve watched videos, saved layouts, and followed builds online. On paper, they’re confident. But many of them haven’t actually spent time living in a van. When I was building vans for customers, I’d always encourage them to rent one for a weekend or spend real time at a van show. And about a third of the time, people would come back and say, “I want to change everything.” That’s not because they did anything wrong. It’s because real use exposes assumptions. People imagine hosting dinner parties inside a van. Then they spend a weekend in one and realize most of their time is spent outside. Or they imagine convertible beds and elaborate seating. Then they realize setting up and breaking down a bed every day gets old fast. You can research forever. But nothing replaces using a van. You’ll learn more in two days on the road than weeks of planning. Purpose Isn’t Abstract – It’s Practical When I talk about “purpose,” I’m not talking about something philosophical. I’m talking about how the van will actually be used. These are the questions I always come back to: Will this be used full-time or mostly on weekends? Are you staying in campgrounds or boondocking? What climates are you traveling in? How many people are riding and sleeping? What gear needs to live or travel inside the van? Your answers drive everything else – layout, power, water, heating, storage, even the base van itself. If you don’t answer them honestly, you’ll design for a lifestyle you don’t actually live. The Big Purpose Categories (And What They Change) Most builds fall into one of a few broad categories. There’s some overlap, but the differences matter. Full-Time Living If you’ll be living in the van full-time, comfort and capacity matter more than anything. These builds often benefit from: A fixed platform bed A real kitchen setup Enough power to run daily life without stress A heater, regardless of climate More storage than you think you need Full-time builds tend to push battery capacity higher. People often underestimate how much power they’ll actually use once they’re living in the space every day. Weekend Campground Use If you’re mostly traveling on weekends and staying at campgrounds, the requirements are different. You can rely more on shore power. You don’t need massive water storage. You might not need a full bathroom. This is where people often overbuild. If you’re plugging in most nights, you don’t need to carry the same systems as someone living off-grid for weeks – or even days – at a time. Adventure and Gear-Focused Builds If your vanlife will be about bikes, skis, boards, or work gear, that needs to be part of the purpose from the beginning. That usually means: Designing adventure storage first, not last Thinking about modular furniture Making sure gear can live inside securely Accepting tradeoffs in living space I’ve built plenty of vans where the layout could change depending on whether bikes were loaded or not. That flexibility only works if you plan for it early. Cold Weather and Four-Season Travel If you’re traveling in cold climates, purpose matters even more. Cold weather affects: Plumbing placement Heating requirements Insulation decisions Battery capacity People often think they’ll “just avoid cold weather.” In reality, nights get cold even in places like Arizona. A heater ends up being one of the most universally useful systems you can install. Real Life Changes the Plan (And That’s Normal) Something I tell people often is that your purpose will probably evolve. Someone who starts as a weekend traveler might decide to go full-time later. Someone who stays in campgrounds might start boondocking more. Someone who never thought they’d travel in winter ends up chasing snow. Because of that, I like to think in terms of a 70/30 approach. Build about 70 percent for how you know you’ll use the van, and leave 30 percent of flexibility for the future. That doesn’t mean overbuilding everything. It means future-proofing where it matters – wiring paths, access panels, structural mounting points – so changes later don’t require tearing the van apart. Common Purpose Mistakes I See After seeing hundreds of builds, a few mistakes come up repeatedly. Designing for Social Media Instead of Daily Life Clean layouts look great in photos. But real life involves cooking, sleeping, changing clothes, and storing gear. The best layouts fit habits, not hashtags. Overestimating How Much Happens Inside Most people don’t spend all day inside their van. They cook outside. They hang out outside. The interior should support daily routines, not pretend it’s a living room. Locking in Layout Too Early People sometimes finalize layouts before they’ve clarified how they’ll actually use the van. Once cabinets go in, changes get expensive and time-consuming. Purpose should drive layout – not the other way around. The One Thing I Recommend Almost Everyone Do If you take only one piece of advice from this, it’s this: Use a van before you build one. Rent one. Borrow one. Spend a day at a van show walking through different layouts. Lie on the beds. Pretend to cook. Move around like it’s yours. I’ve watched people completely change their plans after a single weekend. That’s not failure – that’s information.  Here is a link to an outstanding van festival partner of ours, where you can go see 100s of vans in a single day. There are many others like it - find one that works for you and go check it out.  Defining Your Purpose in Simple Terms You don’t need a long document. You just need clarity. Try writing one sentence: “I’m building a van for [number of] people, used mostly for [1-2 activities & duration], in [primary] climates, typically staying in [type of environment].” Here are a few potential examples:  I’m building a van for 2 people, used mostly for weekend getaways, in warmer climates, typically staying in campgrounds near beaches.  I’m building a van for 2-4 people, used mostly for weeklong mountain climbing trips, in cool to cold climates, typically staying in remote areas.  If you can’t fill in this sentence confidently, you’re not ready to design the build yet. Once you can, everything else gets easier. Why This Step Saves Time and Money When purpose is clear: Layout decisions make sense System sizing becomes obvious You avoid redoing work later The build process feels calmer When the purpose is vague, every decision feels heavy. You second-guess everything. You chase edge cases you’ll never actually encounter. Clarity early makes the entire build smoother. What Comes Next Once you’ve defined your purpose, the next step is turning that into a layout that supports daily life. That’s where decisions like bed style, kitchen placement, and storage start to matter. That’s what I’ll cover next.     Frequently Asked Questions About Planning a Camper Van Build What does “start with purpose” mean when building a camper van? Starting with purpose means clearly defining how you will actually use the van before making design or purchasing decisions. That includes how often you’ll travel, where you’ll camp, how many people will sleep inside, and whether you’ll rely on hookups or live off-grid (and for how long). Those answers should guide every major decision that follows. Why is purpose more important than camper van layout or gear? Layout and gear choices only make sense once you understand your purpose. Without that clarity, it’s easy to build a van that looks good but doesn’t work well day to day. Purpose keeps you from overbuilding, overspending, or designing for situations that rarely happen. How do I figure out my camper van’s purpose if I’m new to vanlife? The fastest way is to experience vanlife firsthand. Renting or borrowing a van for a weekend often teaches more than months of planning. Pay attention to what you actually use, what you don’t, and what feels inconvenient — those insights should shape your build. Should I design my van for full-time living or weekend trips? That depends entirely on how you plan to use it. A full-time van usually needs more robust systems, storage, and comfort features. A weekend or part-time van can stay simpler and more flexible. Trying to build one van to do everything often leads to compromises that don’t fully satisfy either use case. What’s the most common mistake people make when planning a van build? Designing for an imagined lifestyle instead of real habits. Many people plan for entertaining, elaborate cooking, or perfect conditions that rarely happen. Starting with purpose helps avoid building features that look good on paper but don’t add value in daily use. Can my van’s purpose change over time? Yes, and it often does. That’s why starting with a clear initial purpose — and designing with some flexibility — matters. A well-planned van can adapt as travel styles, work situations, or priorities change. For example, I strongly recommend that you build your electrical system so that it can accommodate future expansion (e.g., more batteries, bigger cables). That’s why I’ve always installed extra wires in my van builds because I want them to be upgradable, either for the current or a future owner.  Do I need to have every detail figured out before I start building? No. You don’t need every detail finalized, but you do need a clear direction. Knowing your primary use case helps you make better decisions as questions come up during the build, even if some details evolve along the way. Building in flexibility also gives you time to change your mind, either now or in the future.  How does starting with purpose save time and money? Purpose prevents unnecessary complexity. When you know how the van will be used, you’re less likely to buy gear you don’t need, redesign layouts mid-build, or undo work later. Clear intent leads to fewer mistakes and a smoother build process. That’s why I strongly recommend renting or borrowing a van at least a few times before building one — so you actually know what you want. 

How to Build a Camper Van (Without Getting Stuck)

By Clayton Houser – Professional van builder (50+ full builds) Clayton Houser has built 50+ full vans and worked on 100+ builds. This overview shares the build philosophy he’s trusted across real vans – what to prioritize first, what to simplify, and how to plan a van that works in real life. If you’re new to van builds, the internet can make this feel impossible. There are too many options, too many opinions, and too many build photos that look great but do not tell you how they actually live day to day. I’ve built a lot of vans professionally, and I’ve seen the same pattern over and over. When people start in the wrong place, they end up rebuilding things later (layouts, systems, even entire interiors). When they start in the right place, everything downstream gets easier. This post is a step-by-step overview of how to build a camper van the way I’ve approached it. It’s meant to reduce overwhelm by giving you the right order, the right questions, and the right priorities. Each step links to a deeper post in this series so you can go as deep as you need without losing the thread, or you can view the series homepage here. Quick Series Map  How to Build a Camper Van (Without Getting Stuck)  The first article below is a higher-level overview of how I approach building a van. This is my process in a nutshell.  Start With Purpose: Build the Van You’ll Actually UseThe practical questions that prevent regret later, plus why I recommend renting/seeing vans in person before locking in plans. Choosing the Right Base Van: Start With How You’ll Actually Use ItHow to choose a platform based on real constraints (height, length, weight, service reality) instead of hype or aesthetics. Layout Design: Start With the Bed and Build Everything Else Around ItWhy I start with sleep and bed height, then make shower/bathroom decisions next, before committing to anything else in the layout. Insulation & Ventilation: Start With the Floor and Plan for Real ComfortA floor-first approach to comfort and noise, plus wall insulation preferences and airflow planning before everything gets closed up. Designing the Garage: Storage, Systems, and Real-World TradeoffsHow to treat the garage as the mechanical room (not just storage), and how bed height, access, and modularity shape long-term usability. Electrical Planning Without the Fear: How to Think About Power in Your Van BuildA calm way to size power based on daily use and travel style, while leaving room for upgrades without tearing the van apart later. Plumbing for Real Life: Showers, Hot Water, and Fast DrainsMy shower-first plumbing priorities – fast drains, tank sizing, hot water choices, and building so leaks and changes stay manageable. Designing for Serviceability: Access, Simplicity, and Future ChangesHow to keep systems reachable and understandable, avoid burying components, and design for the reality that every van evolves. Materials, Weight, and Build Strategy: Why Lighter and Simpler Usually WinsWhere weight and noise really come from, why overbuilding backfires, and how restraint keeps a van quieter, lighter, and easier to change. Common Van Build Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them Before They Get Expensive)The biggest regrets that I’ve seen – like locking in too early, building for imagined use, burying systems, and chasing perfection. Finish the Van, Then Let Experience Do the TeachingWhy “finished enough to use” beats perfect, and how real trips quickly reveal what actually matters (and what doesn’t). My build philosophy in one sentence Build for real use, in the right order, with restraint, and keep systems accessible so the van can evolve. That sentence is simple, but it has saved people a lot of money and frustration. Most regret I’ve seen has not come from choosing the “wrong” brand or the “wrong” product. It has come from locking decisions in too early, overbuilding out of caution, and burying systems so deeply that small issues turn into major tear-outs later. If you only take one thing from this pillar post, take the order of steps. The order is the key.  Step 1 – Start with purpose (before tools, layouts, or shopping) Most people think they know what they want until they actually use a van. The first step in how to build a camper van is not picking a van, picking a layout, or picking parts. It’s answering a few practical questions about how you will actually use it. These are the questions I always come back to:  Will this be used full-time or mostly on weekends? Will you be staying in campgrounds or boondocking? What climates will you be traveling in? How many people will be riding and sleeping? What gear will need to live or travel inside the van? The best way to answer these questions is to actually spend time camping in vans. Your answers are critical and need to be accurate because they will drive everything else (layout, power, water, insulation, storage, etc.). If you don’t know the answers or are wrong about them, you can end up designing for a lifestyle you will not actually live.  Here are a few other resources to help you think through your vanlife purpose:  Vanlife Roadmap Podcast: Each episode explores new ways to vanlife with DIYers, pro builders, experts, etc.  Why I Love Vanlife - How it's the Best Way to Travel  How to Begin Your Vanlife Journey Sooner...What Are You Waiting For?  I've Built Over 15 Vans...Here's What I've Learned  A Life of Vanlife - My Journey  Step 2 – Choose the right base van by focusing on dimensions and constraints People often ask “Which van is best” and I don’t think that is the right question. There is no single best van. There are tradeoffs, and those tradeoffs matter differently depending on how you plan to use the van. A few factors have mattered more than almost anything else in the builds I’ve seen. Roof height Body length  If you are spending time inside the van, especially living full-time, standing height can matter a lot. Bending over every day adds friction you don’t notice at first but feel later. Body length affects the layout, how much separation you can have between living zones, and how easy the van is to park and maneuver. Longer vans give more flexibility inside. Shorter vans are easier to drive and park. Neither is better – they just serve different priorities. Weight is also a constraint you cannot ignore. Batteries, water, cabinetry, appliances, and gear add up faster than people expect. If weight is not considered early, the result can be poor handling, sagging suspension, increased wear on components, and a van that feels unstable on the road. Serviceability is part of the build too. Where and how the van will be serviced matters more once people travel regularly. If the van is your home, downtime is not just inconvenient. Here are links to van details for the most popular models:  Ford Transit  Ram Promaster  Mercedes Sprinter  Step 3 – Design the layout by starting with the bed When people struggle with layout, it is usually because they start with the wrong anchor. I start with one question. How do you want to sleep every night – in your van, not just on paper? Early on, I built vans with convertible bed setups that looked great in photos. In real life, though, setting up a bed every night can mean rearranging cushions, clearing surfaces, and rebuilding the same thing over and over. After doing that for a few nights, I quickly stopped recommending it. Almost every van I’ve built since has used a fixed platform bed. Once you commit to a bed style, bed height becomes the next critical decision. Bed height determines what you can store underneath, whether bikes fit inside, where tanks and batteries can live, and whether you are going to hit your head every morning when you sit up. I also recommend doing the headroom math early. People focus on the bed platform and forget the floor stack-up. Small changes in floor thickness can affect how the van feels every day, especially if you are tall or want to sit up comfortably in bed. Step 4 – Plan insulation and ventilation before you close things up  Once the layout is clear, I like to lock in the floor and the shell because it affects comfort, noise, and how easy the rest of the build is. The floor is one of the easiest places to accidentally overbuild, and small changes in thickness can affect headroom and how the van feels every day. I start with the floor, then make wall insulation decisions, and I think ahead about airflow before everything gets closed up. Floor stack-up and thickness (comfort, noise, headroom) Wall insulation choices (clean install, future changes) Airflow planning before you close things up  Here is a video from Vanlife Outfitters on how to think about two main insulation options.  Step 5 – Design the garage as the home for both storage and systems A lot of new builders think of the garage as storage only. Don’t forget it’s also the mechanical room. Under the bed is where people typically house electrical systems on one side, plumbing and tanks on the other, and gear, tools, or bikes in the remaining space. The garage is where weight, access, airflow, and mounting realities show up. One of the biggest tradeoffs is this. Bed height and garage height are the same decision. I also treat the subfloor as a structural decision, not a finish detail, because the garage tends to carry the heaviest loads in the whole van. Water, batteries, tools, heaters, tanks, drawers, cabinets, recovery gear, all of it. Even if items mount to walls or framing, the floor still plays a role in stability. Step 6 – Plan electrical by starting with real usage, not edge cases Electrical has intimidated a lot of first-time builders. I’ve seen people jump straight into diagrams, buy components early, and then realize there was not a good place to put them, or the layout forced compromises they did not plan for. Electrical sizing is downstream from purpose. The questions about batteries, solar, inverters, chargers, and wiring only make sense after you answer what you are actually trying to power. When people describe electrical needs, they often list everything they might want to do someday. Sometimes those needs are real. Often they are not. What has mattered more is what happens every day, like phones and laptops, lights, fans, refrigeration, and basic accessories. How you travel also consistently shapes the system. People who drive frequently have different needs than people who park for long stretches. Campgrounds versus boondocking matters. Shore power reduces stress on a system. Off-grid living increases it. Bigger is not always better. Larger systems bring more weight, more cost, more complexity, and more points of failure. The goal is not the biggest system you can afford. It is one you do not think about every day. Here is a guide for sizing your electrical system.  Step 7 – Build plumbing for real use (and make drains fast) Plumbing decisions get a lot simpler once you answer one question: shower or sink-only. That one choice drives tank sizing, hot water needs, and how complex the system needs to be. I care a lot about drains because slow drains and standing water make a van feel worse to live in than people expect. I also design plumbing so it stays serviceable because leaks and changes are part of real use. Shower vs sink-only (drives tank and hot water needs) Drain sizing and drain speed (daily usability) Plumbing that can be serviced later (access and fittings) Step 8 – Design for serviceability so the van can evolve  Most builders do not regret adding a system. They regret burying it.  Reality is messy. Vans vibrate. Fittings loosen. Pumps need attention. You will want to change things as you learn what you actually value. If you have to remove half the van to access a pump or an electrical connection, something went wrong in the design. I favor layouts that keep systems grouped, visible, and reachable so troubleshooting and upgrades stay manageable.  Keep systems reachable (pumps, valves, electrical connections) Group related components (so troubleshooting is logical) Leave room for future changes (so upgrades don’t require teardown) Step 9 – Choose materials and build strategy with restraint Weight adds up faster than people expect, and overbuilding can feel “safe” right up until the moment it creates a problem. I have seen weight and complexity come from the same places over and over. Overbuilt furniture, unnecessary materials, overly rigid assemblies, and choices that make access harder later. Noise can also be a build problem, not a van problem. A practical example is the floor. The floor affects comfort and noise more than people expect, and it is easy to overbuild because it feels structural. A simple approach has often been enough. A small amount of sound deadening on large flat metal panels, a vehicle-friendly insulation layer for a thermal break and some acoustic absorption, a solid subfloor (I like ⅝ inch plywood), and then the finished surface. The point is to keep the stack-up thin, functional, and serviceable. Simpler builds are also easier to change. That flexibility becomes more valuable the longer you own the van. Step 10 – Avoid the mistakes that make people stall or redo work If you want a shortcut in learning how to build a camper van, learn from the mistakes I have seen repeatedly. The big ones have looked like this. Locking in decisions too early Designing for imagined use instead of real use Overbuilding out of caution Burying systems and losing access Treating systems as separate projects Chasing perfection instead of finishing the van Order has mattered more than any single decision. When builders let decisions happen in the right sequence, integrate systems into the layout, keep access, and build with restraint, they avoid most of the expensive regret. Here is a list of the most common van build questions we get.  Step 11 – Finish the van, then let experience do the teaching Finishing often feels harder than starting. Planning builds confidence. Experience confirms it. A finished van does not mean a final van. Using the van is part of the build process. I have seen people learn more in a couple of days of real use than weeks of planning. Once you start using the van, decisions get simpler because you are no longer guessing. The Simple Build Approach I’ve Relied On If you are overwhelmed, return to this. Start with purpose  Van choice acknowledging trade-offs  Layout anchored by the bed and headroom math Insulation and ventilation planning (floor first, don’t close yourself in) Garage designed as storage plus systems Electrical planned from real daily usage (leave room to grow) Plumbing sized for real use (fast drains, practical tanks, hot water) Serviceability applied to everything (access, grouping, future changes) Materials and build strategy chosen with restraint (weight, noise, flexibility) Avoid common mistakes by respecting order Finish enough to use – then let experience refine the rest That is the framework. If you want details, the links above are the deeper dives.  It’s also not the only way to approach a van build, although it has worked great for me. If you’re looking to dive even deeper into the subject of van build processes, you can also check out this article from one of the founders of Vanlife Outfitters.  And, as always, if you get stuck or want to talk through this with a real vanlife expert, feel free to reach out:  Email: Support@VanlifeOutfitters.com Phone: 754-444-8704  What I Want You to Feel After Reading This Series  What I want you to feel after reading this is not that you’ve solved everything – it’s that you’ve got a clear next step. If you start with purpose and stay honest about how you will actually use the van, the build becomes far more manageable. The van stops being an abstract dream and becomes a practical project with a real order. Head over to Blog #2. Then move forward one step at a time. Happy building – and more importantly, start using the van as soon as you can! 

Pro Builder Tips for a Better DIY Van Build

DIY van builds are one of the most rewarding projects you can take on. They can also get expensive and frustrating when you discover (too late) that a key decision should have been made earlier. Vanlife Outfitters exists to help DIYers build with confidence. We do that by sharing practical education, helping you find parts that work well together, and learning directly from experienced builders who see the same challenges over and over. To support that mission, we asked eight professional van builders to share the single most important thing they wish first-time DIY builders understood before starting a build or major install. This post distills their advice into an actionable guide and highlights the builders who contributed (as collaborators, not endorsements). The builders who contributed Charles Nolt – Runny Yolk Designs Stuart Grulke – Groove Vans John Hayward – Whitewater Vans Jay Lamphier – Mountain Coast Vans Justin vanBlaricom – Noke Van Co. Vanessa Plante – Bear Claw Custom Vans Jake Bachowski – Our Van Quest Troy Norton – Nanavans Additional resources to help with your van build  The 10 Most Common Camper Van Build Questions (and the One That Really Matters) 10+ Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Camper Van Builder How to Find the Right Camper Van Builder (Without Losing Your Shirt or Your Sanity) I've Built Over 15 Vans...Here's What I've Learned  Now for advice from 8 professional builders  1) Start with how you’ll actually use the van Jake (Our Van Quest) recommends stepping back before any major install and getting specific about your use case. Weekend trips, adventure travel, kids’ tournaments – each one pushes you toward different system decisions. His point is simple: define the use and limitations first, then design your systems around that (electrical, plumbing, suspension, wheels and tires). Do this now Write a one-sentence “mission statement” for your van (what you’ll use it for most). List your constraints (season, climate, off-grid time, number of people). Review every major system choice and ask if it supports that mission. 2) Try a layout before you commit to building it Stuart (Groove Vans) shares a practical rule: try before you buy. There are countless layouts and options, and it can take one or two attempts to learn what you truly prefer. His recommendation is to test different floor plans in real life before you commit. Do this now Identify your top 2–3 layout options. If possible, rent, borrow, or test a similar layout on a trip. Document what felt great and what became annoying fast. 3) Draw it to scale (then account for what you forgot) Jay (Mountain Coast Vans) focuses on space planning and realism. Vans are tight, even the “big” ones. He urges DIY builders to draw the plan to scale and factor in what quietly steals space: plywood thickness, framing members, and wire runs. The upfront effort can save you from building yourself into a corner later. Do this now Create a scaled drawing of your layout (Jay says to do it thrice!). Add the thickness and routing reality (materials, framing, wiring paths). Redraw until everything actually fits and remains serviceable. 4) Plan electrical for today and for future upgrades Vanessa (Bear Claw Custom Vans) recommends calculating current and future electrical demands before you choose your approach. That planning helps you decide whether an all-in-one power box is enough or whether you need a full custom electrical system. Her warning is based on what she sees in the field: DIYers who want to add a heater later, only to find their system can’t support it without expensive rework. Do this now List the devices you’ll run now. Add a second list of future upgrades you might want later. Choose an electrical approach that supports both lists without major rebuilds. 5) Don’t skimp on materials and components if you want it to last Stuart’s next point is blunt: great plans fail when materials and components are cheap. If you build the best floor plan imaginable but cut corners on materials, electronics, or components, durability suffers. Do this now Identify the components that will be hardest (and costliest) to redo later. Prioritize quality there first, even if you compromise elsewhere temporarily. Research before buying so you’re not replacing parts twice. 6) Avoid MDF and particleboard in a van environment Justin (Noke Van Co.) gets specific on one common mistake. He advises DIYers not to use MDF or pressed wood for cabinets and framing because highway driving creates constant vibration. Over time, screws can loosen and cabinetry can fail. He shares that his shop uses lightweight plywood alternatives (and notes there are multiple options) because they’re structurally strong while helping reduce weight. Do this now Review your cabinet and framing material plan. Choose a material that holds fasteners well under vibration. Build for durability first, cosmetics second. 7) Build skills and confidence before you build the van Troy (Nanavans) encourages first-time DIY builders to focus on the techniques required to make the build happen, not only the final vision. If you’re buying tools for the first time (or borrowing them), he recommends practicing on a small project first (even a small project like a birdhouse) so you understand what you’re doing before the van becomes the practice piece. Do this now Pick a small “practice build” that uses the same tools and techniques. Track your real time and learning curve. Set expectations for the van build based on what you experienced. 8) Prep and organization reduce frustration (and improve the end result) Charles (Runny Yolk Designs) highlights something that separates smooth builds from miserable ones: preparation. He believes DIYers are capable of great quality work, and suggests setting yourself up for success by thinking through the job ahead, staging your tools and fasteners, and reducing the “constant searching” that creates frustration. He even shares a simple tactic from his shop – using a sheet pan as a portable bin for your tools and parts while you work. He also adds a mindset reminder that matters: it’s your build. Perfection is not the only path to a space you love. Stuart echoes the organization angle from a planning standpoint: spreadsheets help manage the number of parts and pieces, and help keep your budget under control. Do this now Keep a parts list and a simple budget tracker (a spreadsheet is enough). Stage the tools and fasteners you’ll need before you start the task. Reduce friction wherever possible so the build stays fun and sustainable. Watch the builders share this advice If you want to hear each builder deliver their tip directly, we also put together a short compilation video featuring all eight builders: LINK  Frequently Asked Questions   What’s the first decision I should make before starting a DIY van build? Start with the use of the van and your limitations, then design the systems around that (Jake, Our Van Quest). Should I test a layout before committing to a build plan? Yes. Stuart (Groove Vans) recommends trying different floor plans and options before you commit. Why do builders insist on drawing layouts to scale? Jay (Mountain Coast Vans) makes the point that space disappears fast once you account for real-world thickness and routing (plywood thickness, framing members, wire runs). Drawing to scale helps you avoid optimism that becomes a problem later. What’s the biggest electrical mistake DIY builders make early on? Vanessa (Bear Claw Custom Vans) recommends calculating current and future electrical demands up front so you don’t end up limited a year later when you want to add something new (like a heater). What material should I avoid for cabinets in a van? Justin (Noke Van Co) recommends not using MDF or pressed wood because vibration can loosen screws over time and cause failures. How do I keep a long DIY build from turning into frustration? Charles (Runny Yolk Designs) suggests prepping your tools and parts before tasks so you’re not constantly searching, and Stuart (Groove Vans) recommends staying organized with simple spreadsheets for parts and budget. I’m not a professional – can I still do quality work? Charles (Runny Yolk Designs) believes you are capable of great quality work, and frames the difference as repetition and experience. Troy (Nanavans) adds that practice projects help you build confidence before tackling major installs. What’s one mindset shift that helps DIY builders finish? John (Whitewater Vans) emphasizes that the process can be time-consuming and full of surprises, and that using existing builder experience and tools can help you streamline decisions and push through roadblocks.  

The 10 Most Common Camper Van Build Questions (and the One That Really Matters)

Hey there, Mike here. I’ve been at Vanlife Outfitters for a few years now, helping folks with tech support, orders, and customer service. In that time, I’ve learned one thing for sure: New vanlifers almost always start with the same handful of questions. Let’s be honest, most of us don’t read the manuals. I get it! Van builds can be super technical, and sometimes it’s easier to just call a human and get a straight answer. People want reassurance from someone who’s been there — and that’s where I come in. I’m a real vanlifer who can help you figure things out. So, here are the 10 questions I hear almost every single day… plus the one question that actually matters most. 1. “Do you sell ?” Short answer: If it’s on our website, yes. If we don’t carry the exact thing you’re asking about, I’ll point you to a solid alternative that’ll get the job done. Our store only includes products we would put in our vans 2. I want a camper van electrical system. What do I need? How much will it cost?” This is the million-dollar (okay, maybe multi-thousand-dollar) question. The first step is figuring out what you want to power — lights and a fan? Or an induction cooktop, big fridge, and rooftop A/C? The next step is sizing your battery bank, then adding the right charging sources (solar, alternator, shore power). Think of it like building a puzzle — all the pieces need to fit. The cost varies a lot, but starting with a load calculation will save you from overbuying or, worse, under-building. “Sizing Your Electrical Systems & Load Calculation” 3. “How much solar do I need for my van?” Solar is the most romantic part of a van build to me — those panels on the roof feel like free energy. But here’s the deal: Solar should recharge your batteries, not be your only power source. If you’re parked in cloudy Oregon for a week, solar alone ain’t gonna cut it. Most folks need a combo including solar + alternator charging (when you drive) + shore power (when you plug in). A balanced system means you’re never left sweating in the dark. “How to Choose Solar Panels for Your Camper Van” 4. “How many batteries do I need to run a rooftop A/C?” The rule of thumb I recommend is to include at least a 400Ah lithium battery bank. But the real answer depends on your van: Which A/C unit you’ve got, how often you’ll run it, and how you’ll recharge. Also consider your travel style. Cruising through Arizona in July? You’ll use way more juice than someone camping in the Pacific Northwest. Batteries are heavy and expensive, so right-sizing matters. “Sizing Your Electrical Systems & Load Calculation” 5. “What size water tank should I get for my camper van?” Start with how often you’ll refill and what you’ll use water for — sink, shower, cooking, drinking. Here’s the tip most people miss: Water adds weight. A 30-gallon tank weighs about 250 pounds when full. That affects handling, braking, and even fuel economy. Many weekend warriors do great with 10–20 gallons, while full-timers often go 30–40. 6. “What size fridge do I need for my van?” This isn’t just about cubic feet. It’s about lifestyle. My response to this question is usually, “Well, how much do you eat??” A couple who eats out a lot may only need a small 12V fridge. A family of four on the road will want something much bigger. Also, think about energy use. Bigger fridges pull more power, so your electrical system has to keep up. Plan your fridge in tandem with your battery bank, not after. Our favorite van refrigerators 7. “Do I need a shower and toilet in my van?” Ah, the classic vanlife debate. Showers and toilets eat up space and add complexity. But for some folks, they’re non-negotiable. There are middle-ground solutions. Portable showers, gym memberships, campground facilities, composting or cassette toilets. You don’t have to commit to a full bathroom if it doesn’t fit your build. Most importantly, you should rent or borrow a few vans to try out for a week or two and see for yourself what works best for you. If you do want a toilet, here are some we can recommend 8. “Why does this cost so much?” Because you’re basically building a tiny, off-grid house on wheels. Quality components — lithium batteries, efficient fridges, solid plumbing — aren’t cheap. But here’s the upside: Good gear pays off. Lithium batteries last 10+ years, solar panels can crank for decades, and quality plumbing means fewer leaks. Cut corners and you’ll end up redoing work (and spending more) down the road. 9. “Where should I put my rooftop A/C?” Comfort is king here. I don’t like cold air blasting on me while I sleep, so I put my A/C mid-van with a fan over the bed. Where will you want that chilled A/C air blowing? Also think about balance. Heavy rooftop units affect your van’s weight distribution and center of gravity. Placing it too far forward or backward can make a difference in how the van drives. Our favorite air conditioning units 10. “Can you just put together everything I need and send me a list?” I can, but only after we’ve talked through all the above. Otherwise, you’ll end up with a list that doesn’t match your actual travel style. That said, once we know your needs, we can build you a parts list or kit that’ll save hours of shopping and second-guessing. It’s about matching your van to your life. Reach out, and we can work through it with you: support@vanlifeoutfitters.com The Real Question: “How Do You Plan to Use Your Van?” All those questions above? They boil down to this: How are you going to use the van? Are you a weekend warrior hitting campgrounds with hookups? Planning to boondock off-grid for days at a time? Driving cross-country or parking in one spot for weeks? Will you be traveling with others? Your answer shapes everything — your electrical system, solar, water setup, even whether a shower makes sense. Asking yourself this question is just as important as asking me. And I highly recommend spending as much time camping in other vans so you can figure out what you will want in yours. Final Thoughts You’re not alone — everyone starts with these questions. My best advice? Don’t rush. Do the research, ask questions, and really think about how you want to live in your van. The more you figure out now, the smoother (and more fun) your adventures will be later. And when you’re ready, Vanlife Outfitters has road-tested gear, helpful guides, and real humans (like me) to get you rolling. Happy vannin’, Mike

Getting The Most Out Of Your Camper Van Air Conditioner

HELP Your Air Conditioner help YOU! In this video, we discuss camper van air conditioners and how to make sure you’re using them properly. We’ve sold A LOT of air conditioners and we even have them in our vans too, so we know a thing or two about cooling down a camper van! We’ve seen people make a lot of mistakes when running their air conditioners, so we thought it might be a good idea to make a video sharing the tips and tricks we use to get our air conditioners to cool our van effectively and efficiently. Air Conditioner Comparison Matrix A few of our favorite Air Conditioners: Mabru RV12000 (12v) Mabru RV12000 (Installation Blog) Dometic RTX2000 (12v) Check Out All Of Our Air Conditioners

How to Choose the Right Roof Rack for Your Camper Van

Interior Shower or No Interior Shower?  An Experienced Vanlifer's Opinion

I've Built Over 15 Vans...Here's What I've Learned

I've Built Over 15 Vans…Here's What I've Learned: Video Presentation ** READ THIS BEFORE YOU DESIGN YOUR CAMPER VAN ** This blog post contains everything I changed or would have changed after 3 years on the road in my first van. If you would like to view this post as a video presentation please see the video above. One of the most difficult parts of a van build is figuring out the right floor plan and fitting everything you want into that floorplan. A big mistake a lot of people make is thinking they can fit everything they have in their house or apartment into a camper van. There are going to be some sacrifices and things you’re going to need to go without. The problem is, if you haven’t ever lived in a van, how do you know what you’re going to REALLY need and what you can do without. There are going to be things you thought you needed that you actually don’t and there are going to be things that you didn’t even realize you needed. You can do dozens of hours of research and you can go down the Youtube rabbit hole, but everyone’s needs are different and you’re not going to be able to know what’s best for you until you actually live in a van for at least a year. I’ve lived in a van full time for three years and another two years part-time. I’ve participated in over 15 van builds and I own a company that specializes in the best vanlife products for DIY van builders. I consider myself an expert in camper van design and floor planning and I enjoy the challenge of maximizing the functionality of tiny spaces. In this blog post I simply want to share my experiences and thought process to give you food for thought so that you can take whatever nuggets that resonate with you and incorporate them into your van build. Full disclaimer: Not everyone is the same! Some people want a cook’s kitchen and some people barely cook at all. Some people want a luxurious bathroom and some people are happy showering outside, at the gym or a campground. After living in a van for five years here are some of the things that I want you to think about. Toilet The majority of people choose to do a composting toilet and that’s what I did on my first van. While I was happy with the toilet, I actually never (not a single time) went #2 in that toilet. I went #1 in it all the time, but honestly I could have just as easily just used a pee bottle. The urine tank on a composting toilet is annoying to empty every couple of days and spending over $1,000 on a glorified pee bottle felt like a waste of money to me. Sure it was nice to have the toilet for #2 in case of emergency, but I found myself using public bathrooms all the time (gym, campground, gas station, hotel lobby, grocery store, mother nature). For me the solution I came up with for my second van build was a cabinet with a toilet seat on top and inside the cabinet was a bucket and a urine diverter. The bucket was lined with a trash bag (for emergencies only) and it doubled as my cleaning supply storage since I never used the bucket. The urine diverter was routed into an 8 gallon blackwater holding tank under the van. I only needed to empty the tank every few weeks and it was as simple as finding a dump station and flipping a switch. Doing my toilet this way saved me about $900 and was way better for my needs because it provided an emergency #2 solution and eliminated the disgusting chore of emptying the urine tank on the composting toilet. Alert: I understand this option might sound ludicrous to some people and you might be saying to yourself “Hell NO” and that’s ok. This is what worked best for me and my preferences. Shower Showers are one of the hottest topics in the van build debate. Some people won’t do vanlife without them. People like me are perfectly happy taking an outdoor shower or showering at campgrounds, national gym chains like Planet Fitness or Anytime Fitness, truck stops, rec centers, the beach, friends houses, etc. The argument for a shower in your van is obvious. It’s easy, convenient and luxurious to have a shower in your van. You can literally shower whenever and wherever you want. A shower in your van also usually means a private place for your toilet which is an obvious added benefit. The argument against a shower is that they are limiting to the floorplan and visually make the van feel tight and cramped. Another drawback is that they use a ton of water which makes having to refill and dump your water more of a frequent occurrence. One thing I decided on my next build is to do a convertible shower, like this one, for those times when it’s too cold outside, or I’m too tired to go to the gym or an available shower is just too far away to bother. My plan is to shower outside, at the gym or at campgrounds whenever possible, but for that 20% of the time when those types of showers aren’t available I’ll have an indoor shower available to me. I’ll be combining the shower with this greywater tank, but more on that below. Shoe cabinet Many people don’t account for shoe storage on a van build and to me it is one of the most important things to think about when designing your van. In a house, you are usually walking over a lot of grass or concrete before you get to your front door, so your shoes are relatively clean by that point. In a van, you’re going to be doing a lot of outdoor activities and are usually walking over dirt, sand or mud (like at a trailhead) just before you step inside your van. The last thing you want to do is track all that stuff into your tiny sanctuary. The solution I incorporated into my second build was a rubber lined shoe drawer near my front door. I could sit in the doorway and take off my shoes and not worry about tracking all that nasty stuff in the van. In my first van I didn’t do that and I ended up having to stuff dirty hiking boots under my driver’s seat and in other places they didn’t belong. By just having a dedicated shoe drawer near your door, you will save yourself a lot of time cleaning and a lot of stress of figuring out where to put your dirty shoes. Charging drawer This one is all about reminding you that your home on wheels is always moving. If you have a lot of devices that need to be charged then you can’t just leave them on the counter like you would in a house. There have been many (too many to count) times, especially when I was a vanlife rookie, that I forgot to put something away upon taking off on an adventure. As soon as I turned a corner, everything I left on the counter went flying. Cleaning up the ensuing mess is never fun and paying to replace damaged electronics is even less fun. The solution I came up with for this is a dedicated foam-lined charging drawer. Inside the drawer is a 12v and 110v outlet. You can charge your GoPro, Garmin, cell phone, DSLR batteries, Drone, portable charger, laptop, etc without ever having to worry. I also installed a locking latch on this drawer to make it extra difficult for would-be thieves to steal my goodies. Fridge at Eye Level I don’t like to think of myself as an old man, but bending over or squatting everytime I needed to get something out of the fridge or put away groceries had my lower back begging for mercy. After 3+ years of an undercounter fridge, I decided enough was enough. If you can work an eye level fridge into your floorplan I highly recommend it. It will make your life a whole lot easier and it provides the familiarity of a house refrigerator. You can get an undercounter fridge and mount it on top of a cabinet or you can get a tall fridge. Either way you’re going to love not having to bend over everytime you want a beer. **Also, I recommend getting a fridge with a decent size freezer like these. I like to boondock and having a large freezer means you have a way of keeping food fresher longer. Throw all bin/cabinet I planned and planned my first floor plan and believed I had thought of everything. I thought wrong. Even though I thought I had accounted for everything I forgot about my backpack. When you get back from a long hike you can’t just throw your backpack on the floor…it will be in the way. You can’t just throw your backpack on the ground, you’re going to want to sit down and relax after a long hike. The backpack is always in the way! My solution for this was to dedicate a cubby specifically for my backpack. You could also add a hook and hang it up, but my backpack is heavy and it would bang around when driving. I suppose I could hang it up and strap it down, but it’s much more convenient to throw it in a cubby/cabinet.. I suppose I could also put it in the garage after each hike, but there are supplies that I frequently want to get in my backpack. To make matters worse, if you’re like me, you might have two backpacks! One for hiking and one for the gym. I use the gym backpack for workout gear, shower supplies, a towel and change of clothes. Thankfully my cubby fits both backpacks. Mattress Don’t cheap out on your mattress. Living in a van can sometimes be uncomfortable. But that’s ok because you’re trading comfort for freedom. The one thing you should splurge on is a nice mattress so that you can have a little bit of luxury and wake up well-rested for your adventures. I like the look of the and functionality of a dinette bed combo, but to me it’s not practical for several reasons. First, you’re going to lose most of your garage storage in the dinette setup. Second, when I’m done with a long day of hiking or kayaking, the last thing I want to do is build my bed for the night. Third, if I’m driving a long haul and want to pull off for a nap, I just want to jump in bed as soon as possible. Last, you can’t convince me that seat cushions that double as a mattress are comfortable. They might be fine for a month, but after a few months, you just can’t beat a well made mattress. **Also I highly recommend installing your bed as low as reasonably possible. It’s nice to be able to sit up in bed and makes the area feel a lot less claustrophobic. Quick Hits: Bug Screens Bug screens are almost a must have. I didn’t have one in my first build and I definitely regretted not having one. I was limited to my tiny windows for ventilation and it would have been nice to open my sliding door in some situations. Fortunately, Vanlife Outfitters carries some really good looking bug screens that are fairly easy to install and customized for Sprinter, Transit or Promaster. Quick Hits: Hot sauce/spice rack If you cook a lot, it’s really nice to be able to access all your spices and sauces rather than digging into a cabinet multiple times. You can also use part of the rack for storing other items that you need frequently Quick Hits: Pull out trash and laundry Don’t forget that you’re going to produce trash and laundry. Make sure that you’ve designated a place in your build for those stinky items. I highly recommend lining it with cedar. I like to have a small trash can so it forces me to throw out the trash before it starts to smell. Quick Hits: Larger sink or dirty dishes drawer I like a larger deeper sink than most people would put in a camper van. You can wait a little longer to do the dishes, you can wash clothes in the sink. I’m willing to sacrifice a few extra inches on my countertop for a larger sink. But that’s just me, you do you. Quick Hits: Larger Freshwater and Greywater Tank One of the biggest pain-in-the-butts of vanlife is finding spots to fill freshwater and dump greywater. This can especially be problematic for boondockers or urban stealth vanlifers. My first van had 20 gallons and that was a lot in comparison to some other van builds, but when planning my van builds from scratch, I don’t do anything less than 40 gallons anymore. It’s really nice not having to fill freshwater as often. On the flipside, my greywater tank was 7 gallons, and finding a place to dump my greywater was also an issue. Dumping your greywater on grass or the street, even if you use biodegradable soaps and toothpaste, is somewhat of a “grey area” (pun intended) for many vanlifers. I personally like to dump my greywater at an official dumpstation whenever possible and I never dump on public lands. Having a larger grey water tank like this one from Vanlife Outfitters really cuts down on the amount of trips to the dump stations. Quick Hits: Fixed dinette It’s nice if you can incorporate a fixed dinette into your van build. Some floorplans won’t permit this but I really wanted to be able to sit down and work or eat without having to enter into a process to transform my seating area. Quick Hits: 12v Air Conditioner I had the “Two MaxxFan Method” in my first van and that was fine for travel out West, mostly at higher elevations. If you’re going to traveling in the south, don’t have a high tolerance for heat or if you have fur babies, then you’re going to probably want to get a 12v air conditioner like this one. The downside is that you’ll also probably need a larger battery bank. As our climate changes and things really start to heat up, 12v Air Conditioners are quickly becoming a non-negotiable for some vanlifers. Quick Hits: Insulated curtain or wall Most of the heat and cold are going to come into your van through your cockpit. It’s good to have a plan to Quick Hits: Garage Drawer System On my first van I had the black rubber bins from Home Depot to store all my gear. No matter how hard I tried to organize my bins, based on how frequently I needed the gear, the item I needed always seemed to be in the back of the garage on the bottom bin. That meant I needed to take out all the other bins to get to the bin I needed. On my second build I added a large 42” long double drawer on 250lb drawer slides. Getting things out was so much easier. I also really like having a cargo pull out tray which is rated for 800lbs. I’ll never have 800lbs on it but it’s really smooth when I have all my storage containers with tools and heavy equipment on it.   Vanlife Outfitters has been supporting DIY camper van builders since 2016. We have a large collection of blog posts, videos, tips, resources, information and products to help you on your journey into vanlife. If you got any useful information from our site please let us know and if you’re in the market for products to build out a van please consider supporting our store!

How To Insulate Your Camper Van

wI’ve probably put more thought into insulating my camper vans than is considered sane or healthy. I can’t exactly say why I choose to obsess over this more than almost any other part of the van build, but that’s another conversation between myself and my therapist. You might be asking: “Who are you and what makes your system so great?” Well I don’t consider myself an insulation expert and I don’t know if that title exists in vanlife. But I’ll tell you a little about my experience. Since getting into vanlife in 2017, I’ve built or been involved in the build of over 15 camper vans and I’ve seen countless other vans being built. I’ve also done dozens of hours of research, reading and YouTube rabbit-holing. I’ve personally seen wool, thinsulate, reflectix, EPS foam board, spray foam, rock wool, fiberglass, denim and every other type of insulation and insulation method or system in the universe. All of that research and observation has led me to the creation of a system that I use in my vans and recommend to any of my friends, family and vanlifers who are building their van. In this blog post I’m going to keep it as simple as possible. I won’t be going deep into the science and analytics behind my system because that blog post is far too long and boring. If you have any questions or want a more technical discussion please feel free to reach out to me via e-mail or attend my Camper Van Insulation Analytics Ted Talk at MIT this Summer (just kidding). What You’ll Need Of course, the specific quantities will depend on your van. Materials: ¾” EPS Foam Board ¾” Plywood ½” Plywood Marine Sealant Sound Deadener (80 Mil Preferred – Noico, Killmat, Etc.) Thinsulate SM600L (Automotive) 3M 90 Spray Adhesive Low-E Reflective Foam with Low-E Tape Rivnuts Wood Screws (1″ or dependent on your plywood choices) Tools: Heavy Duty Scissors Heavy Duty Caulking Gun Rivnut Installer Tool (Pneumatic/Hydraulic recommended) Drill Table Saw or Circular Saw Phase One: Sound Deadener (Noico or Killmat) I start by applying a sound deadener product like Killmat or Noico that volume to the sheet metal of your van which, in turn, reduces vibration that adds a lot of noise to an empty van. Some people choose to line their entire van with sound deadeners which in my opinion is an incredible waste of money and weight. In my experience, you only really need to cover 25% of each panel and I highly recommend you also cover the floor and wheel wells of the van completely as these especially are a high source of noise. Sound deadener is easy to use, just cut to size, peel the back, stick in on the sheetmetal and press or roll in on. Phase Two: Insulation (Thinsulate SM600L) I have an entire blog post on why I like Thinsulate over wool. It’s a superior product to everything else on the market. I apply Thinsulate to the skin of the van over sound deadener with 3M 90 spray adhesive (spray the wall and the white side of the Thinsulate, wait 10 seconds, then stick the white side of the Thinsulate to the wall. I apply Thinsulate to every inch of the visible walls of the van. I also tuck Thinsulate into the door, ribs and crevices of the van (everywhere you can). I also take down the headliner over the cab and stuff Thinsulate and Low-E (see below) in there as well. The only place I don’t install Thinsulate is on the floor (more on that later). Once the Thinsulate is completed, I prewire the van and run all the branch wires to where the electrical system will be located. Phase Three: Floor (EPS Foam Board, Silicone, Plywood) Once you’ve installed the sound deadening and Thinsulate, this is a good time to think about installing your subfloor. The process of installing the subfloor is a little different from the rest of the van. I cut three-quarter-inch plywood into three inch wide furring strips and attach them to the floor using marine sealant. I install the furring strips in a grid pattern with each strip about sixteen inches apart vertically and sixteen inches horizontally. Your floor should look like a giant tic-tac-toe board. I then cut three-quarter-inch thick EPS foam board (the kind with the foil on one side) into squares to fit the empty spaces between the furring strips. I place the EPS foam squares with the foil side facing up and tape them in using foil tape. At this point your floor should look like it’s covered in aluminum foil. The last step is to template out your floor onto three-quarter-inch plywood and screw your subfloor into your furring strips with wood screws. Phase Four: Furring Strips (Plywood) In this phase, I install half-inch furring strips (half-inch plywood cut into three-inch wide strips) on all the ribs of the van using Rivnuts (or Plusnuts) but I don’t fully tighten them yet since I will eventually take them down to re-install to hold the Low-E (Phase Four) in place. Furring strips are important for a couple reasons. The first reason is that it gives you something to screw your walls and ceiling into. When you screw directly into the ribs in the van it creates metal on metal squeaking, it creates many more holes in your metal than is necessary (potential for rust) and most importantly it allows heat to be transferred (I will save you a boring lesson on the dynamics of heat transfer) from the metal of the van into the screws and then into your van. Imagine each screw head as a tiny heater giving off heat in your van, hundreds of those tiny heaters give off a lot of heat. The second reason furring strips are important is that they give you the opportunity to create air gaps. Air gaps provide an additional thermal break between your insulation and your interior wall. I will also save you a boring lesson on thermal breaks, but just know that they’re good. I also have a theory that having an air gap creates additional sound insulation, but this is just a theory. The only drawbacks I see to using furring strips would be additional weight, additional cost and losing a half-inch of height and an inch of interior width in your van. Phase Five: Radiant Barrier (Low-E) Low-E is similar to Reflectix, but it is superior in quality. Low-E is a 7/32″ closed cell foam that is backed on both sides with pure aluminum foil (not “metallic looking” plastic like Reflectix). It acts as a reflective radiant barrier to deflect heat from away from the living space. It also acts as a very good vapor barrier and reduces condensation if installed properly. Many automotive window shade manufacturers use Low-E inside their window shades to reduce the amount of radiant heat that is allowed into the vehicle. The Low-E comes in six-foot wide rolls. This means that one piece can cover the entire ceiling, another single piece can cover the passenger wall, and another single piece can cover the driver side wall. I measure and cut a single piece for each wall and another for the ceiling. I also cut pieces for the doors and the headliner over the cab. If you have any Low-E left over and you’re crafty then you can make window shades. I take the Low-E piece I cut for the ceiling and put it up on the ceiling with magnets to hold it in place. I then mark out where all the rivnuts for the furring strips are. I reattach the firring strips to permanently hold the Low-E in place. I repeat the process with the driver’s and passenger side walls. I then tape the seams where the Low-E for the walls and ceiling meet with foil tape. (Don’t forget to make small holes to pull your wires through and make sure the holes are as tight as possible to the wire). You should have a seamless Low-E “shell” inside the van when this stage is completed. There will be an air gap between the Thinsulate and Low-E of about 1/2″+/- depending on the make/model of your van (this is your first air gap). This photo shows the Low-E on the walls with furring strips locking it in place. There is an air gap between the Thinsulate and the back of the Low-E and there will be another air gap between the front of the Low-E and back of the plywood wall. The next step in the photo would be to take the furring strips off the ceiling and install the Low-E and put back the furring strips on top and then tape the seam where the wall and ceiling are joined. (The Low-E on the wall in the photo is cut because there is a window there). Phase Six: Walls & Ceiling (Plywood) Lastly, I install my plywood walls and ceiling by screwing them into the furring strips with wood screws. The space the furring strips creates between your Low-E and plywood walls is your second air gap. Theoretically, any heat that isn’t reflected back by the Low-E would have less of a chance of transferring to your walls. Vanlife Outfitters has been supporting DIY camper van builders since 2016. We have a large collection of blog posts, videos, tips, resources, information and products to help you on your journey into vanlife. If you got any useful information from our site please let us know and if you’re in the market for products to build out a van please consider supporting our store!