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The 10 Most Common Camper Van Build Questions (and the One That Really Matters)

Hey there, Mike here. I’ve been at Vanlife Outfitters for a few years now, helping folks with tech support, orders, and customer service. In that time, I’ve learned one thing for sure: New vanlifers almost always start with the same handful of questions. Let’s be honest, most of us don’t read the manuals. I get it! Van builds can be super technical, and sometimes it’s easier to just call a human and get a straight answer. People want reassurance from someone who’s been there — and that’s where I come in. I’m a real vanlifer who can help you figure things out. So, here are the 10 questions I hear almost every single day… plus the one question that actually matters most. 1. “Do you sell ?” Short answer: If it’s on our website, yes. If we don’t carry the exact thing you’re asking about, I’ll point you to a solid alternative that’ll get the job done. Our store only includes products we would put in our vans 2. I want a camper van electrical system. What do I need? How much will it cost?” This is the million-dollar (okay, maybe multi-thousand-dollar) question. The first step is figuring out what you want to power — lights and a fan? Or an induction cooktop, big fridge, and rooftop A/C? The next step is sizing your battery bank, then adding the right charging sources (solar, alternator, shore power). Think of it like building a puzzle — all the pieces need to fit. The cost varies a lot, but starting with a load calculation will save you from overbuying or, worse, under-building. “Sizing Your Electrical Systems & Load Calculation” 3. “How much solar do I need for my van?” Solar is the most romantic part of a van build to me — those panels on the roof feel like free energy. But here’s the deal: Solar should recharge your batteries, not be your only power source. If you’re parked in cloudy Oregon for a week, solar alone ain’t gonna cut it. Most folks need a combo including solar + alternator charging (when you drive) + shore power (when you plug in). A balanced system means you’re never left sweating in the dark. “How to Choose Solar Panels for Your Camper Van” 4. “How many batteries do I need to run a rooftop A/C?” The rule of thumb I recommend is to include at least a 400Ah lithium battery bank. But the real answer depends on your van: Which A/C unit you’ve got, how often you’ll run it, and how you’ll recharge. Also consider your travel style. Cruising through Arizona in July? You’ll use way more juice than someone camping in the Pacific Northwest. Batteries are heavy and expensive, so right-sizing matters. “Sizing Your Electrical Systems & Load Calculation” 5. “What size water tank should I get for my camper van?” Start with how often you’ll refill and what you’ll use water for — sink, shower, cooking, drinking. Here’s the tip most people miss: Water adds weight. A 30-gallon tank weighs about 250 pounds when full. That affects handling, braking, and even fuel economy. Many weekend warriors do great with 10–20 gallons, while full-timers often go 30–40. 6. “What size fridge do I need for my van?” This isn’t just about cubic feet. It’s about lifestyle. My response to this question is usually, “Well, how much do you eat??” A couple who eats out a lot may only need a small 12V fridge. A family of four on the road will want something much bigger. Also, think about energy use. Bigger fridges pull more power, so your electrical system has to keep up. Plan your fridge in tandem with your battery bank, not after. Our favorite van refrigerators 7. “Do I need a shower and toilet in my van?” Ah, the classic vanlife debate. Showers and toilets eat up space and add complexity. But for some folks, they’re non-negotiable. There are middle-ground solutions. Portable showers, gym memberships, campground facilities, composting or cassette toilets. You don’t have to commit to a full bathroom if it doesn’t fit your build. Most importantly, you should rent or borrow a few vans to try out for a week or two and see for yourself what works best for you. If you do want a toilet, here are some we can recommend 8. “Why does this cost so much?” Because you’re basically building a tiny, off-grid house on wheels. Quality components — lithium batteries, efficient fridges, solid plumbing — aren’t cheap. But here’s the upside: Good gear pays off. Lithium batteries last 10+ years, solar panels can crank for decades, and quality plumbing means fewer leaks. Cut corners and you’ll end up redoing work (and spending more) down the road. 9. “Where should I put my rooftop A/C?” Comfort is king here. I don’t like cold air blasting on me while I sleep, so I put my A/C mid-van with a fan over the bed. Where will you want that chilled A/C air blowing? Also think about balance. Heavy rooftop units affect your van’s weight distribution and center of gravity. Placing it too far forward or backward can make a difference in how the van drives. Our favorite air conditioning units 10. “Can you just put together everything I need and send me a list?” I can, but only after we’ve talked through all the above. Otherwise, you’ll end up with a list that doesn’t match your actual travel style. That said, once we know your needs, we can build you a parts list or kit that’ll save hours of shopping and second-guessing. It’s about matching your van to your life. Reach out, and we can work through it with you: support@vanlifeoutfitters.com The Real Question: “How Do You Plan to Use Your Van?” All those questions above? They boil down to this: How are you going to use the van? Are you a weekend warrior hitting campgrounds with hookups? Planning to boondock off-grid for days at a time? Driving cross-country or parking in one spot for weeks? Will you be traveling with others? Your answer shapes everything — your electrical system, solar, water setup, even whether a shower makes sense. Asking yourself this question is just as important as asking me. And I highly recommend spending as much time camping in other vans so you can figure out what you will want in yours. Final Thoughts You’re not alone — everyone starts with these questions. My best advice? Don’t rush. Do the research, ask questions, and really think about how you want to live in your van. The more you figure out now, the smoother (and more fun) your adventures will be later. And when you’re ready, Vanlife Outfitters has road-tested gear, helpful guides, and real humans (like me) to get you rolling. Happy vannin’, Mike

Getting The Most Out Of Your Camper Van Air Conditioner

HELP Your Air Conditioner help YOU! In this video, we discuss camper van air conditioners and how to make sure you’re using them properly. We’ve sold A LOT of air conditioners and we even have them in our vans too, so we know a thing or two about cooling down a camper van! We’ve seen people make a lot of mistakes when running their air conditioners, so we thought it might be a good idea to make a video sharing the tips and tricks we use to get our air conditioners to cool our van effectively and efficiently. Air Conditioner Comparison Matrix: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/… A few of our favorite Air Conditioners: Mabru RV12000 (12v): https://www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/sto… Mabru RV12000 (Installation Blog) https://www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/ins… Nomadic Innovations X2 (12v): https://www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/sto… Nomadic Innovations X3 (12v): https://www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/sto… Dometic RTX2000 (12v): https://www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/sto… Check Out All Our Air Conditioners: https://www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/cat…

How to Choose the Right Roof Rack for Your Camper Van

Interior Shower or No Interior Shower?  An Experienced Vanlifer's Opinion

I've Built Over 15 Vans...Here's What I've Learned

I've Built Over 15 Vans…Here's What I've Learned: Video Presentation ** READ THIS BEFORE YOU DESIGN YOUR CAMPER VAN ** This blog post contains everything I changed or would have changed after 3 years on the road in my first van. If you would like to view this post as a video presentation please see the video above. One of the most difficult parts of a van build is figuring out the right floor plan and fitting everything you want into that floorplan. A big mistake a lot of people make is thinking they can fit everything they have in their house or apartment into a camper van. There are going to be some sacrifices and things you’re going to need to go without. The problem is, if you haven’t ever lived in a van, how do you know what you’re going to REALLY need and what you can do without. There are going to be things you thought you needed that you actually don’t and there are going to be things that you didn’t even realize you needed. You can do dozens of hours of research and you can go down the Youtube rabbit hole, but everyone’s needs are different and you’re not going to be able to know what’s best for you until you actually live in a van for at least a year. I’ve lived in a van full time for three years and another two years part-time. I’ve participated in over 15 van builds and I own a company that specializes in the best vanlife products for DIY van builders. I consider myself an expert in camper van design and floor planning and I enjoy the challenge of maximizing the functionality of tiny spaces. In this blog post I simply want to share my experiences and thought process to give you food for thought so that you can take whatever nuggets that resonate with you and incorporate them into your van build. Full disclaimer: Not everyone is the same! Some people want a cook’s kitchen and some people barely cook at all. Some people want a luxurious bathroom and some people are happy showering outside, at the gym or a campground. After living in a van for five years here are some of the things that I want you to think about. Toilet The majority of people choose to do a composting toilet and that’s what I did on my first van. While I was happy with the toilet, I actually never (not a single time) went #2 in that toilet. I went #1 in it all the time, but honestly I could have just as easily just used a pee bottle. The urine tank on a composting toilet is annoying to empty every couple of days and spending over $1,000 on a glorified pee bottle felt like a waste of money to me. Sure it was nice to have the toilet for #2 in case of emergency, but I found myself using public bathrooms all the time (gym, campground, gas station, hotel lobby, grocery store, mother nature). For me the solution I came up with for my second van build was a cabinet with a toilet seat on top and inside the cabinet was a bucket and a urine diverter. The bucket was lined with a trash bag (for emergencies only) and it doubled as my cleaning supply storage since I never used the bucket. The urine diverter was routed into an 8 gallon blackwater holding tank under the van. I only needed to empty the tank every few weeks and it was as simple as finding a dump station and flipping a switch. Doing my toilet this way saved me about $900 and was way better for my needs because it provided an emergency #2 solution and eliminated the disgusting chore of emptying the urine tank on the composting toilet. Alert: I understand this option might sound ludicrous to some people and you might be saying to yourself “Hell NO” and that’s ok. This is what worked best for me and my preferences. Shower Showers are one of the hottest topics in the van build debate. Some people won’t do vanlife without them. People like me are perfectly happy taking an outdoor shower or showering at campgrounds, national gym chains like Planet Fitness or Anytime Fitness, truck stops, rec centers, the beach, friends houses, etc. The argument for a shower in your van is obvious. It’s easy, convenient and luxurious to have a shower in your van. You can literally shower whenever and wherever you want. A shower in your van also usually means a private place for your toilet which is an obvious added benefit. The argument against a shower is that they are limiting to the floorplan and visually make the van feel tight and cramped. Another drawback is that they use a ton of water which makes having to refill and dump your water more of a frequent occurrence. One thing I decided on my next build is to do a convertible shower, like this one, for those times when it’s too cold outside, or I’m too tired to go to the gym or an available shower is just too far away to bother. My plan is to shower outside, at the gym or at campgrounds whenever possible, but for that 20% of the time when those types of showers aren’t available I’ll have an indoor shower available to me. I’ll be combining the shower with this greywater tank, but more on that below. Shoe cabinet Many people don’t account for shoe storage on a van build and to me it is one of the most important things to think about when designing your van. In a house, you are usually walking over a lot of grass or concrete before you get to your front door, so your shoes are relatively clean by that point. In a van, you’re going to be doing a lot of outdoor activities and are usually walking over dirt, sand or mud (like at a trailhead) just before you step inside your van. The last thing you want to do is track all that stuff into your tiny sanctuary. The solution I incorporated into my second build was a rubber lined shoe drawer near my front door. I could sit in the doorway and take off my shoes and not worry about tracking all that nasty stuff in the van. In my first van I didn’t do that and I ended up having to stuff dirty hiking boots under my driver’s seat and in other places they didn’t belong. By just having a dedicated shoe drawer near your door, you will save yourself a lot of time cleaning and a lot of stress of figuring out where to put your dirty shoes. Charging drawer This one is all about reminding you that your home on wheels is always moving. If you have a lot of devices that need to be charged then you can’t just leave them on the counter like you would in a house. There have been many (too many to count) times, especially when I was a vanlife rookie, that I forgot to put something away upon taking off on an adventure. As soon as I turned a corner, everything I left on the counter went flying. Cleaning up the ensuing mess is never fun and paying to replace damaged electronics is even less fun. The solution I came up with for this is a dedicated foam-lined charging drawer. Inside the drawer is a 12v and 110v outlet. You can charge your GoPro, Garmin, cell phone, DSLR batteries, Drone, portable charger, laptop, etc without ever having to worry. I also installed a locking latch on this drawer to make it extra difficult for would-be thieves to steal my goodies. Fridge at Eye Level I don’t like to think of myself as an old man, but bending over or squatting everytime I needed to get something out of the fridge or put away groceries had my lower back begging for mercy. After 3+ years of an undercounter fridge, I decided enough was enough. If you can work an eye level fridge into your floorplan I highly recommend it. It will make your life a whole lot easier and it provides the familiarity of a house refrigerator. You can get an undercounter fridge and mount it on top of a cabinet or you can get a tall fridge. Either way you’re going to love not having to bend over everytime you want a beer. **Also, I recommend getting a fridge with a decent size freezer like these. I like to boondock and having a large freezer means you have a way of keeping food fresher longer. Throw all bin/cabinet I planned and planned my first floor plan and believed I had thought of everything. I thought wrong. Even though I thought I had accounted for everything I forgot about my backpack. When you get back from a long hike you can’t just throw your backpack on the floor…it will be in the way. You can’t just throw your backpack on the ground, you’re going to want to sit down and relax after a long hike. The backpack is always in the way! My solution for this was to dedicate a cubby specifically for my backpack. You could also add a hook and hang it up, but my backpack is heavy and it would bang around when driving. I suppose I could hang it up and strap it down, but it’s much more convenient to throw it in a cubby/cabinet.. I suppose I could also put it in the garage after each hike, but there are supplies that I frequently want to get in my backpack. To make matters worse, if you’re like me, you might have two backpacks! One for hiking and one for the gym. I use the gym backpack for workout gear, shower supplies, a towel and change of clothes. Thankfully my cubby fits both backpacks. Mattress Don’t cheap out on your mattress. Living in a van can sometimes be uncomfortable. But that’s ok because you’re trading comfort for freedom. The one thing you should splurge on is a nice mattress so that you can have a little bit of luxury and wake up well-rested for your adventures. I like the look of the and functionality of a dinette bed combo, but to me it’s not practical for several reasons. First, you’re going to lose most of your garage storage in the dinette setup. Second, when I’m done with a long day of hiking or kayaking, the last thing I want to do is build my bed for the night. Third, if I’m driving a long haul and want to pull off for a nap, I just want to jump in bed as soon as possible. Last, you can’t convince me that seat cushions that double as a mattress are comfortable. They might be fine for a month, but after a few months, you just can’t beat a well made mattress. **Also I highly recommend installing your bed as low as reasonably possible. It’s nice to be able to sit up in bed and makes the area feel a lot less claustrophobic. Quick Hits: Bug Screens Bug screens are almost a must have. I didn’t have one in my first build and I definitely regretted not having one. I was limited to my tiny windows for ventilation and it would have been nice to open my sliding door in some situations. Fortunately, Vanlife Outfitters carries some really good looking bug screens that are fairly easy to install and customized for Sprinter, Transit or Promaster. Quick Hits: Hot sauce/spice rack If you cook a lot, it’s really nice to be able to access all your spices and sauces rather than digging into a cabinet multiple times. You can also use part of the rack for storing other items that you need frequently Quick Hits: Pull out trash and laundry Don’t forget that you’re going to produce trash and laundry. Make sure that you’ve designated a place in your build for those stinky items. I highly recommend lining it with cedar. I like to have a small trash can so it forces me to throw out the trash before it starts to smell. Quick Hits: Larger sink or dirty dishes drawer I like a larger deeper sink than most people would put in a camper van. You can wait a little longer to do the dishes, you can wash clothes in the sink. I’m willing to sacrifice a few extra inches on my countertop for a larger sink. But that’s just me, you do you. Quick Hits: Larger Freshwater and Greywater Tank One of the biggest pain-in-the-butts of vanlife is finding spots to fill freshwater and dump greywater. This can especially be problematic for boondockers or urban stealth vanlifers. My first van had 20 gallons and that was a lot in comparison to some other van builds, but when planning my van builds from scratch, I don’t do anything less than 40 gallons anymore. It’s really nice not having to fill freshwater as often. On the flipside, my greywater tank was 7 gallons, and finding a place to dump my greywater was also an issue. Dumping your greywater on grass or the street, even if you use biodegradable soaps and toothpaste, is somewhat of a “grey area” (pun intended) for many vanlifers. I personally like to dump my greywater at an official dumpstation whenever possible and I never dump on public lands. Having a larger grey water tank like this one from Vanlife Outfitters really cuts down on the amount of trips to the dump stations. Quick Hits: Fixed dinette It’s nice if you can incorporate a fixed dinette into your van build. Some floorplans won’t permit this but I really wanted to be able to sit down and work or eat without having to enter into a process to transform my seating area. Quick Hits: 12v Air Conditioner I had the “Two MaxxFan Method” in my first van and that was fine for travel out West, mostly at higher elevations. If you’re going to traveling in the south, don’t have a high tolerance for heat or if you have fur babies, then you’re going to probably want to get a 12v air conditioner like this one. The downside is that you’ll also probably need a larger battery bank. As our climate changes and things really start to heat up, 12v Air Conditioners are quickly becoming a non-negotiable for some vanlifers. Quick Hits: Insulated curtain or wall Most of the heat and cold are going to come into your van through your cockpit. It’s good to have a plan to Quick Hits: Garage Drawer System On my first van I had the black rubber bins from Home Depot to store all my gear. No matter how hard I tried to organize my bins, based on how frequently I needed the gear, the item I needed always seemed to be in the back of the garage on the bottom bin. That meant I needed to take out all the other bins to get to the bin I needed. On my second build I added a large 42” long double drawer on 250lb drawer slides. Getting things out was so much easier. I also really like having this cargo pull out tray which is rated for 800lbs. I’ll never have 800lbs on it but it’s really smooth when I have all my storage containers with tools and heavy equipment on it. Vanlife Outfitters has been supporting DIY camper van builders since 2016. We have a large collection of blog posts, videos, tips, resources, information and products to help you on your journey into vanlife. If you got any useful information from our site please let us know and if you’re in the market for products to build out a van please consider supporting our store!

How To Insulate Your Camper Van

I’ve probably put more thought into insulating my camper vans than is considered sane or healthy. I can’t exactly say why I choose to obsess over this more than almost any other part of the van build, but that’s another conversation between myself and my therapist. You might be asking: “Who are you and what makes your system so great?” Well I don’t consider myself an insulation expert and I don’t know if that title exists in vanlife. But I’ll tell you a little about my experience. Since getting into vanlife in 2017, I’ve built or been involved in the build of over 15 camper vans and I’ve seen countless other vans being built. I’ve also done dozens of hours of research, reading and YouTube rabbit-holing. I’ve personally seen wool, thinsulate, reflectix, EPS foam board, spray foam, rock wool, fiberglass, denim and every other type of insulation and insulation method or system in the universe. All of that research and observation has led me to the creation of a system that I use in my vans and recommend to any of my friends, family and vanlifers who are building their van. In this blog post I’m going to keep it as simple as possible. I won’t be going deep into the science and analytics behind my system because that blog post is far too long and boring. If you have any questions or want a more technical discussion please feel free to reach out to me via e-mail or attend my Camper Van Insulation Analytics Ted Talk at MIT this Summer (just kidding). What You’ll Need Of course, the specific quantities will depend on your van. Materials: ¾” EPS Foam Board ¾” Plywood ½” Plywood Marine Sealant Sound Deadener (80 Mil Preferred – Noico, Killmat, Etc.) Thinsulate SM600L (Automotive) 3M 90 Spray Adhesive Low-E Reflective Foam Rivnuts Wood Screws (1″ or dependent on your plywood choices) Foil AC or Low-E Tape Tools: Heavy Duty Scissors Heavy Duty Caulking Gun Rivnut Installer Tool (Pneumatic/Hydraulic recommended) Drill Table Saw or Circular Saw Phase One: Sound Deadener (Noico or Killmat) I start by applying a sound deadener product like Killmat or Noico that volume to the sheet metal of your van which, in turn, reduces vibration that adds a lot of noise to an empty van. Some people choose to line their entire van with sound deadeners which in my opinion is an incredible waste of money and weight. In my experience, you only really need to cover 25% of each panel and I highly recommend you also cover the floor and wheel wells of the van completely as these especially are a high source of noise. Sound deadener is easy to use, just cut to size, peel the back, stick in on the sheetmetal and press or roll in on. Phase Two: Insulation (Thinsulate SM600L) I have an entire blog post on why I like Thinsulate over wool. It’s a superior product to everything else on the market. I apply Thinsulate to the skin of the van over sound deadener with 3M 90 spray adhesive (spray the wall and the white side of the Thinsulate, wait 10 seconds, then stick the white side of the Thinsulate to the wall. I apply Thinsulate to every inch of the visible walls of the van. I also tuck Thinsulate into the door, ribs and crevices of the van (everywhere you can). I also take down the headliner over the cab and stuff Thinsulate and Low-E (see below) in there as well. The only place I don’t install Thinsulate is on the floor (more on that later). Once the Thinsulate is completed, I prewire the van and run all the branch wires to where the electrical system will be located. Phase Three: Floor (EPS Foam Board, Silicone, Plywood) Once you’ve installed the sound deadening and Thinsulate, this is a good time to think about installing your subfloor. The process of installing the subfloor is a little different from the rest of the van. I cut three-quarter-inch plywood into three inch wide furring strips and attach them to the floor using marine sealant. I install the furring strips in a grid pattern with each strip about sixteen inches apart vertically and sixteen inches horizontally. Your floor should look like a giant tic-tac-toe board. I then cut three-quarter-inch thick EPS foam board (the kind with the foil on one side) into squares to fit the empty spaces between the furring strips. I place the EPS foam squares with the foil side facing up and tape them in using foil tape. At this point your floor should look like it’s covered in aluminum foil. The last step is to template out your floor onto three-quarter-inch plywood and screw your subfloor into your furring strips with wood screws. Phase Four: Furring Strips (Plywood) In this phase, I install half-inch furring strips (half-inch plywood cut into three-inch wide strips) on all the ribs of the van using Rivnuts (or Plusnuts) but I don’t fully tighten them yet since I will eventually take them down to re-install to hold the Low-E (Phase Four) in place. Furring strips are important for a couple reasons. The first reason is that it gives you something to screw your walls and ceiling into. When you screw directly into the ribs in the van it creates metal on metal squeaking, it creates many more holes in your metal than is necessary (potential for rust) and most importantly it allows heat to be transferred (I will save you a boring lesson on the dynamics of heat transfer) from the metal of the van into the screws and then into your van. Imagine each screw head as a tiny heater giving off heat in your van, hundreds of those tiny heaters give off a lot of heat. The second reason furring strips are important is that they give you the opportunity to create air gaps. Air gaps provide an additional thermal break between your insulation and your interior wall. I will also save you a boring lesson on thermal breaks, but just know that they’re good. I also have a theory that having an air gap creates additional sound insulation, but this is just a theory. The only drawbacks I see to using furring strips would be additional weight, additional cost and losing a half-inch of height and an inch of interior width in your van. Phase Five: Radiant Barrier (Low-E) Low-E is similar to Reflectix, but it is superior in quality. Low-E is a 7/32″ closed cell foam that is backed on both sides with pure aluminum foil (not “metallic looking” plastic like Reflectix). It acts as a reflective radiant barrier to deflect heat from away from the living space. It also acts as a very good vapor barrier and reduces condensation if installed properly. Many automotive window shade manufacturers use Low-E inside their window shades to reduce the amount of radiant heat that is allowed into the vehicle. The Low-E comes in six-foot wide rolls. This means that one piece can cover the entire ceiling, another single piece can cover the passenger wall, and another single piece can cover the driver side wall. I measure and cut a single piece for each wall and another for the ceiling. I also cut pieces for the doors and the headliner over the cab. If you have any Low-E left over and you’re crafty then you can make window shades. I take the Low-E piece I cut for the ceiling and put it up on the ceiling with magnets to hold it in place. I then mark out where all the rivnuts for the furring strips are. I reattach the firring strips to permanently hold the Low-E in place. I repeat the process with the driver’s and passenger side walls. I then tape the seams where the Low-E for the walls and ceiling meet with foil tape. (Don’t forget to make small holes to pull your wires through and make sure the holes are as tight as possible to the wire). You should have a seamless Low-E “shell” inside the van when this stage is completed. There will be an air gap between the Thinsulate and Low-E of about 1/2″+/- depending on the make/model of your van (this is your first air gap). This photo shows the Low-E on the walls with furring strips locking it in place. There is an air gap between the Thinsulate and the back of the Low-E and there will be another air gap between the front of the Low-E and back of the plywood wall. The next step in the photo would be to take the furring strips off the ceiling and install the Low-E and put back the furring strips on top and then tape the seam where the wall and ceiling are joined. (The Low-E on the wall in the photo is cut because there is a window there). Phase Six: Walls & Ceiling (Plywood) Lastly, I install my plywood walls and ceiling by screwing them into the furring strips with wood screws. The space the furring strips creates between your Low-E and plywood walls is your second air gap. Theoretically, any heat that isn’t reflected back by the Low-E would have less of a chance of transferring to your walls. Vanlife Outfitters has been supporting DIY camper van builders since 2016. We have a large collection of blog posts, videos, tips, resources, information and products to help you on your journey into vanlife. If you got any useful information from our site please let us know and if you’re in the market for products to build out a van please consider supporting our store!

Camper Van Drains and Grey Tank Plumbing Overview Video

In this video Zach talks about his least favorite part of a camper van build: plumbing. Specifically drain plumbing and grey water storage. He’s (clearly) no expert but we get a lot of questions about this topic so we thought we’d give it a shot and hope that some of this information is helpful to other “plumbing-challenged” DIY builders. We prefer to use flexible, marine-grade hose for routing drain lines. If you’re converting a Promaster van, our custom-molded grey water tank can make this less miserable for you!

Camper Van Insulation - Thinsulate vs. Wool

Odd as it sounds, what to use for insulating your van has become known for being one of the more controversial vanlife topics in the community. Perhaps second only to the great indoor shower (or no shower) debate. Insulation is a hot topic for good reason. It’s important to have good insulation because it helps to prevent heat from rising inside the camper van during hotter months and prevents heat from escaping during cooler months and quiets the ride. Choosing what type of insulation is also one of the first (of hundreds) of decisions to make when planning your van build. There are numerous vanlife insulation options for custom van builds and van conversions, as well as various methods for installing them. When choosing the right type of insulation for your van, it is important to understand the differences and compare van insulation options. The insulation you choose will become the core foundation for the climate and noise control of your van. There are several different types of insulation options to choose from. They range from fiberglass insulation, spray foam, polyiso board, Thinsulate, wool, mineral wool and even recycled denim! In this blog post, we will discuss two of the most popular types of insulation that most vanlifers and professional van builders use in their van builds. Thinsulate insulation is made from a type of insulating synthetic fiber, and it’s a thermal type of insulation. It is manufactured by 3M, a company who has been in business for over 100 years and has an excellent reputation. Thinsulate has undergone rigorous testing, studies and quality control. Thinsulate has an excellent name brand, is often used in thermal clothing and was once marketed as a more cost-effective option to down material. Most of the puffy jackets and sleeping bags that professional mountaineers use are made with Thinsulate or a similar synthetic material. The word Thinsulate describes the type of material, as it is thin and insulate. Thinsulate is considered superior to wool insulation for a few reasons. Thinsulate is hydrophobic which means it doesn’t absorb moisture and it repels it. It’s also non-toxic and easy to install. Most people install Thinsulate with 3M 90 spray adhesive, but, like many things these days it’s in short supply and hard to find (this post was written in mid-2021). We reached out to our 3M rep and asked what alternatives might work. He said that 3M 76, 77, or 78 spray adhesives might work but may be a little slower to dry. Also, double sided tape is often used and in automotive applications, hot melt glue is used. Another suggestion was to source 3M 90 adhesive in cans, buckets or tubs from places like Grainger. This could be easier to find and potentially less expensive as well if you’re insulating your entire van but you would need a sprayer. Then there is wool. Most wool insulation options are known to absorb some moisture, and if (when?) it does it looses some of it’s insulating capacity. Wool is often treated with boric acid, a type of insect repellent. Most manufacturers disclose that wool insulation must be treated with this additive to reduce flammability and repel insects. However, this additive is considered to be poisonous if it is to be ingested and it can also cause irritations to the body, more specifically the nose, throat, eyes and skin. If you decide to install this type of insulation, it is important to wear protective gear and follow recommended procedures from the manufacturer. Also, since wool comes from a sheep…it smells like a barnyard. That smell eventually goes away but not for several months up to a year. I personally can’t stand the smell. Thinsulate is odorless. And for those who are concerned, wool is not a vegan product and is not cruelty free. In some cases, during the production and processes of obtaining wool, sheep are not always treated well. In the wild, sheep know how to take care of their wool, such as growing enough for winter months and shedding unnecessary excess wool during the summer months. However, in captivity, sheep are being bred to constantly produce more and more wool. This is making them much more susceptible to overheating or heatstroke and is the reason why sheep are needing to be sheared more often. Some sheep are being sheared carelessly and this is leading to wounds, pain and avoidable injuries. All sheep are eventually killed when their production decreases or if they become too old or sick. Finally, wool insulation is a little more difficult to install and requires either holding the material up with tape/string or partially installing your walls and stuffing the material inside. Now that you understand what each product is and how it’s manufactured or harvested and installed, let’s discuss the insulative properties of each and the costs associated with both. R-Value Thinsulate SM600L comes in 1.6” thickness and has an R-value of 3.25 per inch. The total R-value of the 1.6” material is 5.2 (3.25 x 1.6”). If you wanted to double up the Thinsulate, you’re R-value would be 10.4, however we feel that one layer of Thinsulate combined with a radiant barrier (Low-E) and air gaps is more than enough insulation Most wool for vans comes in 2” thickness and has an R-value of 3.5 per inch. The major US supplier of Wool insulation sells it in 2” batts and therefore it has an overall R value of 7 (3.5 x 2”). Cost 300 feet of Thinsulate from Vanlife Outfitters is approximately $500 with shipping. 300 feet of wool from the major US wool supplier is approximately $500 with shipping. Final Verdict We recommend Thinsulate over wool for it’s superior moisture management, ease of installation, non-toxic properties and the fact that animals aren’t mistreated in its production.

Webasto Heater Tech Talk Interview Video

Want to spend an hour nerding out about Webasto heaters with a Webasto tech – like the guy who actually trains certified installers and knows these things inside and out? Well, you’re at the right place! We talk maintenance, high altitude adjustments, altitude limits for the Air Top 2000 STC heaters and how it compares to the bigger EVO40, differences between gasoline and diesel version, how to make your heater last for 10,000+ hours instead of only 70 hours and tons more. While you’re here, you might be interested in our Webasto Air Top 2000 installation post or checking out all the Webasto products we sell in our store!