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Ford Transit CCP1, CCP2, and Dual Alternator Guide for Camper Vans
If you’re building a Ford Transit camper van, one of the more useful Ford-specific features to understand is the Transit Customer Connection Points. Ford provides an easy method to connect a house electrical system to the vehicle battery system, and in Ford-speak that is a Customer Connection Point, or CCP. The CCPs are one of the reasons the Transit can be a very builder-friendly van for camper conversions. They provide a straightforward way to connect DC-DC chargers to your Transit, but the details matter. Older vans, newer vans, single battery vans, two vehicle battery vans, and vans with the two alternators are not all the same. This post is not trying to duplicate Ford’s order option documentation, and it is definitely not a substitute for reading the Body & Equipment Mounting Manual, or BEMM, for your model year. But if you’re trying to understand Transit CCP1, CCP2, and the Dual Alternator option at a practical level, here is a quick take. What Are Ford Transit Customer Connection Points? Ford provides an easy method to connect a house electrical system to the vehicle battery system, and in Ford-speak that is a Customer Connection Point. The CCP(s) are located on the outside of the driver’s seat pedestal facing the door. The CCP(s) are an ideal way to connect DC-DC chargers to your Transit. Older or single battery vans may have a single 60 Amp CCP1, while newer models with the Dual AGM Batteries or Auxiliary Fuse Panel options have CCP1 as well as a 175 Amp CCP2. The CCPs are fused, and accessing those fuses is pretty annoying since they are located in the pedestal underneath the driver’s seat. Because you have to remove the seat to access the pedestal, we highly recommend designing your electrical usage of the CCPs lower than those fuse values. That is one of the practical points that matters most. Yes, the fuse values set an upper ceiling. No, that does not mean you should design your system right at those limits. CCP1 vs CCP2 CCP1 is always-on, and CCP2 is controlled intelligently on and off by the van’s computer. CCP2 may be load shed during periods of heavy alternator derating due to heat. CCP2 is not always on, and CCP2 typically remains on for some duration after the engine is turned off. If you’re comparing CCP1 and CCP2 for a camper van electrical build, the short version is that CCP1 is simpler and lower-capacity, while CCP2 is the more useful interface for higher-power charging setups when the van is equipped for it. In practical terms, CCP1 may be enough for a more modest electrical build. CCP2 is where things get more interesting if you want more charging power from the alternator while driving or idling. Which Transit Vans Have CCP1 and CCP2? Older or single battery vans may have only CCP1. Newer models with the Dual AGM Batteries or Auxiliary Fuse Panel options have CCP1 as well as CCP2. We think that the Dual AGM Batteries option is important for more than one reason, but one of the big ones is that it provides the CCP2 capability that allows a higher-current interface for DC-DC chargers. Older Transits with specific options may even have CCP3, where all three CCPs are fused at 60 Amps. That means if you’re shopping for a Transit specifically with camper van electrical in mind, it is worth paying attention to the order options and what Customer Connection Points are present - not just whether it has nice lifestyle features like swivel seats or an extended range gas tank. Using DC-DC Chargers with a Ford Transit A Victron Energy Orion XS 50 (or XS 1400 for 24 Volt systems) is a great fit for CCP1 or CCP2. Using one of these chargers provides 50 Amps of charging power from your alternator to your house system. If you have CCP2 without the Dual Alternator option, then you have more alternator capacity for even higher charging power. Ford alternator sizing has increased over the years, and the 250 Amp alternator is standard in the 2020+ models. Using that 250 Amp alternator as an example, roughly 100 Amps of charging power while driving (less at idle) is available for your house battery bank. Manufacturers recommend using no more than 50% of the rated alternator value, and you need to reserve power for the vehicle’s own use, so 100 Amps from a 250 Amp alternator is a reasonable value. Two Orion XS DC-DC chargers in parallel or one Sterling 120 Amp DC-DC battery charger are a great fit for CCP2. This is one place where the Transit can support a pretty capable camper van electrical setup without getting too exotic. If your power needs are moderate, the CCP approach can be a very good way to go. When installing a DC-DC charger in a Transit, you may wonder where's the CCP ground? The CCP(s) rely on a chassis ground, and those grounds are NOT on the driver's seat pedestal near the CCPs. It's important to identify where you'll make your chassis ground connection early in the build. The BEMM details grounding points in the Transit, but many DIYers use the threaded holes from the D-rings that come with the Ford Cargo Tie-Down Hooks order option. Is the Ford Transit Dual Alternator Option Worth It? The Dual Alternator option, which requires the Dual AGM Batteries option and has CCP2, adds a second alternator that works in conjunction with the primary alternator to dramatically increase power at idle as well as reduce alternator heating and loading while the engine is running. More than 150 Amps of power at idle is available from CCP2 with the Dual Alternator option. Technically, 220 Amps of power while driving (or more) may be possible, but that requires wiring around CCP2 directly to the vehicle batteries as well as participating in Ford’s signaling for load shedding. Interfacing directly to CCP2 and staying below that 175 Amp threshold is the easy way, but you can read the BEMM and make things complicated if that extra charging power is important. That is really the tradeoff. The Dual Alternator option can be very attractive if idle charging performance matters to you. But if your system is modest, or if you do not need even-higher power aftermarket secondary alternator charging, Dual Alternator may be the right middle ground for high-enough charging rates with a straightforward DC-DC install. When an Aftermarket Secondary Alternator May Be Better If even more massive charging power is a need for your system, you should avoid the Dual Alternator option and add a separate secondary alternator kit. With a secondary alternator kit, you can still use a DC-DC charger on the primary alternator in parallel with the secondary alternator regulator, so the kit allows much more charging power as compared to the Ford Dual Alternator option. For example with a 12 Volt 280XP secondary alternator kit and one or two Orion XS 50 DC-DC chargers connected to CCP2, well over 300 Amps of charging power can be expected. For some camper van builders, this is probably beyond what is necessary. But for higher-demand systems, it is worth knowing that the factory Dual Alternator option is not the final word in Transit charging capability. Victron vs Sterling for Transit Charging If you have CCP2, this is one area where Victron DC-DC chargers are a little lacking. Right now, you need multiple Victron Orion XS chargers in parallel to take advantage of that 150+ Amps of easily accessible charging power. Sterling offers a one-box solution to fully use the benefits of the dual alternators, but Sterling does not have any integration to the Victron Cerbo GX and touch screen interface if that is important to your system. So the decision is not just about maximum charging output. It can also come down to ecosystem preference, monitoring, and how cleanly you want everything integrated into the rest of your electrical system. Don’t Ignore the Engine Run Signal Victron and Sterling DC-DC chargers have smart alternator sensing modes so that the chargers turn off when the engine is not running. Especially when using CCP1 which is always on, we highly recommend using Ford’s Vehicle Interface Connector (C33) Engine Run signal to the DC-DC charger’s remote terminal to ensure that the charger never depletes your vehicle battery bank. Read the BEMM for specifics on using the C33 interface signals. That is a small detail that can matter a lot in the real world. Even when a device has a smart sensing mode, hardwiring the proper Engine Run signal is the safer and more deliberate way to make sure your charger behaves the way you intend. Final Thoughts Ford Transit CCP1 and CCP2 provide a pretty builder-friendly way to connect a camper van electrical system to the vehicle side of the van. Older or simpler vans may only have CCP1. Vans with the Dual AGM Batteries or Auxiliary Fuse Panel option can also have CCP2, which opens the door to higher-current charging setups. Add the Dual Alternator option, and the Transit becomes even more capable for high-output charging, especially at idle. That does not mean every Transit builder needs CCP2 or two alternators. But if you’re planning a larger electrical system and want to make smart decisions before buying or building, these details are worth understanding early. And as always, read the BEMM for your specific model year before you cut, wire, drill, or assume anything. Frequently Asked Questions What are CCP1 and CCP2 on a Ford Transit? CCP stands for Customer Connection Point. Ford provides these connection points as an easier way to interface with the van’s battery system. In a camper van build, they are commonly used to connect DC-DC chargers to the vehicle side of the electrical system. What is the difference between CCP1 and CCP2? CCP1 is a lower-capacity connection point and is always on. CCP2 is higher-capacity and is controlled by the van’s computer. In practical terms, CCP1 can work well for simple, small charging setups, while CCP2 is the more useful option for higher-output camper van electrical systems. Which Ford Transit vans have CCP2? Older or single-battery vans may have only CCP1. Newer vans with the Dual AGM Batteries or Auxiliary Fuse Panel options can have both CCP1 and CCP2. If higher-current charging matters to your build, these are options worth paying attention to before you buy the van. Can I use a DC-DC charger with CCP1 or CCP2? Yes. Both CCP1 and CCP2 can be used with DC-DC chargers. A Victron Orion XS 50 is a strong fit for either one. If your Transit has CCP2, it gives you more room for larger charging setups than CCP1 does. CCP1 and CCP2 can be used simultaneously to different devices, but you should NOT connect CCP1 and CCP2 together. Is the Ford Transit Dual Alternator option worth it for a camper van? It can be, especially if idle charging performance matters to you. The Dual Alternator option adds a second alternator that increases available charging power at idle and helps reduce alternator loading while the engine is running. For higher-demand electrical systems, that can be a meaningful advantage. Should I design my system right up to the CCP fuse limits? No. The CCPs are fused, but those fuses are not especially convenient to access. You must design your system below those fuse limits rather than treating the fuse rating as your target operating point. Is Victron or Sterling better for a Ford Transit charging setup? That depends on your priorities. Victron is a very good fit if you want consistency with the broader Victron ecosystem and monitoring tools. Sterling can be attractive if you want a one-box higher-amperage solution, especially for taking fuller advantage of CCP2. The better choice depends on your system goals, not just the charger specs alone. Should I use Ford’s C33 Engine Run signal? Yes, especially if you are using CCP1. Because CCP1 is always on, wiring the C33 Engine Run signal to the charger’s remote terminals is a smart way to ensure the charger does not deplete your vehicle battery bank. Even if your charger has smart sensing features, using the proper Engine Run signal is a more deliberate approach. Additional Resources Ford Transit page. Use Build & Price to see all of the Ford options. Ford Transit Body & Equipment Mounting Manual Search by Model and “mounting manual” to find your model year BEMM. Ford Transit USA Forum is an active community of Transit owners and DIY camper van conversion enthusiasts.
Learn more Victron Lynx Distributor Fuse Size Guide: Mega Fuse Selection Chart
The Victron Energy Lynx Distributor is a really convenient device that provides both positive and negative bus bars, along with four fuse locations for power distribution to your chargers and loads. The Lynx Distributor uses Mega fuses, but the right fuse size depends on the specific device in your electrical system. In this short guide, we provide a quick reference for manufacturer-recommended Lynx Distributor fuse sizes for common components like Victron MultiPlus inverter/chargers, Orion DC/DC chargers, MPPT charge controllers, Wakespeed alternator setups, and load centers. We recommend a Lynx Distributor as part of your camper van electrical system in all of our free example wiring diagrams, whether or not your system includes other Victron Lynx devices. This blog is short and sweet – keep reading for a quick reference guide to choosing fuses for your Lynx Distributor, This guide applies to both M8 and M10 Lynx versions that use the same Mega fuses. How To Choose The Right Lynx Distributor Fuse Size The Lynx Distributor uses Mega fuses. Mega fuses support fuse ratings from 40 Amps up to 500 Amps. Many customers contact us looking for help with Lynx Distributor fuse size selection. How do we pick fuse ratings? We read the manual! In most cases, the device manufacturer already tells you the recommended fuse size, so this guide simply pulls those recommendations into one place for quick reference. That is especially helpful for common van electrical components like inverter/chargers, DC/DC chargers, MPPT charge controllers, secondary alternators, and load centers, where fuse size can vary quite a bit by model and system voltage. Common Fuse Sizing Mistakes Choosing the right fuse size is not the same thing as sizing your cable. A fuse recommendation helps protect the branch circuit and connected device, but cable size still needs to be chosen based on current, cable length, voltage drop, insulation rating, and installation conditions. In other words, do not assume the fuse size automatically tells you which wire size to use. We recommend using the Blue Sea Circuit Wizard to help with cable sizing. DC/DC chargers and MPPT charge controllers can also require a little extra attention. With many DC/DC chargers, the house battery side needs a fuse, and the vehicle battery side does too. With MPPTs, the battery-side fuse is only part of the picture, and a solar-side disconnect is often recommended as well. This chart is meant to give you a quick starting point for the Lynx Distributor side of the system, while still pointing you back to the manufacturer documentation for full installation details. Victron Lynx Distributor Fuse Chart By Device Use the chart below to find manufacturer-recommended Mega fuse sizes for common devices used with the Victron Lynx Distributor. Select the column for your system voltage. Match your device model exactly. Use the manufacturer-recommended fuse size shown. Confirm cable size and installation details separately. Device System Voltage 12 Volts 24 Volts 48 Volts Inverter/charger MultiPlus 12/2000/80300 Amp MultiPlus 12/3000/120400 Amp MultiPlus 24/3000/70300 Amp MultiPlus 48/3000/35125 Amp MultiPlus 48/5000/70200 Amp DC/DC charger OUT House battery side fuseIN Vehicle battery side also requires fuse Orion-Tr Smart 12/12/3060 Amp Orion XS 5060 Amp Orion XS 140060 Amp 2x Orion XS 50125 Amp 2x Orion XS 1400125 Amp MPPT charge controller BATT House battery side fusePV solar side disconnect recommended MPPT 100/2040 Amp MPPT 100/3040 Amp MPPT 150/3540 Amp MPPT 100/5060 Amp MPPT 150/6080 Amp MPPT 150/7080 Amp MPPT 150/85100 Amp Secondary alternator 280XP300 Amp 55XP200 Amp 51V-HPX100125 Amp Load center (12 Volts) Primary fuse to branch fuses in load center Direct to load center80 Amps Orion 24/12-70 to load center60 Amps 2x Orion-Tr 48/12-30 to load center40 Amps Example wiring diagram uses Littelfuse holder with 80 Amps for additional capacity. See Bonus Tips below Bonus Tip #1: Blown Fuse Monitoring The Lynx Distributor has a power LED as well as four fuse status LEDs. These LEDs can help you detect blown fuses. If the Lynx Distributor is connected to a Lynx Smart BMS (using the RJ10 cable) then the fuse status can be viewed with the VictronConnect app or by using a Cerbo GX and touch screen. If you do not use all four Mega fuse locations in your Lynx Distributor, you will see false alarms from the unused locations (because having no fuse is an “open” just like a blown fuse). We recommend installing spare Mega fuses in unused fuse locations to work around this nit. If you don’t have a Lynx device connected to your Lynx Distributor to power the LEDs, then you may want to check out the Turning On The LED Lights On The Lynx Distributor hack in this blog. Bonus Tip #2: Using a 5th fuse or connection with a Lynx Distributor If you use up all four Lynx Mega fuse holders but still need another fuse location (or three), we recommend a few ways to expand. A MRBF Terminal Fuse Block and fuse fits nicely on the “upper right” positive stud of the Lynx Distributor. For a single extra fused branch, wire your extra charging source or load directly to the MRBF. The MRBF can be expanded with a Littelfuse MIDI Fuse Holder (3 Position) which acts as a compact secondary bus bar for up to 200 Amps of maximum current with three MIDI fuse holders. MIDI fuses range from 30 Amps and up. Using a short (less than 7”) cable, you can bolt a lug directly to the “upper right” positive stud and use an inline fuse holder (that comes with some devices like air conditioners), a Mega Fuse Holder, or a MIDI Fuse Holder. Frequently Asked Questions What fuse size should I use for a Victron Lynx Distributor? The Lynx Distributor uses Mega fuses, but the correct fuse size depends on the specific device connected to that fused branch. In most cases, the best place to start is the device manual. This guide is meant to save you time by pulling together manufacturer-recommended fuse sizes for common devices like MultiPlus inverter/chargers, Orion DC/DC chargers, MPPT charge controllers, Wakespeed alternator setups, and load centers. Does the Victron Lynx Distributor use Mega fuses? Yes. The Victron Lynx Distributor uses Mega fuses for up to four positive fused connections. Mega fuses are a good fit for many camper van electrical system components because they are available in a wide range of current ratings and are commonly used for higher-current branches like inverter/chargers, chargers, and load centers. What is the difference between Victron Lynx Distributor M8 and M10? The main difference is the stud size on the bus bars. The M10 model uses M10 studs for interconnecting other Lynx devices or external lugs, while the M8 version uses M8 studs. For either version, the fuse connections require M8 lugs. The M10 version replaced the M8 version, so most newer systems will use M10. Can I use a Lynx Distributor without a Lynx Smart BMS? Yes. A Lynx Distributor can be used as a standalone set of positive and negative bus bars with four fused connections. It does not require a Lynx Smart BMS to function. That said, if you want certain LED and monitoring features to work through the broader Lynx system, you may need another Lynx device such as a Lynx Smart BMS or Lynx Shunt. Do I need a fuse on both the input and output side of a DC/DC charger? Yes. For DC/DC chargers, it is common for the house battery side to require a fuse and for the vehicle battery side to require one as well. The exact setup depends on the charger model and your wiring layout, so always confirm with the manufacturer documentation. This guide is intended as a quick reference, not a substitute for the installation manual. What does a Victron Lynx Distributor do? A Victron Lynx Distributor provides a clean way to distribute both positive and negative power in your electrical system while also giving you four fused positive connections for major devices and branches. In practical terms, it helps organize your system, reduce wiring clutter, and add overcurrent protection to important circuits like chargers, inverter/chargers, and load centers. Do I connect both negative and positive to the Lynx Distributor? Yes, the Lynx Distributor contains two separate bus bars. The red, top bar is for positive, and the black, bottom bar is for negative. How do I connect a Cerbo GX to a Lynx Distributor? A Lynx Distributor does not bolt directly to a Cerbo GX. A Lynx Shunt or Lynx Smart BMS is required to transmit data to a Cerbo GX. Additional Resources Learn about our systems and free example wiring diagrams Victron Energy Lynx Distributor manual
Learn more Victron Cerbo GX User Interface Overview: Classic versus New GUI
The Victron Cerbo GX gives you a central way to monitor and control your camper van or off-grid electrical system. Victron has offered two Graphical User Interfaces (GUIs) for several years. The features in the interfaces are almost the same, but the look is Oh. So. Different. If you have a Cerbo GX or Ekrano GX and didn’t realize the flexibility you have for your touch screen appearance, then this post is for you! This blog provides a comparison and explains how to switch between the Victron Cerbo user interfaces, the Classic GUI and the New GUI. That’s right, there’s another super thoughtful name from Victron…”New GUI”. We can’t wait to talk about the “New New GUI” in another few years. Feel free to check out this video from Victron highlighting the New GUI. Keeping reading for our take. And let’s get this out of the way: I’m biased. I’m on Team New GUI. The look is a little sleeker, more information is available on fewer pages, and it takes less taps to navigate. We’re starting to see some features available only on the New GUI, and we expect that trend to continue. But to be honest for now both user interfaces offer essentially the same information. Before we dive into the details, check out this high-level comparison of the two interfaces. Feature Classic GUI New GUI Default display Often yes No Firmware version Any version v3.50 or higher Layout style Familiar look More modern Navigation More taps Fewer taps Future feature support Stable Stable Stronger moving forward Best for Familiarity New installs Long term use Classic GUI Most customers are familiar with the Classic GUI Overview page. Chances are that you received a Cerbo GX needing a firmware update, and Classic is the default. Everything (well, almost everything?) you need to know about configuring and using the Classic user interface is covered in this previous blog post. Tapping the Overview screen gives you the Menu option, and you can scroll down to the Settings options. We want to call out two specific Settings pages in this blog: Menu -> Settings -> Firmware -> Online updates is where firmware updates can be completed. Don’t forget that your Cerbo needs a good Wi-Fi connection to the internet for firmware updates as covered in our setup blog. Menu -> Settings -> Display & language -> User interface is how to customize your touch screen display. In particular, this page is where to switch from Classic GUI to New GUI. You must install firmware v3.50 or higher to use the New GUI. And don’t worry, when selecting an interface you’re not making a life commitment. Feel free to switch back and forth between the two user interfaces to see which one is best for you. You may have heard of a powerful add-on for the Victron display called GuiMods. Victron incorporated many of the GuiMods enhancements into the New GUI, so now GuiMods is deprecated and not necessary. We highly recommend running the New GUI, and these included features are one of the reasons! New GUI The New GUI features an improved layout requiring less navigation and presenting more information on each screen. As in Classic, you tap the screen to “wake” the interface, and your primary screen navigation options show along the bottom. In the New GUI, these pages are termed Brief, Overview, Levels, Notifications, and Settings. You have the capability to set the default Start page that’s shown after the screen returns from sleep, and you can hide certain screens like Brief to suit your preferences. There is also a Boat page that can be enabled as the 6th main navigation screen. The pages shown below are with the Display mode set to Dark. You can also set the Display mode to Light. The Brief page shows charging sources on the left, State of Charge & a snapshot of Levels in the middle, and loads on the right. Brief is exactly that, a brief high-level summary of your system status. The Overview page is similar to the Classic Overview. As in the Brief page, sources are on the left and loads are on the right. You can tap each source or load to “dive in” to an expanded view of each device. The center of the Overview shows your battery bank and your inverter/charger (is it a charging source or is it a load!? Yes!? depending on what’s plugged in.) Some quick navigation icons are shown at the top left of any page that’s “awake”, as shown in the following screenshots starting with the Overview. These icons provide quick navigation to set your inverter/charger mode (On, Charger only, or Off) and to control switches & relays. Victron will probably add even more icons here over time. The Levels page shows all connected Tanks levels and temperature sensors (Environment in Victron-speak). The Notifications page shows warnings and alarms from all connected devices. These notices include 3rd party devices like SOK batteries with Victron Communications and the Wakespeed regulator in a secondary alternator kit. If everything is swell in your system, it should read No current alerts like the picture below. If you’ve got an alarm that you can’t resolve, maybe it’s time to contact us. The Settings page is used primarily during your commissioning phase. The Settings -> General -> Display page is useful for tailoring many display preferences to suit your needs. As in Classic, we’ll call out two specific New GUI Settings pages pertinent to this blog: Settings -> General -> Firmware -> Online updates is where firmware updates can be completed. Don’t forget that your Cerbo needs a good Wi-Fi connection to the internet for firmware updates as covered in our updated setup blog. Settings -> General -> Display & Appearance -> User interface is how to customize your touch screen display, including switching back to the Classic GUI from the New GUI. As you can see, the page names and navigation is ever so slightly different between the two interfaces, but the information is comparable. Note that in recent Victron firmware releases, we’re seeing more information that is available only in the New GUI. An example of this is detailed battery cell information for NG batteries. We expect to see more focus on the New GUI in the future, so that’s yet another reason we highly recommend going New. Wrap Up The Cerbo GX user interface lets you customize your camper van touch screen display. For most users, we recommend the New GUI. The Classic GUI is still useful for those that prefer the traditional layout, however some features are now being supported only in the New GUI. Especially when commissioning a new system, we recommend starting by updating the firmware and testing both interfaces. Pick the user interface that works best for you, and enjoy using your system! Please check out all of our products in our store. If you have any questions about the Cerbo GX user interfaces or any of our products, please don’t hesitate to contact us. Frequency Asked Questions 1, What is the Victron Energy Cerbo GX? The Cerbo GX (MK2) is Victron’s communication center that allows you to always have perfect control over your system from wherever you are and maximizes its performance. Simply access the Cerbo directly using a touch screen or remotely using the Victron Remote Management (VRM) portal. 2. What is the difference between the Classic GUI and New GUI on the Cerbo GX? The Victron Cerbo GX New GUI provides a modern, high-speed interface with improved visualization, including more customization, a Brief view, and support for Light and Dark modes. The Classic GUI features a more traditional, boxy layout and color palette. 3. Do I need to update firmware to use the New GUI on Cerbo GX? Yes. Update the Cerbo GX to the latest firmware version (v3.50 or higher) to support the New GUI. 4, How do I switch from Classic GUI to New GUI on the Victron Cerbo GX? First update firmware using the Classic GUI by navigating to Menu -> Settings -> Firmware -> Online updates. Then navigate to Menu -> Settings -> Display & language -> User interface and switch to New GUI. 5. Can I switch back from the New GUI to the Classic GUI on Cerbo GX? Yes. You can switch between the New GUI or the Classic GUI to suit your preferences. In the New GUI, navigate to Settings -> General -> Display & Appearance -> User interface to switch back to the Classic GUI. 6. How do I connect a Cerbo GX to Wi-Fi? In order to perform firmware updates or use the Victron Remote Monitoring (VRM) portal, the Cerbo GX needs a strong Wi-Fi connection. The Cerbo’s internal antenna is not meant for long range connections. Using your touch screen, navigate to Menu -> Settings -> Wi-Fi -> Wi-Fi networks. Select the network name you wish to connect to and press on the empty “field” area on the right side of the password row. This will open a virtual keyboard allowing you to enter the password for the Wi-Fi network. After you enter the password and return to that network’s screen, you should see that the “State” row reads “Connected”. If not connected, either your Wi-Fi strength is too low or you incorrectly entered your password. Try moving your Cerbo closer to the Wi-Fi router if you’re sure that the password is correct. Additional Resources Cerbo GX setup guides: How to configure your system using the Classic GUI How to set up remote monitoring in the New GUI How to configure your system in the VRM with the New GUI Cerbo communication center manual: Victron Energy Cerbo GX Product pages Cerbo GX (MK2) Touch GX
Learn more Victron Energy Cables: Explained!
VE.Bus, VE.CAN, VE.Direct, Wakespeed, SeeLevel and more! We hope you’re sitting down to read this blog, because this post covers the super exciting topic of communication cables! Victron Energy currently offers more than 20 different communication cables for their electrical devices, and that doesn’t include even more “cables” that Victron chooses to call “sensors”. But don’t worry, we’re not here to bore you with long descriptions of every single cable available. We’re here to bore you with just a handful of the popular cables needed for camper van electrical systems. Cable-shaming aside, the numerous Victron electrical devices, protocols, and cables that are required for your system can be a confusing topic. And you need to have the correct cables for your system to work properly. So let’s dive in. All of these cables (and more!) are laid out in our camper van electrical system blog posts and corresponding free example wiring diagrams. If those posts plus this blog still doesn’t make it clear, we are always happy to help so please contact us. This guide focuses on Victron Energy system cables – the data and communication cables that let Victron components share information and work together (VE.Bus, VE.CAN, VE.Direct, and related adapters). This guide does not cover battery or inverter power cable sizing (which requires a separate fuse and wire-size approach). Table of Contents Here’s a list of all of the super exciting cables covered in this blog. Victron Cable Top 3 VE.Bus / VE.CAN VE.Direct Battery Extension Other Useful Cables RJ10 Temperature sensor Wakespeed to Victron crossover RV-C to VE.CAN adapter Keep reading for all the gory cable details. But check out this at-a-glance table to whet your cable appetite. Cable type Device it connects to Typical cable quantity VE.Bus Multiplus 1 VE.CAN Lynx Shunt Lynx BMS 1 VE.Direct SmartShunt Orion XS MPPT Charge Controller 1 per device if you have a Cerbo Battery Extension Lynx BMS 1 RJ10 Lynx Distributor 1 (included with Lynx Distributor) Temperature sensor Multiplus 1 (included with Multiplus) Wakespeed to Victron crossover Wakespeed WS500 & Pro 1 RV-C to VE.CAN adapter SeeLevel panel 1 Victron Cable Top 3 Here are the three most-needed cables for Victron equipment in your rig. VE.Bus / VE.CAN Cables are Ethernet-style cables used by higher-power and higher-speed Victron devices such as Multiplus inverter/chargers, Lynx Shunts, and Lynx Smart BMS. Cerbo GX communication centers connect to those high power/speed devices and have both VE.Bus ports and VE.CAN ports, which are connections using different protocols for different devices that confusingly but conveniently happen to share the same cable type. VE.Direct Cables are proprietary cables used by lower-power and lower-cost Victron devices such as SmartShunts, Orion XS DC-DC chargers, and SmartSolar MPPT Charge Controllers. Typically, VE.Direct cables are used to connect these devices to a Cerbo GX. M8 (Circular) Battery Extension Cables are used to connect Lithium Smart & NG batteries communications to an external Smart BMS. More details about these cables are covered below. And don’t you worry, we’ll touch on a few more important cables too! Most Victron devices have only one type of communication, therefore you only need to understand one cable per device. The main exception is the Cerbo GX communication center, which supports almost all of the communication & cable types in order to function as a center-of-communications. If you have a Cerbo in your system, which is highly recommended, then we suggest auditing your other Victron devices and temporarily ignoring the Cerbo itself. After all, all of those other devices will be connected to the Cerbo, and let’s not further confuse things by double-counting cables. Lastly, if you don’t have a Cerbo GX, then you probably just need one VE.Bus / VE.CAN cable for your Multiplus inverter/charger. Keep reading for funsies, but that may be all you need to know! VE.Bus / VE.CAN Cables Most camper van electrical systems have a Multiplus inverter/charger, and Multiplus devices are VE.Bus products. In addition to Multiplus devices, some standalone BMS devices use VE.Bus. VE.Bus runs the Victron MK2/MK3 protocol, which is a fancy way of saying Victron uses a proprietary, serial communication protocol for their Multiplus & other VE.Bus products. VE.CAN devices typically used in camper vans include Lynx Shunts, Lynx Smart BMS, and certain higher-powered MPPT Charge Controllers. VE.CAN runs a CAN protocol that supports a mix of Victron proprietary and 3rd party “structures”. We’ll talk about some of that 3rd party support a little bit later in Other Useful Cables. Both the VE.Bus and VE.CAN communication ports use the same cable. We offer several of the most popular lengths of VE.Bus / VE.CAN cables in our store. How many VE.Bus / VE.CAN cables do you need? If you do not have a Cerbo in your system, the answer is likely one, which would be the number of Multiplus inverter/charger devices in your rig. You’ll still want one cable to configure and update firmware in your Multiplus even if you don’t use a Cerbo. You may also want to understand Victron dongles in that case. If you do have a Cerbo, then prepare for math. This is not so tough math where the answer is typically one or two. Add up the number of Multiplus inverter/chargers, then add one more if you have a Lynx Shunt or BMS. Even if you have a ton of solar and use a MPPT with VE.CAN, those devices also have VE.Direct ports; you must use one cable or the other (not both together) on those MPPTs, and we find it easiest to stick with VE.Direct for all MPPT Charge Controllers. Our suggestion is to buy a longer cable than you think is necessary. The cost difference between the common cable lengths is negligible. It’s best to coil up any excess cable when you’re dressing your completed system. Don’t short yourself (literally!) and make maintenance or future changes difficult. You can use off-the-shelf Ethernet cables with couplers to extend these cables, but if you do please use high quality CAT6e cables. Your critical Multiplus & BMS information relies on good quality communication, and that means you need good quality cables. Terminators are mini-cables, and they can be confusing too. Those blue things that come in your Cerbo box that look like Ethernet connectors with no wire? That’s the terminators we’re talking about. What do you do with the terminators? Do not use terminators on the VE.Bus. Any unused VE.Bus ports on your Multiplus or on your Cerbo can remain open & unused. Unused VE.CAN ports require terminators. Any unused CAN port on your Lynx Shunt or Lynx Smart BMS needs a terminator. Cerbo GX devices have two “sets” of CAN ports, one labeled VE.CAN and one labeled BMS-CAN. Any unused port in a “set” that is used needs a terminator. Hopefully a picture is worth a thousand words, and the next section makes that clear. BONUS Cerbo GX VE.Bus and VE.CAN Connections: Explained! We know that some of you are drifting off already. Stay frosty! If you’re going to learn about cables, it’s probably pretty important to plug the cables into the right places too. Don’t forget that all of these cables are nicely laid out in our example wiring diagrams too. This blog is focused on the popular communication cables for Victron equipment. Those popular cable locations on the Cerbo are highlighted below. When looking at the front face of the Cerbo, there are six Ethernet-like ports in a row along the back of the device (closest to the mounting surface); these six ports are the VE.Bus and VE.CAN ports (right to left). The purple box shows the two VE.Bus ports. Typically you’ll use one of the two ports for your Multiplus inverter/charger connection, and the remaining one will be empty. The blue boxes show the two “sets” of two CAN ports, titled VE.CAN and BMS-CAN. These are two separate CAN buses that can be configured to use different protocols and speeds. We recommend that your Lynx Shunt or Lynx Smart BMS (and maybe your Wakespeed regulator as part of your secondary alternator system) use the VE.CAN ports. If you have additional CAN devices such as batteries with Victron communications or a SeeLevel Tank Monitoring Kit, those can use the BMS-CAN port. Remember that if you use only one of the two ports in a “set”, the remaining port in that “set” needs a terminator. If you don’t use the VE.CAN ports or the BMS-CAN ports at all, then no worries a terminator isn’t critical. Above the VE.CAN and VE.Bus ports (closest to the pretty blue front cover and away from the mounting surface), there is another row with a bunch of different port types. The red box shows the Cerbo Ethernet port. As in not Ethernet-like but really Ethernet for a connection to a Starlink or additional router. Many customers confuse this port on the top row for a VE.Bus connection. The green boxes show the VE.Direct ports, and those are important for the next type of popular communication cables. VE.Direct Cables Victron devices with VE.Direct communication include the SmartShunts,, newer Orion XS DC-DC chargers (XS 50 and XS 1400; unfortunately none of the previous generation Smart DC-DC chargers support VE.Direct), and almost every BlueSolar and SmartSolar MPPT Charge Controller (except some very old and low-power versions not typical in camper vans at this point). If you have upgraded from a BMV-712 Smart Battery Monitor to add a Cerbo, you will also benefit from using the VE.Direct port on the monitor. VE.Direct is a proprietary serial interface that uses Victron-specific VE.Direct cables available in many lengths through our store. How many VE.Direct cables do you need? If you do not have a Cerbo in your system, you do not need any VE.Direct cables. If you do have a Cerbo, then prepare for some more math. But this is still fingers-on-one-hand kind of math, so don’t worry. Add up the number of Orion XS DC-DC Chargers (typically one or two), then add the number of MPPT Charge Controllers (typically one or two), and then add one more if you have a SmartShunt or a BMV-712. If you counted past three, read the next paragraph. You’ll need from zero to three VE.Direct cables in a system. Keep in mind that the Cerbo GX provides three VE.Direct ports (those green ones in the Cerbo pic above). If you have a robust system with more than three VE.Direct devices, you will need to expand your empire by using a VE.Direct to USB Interface Cable for the 4th (and even 5th?) VE.Direct device. The interface cable includes the USB end and the VE.Direct end, so you do not have to add yet another VE.Direct cable. Those additional VE.Direct devices would plug into USB ports on the Cerbo instead. As in the VE.Bus / VE.CAN cables, our suggestion is to buy a longer VE.Direct cable than you think is necessary. It’s not practical to extend VE.Direct cables. It’s best to buy long and coil up any excess cable when you’re dressing your completed system. M8 (Circular) Battery Extension Cables M8 Battery Extension Cables can be used to extend the BMS communication cable pigtails that come attached to Victron Lithium Smart and NG batteries. The pigtails on the batteries are 20 in long, so in most practical camper van electronic system layouts one M8 Battery Extension Cable (pair) is required to connect your battery bank to your BMS. M8 Battery Extension Cables come as a pair, and our store has several Battery Extension Cable length options to choose from. How many M8 Battery Extension Cables do you need? If you do not have a Victron ‘external BMS’ system using Lithium Smart or NG batteries, then you do not need any M8 Battery Extension Cables. If you do have a Victron ‘external BMS’ system using Lithium Smart or NG batteries, then you likely need one M8 Battery Extension Cable (pair). In keeping with our cable length theme, make sure that you select a long enough cable to allow for Manhattan routing and room for maintenance. A little extra coiled up cable is a wise choice. Other Useful Cables Here are four more cables for Victron systems worthy of a quick discussion. 1) The RJ10 cable Yes, Victron calls it the “RJ10 cable” and nothing more, so we’re sticking with that. Every Lynx Distributor comes with a 15 inch, 4-pin cable that is essentially an old telephone cord. (Let’s just assume you’re old enough to understand that reference! If not, ignore.) The RJ10 cable allows a Lynx Shunt or Smart or NG BMS to power the Distributor LEDs and report blown fuse detection. If you don’t have a Lynx Shunt or Smart BMS, then you do not need to use that RJ10 cable. If you really want to see those Lynx Distributor LEDs on without a Lynx Shunt or BMS, then check out the Turning On The LED Lights On The Lynx Distributor hack at the end of this blog. 2) Temperature sensor for Multiplus or Cerbo GX Your Multiplus inverter/charger comes with a temperature sensor (aka cable) that is typically used to measure battery temperature by attaching the ring lug to the negative post. This cable can also be used as an input to a Cerbo GX. If you have Victron Lithium Smart or NG batteries, or if you’re using batteries with Victron communications in conjunction with DVCC, then you do not need to use the temperature sensor. For systems with internal BMS batteries without communication, using the temperature sensor with your Multiplus is a wise approach to prevent damaging your batteries in extreme temperatures. If you misplaced (lost!) the cable that was included with your Multiplus, it is also available in our store. 3) Wakespeed to Victron Crossover Cable If you’re using a secondary alternator system for massive charging power, you’ll likely want to include a Wakespeed to Victron Crossover Cable. This cable supports the CAN communication between your BMS (via the Cerbo) and a 3rd party device, the Wakespeed regulator. Don’t forget that the blue end of the crossover cable plugs into your Victron equipment, and the black end of the crossover plugs into your Wakespeed regulator. A black terminator is also included, and that plugs into the unused CAN port on your Wakespeed. The Wakespeed to Victron Crossover Cable is 4’ long, and the cable can be extended with a high-quality Ethernet cable and coupler. 4) RV-C to VE.CAN Adapter for SeeLevel This SeeLevel Tank Monitoring Kit is a nice addition to systems with a Cerbo GX. This 3rd party kit is actually a nice addition to any system, but you won’t worry about the RV-C to VE.CAN Adapter for SeeLevel cable unless you have a Cerbo! This cable plugs into the back of a Garnet SeeLevel 709-N2K-NLP panel and allows the RV-C protocol to plug into one of the Cerbo CAN ports (either VE.CAN or BMS-CAN, as you’ll need to change the protocol and speed as part of configuration). RV-C uses CAN, so yes you need to use terminators. The terminator for the panel is included as part of the adapter cable, but don’t forget to use the blue terminator in any unused CAN port at your Cerbo. The RV-C to VE.CAN Adapter for SeeLevel is 6’ long, and the cable can be extended with a high-quality Ethernet cable and coupler. Wrap Up - Cable Selection Guide At A Glance Whether you program your Multiplus with a dongle or through your Cerbo GX, you’ll still need a VE.Bus cable. Your device What to buy Have a Multiplus? Add one VE.CAN / VE.Bus cable If you have a Cerbo GX, and we highly recommend that you do, follow this guide: Your device What to buy Have a Lynx Shunt or Lynx BMS? Add one VE.CAN / VE.Bus cable Have a SmartShunt or BMV-712? Add one VE.Direct cable Have a Orion XS 50 or XS 1400 DC-DC Charger? Add one VE.Direct cable for each charger Have a MPPT Charge Controller? Add one VE.Direct cable for each controller Have a Wakespeed WS500? Add one Wakespeed to Victron crossover cable Have a SeeLevel Tank Monitoring Kit? Add one RV-C to VE.CAN adapter But it’s okay if you don’t have a Cerbo. You probably do not require any more communication cables. Frequently Asked Questions 1. How many VE.Direct devices can a Cerbo support? The Cerbo GX allows up to three VE.Direct cables to be plugged in. For additional VE.Direct devices, use a VE.Direct to USB Interface Cable instead. Those additional VE.Direct devices will use USB ports on the Cerbo. 2. Do I need terminators for VE.CAN? Plug terminators into unused CAN ports. Use blue terminators on unused Victron VE.CAN ports. Use black terminators on unused Wakespeed CAN ports. Do not use terminators on unused VE.Bus ports. 3. What is the difference between VE.Bus and VE.CAN? VE.Bus and VE.CAN are both communications protocols, but the protocols use different technologies and are supported by different types of products. Multiplus inverter/chargers are VE.Bus products. Lynx Shunts and BMS use VE.CAN. Both VE.Bus and VE.CAN use the same cables. 4. What is the difference between VE.Bus and VE.Direct? VE.Bus and VE.Direct are both communication protocols, however they use different cables and work on different devices. VE.Bus units are typically high-power devices like Multiplus inverter/chargers. VE.Direct units are typically lower power devices such as DC-DC chargers and MPPT Charge Controllers. 5. Can I extend Victron cables? VE.Bus / VE.CAN cables, a Wakespeed to Victron Crossover Cable, and a RV-C to VE.CAN Adapter for SeeLevel can all be extended using high quality Ethernet cables and couplers. It is not practical to extend VE.Direct cables - buy a longer cable. Additional Resources Victron Cables product information Victron Data Communication white pape Secondary Alternator Example Power System Accurate Tank Monitoring with a Cerbo GX and SeeLeve Free example wiring diagrams
Learn more Victron Energy Dongles: Explained!
Interface MK3 to USB, VE.Bus Smart, and VE.Direct Bluetooth Smart What is a dongle and when do I need one? This post explains Victron Energy’s confusing accessories for configuring and monitoring Victron systems. First, let’s get this out of the way. A dongle is a small device able to be connected to and used with a computer. Sometimes Victron calls it a dongle. Sometimes Victron calls it an interface. We dunno, but we’ll call it a dongle if you call us asking for more info on our Victron products. Types of Dongles Victron offers several dongles for different purposes and products. If you need to configure settings, update firmware, or remotely monitor your Victron device with VictronConnect, keep reading! As of this posting (early 2026), our store has three types of Victron Energy dongles available. Most camper van electrical systems are interested in the first two of these dongles below, while some customers upgrading older non-Bluetooth devices may be considering the third dongle. Let’s break them down. An Interface MK3 to USB (we’ll call it a MK3-USB dongle!) is used to configure settings and update firmware for VE.Bus products. VE.Bus products are Multiplus inverter/chargers, standalone BMS, and some inverters. There are two MK3-USB dongle options, with the only difference between the two being a USB-A connector (the O.G. rectangular USB connection) versus a USB-C connector (the newer, slimmer port as found on phones, tablets, etc.). A VE.Bus Smart Dongle is used to monitor and operate VE.Bus products via Bluetooth. “Operate” means changing the input current limit as well as switching between Off, On and Charger-only modes on an inverter/charger. A VE.Direct Bluetooth Smart Dongle adds a Bluetooth interface to monitor devices such as the BMV-70x series battery monitors (not the newer BMV-712 with integrated Bluetooth), Phoenix Inverters with VE.Direct port, and MPPT Solar Charge Controllers without Bluetooth. Don’t confuse VE.Bus devices with VE.Direct devices. VE.Bus units are typically high-power devices like Multiplus inverter/chargers, and these devices use an “Ethernet” VE.Bus cable. VE.Direct units are typically lower power devices such as DC-DC chargers and MPPT Charge Controllers, and these devices use a proprietary VE.Direct cable. Each of those device types needs a different dongle. What’s up with all these Victron protocols and cables? Check out our Victron Energy Cables: Explained! blog. When do I need a MK3-USB dongle? A MK3-USB dongle (again, formally titled an Interface MK3 to USB by Victron) can be used to configure settings and update firmware on your Multiplus via the VictronConnect app. Victron still ships Multiplus products configured for AGM batteries, so most customers need to configure their inverter/chargers for lithium-ion batteries and adjust their settings as explained here. However, if your system has a Cerbo GX command center, you can perform all of the configuration steps and firmware updates using the VRM without needing a separate MK3-USB dongle. You have two options for configuring your Multiplus settings and updating firmware 1) with a Victron Cerbo through the VRM or 2) using a laptop/phone* directly to a MK3-USB dongle. You MUST pick one of these options. Since you’ll need at least one dongle to configure and update your Multiplus, and maybe you want the ability to control your Multiplus remotely with a second dongle (see next section below), we highly recommend considering a Cerbo GX instead of worrying about dongles at all. You get more features, consolidated configuration & operation, plus the ability for remote troubleshooting & diagnostics for just a little more investment. Bonus tip: while we think the Cerbo pairs perfectly with a touch screen, you can use the Cerbo through VRM and/or Bluetooth without a touch screen if you choose. If you choose to use a MK3-USB dongle for configuring your Multiplus and you do have a Cerbo in your system, don’t forget that those VE.Bus connections should be mutually exclusive. Connect the VE.Bus cable to your dongle initially, then disconnect the dongle and make the connection from the Cerbo to the Multiplus. Put your dongle in your maintenance area, as you may need it for future firmware updates. If you need a MK3-USB dongle, your only decision is to pick between USB-A (top) and USB-C (bottom) connectors. Aside from the connector, both dongles perform the same functions. Generally speaking, laptops using VictronConnect and/or VEConfigure software trend towards USB-A ports, and newer phones & tablets using VictronConnect are using USB-C ports. Lastly, if you’re a power user or in a big rig with multiple Multiplus devices in split-phase or parallel configurations, then you will need a MK3-USB dongle for proper configuration of the inverter/chargers. When do I need a VE.Bus Smart Dongle? A VE.Bus Smart Dongle adds Bluetooth connectivity to a Multiplus for monitoring and control only. You can not configure settings or perform firmware updates using a VE.Bus Smart Dongle. That’s why we talked about the MK3-USB dongle above! Via the VictronConnect app, the VE.Bus Smart Dongle allows you to readily see an inverter/charger’s key stats as well as warnings or alarms. The VE.Bus Smart Dongle also allows you to control the input current limit and mode (Off, On aka Inverter/Charger, and Charger-only). These operator controls provide a way to replace a Digital Multi Control Panel with Bluetooth connectivity. The VE.Bus Smart Dongle is an optional device that can add Multiplus monitoring & operation in a system without a Cerbo. The VE.Bus Smart Dongle connects to a device with a VE.Bus cable that is not included. When do I need a VE.Direct Smart Dongle? The VE.Direct Bluetooth Smart Dongle adds Bluetooth connectivity to VE.Direct devices for monitoring only. Don’t confuse the VE.Bus Smart Dongle for VE.Bus devices such as a Multiplus with this one, which is for VE.Direct devices such as BMV-70x series battery monitors, Phoenix Inverters with VE.Direct port, and BlueSolar MPPT Solar Charge Controllers without Bluetooth. If you have a SmartSolar MPPT Solar Charge Controller like the ones in our store, those pretty blue boxes already have Bluetooth capability without the need for this extra dongle. Via the VictronConnect app, the VE.Direct Smart Dongle allows you to readily see a device’s key stats as well as warnings or alarms. The VE.Direct Smart Dongle is an optional device that can add remote monitoring to VE.Direct devices that lack Bluetooth connectivity. The VE.Direct Smart Dongle has an integral cable that plugs directly into a single device with a VE.Direct port. Wrap Up - Quick Selection Guide Here it is in a nutshell: Your device & goal What to buy Have a Cerbo GX? You likely don’t need a dongle Configuring or updating a MultiPlus MK3-USB and a VE.Bus cable Bluetooth monitoring for MultiPlus VE.Bus Smart Dongle and a VE.Bus cable Bluetooth for older VE.Direct devices VE.Direct Smart Dongle Remember to “match the port”. Use a VE.Bus dongle for Multiplus. Use a VE.Direct dongle for most other devices with a VE.Direct port. Frequently Asked Questions 1. What software do I need to connect to a dongle? All Victron dongles require the VictronConnect app. * Note that Apple iPhone/iPad doesn't support USB OTG, so Bluetooth connections work fine from an iDevice but the MK3-USB dongle requires either a Windows/Mac laptop or an Android device. 2. VictronConnect won’t connect - what should I try first? Troubleshoot common VictronConnect and Bluetooth issues in three steps. Make sure the Bluetooth is on in your phone’s system menu Move your phone very close to the device If you’re still not connecting, then 1) close VictronConnect 2) remove the device pairing from you phone’s Bluetooth system menu 3) open VictronConnect and pair with the device from within the VictronConnect Local screen. 3. Do I need to configure my Victron electrical system? Yes. Factory defaults are not correct for lithium-ion batteries and most camper van electrical systems. You need to configure the settings in all of your electrical devices, and you need the capability to update firmware when necessary. 4. How do I choose between a USB-A dongle and a USB-C dongle? The only difference between the USB-A dongle and the USB-C dongle is the connection to your laptop or phone. Select USB-A for the traditional USB connector, or select USB-C for more modern devices with only USB-C ports. There are also adapters available to readily switch between the two physical connectors. 5. What is the difference between VE.Bus and VE.Direct? VE.Bus and VE.Direct are both communication protocols, however they use different cables and work on different devices. VE.Bus units are typically high-power devices like Multiplus inverter/chargers. VE.Direct units are typically lower power devices such as DC-DC chargers and MPPT Charge Controllers. Additional Resources Victron Accessories product information Configuring a Multiplus using a MK3-USB dongle Troubleshooting VictronConnect
Learn more How To Configure Your Victron Electrical System Components Using VRM
The Victron ecosystem has very useful monitoring and configuration capabilities when a Cerbo is installed as part of your camper van electrical system. One of the benefits of purchasing a Victron system bundle from Vanlife Outfitters is your access to our expert tech support team. Victron's Remote Monitoring (VRM) allows us to see what your system is doing, and help you remotely troubleshoot or adjust device configuration settings. The Cerbo can connect to Wi-Fi and the internet, allowing remote access to view system data and edit configuration settings of connected devices. Settings and firmware updates can be managed for the Cerbo itself, most Victron inverters and battery chargers, all SmartSolar MPPT solar charge controllers and Victron Orion XS DC-DC controllers with VE.direct, all remotely. This gives an extra way to do device configuration & updates from one location, vs. the typical methods of bluetooth with the Victron Connect app, or an MK3-USB cable for Multiplus inverters. That one location is Victron’s remote monitoring portal, VRM, and it can be accessed from anywhere through the cloud. Since your camper van is typically mobile, it’s great that it can be accessible remotely. Requirements: Good Wi-Fi connection with the Cerbo to the internet. A Windows OS machine (or virtual machine) with Victron’s VEConfigure installed. TIP: You don’t need to have always-on internet in your rig. Many customers use the VRM at home or temporarily using a hotspot if needed. Your touch screen and system will continue to work with or without internet. The Victron system will store data when not connected then upload it when you’re back home. The Cerbo’s internal antenna is not meant for long range connections, and, it’s inside your metal box van...so a strong Wi-Fi signal may be necessary. The wireless network must be a simple SSID and password login. The Cerbo can not connect to networks where a captive login webpage requires other interaction. We highly recommend that you set up VRM following the steps below! Assuming your Cerbo is working and connected with the rest of your system, follow these steps to connect and set up VRM, and invite us to view your system. If you still need to turn on the Cerbo in the first place, and set it up for your camper van electrical system, here is a more detailed complete blog post. https://www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/configuring-a-victron-cerbo-gx-and-connecting-with-vrm Either way, now you should be able to view your system on VRM. On a web browser, go to https://vrm.victronenergy.com and click on Installations, and it should look something like this: ('Device List' and 'Remote Console' are highlighted for next steps.) Very good, you have VRM set up! Now we can talk about using it for remote configuration! Exciting! Using the VRM remotely from a web browser, or the Victron VRM app for Apple or Android, you can see data or change settings as if you were using the touch screen display locally. You can do this from far, far away, or you can use VRM in your camper van without needing the special MK3-USB cable that you forgot where you stashed. When VRM is connected to your system, the Remote Console view is the same as what you see locally on the touch screen. (Click 'Remote Console' from VRM Dashboard.) From this screen, you can view Notifications and Settings. (Click anywhere on the screen to show the lower toolbar icons, just like on the touchscreen in your van.) VRM Device list view, and firmware updates: (From the VRM dashboard, click 'Device List'.) The device list shows all connected devices. Click the ‘+’ at the right side to see info about each device (serial numbers, current firmware version, etc). The Firmware Update button takes you to a new screen with the current firmware and the latest available version for each device. The latest f/w should be used for starting up new systems, and sometimes firmware updates can solve certain problems on older systems. If your system is working fine and there’s no new feature that you want, then it is fine to stay with your current firmware version. This is the easiest way to update firmware for multiple devices. For a new system, use the latest firmware for every device. Read the messages carefully when updating firmware. Remote configuration of devices via VRM – Multiplus inverters: For Multiplus settings, a configuration file can be downloaded, edited locally with VEConfigure (windows OS only), then re-uploaded to the Multiplus. Using VRM, this can be done without a special MK3-USB cable, which is the other typical way to configure a Multiplus (locally, MK3-USB cable between the inverter and laptop). (Choose Device list, Remote VEConfigure.) A pulldown list shows your Multiplus in case there are more than one, then choose Download. The .rvsc configuration file with the current inverter settings will be downloaded to your local machine. You might make a copy of the original file at this point, because VEConfigure will overwrite it with your changes. Pre-step: install VEConfiguration tools from Victron: https://www.victronenergy.com/support-and-downloads/software Once VEConfigure is installed, you should be able to double click the downloaded .rvsc file and VEConfigure will be launched, showing the General settings tab. You can also open VEConfigure manually on your windows machine and select the file. This would be similar to plugging directly into the inverter with the MK3-USB cable. The windows VEConfigure program is used to view and modify the settings. (If you’re a Mac or Linux user, all this does work fine from windows running on a virtual machine, like VirtualBox). If you launched VEConfigure manually, Click ‘Port selection’, ‘Fake target from file’ and choose the previously downloaded .rvsc file. Then you should see the General settings tab as shown above. The existing settings from your config file populate in the various tabs of VEConfigure: General tab settings shown here are fine: 60Hz for North America, the default 30a shore power inlet current limit you may want to set at 11amps to avoid tripping 15a outlet circuits with continuous charging load. Don’t enable the battery monitor unless there is no other shunt in the system. Typically, you want the shunt to be the primary measurement of battery SOC, not the multiplus. Default values on the Grid tab should also be fine: (Grid code: none, accept wide freq range) Settings on the Inverter tab are important! Typically the shutdown voltages should be set slightly higher than where the battery BMS would disconnect. Check your battery mfg recommended values, and maybe increase by .3 volts to avoid hitting the BMS disconnect threshold. The inverter should stop discharging, before the battery is totally empty, to avoid manual intervention to restart the system. For a 12v LFP system, here are reasonable settings: (generally multiply by 2 or 4 for 24v or 48v systems, but check your battery manual for specific numbers) Low shutdown 10.4-10.7 (if under load, voltage can be lower at the Multiplus) Low restart 12.1, Low pre-alarm 12.4 (Red shows values that you have changed) Settings on the Charger tab are important! First select Battery type. Likely you have LFP batteries. Then adjust the Absorption voltage, Float voltage, absorption time according to your battery manufacturer’s recommendations. The charge current should be set appropriately for your battery bank size. Typically, with 2 or more LFP batteries, the batteries can handle more than the maximum charging output of the Multiplus 3000, so the default of 120a is good. The default settings on the Virtual switch, Assistants, Advanced tabs should be fine. Save your changes: Choose File, Exit to quit VEConfigure, and it will ask before saving the changes (to the original file name, you don't get to change the name here). Now your file is ready to upload back to the Multiplus via VRM. Upload your changes to the Multiplus, via VRM: Back in the VRM Portal device list, under the Remote VEConfigure option, select the Upload button. Choose the .rvsc file you just modified, and click ‘OK’. The modified .rvsc configuration file will get uploaded to the Cerbo, which will update and restart the Multiplus inverter. Voila! You have configured your inverter settings, remotely! Remote configuration of other devices via VRM with Victron Connect: Typically the Victron Connect app is used on a phone or tablet to configure devices locally, communicating over bluetooth. Once VRM is set up with the Cerbo, any devices that are connected via VE.Direct or VE.Bus can be configured remotely, running Victron Connect on a Windows PC. (Pre-step: Install the VictronConnect Windows program from here: https://www.victronenergy.com/support-and-downloads/software ) Open Victron Connect on your Windows PC. Select the VRM tab on the right, and click on your Cerbo system. On the left, it shows your Cerbo (with a link to your VRM dashboard), and on the right, you’ll see all the other devices on your system. Click any of these devices on the right, and Victron Connect shows the current status and settings under the upper right gear icon, as if you were connected via bluetooth. But you’re magically far, far away! Just click the settings you’d like to change, and click ‘OK’, presto. This works for all smart Victron devices which connect to the Cerbo via VE.Bus or VE.Direct ports. The Multiplus shows up in the device list also, and you can see status, but the configuration settings can not be changed through VictronConnect/VRM. Not all Orion DCDC or solar MPPT devices have VE.Direct ports, so those are limited to configuration locally via bluetooth. Example showing Smartshunt: Alternatively, you can open VictronConnect from the VRM web portal Device List. There are two ways to access VictronConnect from the Device List: Click the Blue oval highlighted button ‘Open in VictronConnect’. This will open and display the system & all devices as described above. Red highlighted buttons: Click one of the Device List ‘+’ tabs, to see more info about that device, (the MPPT Solar Charger is selected below). Then an ‘Open in VictronConnect’ button shows at the bottom. Click that button and VictronConnect opens for just that particular device. So, that’s it. Amazing technology! You can check on your van from far away, and now you can make changes if needed. If you want to help out a friend with their Victron system, now you can do it remotely and come off like a genius. If you purchased your electrical equipment from us (thanks!), you can take advantage of our world-class support including adding service@vanlifeoutfitters.com to your VRM account so that we can help you troubleshoot remotely if needed. Again, that’s one of the benefits of purchasing a Victron system bundle from Vanlife Outfitters; your access to our expert tech support team.
Learn more How To Set Up Remote Monitoring For Your Victron Electrical System
How to set up Victron's Remote Monitoring for your van electrical system. How to invite Vanlife Outfitters to view and assist you with configuring or troubleshooting.
Learn more Troubleshooting Tips: Nations + Wakespeed Secondary Alternator No/Low Power
If your Nations + Wakespeed secondary alternator kit isn’t charging your camper van battery bank, use this post to diagnose wiring, LED states, CAN-bus settings, DVCC behavior, and RPM & temperature throttling. Symptom Likely Cause Quick Fix WS500 LED not blinking yellow/orange or not showing up in Cerbo Devices list Improper CAN bus configuration Check CAN bus wiring (including terminators) and set Cerbo CAN bus to 250 kbit/s. Engine needs to be running No power from alternator Improper wiring, especially Feature-In “white wire” Set BMS relay to Alternator ATC mode Check all wiring versus example wiring diagram Less power from alternator than expected Derating is protecting batteries or alternator Retest with low battery State of Charge Make sure electronics and alternator are appropriately cooled Alternator powering correctly but Cerbo shows “--W” or incorrect DC Load power WS500 configuration issue Ensure that firmware is up to date Check alternator shunt wiring Make sure WS500 Ignore the Local Current Sensor? setting is Off We’re fortunate to have installed, commissioned and supported a ton of Nations + Wakespeed secondary alternator kits in our vans and customer’s rigs. What that really means is that we have experience from making a ton of simple mistakes when powering up these systems. One tricky aspect of the secondary alternator kits is that everything needs to be done correctly, otherwise no power may come out of the alternator. And well, massive power from the alternator is kind of the point. We recently posted a two-part blog series on Powering Up Your Camper Van For The First Time. Part I discusses steps to think about before or during your build, and Part II focuses on the steps to energize & configure your mobile power system. Think of this post as a special addendum for secondary alternator kit power on & troubleshooting, where we touch on common mistakes and quick fixes. Whether your system is 12 V, 24 V, or 48 V, these tips should help you. These tips focus on supported Wakespeed configurations such as Victron NG (or Smart) batteries, and like Part I says…we assume that you’ve double checked your wiring versus our example wiring diagrams. What to check first (30 second triage) Make sure that your BMS relay is set to Alternator ATC (allow-to-charge) mode. This setting can be done via Bluetooth using VictronConnect to your BMS. Without the relay mode configured, your Feature-In wiring isn’t complete. Triple check the wiring connections from the BMS to the Feature-In wire on the Wakespeed harness. If your wiring is wrong, the Wakespeed may be inhibited. Measure the Feature-In wire on the harness and you should see your system voltage when the system is running. Is your Wakespeed LED blinking a steady yellow/orange? If not, your Wakespeed is not in Sync mode to your BMS. Here’s the Wakespeed guide. Check your CAN bus connections and Victron Cerbo CAN settings. Both your BMS and your Wakespeed must be connected to the same CAN bus at the Cerbo. The CAN terminator (black for Wakespeed) is required on the unused Wakespeed port. Make sure that the appropriate Cerbo CAN bus is configured for VE.CAN & CAN-bus BMS (250 kbit/s). If these settings are correct, your Wakespeed will be visible on your Cerbo Devices list when your engine is running. Wakespeed WS500 & WS500 Pro configuration You really should understand your Wakespeed configuration, which is touched on in one of our secondary alternator system posts. With the newer WS500 Pro, either an Android or IOS device can be used. If you’re a customer with an original WS500, then it’s highly suggested to use a low-cost Android tablet for a USB OTG (On-The-Go) connection to the Wakespeed. Using the Wakespeed app, here are some quick checks: Is your firmware up to date? Wakespeed-Victron integration and features have improved over time. The Wakespeed guide linked above notes the minimum firmware version required, but we highly recommend updating both your Cerbo and Wakespeed devices to the latest revision. Make sure that DVCC is enabled on the Wakespeed. Using the Wakespeed app to Configure, in the System tab check that Support Victron DVCC? is ‘On’. Victron Cerbo: What “-- W” or negative numbers mean for alternator power Is your Cerbo reporting “-- W” for alternator power even though you’re seeing charging power into your batteries? Make sure that Ignore the Local Current Sensor? is ‘Off’ under Advanced Options in your Wakespeed app in the System tab. You’ll need to enable Expert Mode in the app settings, but you’ll need to act like an expert and follow Wakespeed’s guidance - don’t touch any of the red configuration fields unless you’ve read the manual and know what you’re doing! Why set Ignore the Local Current Sensor? to ‘Off’? Because two negatives make a positive in this case. You installed a current shunt to measure alternator power, so don’t ignore the current sensor and you’ll be seeing alternator power on your Cerbo! Is your Cerbo reporting negative power from the alternator? Check your gray & purple wires on the Wakespeed harness, and check the inline fuses too. The purple wire connects to the shunt on the alternator side, while the gray wire connects to the shunt on the battery side. If those wires are reversed, your regulator is reading the current backwards. You can either swap those wires physically or use the Wakespeed app to fix it - that’s why there’s a Is shunt backwards? setting in the System tab. Are you getting throttled? More tips for limited output power Make sure that Wakespeed DIP switch 8 hasn’t been inadvertently set to On, which forces the regulator into Small Alternator mode which has reduced power. Are your batteries already charged? If your Victron batteries have a State of Charge above the SoC Threshold in the BMS, then the algorithm controlling charging may be throttling charging power and optimizing your battery lifecycle performance. Don’t fret! Let your battery bank discharge, then try again to see if you’re getting the alternator charging power you expect. Don’t forget that secondary alternator performance is proportional to engine RPMs. Especially if you have 24 V or 48 V secondary alternators with limited idle power expectations, give the engine some gas before testing your output power. Also don’t forget that the Wakespeed Engine Warmup Delay needs at least 30 seconds, so give it some time and then some RPMs! Alternator temperature also impacts charging power. The Wakespeed will automatically reduce field drive and derate the alternator as temperatures increase, which leads to reduced power. You can check the alternator temperature from your Cerbo under Devices. Reduced power may be an expected situation to preserve the lifespan of your alternator! Safety reminder: Your power distribution may be energized by any of your charging sources, not just your secondary alternator. Ensure that all charging sources are disabled before conducting maintenance such as checking wiring. Use caution near hot items such as the alternator or electronics, and adhere to safety warnings such as spinning belts in the engine compartment. Got power now? Yay! If not, then bummer. But don’t worry, feel free to reach out to us because we’re here to help. Our tech support team will happily talk to you about the ways we’ve messed up building our systems. But then we’ll ask for pictures of your system, want you to get connected to VRM, and probably have you start working on a log file. You’ll be happily driving around recharging your system with massive power in no time! FAQ: Getting Power From Your Secondary Alternator System 1. What is the most common mistake in powering on my secondary alternator?Feature-In wiring is the most common issue leading to no power from a secondary alternator system. Check the ‘white wire’ wiring and make sure your BMS relay is set to Alternator ATC mode. 2. How do I connect to my Wakespeed regulator?WS500 Pro users can use Bluetooth to connect with the Wakespeed Configuration and Monitoring Utility App (IOS or Android). WS500 users require a physical USB connection using the App (Android) or software on a Windows PC. A low-cost Android tablet is highly recommended! 3. What are the Wakespeed LED blink codes?The Wakespeed regulator has a multi-colored LED. Somewhat surprisingly, a blinking yellow/orange LED is the desired blink code. Green LEDs means that your Wakespeed is not in Sync with your Victron Cerbo - check your CAN wiring and Cerbo CAN bus configuration. Red flashes are Error/Advisory codes - use the Wakespeed manual to identify the blink code and start troubleshooting. 4. Why am I getting reduced power from my Nations + Wakespeed system?Typical reasons to get some, but not full, power from your secondary alternator system are temperature derating, high State of Charge (SoC) on your batteries, and incorrect expectations of idle power. 5. Why does my Cerbo show “--W” for alternator power?The system needs an alternator shunt to measure alternator power, so that’s one reason we highly recommend wiring in a shunt. To see the shunt measurements on your Cerbo, make sure that Ignore the Local Current Sensor? is configured to ‘Off’ using the Wakespeed app. Related Resources Powering Up Your Camper Van Electrical System The First Time!: Part I and Part II Secondary Alternator System Blogs and Diagrams: 12 Volts, 24 Volts, and 48 Volts Nations + Wakespeed Secondary Alternator Kit and Electrical System Bundle Wakespeed basic configuration video
Learn more Kick The Tires And Light The Fires: Turning On Your Camper Van Electrical System For The First Time! Part 2
If you’re building a camper van electrical system, or planning your vanlife power setup, the first power-up is a big milestone. This blog is Part II of a two-part series on powering up your camper van electrical system for the first time. Part I discusses steps to think about before or during your build, and Part II focuses on the steps to energize & configure your mobile power system. To be honest, planning for & commissioning your electrical system is a process, so if you missed Part I, give it a read first before diving in here. This blog hopes to provide some of the why to go along with the what when commissioning your electrical system. Your build is progressing, and you're almost ready to Turn. It. On. Does it feel a bit daunting? Turning your electrical system on for the first time can be as exciting as putting that first hole in your new rig. How many times did you measure before you cut? Working methodically to power your system on is the same idea! It's going to be okay, and here is a checklist for getting your system up and running. Every system is different, and you can find a bunch of different how-tos on the interwebs. Some manufacturers provide commissioning steps in their manuals too, as an example this procedure is a good list even if you don't have a Victron BMS. You did read the manuals for your equipment, right? Here’s our take on a solid approach to getting your electrical system up and running. Double check At long last, can we finally get on with the steps? Yes, of course, as long as you consider checking your connections as part of the turn up sequence. Incorrect wiring can cause damage. This section is called double check, but we really mean triple check. Step 1 - Test Your Lugs, Terminals & Ferrules Check that your lugs and ferrules are done properly. You are not trying to treat those connections with "kid gloves" either. If you can yank on a lug and it comes off, that's not good! You're relying on those connections to handle high currents and keep you safe. Lugs, ferrules and terminals should be secure and difficult if not impossible to remove with a simple pull. Let’s briefly touch on ferrules too, which can be new or difficult for some customers. Since tinned, stranded wire from brands like Ancor is preferred for environmental & vibration tolerance (e.g. your safety!) in mobile power systems, wire ends for screw terminal connections should use a ferrule. Generally, a hex ratcheting ferrule tool is preferred, as the round shape formed after the crimp fits best in most screw & spring clamp terminals. In some cases, for instance with the Orion XS DC-DC chargers using the recommended 6 AWG wire in our free example wiring diagrams, only a hex crimped ferrule will fit (and a square crimped ferrule will not due to the resulting shape). The Victron Multiplus II inverter/charger AC terminal blocks require 18 mm bootlace ferrules that are longer than what is provided in most ferrule kits, and using shorter ferrules may cause the terminal block spring clamps to come loose. Do yourself a favor and use the correct ferrules, even if you need to go replace a few connections before powering on your system. Part of double checking can include learning that a few minor changes can go a long way to improving the safety and reliability of your system. Step 2 - Properly Tighten Your Connections Not only do your connectors need to be done properly, but those connections must be tightened properly. Properly means that you're not a tire jockey tightening nuts with your air wrench! Whether it's Victron, Blue Sea, or any other manufacturer, your device manual provides torque specifications for the connections. So, please use a torque wrench! Step 3 - Review Every Connection in Your Wiring Diagram Review your wiring diagram. Review our complete set of example wiring diagrams. Depending on your system, you may use sections from more than one diagram. We recommend printing out your diagram(s), then highlight each wire & connection as you go through the double check on your system. While you're in the diagram, you did note all of the case & chassis case grounds, right? These safety connections are not optional. Check your MPPT case ground, your Multiplus PE connection, and of course your vehicle chassis ground connection. Step 4 - Check Your Fuses & Breakers Are all your fuses and safety devices installed? Remember that a fuse is sized to protect the wire. Double check that the correct fuse rating is installed in every location. Check your circuit breaker sizes too, and since we're almost ready to turn things on, go ahead and flip those breakers to the off position for now. Here's a quick tip for the Lynx Distributor: if you're not using every Mega fuse position in the Distributor, the LED will remain orange and not a happy green. With a Lynx Shunt or Lynx BMS connected to a Lynx Distributor, an empty Mega fuse slot will show up as an alarm because a blown fuse (i.e. an open fuse) looks no different than a missing fuse. We recommend mounting spare fuses in your unused Mega fuse slots. Hopefully you'll never need them, but maybe you'll be glad to have one handy in the future. Step 5 - Test Wiring with a Multimeter Use a multimeter to triple check those connections. Just to be clear, we're doing all of these checks before the system is energized! Check each load branch wiring for no "dead shorts", where the power and ground wires should show resistance and not be shorted together. Same for the AC wiring, where the hot and neutral should not be shorted. (Keep in mind that a Multiplus inverter/charger contains a ground relay that automatically connects neutral to the chassis ground if no AC input is supplied, so those AC wires may read as shorted.) Step 6 - Wrap It Up As you are wrapping up your double checks, it’s a good time to cover any exposed terminals to prevent damage from any accidental tool drop. Dress your cables with cable ties to minimize vibration and torque on equipment connections. Checklist for your wires and safety devices Test & inspect that you properly crimped your lugs, terminals, and ferrules Check that your connections are torqued to manufacturer specifications Review your wiring diagram and mark off that all wiring connections are as intended Check that your fuses & breakers are sized properly Test wiring for shorts & opens using a multimeter Install cable housings and cover any exposed terminals Finally! This is the moment where it all comes together. Start will all equipment switches turned off. Make sure the master battery switch or contactor in your BMS is off. If needed, temporarily remove fuses to keep sources and loads un-powered. Make sure your Multiplus inverter/charger switch is in the off position. As a reminder from Part I, we’re presuming that your batteries are fully charged before reaching this step. Work methodically! If something doesn't look right as you go through the steps, stop and assess. It's okay to power down, make a fix, and start over. And if you listened to our guidance for working on a testbed prior to a full camper van system, do as many steps as feasible...then get back to testing & building that rig! Here is our recommended turn-on procedure: 1) If your batteries have an on/off switch, go ahead and turn them on. If your system has a BMV-712, check your battery bank voltage now. Also check your battery using the manufacturer’s app if it has Bluetooth support. You’re looking to confirm that the batteries have no alarms and show very similar voltage readings. This tells you that your battery bank is successfully connected and ready to serve as an energy source for your system. 2) Turn the master switch or contactor on. Use a multimeter and check the voltage on your Lynx Distributor, it should (nearly) match your charged battery voltage. Use the battery and/or BMS app to check the battery voltage, current (should be a low number), and status. If you haven't already, make sure your battery BMS firmware is up to date. Some customers with a Victron BMS may run into a snag here and notice a pre-charge error. The BMS can be sensitive to capacitance and loads, particularly in complex systems with a Multiplus inverter/charger, a secondary alternator, or many other connections on the Lynx Distributor. If you get a pre-charge error, first check for real problems such as a short or incorrect connection on the distribution. If the connections are okay, you may need a simple workaround to sidestep the pre-charge error. One method is to enable one of your charging sources (see Step 4) to power-on the distribution side of the BMS before enabling the BMS contactor. This workaround pre-charges the distribution with a source other than the batteries through the BMS, therefore the BMS will correctly finish its turn-on sequence with no errors. Most customers can leave their system in on or standby modes after the commissioning steps are complete, so the pre-charge workaround is just a temporary annoyance. 3) If you have a Cerbo GX, it should be powered-up through your distribution. On your touch screen or app, check your Devices list and make sure your battery monitor is reading properly. This confirms that your shunt connection (either VE.Direct to a SmartShunt or CAN to a BMS) is correctly done. If your batteries have "Victron communications", also check your Cerbo Devices list to verify that your battery(ies) are present. You may need to change the CAN bus profile setting in your Cerbo GX to match your batteries and get Victron communications established. 3plus) Give your Cerbo GX some internet access! This step helps provide troubleshooting information for all the subsequent steps and makes it easy for you (and easy for us to help you). Ultimately, get access to your electrical system using the VRM as discussed in this blog. Using the touchscreen, connect to a WiFi network and set up the VRM. Make sure your Cerbo has the latest firmware. 4) Turn on charging sources one at a time. The order of charging sources to enable is not critical, but we suggest prioritizing the Multiplus inverter/charger, solar, DC-DC charger(s), then the secondary alternator kit. For each charging source, use the following steps: Check your battery monitor. Charging current should increase (and be a positive value) when the charging source is on. Check your Cerbo Devices list to make sure the device is communicating with your system. Update the firmware. Check and/or update the configuration to match manufacturer specifications. Periodically check your cables by hand or with a thermal imager. When charging heavily, some cables may be warm to the touch but not crazy hot. After checking one charging source, turn that source off and iterate on a different charging source. Keep it simple and methodical to safely check each part of your system. Once you've individually checked out each charging source, then you're ready to turn on multiple charging sources. There are some things to watch out for when turning on your charging sources. Apply battery power and turn on your Multiplus before connecting shore power. Here are some tips for programming your Multiplus. Charger settings: The devices do not come preconfigured for lithium batteries, so change that charge profile! Inverter settings: We recommend that the low voltage shutdown thresholds are set slightly higher than your BMS low voltage disconnect value. The inverter should turn off before completely discharging the battery bank, which could turn off your entire system. General settings: The default AC input current limit is 50 Amps, which is too high for most DIY garages & driveways using a standard 15 Amp household receptacle. Set that current limit before applying shore power, and let's not pop your circuit breaker or potentially damage your shiny new Multiplus, please?! We touched on solar in this blog. Your Victron MPPT PV (photovoltaic) voltage must be 5 Volts higher than your battery voltage for a charge cycle to start. Check that your alternator-based charging sources turn off when the engine is off but turn on when the engine is on. You want to ensure that your camper van starter batteries are not depleted by leaving a DC-DC charger on with the engine off. Our Victron & Sterling DC-DC chargers can be configured to detect voltages, detect vibration, and/or utilize external "remote" on/off connections to keep your van's two battery systems properly isolated. VictronConnect tip: After connecting to a MPPT or DC-DC converter via Bluetooth using the VictronConnect app, if your device is powered on but in the off state (i.e. not charging), you will see a Why is the charger off? line on the status page. Victron tells you the reason your device isn't charging, and that can be pretty handy! Even with your battery switch or BMS contactor open, any charging source that is enabled will energize your Lynx Distributor. Why? Because your charging sources and your loads are interconnected on your distributor. Your master battery switch or BMS contactor separates energy stored in your battery bank from the distributor but does not disconnect the other sources of power. Be cautious while testing or doing maintenance, and make sure that all batteries and charge sources are off when required. DVCC tip: DVCC is an algorithm running in your Cerbo that intelligently coordinates your smart charging sources to provide only the charging current desired by your batteries & BMS. It's not quite magic, but testing with DVCC enabled can yield confusing results. Typically, if your batteries are mostly full (above the SoC threshold, State of Charge in your battery monitor), then your charging source(s) may be throttled to optimize battery lifecycles. Don't panic if your DC-DC charger doesn't put out a full 50 Amps in that case. Another source of throttling is heat, so testing mid-summer in high ambient temperatures may limit charging performance. You may need to move on to the next step, enabling loads to discharge your battery bank with charging sources off, then return to re-examine your charging performance with a lower battery SoC. Need troubleshooting help? Don’t forget the cutting it in half approach as discussed in Part I. Our tech support team has tons of vanlife experience, so we’re here to help too. 5) Turn on loads one by one. Work through your checklist of all AC and DC loads. For each load, check with a voltmeter and look at your battery monitor or touch screen display. You should see an appropriate increase in AC or DC Wattage for each load. If your load reporting looks incorrect, double check your cabling, especially the chassis ground. Only the battery cables should be on the Battery Minus terminal of your BMS & shunt, and every other connection (like chassis ground!) should be on the distributor side. As with your charging sources, inspect your distribution and load cables & connections for excessive heat. 6) Check your battery monitor (i.e. shunt). Now that you can comfortably charge and discharge your batteries, make sure that your battery monitor is properly configured. In Victron-speak, you want to allow a successful synchronization so that the battery monitor correctly reports your SoC. After the first power up, the battery monitor may not show the correct SOC. To reach a synchronization (which can be checked using the VictronConnect app under History), first discharge the batteries to around 50% SoC using your loads, then turn off your loads and charge the batteries to 100% using a charging source (such as shore power which typically provides the fastest charging). Allow your system to complete a full lithium charging profile, transitioning from absorption (higher, constant current) to float (low current, constant voltage). If your battery monitor reports 100% SoC and shows a synchronization event, your battery monitor is properly configured and will provide correct SoC reporting. This step also ensures that any paralleled batteries in your battery bank are balanced, promoting equal sharing of the charging sources and loads from your batteries to prolong battery lifecycles. 7) Use your system and enjoy! Take advantage of the VictronConnect app and VRM to monitor your system performance. While this blog is about turning on your system for the first time, many customers are already thinking ahead about maintenance & battery storage. Self-discharge of lithium batteries is quite low, so typically we recommend that you don’t need to completely turn off your system when not in use. If you have internet access and are using the VRM, then leaving your system on and idle is quite helpful for remotely checking in on your rig. You may find it handy to turn your Multiplus inverter/charger to Charger mode, which disables the inverter and saves you the 20-30 Watts of idle power from being constantly consumed while you’re not using your system. To maximize your battery lifecycles, it’s recommended that lithium batteries are stored between 50%-70% SoC. Most importantly, lithium batteries have improved lifecycles when not exposed to high currents near 100% SoC. In other words, don’t leave your system plugged into a charging source constantly with your batteries at 100% SoC. If you have a system with Victron NG or Smart batteries with DVCC enabled, the good news is that your system is automatically being optimized and you don’t need to take any special storage precautions. Victron automatically keeps the SoC optimized while allowing charging to 100% once per month, which keeps the battery cells balanced. For more basic or value battery-based systems, you may need to be a little more mindful about lithium battery storage. You may wish to manually enable/disable charging sources to manage your battery SoC. If you can store your electrical system with shore power, an alternative is to adjust your configuration profile to a lower absorption voltage that will limit charging to around 70%. Don’t forget that you need to charge up to 100% every month or so to keep those battery cells balanced. Change your system configuration into normal mode to allow charging up to 100%, then return to a storage mode configuration until you’re ready to use that rig. Don’t forget to change back to normal mode to get the most performance out of your electrical system while you’re on that trip! Super-condensed power-on checklist Start will all loads and charging sources off Pre-charge your batteries and make parallel connections before turning batteries or battery switch on At each step of your power-on, use your device’s Bluetooth app and a multimeter to check status & power. Also check for excessive cable heating Use your battery monitor to check battery voltage, status, and current Update firmware on each device as you go If applicable, use your Cerbo to check that device communications are established. Set up your Cerbo VRM for remote monitoring and troubleshooting Turn on charging sources one at a time. Test each charging source by itself before using multiple charging sources together Turn on loads one at a time After checking your charging sources and loads, take your system through several discharge then charge cycles to balance your batteries and synchronize your battery monitor Don’t forget that storing & maintaining your batteries should be done at a lower State of Charge than your typical 100% pre-trip SoC Summary Successfully powering up your camper van electrical system for the first time is all about being methodical. There are four major steps in planning for & commissioning your system: Prepare your batteries Get familiar with your system with bench testing & incremental building Double check your wiring and connections Power up your batteries, charging sources, and loads in an orderly fashion, checking for voltage & heat at each step. Configure each device as you go. FAQ: Commissioning & Configuring Your Camper Van Electrical System What should I check before powering up my electrical system?Inspect every lug and ferrule, check torque specs, confirm correct fuse ratings, and use a multimeter to ensure there are no shorts between positive and negative wires. How do I safely turn on my camper van electrical system for the first time?Start with all switches off. Confirm battery charge and all connections before powering up. Power on your batteries then the master switch. Verify voltage before enabling charging sources or loads. How do I configure my Victron Multiplus inverter/charger for lithium batteries?Use the Victron VEConfigure software to change the charge profile to lithium, set inverter low-voltage shutdown slightly above your BMS cutoff, and reduce the AC input current limit to suit your shore-power source. What recommended order should I turn on my charging sources?Start with the Multiplus inverter/charger, then solar MPPT, DC-DC chargers, and finally any secondary alternator kit. Test one at a time before enabling them together. Why is my Victron BMS showing a pre-charge error?This can happen when capacitance or load prevents proper pre-charge. First check that there are no shorts on your Lynx Distributor. Enable one charging source to energize the distribution side before closing the BMS contactor, then retry. How do I synchronize my Victron battery monitor (BMV-712 / SmartShunt / Lynx Shunt / BMS)?Make sure to use a lithium-ion charging profile on your charger. Discharge batteries to ~50% SoC, then fully recharge until absorption transitions to float. Once the monitor shows 100% SoC and logs a “synchronization” event, calibration is complete. This can take some time, so be patient. How should I store lithium batteries in my camper van? Keep between 50–70 % SoC, avoid continuous charging at 100 %, and store in moderate temperatures. Systems with DVCC or Victron Smart / NG BMS manage this automatically.
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