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How to Find the Right Camper Van Builder (Without Losing Your Shirt or Your Sanity)

So you want a camper van but know you can’t build it by yourself — this post is for you! If you’re thinking about building a camper van and realize you need help, or you want to hire a professional custom van builder to handle the entire job, you’ve probably noticed one thing: it’s not easy to figure out which conversion van builders you can actually trust. Converting a van into a camper isn’t like buying a toaster. It’s more like building a tiny house that’s going to shake down the highway at 70 mph, bounce along dirt roads, and hopefully take you on the adventures of your life. The truth? Not all camper van builders are created equal. Some are pros who’ve been doing this for years, others are weekend warriors trying to make a quick buck. So how do you find the right van conversion company to trust with your wheels *and* your wallet? I’ve spent years around camper van builds — building my own, helping friends, supporting customers. I’ve seen the good, the bad, and the downright ugly. Here’s my straight-talk guide to choosing a van builder without losing your mind (or your shirt). By the way, if you want to hear about my latest camper van build, check out our podcast on the topic here! Step 1: Spend Time in Camper Vans Before You Decide What You Want Here’s my number one tip: before you even call a builder, spend time in converted vans. Rent them for a few weekends. Walk through friends’ vans. Go to camper van meetups like Peace Love & Vans. You’ll learn more in several nights of camping than in weeks of scrolling Instagram. People ask me all the time, “Mike, how big of a fridge should I get?” My answer? “I don’t know — how much food do you eat?!” The same goes for everything else: – Bed size? Try sleeping in a few. – Shower? See if you’d actually use it. – Kitchen? Cook a meal in a van before deciding you need a full stove. – Water tank size? Depends… How long are your showers? – Solar panels? Well, what items are you looking to power? Have you considered a secondary alternator? A good camper van builder can help you refine your ideas, but they can’t tell you how you live. That part’s on you. Step 2: Start Local, But Don’t Stop There Sure, search for “van conversion company near me” or “custom camper van builder .” Local builders make it easier to visit the shop, check progress, and talk face-to-face. But don’t limit yourself. Some of the best van builders in the U.S. are booked out months in advance — and worth the drive or shipping cost. When researching, look for: – Van type specialization (Sprinter, Transit, ProMaster) – Online reviews (Google, forums, Facebook) – Social media portfolios (Instagram is basically the showroom for this industry) – And don’t forget to check out our directory of van builders! Step 3: Check Their Street Cred You wouldn’t hire a tattoo artist who’s only done two tattoos. Same goes for camper van builders. Ask: – How many years have you been doing van conversions? – How many of your completed camper vans are on the road? – Can I talk to past customers? And don’t just ask for references — actually call them. Ask: Did the builder answer your calls? Was the project on time? Has the van held up after real miles? If past customers dodge your questions or sound lukewarm, that’s a red flag. And check out my companion article: “10+ Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Camper Van Builder”. Step 4: Style & Craftsmanship Every camper van builder has a vibe. Some crank out modern, minimalist builds. Others lean rustic, cabin-style. Don’t hire someone whose portfolio doesn’t match what you want. Then look closer at the craftsmanship: – Cabinetry: Do they build in-house? CNC cut for precision? – Materials: Lightweight and durable or heavy house-grade stuff? – Details: Are finishes clean? Do doors close tight? Does the wiring look like a spaghetti mess? Pro tip: Visit the shop if you can. Seeing their workspace tells you a lot about their standards. Step 5: Systems Matter — Electrical & Plumbing Here’s where the rubber meets the road. Anybody can glue wood to the walls. But electrical and plumbing? That separates the pros from the DIY YouTubers. Ask: – What brands do you use (Victron, Epoch, SOK, etc.)? – Who does the wiring and plumbing? – What safety standards do you follow? A bad electrical job isn’t just inconvenient — it’s dangerous. And trust me, you don’t want to find out your plumbing leaks while you’re sleeping in the van. Step 6: Talk Money (and Be Upfront About Your Budget) Let’s get real: Camper van conversions cost money. Lots of it. A partial build might start around $20,000. Full custom builds can run $100,000 or way more — before you even buy the van. When collecting quotes, ask for: – Transparency (no hidden fees) – Payment schedules – Line-item breakdowns Some van conversion companies offer financing or partner with lenders. Ask early if that’s an option. Step 7: Safety, Legal, and Warranties This is the boring stuff most people skip, but it matters: – Does the van meet legal safety codes? – Will it pass insurance inspections? – Do they warranty their work? If they look at you funny when you ask these questions, that’s your sign to run. Step 8: Communication & Trust Your Gut You’re not just buying a camper van build, you’re starting a months-long relationship. If they don’t listen, talk down to you, or are slow to respond before you give them money — it’s not gonna get better. Ask directly: – How do you handle surprises? – What happens if timelines slip? – What support do you offer after delivery? Then trust your gut. If you don’t feel good, walk away. Final Thoughts Your converted van is your dream on wheels. Don’t rush this decision. Take time to figure out your must-haves, spend some nights in camper vans, and ask the hard questions. The right van conversion company will be proud to answer them. And hey, if you want a quick-hit checklist of the questions I recommend, check out my companion post: ’10+ Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Camper Van Conversion Company.’ Do it right, and soon you’ll be hitting the road in a van that actually fits your life. FAQs About Choosing a Camper Van Conversion Company How much does a camper van conversion cost? Depends how wild you go. A super simple weekender setup might start around $20,000 (not including the van). A full-blown custom camper van with solar, plumbing, cabinetry, and off-grid systems can easily hit $80,000–$120,000 (again, before buying the van). Always get detailed quotes. How long does it take to build a camper van? Most van conversions take 6–12 weeks, depending on complexity and the builder’s schedule. Partial builds can be quicker, high-end customs may take several months. Always ask about timelines and potential delays. Should I hire a camper van conversion company or DIY? If you’ve got the skills, tools, and time, DIY can save money and be rewarding. But if electrical wiring or plumbing or cutting holes in your van freak you out, a professional van builder is worth it. Many people do a hybrid: DIY the easy stuff, hire pros for the technical work. How do I find a camper van builder near me? Start with Google searches like ‘van conversion company near me’ or ‘Sprinter van builder .’ Check forums, Facebook groups, and Instagram. Local shops make it easier to visit, but don’t rule out reputable builders in other states. You can also check out Vanlife Outfitters builder network directory. What’s the best van for a camper conversion? The big three are: – Mercedes Sprinter: tons of aftermarket parts, tall roof, diesel. – Ford Transit: affordable, AWD options, widely available. – Ram ProMaster: boxy shape, front-wheel drive. The best choice depends on your budget and lifestyle. How do I know if a camper van builder is legit? Look at their portfolio, talk to past customers, and visit their shop. A legit van conversion company is transparent about costs, timelines, and safety standards. If they dodge questions, walk away. Do van conversion companies offer financing? Some do, some don’t. Larger shops sometimes partner with lenders. You can also check with credit unions, RV loans, or personal loans for funding. What’s the biggest mistake people make when hiring a camper van builder? Not knowing what they want and not doing the research! Spend time in vans first. Figure out if you really need a shower, how much fridge space fits your lifestyle, and whether a toilet is worth it. Don’t let Instagram decide your build for you.

10+ Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Camper Van Builder

Van conversions are not cheap! They take time, money, creativity and a whole lot of work — and in the end, your converted van might become your weekend getaway or your full-time home on the road. That’s why choosing the right camper van conversion company is one of the most important decisions you’ll make. Whether you’re planning quick trips to campgrounds and state parks or selling everything to live the vanlife dream, the builder you hire will shape the comfort, safety, and durability of your custom camper van. Doing your due diligence up front can save you stress (and cash) later. For a broad overview of hiring a camper van conversion company, check out my companion post: “How to Find the Right Camper Van Builder (Without Losing Your Shirt or Your Sanity)”. In addition, if you want to hear about my latest camper van build, check out our podcast on the topic here! Without further ado, here are the essential questions I always recommend asking. Think of this as your checklist for finding a camper van builder you can actually trust. 1. How long have you been doing this? Experience counts. Years in business matter, but so does what they did before camper van conversions — were they carpenters, electricians, or just figuring it out as they went? Ask both. A builder with a trade background and a few years of van-specific work under their belt is usually a safer bet. 2. How many camper vans have you actually converted — and which ones? Sprinters, Transits, and ProMasters all have quirks. The more builds they’ve done, the more lessons they’ve learned. Don’t just ask for the number — ask if they’ve worked on your specific van model. Repetition is what irons out the kinks. 3. Can I talk to a few of your past customers? Don’t proceed without this. Get at least three references and ask real questions: How was the builder’s communication? Did they promptly answer calls and emails? Did they keep you up to date with the build progress? Were you able (invited) to visit the shop to check progress during the build? Did they accommodate any mid build changes? Was the project on time? Did you feel part of the build process? How has the van held up after months (or years) of use? The answers will tell you more than any Instagram photo. 4. How long does a typical build take? Conversions can take 6–12 weeks, sometimes more. Ask about their usual timeline, but also how they handle delays — because every project hits a snag. A good camper van builder is upfront and keeps you in the loop instead of leaving you hanging. And, how do they bring you along for the ride — regular calls? Emails/photos? Can you drop in? Trust me, you are going to want to watch this thing develop! 5. Do you have a certain “style”? Every builder has a look. Some crank out modern, minimalist builds. Others do cozy cabins or high-end luxury. Scroll their portfolio and make sure you actually like what they do — because chances are, that’s what you’ll get. Don’t expect them to reinvent their entire style for you. 6. What materials do you use? Vans shake, rattle, and roll. What works in a stationary house doesn’t always hold up on the road. Ask what materials they use, why they chose them, and whether they’re lightweight and durable enough for life on the move. If they can’t explain their choices, that’s a red flag. 7. Do you build cabinets in-house? Cabinetry can make or break a camper van. Ask if they custom-build or buy prefab. In-house CNC work usually means tighter fit and fewer rattles. Customization also lets you maximize every inch of space — which matters a lot in a van. 8. How do you handle electrical systems? This is the heart of a camper van. Anyone can slap wood on walls, but wiring batteries and solar is another level. Ask what brands they use (Victron, Battle Born, Renogy, etc.), how many systems they’ve installed, and who actually does the wiring. If electrical seems like an afterthought, walk away. 9. What features and options do you offer? Plumbing, showers, toilets, dinettes, work spaces — every lifestyle needs different features. Some builders specialize in full off-grid setups, others keep it simple. Make sure they can deliver the exact options you care about. 10. What’s this really going to cost me? Camper van conversions range from $20,000 for basic setups to over $100,000 for full custom homes (and that’s not including the van). Ask for a detailed, line-item quote. No hidden fees, no vague answers. Also ask about payment schedules and warranty coverage. A good van conversion company is upfront about money from day one. 11. Do you do partial conversions? Not everyone needs a full build. Maybe you just want electrical or insulation done. Ask if they take on partial projects. It can save you money and still give you professional quality where it counts. 12. What’s included in your warranty? A camper van is a big investment. A legit van builder will warranty their work. Ask how long it lasts and what’s covered: cabinetry, electrical, plumbing, labor, or just parts? 13. Will my camper van still be insurable and legal? Insurance companies care about safety standards. If your builder doesn’t follow RVIA or local codes, you might have trouble getting coverage. Ask how they make sure your custom camper van is legal and insurable. 14. What’s the resale value of a converted van? If you might sell someday, ask what features hold value. Clean layouts and quality systems usually pay off better than flashy extras. A good van conversion company will know what buyers look for. 15. Do they offer a pick up orientation? Your dream camper van will certainly have a lot of great features, but will you know where they all are and how to use them? Any decent builder will suggest — better yet, require — that you are available to take a couple of hours at pickup to go through the entire build. Where is my electrical system? How do I turn my system off/on? How do I fill my fresh water tank? How do I dump my grey water? What does this switch do? How does my heater work? Is there a remote for my AC or my Maxx fan? Where’s the toilet? Remember, this is a pretty big deal and once you drive off in your new home on wheels, you’re gonna want to know what’s up when you pull over that first night to camp out. 16. What is their post-build support plan? How will they support you after you drive away in the camper van? Do they offer warranties? Trouble-shooting? Check-ins? Adjustments after an initial shake-down trip? You want to know up front if they are going to leave you high-and-dry after you’ve given the final payment. Final Tip: Don’t Ignore Your Gut If something feels off — it probably is. The best camper van conversion company isn’t just skilled. They’re communicative, trustworthy, and actually care about your project. Use this list as your guide. And if you want the full deep dive on finding the right builder, check out my companion post: “How to Find the Right Camper Van Conversion Company (Without Losing Your Shirt or Your Sanity).”

Why I Love Vanlife - How it's the Best Way to Travel

Vanlife is the best way to travel. Granted, I’m perhaps the most biased person on the planet to blog on this topic, but I’m all-in on vanlife! With that out of the way, keep in mind that I’m still all-in after owning 7 camper vans ranging from a 1971 VW Westfalia to 4x DIY builds, over the course of the last 31 years which is my entire adult life! In this blog post I’ll give you some of the reasons why. Agility = Options The agility of a camper van is a game-changer compared to staying at hotels or even a larger RV. RVs, with their bulky size, limit where you can go… narrow mountain roads, tight parking lots, and urban areas are often off-limits. Compare that to a camper van which is typically the same size as a large SUV or truck. This means you don’t have to worry about where you’re going to go. With an RV you’d better consider how you’re going to park or turn around. With a van, you navigate the way you’re used to in a car. On the camping side of things camper vans can overnight just about anywhere it’s allowed – from trailheads to urban parking lots to hidden gems you can find on apps like iOverlander. Obviously, the size of a full-size RV makes this considerably harder. per van, being closer in size to a regular vehicle, opens up a world of options. This frees up time in your travel days to explore instead of trying to find camping sites and typically opens up options closer to where you want to be. Hotels Suck In general and the friction of staying in hotels is more apparent after you experience the agility detailed above. In addition to all that you have to pack stuff in and out of the room. In a van everything you’re used to having is where you left it! Compare that to the logistical headaches you face when staying in hotels. You forgot to pack some things, you leave others in your car or Uber and, ultimately, you forget stuff in the room when you check out. Then there’s the fact that “hotel life” revolves around the hotel’s schedule instead of yours – from check in time to when they wake you up in the morning with their vacuums to when the “food product they describe as breakfast” is available in the lobby. You also have to go through all the rigamarole and cost to book the room – normally well in advance. Then there is the general comfort which is generally lacking. Even when the bed is comfortable and the room is pretty nice, everything is different for every stay in every town. Just imagine having your very own bedroom and bathroom following you around wherever you go and then waking up and being able to make your own morning beverage and a proper breakfast. So. Much. Better. Always Ready To Roll Speaking of packing and logistics, one of the things I love about van travel is that most of the stuff you want is already in the van, ready to roll. I always say that it takes the same amount of time to prepare for a two-day trip as it does for a two-month trip. I keep my van stocked so that all I need to do is add some food and some clothes to hit the road. Self-Sufficiency & Types of Camper Vans Camper vans, particularly the “adventure van” types, really shine when it comes to self-sufficiency and being off grid (a.k.a: boondocking). What do I mean by “adventure type”? The way I think about camper vans is that they fall into two broad categories: what the industry calls “Class-B RVs” or the so-called “adventure vans”. Class-B RVs are similar to their larger RV cousins in the way they’re mass-produced by companies like Winnebago and Thor and share many of the systems of a typical RV. Compared to adventure vans, the B’s tend to have smaller water tanks and primitive electrical systems, etc. So, the first big difference is their ability to be off-grid for longer periods of time. Adventure vans also tend to offer a more rugged style and durable surfaces that can stand up to the grit of a more adventurous lifestyle as well as spaces for “gear” like bikes which is often in the form of what people refer to as a “garage” under the sleeping area normally near the rear cargo doors. So, while all camper vans are agile, “adventure vans” are even more so! To illustrate this, following images compare the style and systems of a Thor Scope (Class-B, on the left side of photos) and a Remote Vans “Friday” series (adventure van, on the right side of photos). You can click on the images to make them bigger. Ultimately, style is subjective but if you look a the systems they are objectively better. The Thor has a 1000 watt inverter and the 200 watts of solar for charging which is the only way to charge without turning on your generator or plugging into shore power. I found that it only has 18 gallons of fresh water on board in a Google search. Meanwhile, the Remote Vans has a state-of-the art Lithionics electrical system with a 3000 watt inverter and a secondary alternator that can charge the batteries at 100 amps at 48V (over 5000 watts) anytime you’re driving. It also has twice as much fresh water capacity at 32 gallons! Also notable, adventure vans are more expensive! This is one of the many reasons most of our customers are making their own adventure-style vans which we make much easier with our blog, videos and extensive catalog of the very best, road-tested camper van build products. But, you can also hire a van builder in your area or purchase one that is manufactured by a company like Remote Vans with the ability to finance it. A well-built van is ready to travel just about anywhere without the need for “hookups” (water or electrical connections, etc.). You can drive it where you want to be and live comfortably using its gasoline heater, energy-efficient DC air conditioner, large water supply and nearly limitless electrical power and luxurious hot water. So, literally by driving, you’re generating electricity and hot water. At the end of a travel day, instead of needing a campground or RV park with hookups for life-support, you can overnight anywhere it makes sense – from a Walmart parking lot to a remote campsite – all you need is fuel (gas or diesel) and a place you want to drive. I’m about a week into a van adventure and I haven’t needed hookups at all. I will eventually need to refill my water tank and the “cassette” to my toilet (as fun and glamorous as you’re imagining) but I can normally find ways to do that for free (or low cost) at rest stops or other similar places. Meanwhile, I’ve been running my AC when it’s hot, heater when it’s cool, Starlink internet continuously and enjoying “me espresso” every morning. The only “inputs” have been lots of gasoline and perhaps some donuts. Honestly, I think most people really want an adventure van but don’t know about this distinction when they start shopping for their rig. Many of our customers have ended up with a B-van only to rip out its disabled electrical system and replace it with a truly capable one from Victron. Fuel Efficiency Is Way Better This one is so obvious but worth mentioning… Fuel efficiency is one of a camper van’s biggest wins over an RV. While RVs guzzle gas with their massive engines and size – sometimes getting as low as 6-10 miles per gallon. Meanwhile a camper van sips fuel more like a big car, often averaging 15-20 MPG depending on the model and fuel type (gasoline or diesel). This not only saves money at the pump but also reduces the environmental footprint of your travels and how often you’re stopping for fuel. Easy to Store When Not Using When the trip’s over, a camper van is a breeze to store compared to an RV. An RV requires a dedicated parking spot, often at a premium cost, or a storage facility with monthly fees. A van can often slide into your garage, driveway, or even a regular parking space. Its compact size means you’re not wrestling with logistics or shelling out extra cash when it’s not in use. Also in some cases municipal or HOA restrictions against RVs don’t apply to camper vans. Community This one is less intuitive but I would say that one of the best things about vanlife is the community! The camper van lifestyle draws a diverse group of like-minded people who value adventure, freedom and friendship. I’ve talked with so many people who had dozens of different reasons to get into vanlife – from full-time travel to working remotely – but one of the common threads is that once they started, what has kept them going – especially during difficult moments – is the awesome community. You’ll meet folks on the road, at campsites and, notably at community-focused vanlife gatherings spread around the country such as Peace Love & Vans. Check out our event calendar for ideas on other gatherings. Despite the wide range of people and reasons for being on the road, we all have one important thing in common – we’re crazy (or smart) enough to travel and live in a tiny house on wheels. Vanlifers share a bond over the thrill of the open road and a mutual appreciation for experiences over stuff. It’s a true community that you’ll probably find welcoming as well as inspiring. Below is a fun photo from the 2025 Peace Love & Vans at the moment someone is winning a raffle prize 🙂 Forced Minimalism Living in a camper van forces you into a practical form of minimalism in the best way possible. With extremely limited space, you must really think about what’s essential and what’s clutter. Which clothes, tools, cookware and other essentials do you absolutely need? Are there things you can pack that do double duty? And, when you go to the grocery store or farmer’s market, you’ll typically only be buying for a day or two. Best of all, once you’ve gone through this process and lived with the bare essentials most people tend to carry that forward to their stationary life. It’s liberating to discover how much joy fits into such a small footprint. Get Out! The cozy-but-minimal quarters of a camper van naturally push you outdoors. One common question people ask about my van is something along the lines of “this is really cool but don’t you feel cooped up?” My answer is no! The van has all the necessary comforts like a bed, galley, bathroom, etc. but I don’t want to drive around the country or the world to be inside ANY type of structure. The whole point of travel and or being in nature is to be OUT there – on the trail, at the beach, in the city, etc. A big living space is actually something of a temptation to stay inside rather than getting out there. It’s a feature, not a bug 🙂 Can Use a Van as a Daily Driver A camper van doubles as a daily driver, which is a huge perk over an RV. RVs are too big for errands or commutes, racking up extra costs for storage, insurance, and often a second vehicle. With a van, you can commute, get the groceries just as easily as any other car. What Are You Waiting For? That wraps it up! What am I missing? Are there even more benefits to traveling in a van? If so, let us know (orders@vanlifeoutfitters.com). If you haven’t taken the plunge yet, what are you waiting for? As you know, life is short, and if you’ve read this far, you are probably pretty interested in unique blend of novelty, challenge and comfort that vanlife offers, so you might as well try! I would recommend renting (or borrowing) a van and seeing what you think. Also, try to find a vanlife event near you so you can experience the community as well. See you out there! “You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.” – Mae West

Getting The Most Out Of Your Camper Van Air Conditioner

HELP Your Air Conditioner help YOU! In this video, we discuss camper van air conditioners and how to make sure you’re using them properly. We’ve sold A LOT of air conditioners and we even have them in our vans too, so we know a thing or two about cooling down a camper van! We’ve seen people make a lot of mistakes when running their air conditioners, so we thought it might be a good idea to make a video sharing the tips and tricks we use to get our air conditioners to cool our van effectively and efficiently. Air Conditioner Comparison Matrix: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/… A few of our favorite Air Conditioners: Mabru RV12000 (12v): https://www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/sto… Mabru RV12000 (Installation Blog) https://www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/ins… Nomadic Innovations X2 (12v): https://www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/sto… Nomadic Innovations X3 (12v): https://www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/sto… Dometic RTX2000 (12v): https://www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/sto… Check Out All Our Air Conditioners: https://www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/cat…

Starlink Gen 3 Roof Mounting & Using 12VDC Power

In this post, I’ll dive into how I’m using a Starlink system in my Promaster camper van including mounting it to the van’s roof using a Speedmount and powering the system directly from my 12-volt battery bank without needing 120-volt AC power from either my inverter or shore power using a 12/24-volt DC power adapter! The dish I’m using is the so-called Gen 3 which doesn’t have the motors to adjust the positioning of the dish like the older, Gen 2 models. Instead, it has a sort of “kickstand” that is supposed to position the dish at a useful angle to the sky. But, I’m not using this kickstand – instead, I’m mounting it flat on on my roof using a Speedmount which is basically a “frame” for the Gen 3 dishy that has feet to be mounted to something like a vehicle. The feet can be through-bolted to a roof or a roof rack or you can choose to configure the product to ship with very strong magnets which are bolted onto the feet of the Speedmount so that the entire assembly can be mounted to a metal roof (like a van) magnetically. If your rig’s roof isn’t metal (like many RVs), you can also configure the Speedmount to include metal discs that are the right size for the magnetic feet that can be stuck to your roof using the included VHB tape. So, I’m not using the “high performance” dish which is considerably more expensive. Even mounted flat (without the kickstand) my initial testing with the Gen 3 dish is impressive! Parked in an area with reasonable (but not completely wide open) sky views, next to a building with trees and such in the parking lot that are not too far away, the network performance is really good. Check out the 12-hour report below with only 28 seconds of “obstructions”. This is way better than the Gen 2 Starlink in similar conditions.   The Speedmount is made of waterproof and UV thermoplastic that will not warp and not only mounts the dish but also provides some protection to the edge. It’s extremely low profile at only 1.85” in height (1.9” with magnets). AssemblyThe Speedmount ships in 4x pieces that are labeled one through four. Assembly is super simple and quick. Since I am using the magnetic feet, I bolted on those magnets to each piece. Then I assembled pieces 3 and 4 then slipped dishy into that side of the frame and then continued wrapping dishy on the other side by assembling pieces 1 and 2. Finally I completed the “frame” by bolting the two sides to each other. All this is with supplied stainless steel bolts and nylon locknuts. The video below shows the assembly with some snappy music.     Through BoltingIf you’re through bolting the Speedmount feet either through a roof or to a roof rack, we recommend that you assemble the frame by bolting the 4x pieces together without the dishy inside the frame. Then… If you’re bolting through your roof, determine the position of the Speedmount on the roof taking into consideration any “obstacles” or important things that might be on the inside of the rig at that location. Then mark the hole locations that are in the center of each “foot” of the mount (each corner). Then you can drill those holes (the 65mm bolts included with the Speedmount are M6 size). After drilling be sure to clean the holes and protect them with paint to prevent corrosion. Next, insert a bolt through the mounting hole in each foot and disassemble the Speedmount enough to be able to insert the dish while keeping the mounting bolts in place. Some painters tape can make this a lot easier! Once the dishy is inside the frame of the Speedmount you can apply some sealant on each foot – using unbroken rings outside the mounting hole so that the Speedmount will be sealed to the roof and water will not get into the area where the bolt hole is located. We recommend something like 3M 5200 or Loctite PL Marine. Finally drop the Speedmount, with the bolts through the drilled holes and use the supplied washers and nylon locking nuts on the interior of the rig to secure the Speedmount to the roof. If you’re bolting to a roof rack, you’ll go through a similar process as above, but without the need for the sealant. If you have a roof rack constructed from 8020, you can position your t-nuts in the locations of each foot’s mounting hole. To Seal or Not to SealNote, I used some of the Loctite PL Marine sealant where the Starlink-provided Ethernet cable plugs into the bottom of the dish as shown in the photo below. This is either a really great idea or a really terrible one – time will tell 🙂 The “weatherproof” RJ45 plug that is at both ends of the Starlink dish-to-router connection cable is supposed to keep water out but, with this thing up on my van roof with the potential for driving rain and such, I wanted to ensure that no water would get in there. Because of the weatherproofing, the Starlink RJ45 plugs don’t have the locking latch normally found on those types of connectors and they sit pretty snug into the dish and, on the other side, the router. Typically you can simply pull on the cable to remove it since there is no latch. If I ever have to remove the cable from the dishy, it’s going to be, well, more difficult. I also used some velcro to keep the kickstand from flopping around. I hope. Stick To ItBecause my van rocks a secondary alternator power system, I don’t need permanently mounted solar panels. So, I use that roof space for an awesome roof deck. I do have some portable, folding panels that I can put up there when I’m going to be stationary but I don’t use them very often. Behind the deck is a Maxxfan over my bed area but there was an open space behind the deck, on the driver side rear, where I put dishy. The magnetic feet location line up pretty well with the high points of the corrugations on the roof of the Promaster as you can see in the photo below. If you want to check how the “feet” of the Speedmount land on your roof, check out this dimensional drawing. When I build out vans, I try to anticipate changes – particularly those in systems and technology – since I’m a nerd. For instance, I over-gauged the wire running from my Promaster battery to the 30 amp Orion DC-DC charger because there were “rumors” of a 50 amp version of that coming out. The rumors were right and the 50 amp Orion XS is here! I also ran a cat6 network cable from the roof all the way to the storage bin above the cab in a Promaster which is where I put my older, Gen 2 Starlink router. This made the Gen 3 Starlink installation much easier. So, I suppose that’s a tip – consider running additional wires and/or adding conduit during your builds for future upgrades What you see in the photo below is dishy in the Speedmount magnetically attached to the roof on the driver side, the Ethernet cable that comes with the Starlink system is attached (and sealed) to the dish and then runs over to a waterproof box on the passenger side where it’s connected to a weatherproof, female RJ45 female jack. I used the same Loctite PL Marine adhesive here to seal the connection. From there, the cable I pre-ran is used to connect the dishy to the router inside the van. I have the excess cable to dishy on the roof coiled up and velcroed to a crossbar. The idea here is that if the van is parked in an area with limited sky view (forested campsite, etc.), I can pull dishy off the roof and use that excess cable to position it in another spot with more sky. Powering Starlink Gen 3 with 12-Volt DC Power The Starlink system comes with the dish, a router and a fairly large AC adapter box that you would normally plug into an outlet at your house. In a camper van, this would require you to either have shore power or have your inverter turned on whenever you were using Starlink service. But, we sell a power adapter for 12 or 24-volt systems that allow you to power the Starlink system directly off DC power from your battery bank which is more energy efficient! This adapter replaces the Starlink AC adapter. It comes with red/black bare wires that you connect to a DC branch circuit and a plug that goes into the back of the Starlink router to power the system. Below you can see the Starlink router (highlighted in green) and the 12/24-volt power adapter (highlighted in red) installed into the storage area above the cab in the Promaster van. The router is held down with Velcro and the power adapter is tucked into the corner. Note, both the router and power adapter get pretty warm. I also added this remote controlled switch that allows me to turn off the Starlink system when I don’t need it since it does consume a fair amount of power. Running the system from the 12-volt DC power, I’m seeing around 60-70 watts of power consumption on average. It typically hovers around 62 watts. This is of course, in Florida with no need to melt snow! Below is a screenshot from the newer UI for GX devices showing a moment of 81 watts consumption but there is about 16 watts of other “idle loads”.   PS: if you want your mind completely blown and to have the proper appreciation of the miracle of Starlink, check out this video!

Warehouse Tour Video

We thought it would be fun to share a little “behind the scenes” footage with our customers so we made this quick warehouse tour video. Sometimes we’re asked if we stock the stuff we sell in the store and the answer is, yes, literally tons of it! Of course, there are some things that are dropshipped but we have hundreds of the very best products for camper van or adventure rigs in stock every day! We’ve done the work of researching (and road testing) the best stuff so you don’t have to. Our catalog of products is carefully curated so you can have confidence you’re getting the best stuff for your van. Learn more here.

Your Ultimate Guide to Unforgettable Vanlife Events in 2024

How to Begin Your Vanlife Journey Sooner...What Are You Waiting For?

The Definitive Guide To Vanlife Safety - Stay Safe On The Road

This post is all about how to stay safe (both you and your van) on the road. There have been a couple of high-profile stories regarding vanlife and van safety in the news just as vanlife was becoming mainstream. As a percentage of actual vanlifers, I tend to think that vanlife-related crime is a very minor, barely existent issue. However, I acknowledge that I am writing this from the perspective of a larger-than-average athletic male, trained in self-defense. I do subscribe to the motto, “better safe than sorry”, so I thought it would be good to talk about things that you can do to keep your van (and most importantly yourself) safe on the road. First I will talk about ways to keep your physical van and property safe and then, more importantly, I will talk about keeping yourself safe. Protecting your van and valuables: Take Photos for Security & Insurance Take detailed photos all around your van including the exterior, interior, and your personal property in the event your van gets broken into. Most insurance companies will want to see these photos before binding your policy. Keep these photos stored somewhere you can access such as Dropbox or Google Drive just in case if you wind up needing them to submit a claim. Keep valuables secure It’s a good idea to keep your valuables safe by installing a safe, locking drawer or hidden compartment into your van build. In the unlikely event that someone breaks into your van, they probably won’t have the time to get into your safe and if you have a hidden compartment, they might not even find it. Invest in an anti-theft system I have an aftermarket anti-theft system installed in my van for multiple reasons. First, it’s obviously a protection against your van being stolen. Second, it’s nice to have a “panic button” next to you in bed, in case you hear someone lurking outside your van. Lastly, it will most likely be an item that could reduce your insurance if you have one and thus essentially pay for itself. You can purchase one on Amazon, I recommend the Viper security system without remote start because it’s less expensive and less complicated to install. If you want a security system with a remote start or don’t want to install the system yourself, it might be a good idea to get it done at a local shop or Best Buy. You could even buy “The Club” steering wheel lock (yes that thing from the infomercials in the 90’s). Anything you can add to deter a thief is a good investment. Use a GPS tracker Having a GPS tracker hidden in your van and paying a monthly subscription might seem like overkill, but once you have one you’ll wonder how you ever lived without it. If you have a Cerbo GX in your van then you don’t even need to pay for tracking since it’s included in victron’s VRM (Victron Remote Management) portal (you’ll need a GPS antenna). Not only can you monitor your entire system with VRM, but you can also set up a “Geo Fence” and set up notifications to alert you if your van leaves the “Geo-Fence” you created. You’ve invested thousands of dollars in your home on wheels, so why not have something that lets you know where it is at all times? Imagine coming back to your van after a few days away and it’s not where you left it. How would you feel? Now imagine being able to look on your phone to locate it and letting the police know exactly where it is…sounds like a much better outcome. I do a lot of backpacking and travel a lot away from the van and it gives me a warm fuzzy feeling to be able to look at my phone and know where my van is. I personally use the Cerbo GX since it’s already in my system and it’s free. If you don’t have a Cerbo GX then you can check out the Tracki. It’s inexpensive and has great reviews. The monthly subscription is pretty competitively priced as well at around $12/month and it may pay for itself if your insurance carrier offers a discount on your premium for having it. *side note: if you are going backpacking or doing a lot of long-distance hiking, you should also invest in a Garmin In-Reach. It’s different than a GPS tracker that you would hide in your car. It has an SOS beacon for search and rescue and syncs with your phone so you can stay on the trail, receive weather alerts, and a ton of other features. Buy a fire extinguisher You’re probably going to be cooking in your van and maybe you have candles. Maybe your engine catches on fire. It would really suck if your van caught on fire and you didn’t have something as basic as a fire extinguisher to take care of it quickly. You’ve invested thousands of dollars into your van build, invest a few more dollars on a fire extinguisher. When the first question everyone asks is “why didn’t you have a fire-extinguisher?” you’ll feel pretty silly if you don’t. Protecting Yourself: Lock your door each night This one is pretty basic, but sometimes I forget too. Get in the habit of checking and double-checking. I keep my key on the countertop next to my bed every night. Update your Social Media on a Delay It’s a good practice to wait until you’ve left a location to post it on social media. In addition to that, it’s always a good practice to never let anyone (except friends and family) know exactly where you’re camping or how long you’ll be camping there. Putting something masculine that suggests police or military in your dash or outside your van. If you’re a solo female traveler it can’t hurt to display something that would make a would-be, shady creeper think there is a 6’4” 250-pound Navy Seal in the van with you. If you’re a solo traveler in general, you can also put out two camping chairs out at your campsite so that any unwelcome visitors will think someone else is traveling with you. Get a dog (Adopt don’t shop!) Dogs have far better hearing, smell and instincts than humans. If a dog senses danger the will most likely alert you. If it’s a big enough dog, it will even be able to protect you. Even if it’s a seven-pound Yorkie, it will probably make enough noise to alert you that someone is outside and make a shady creeper think twice about breaking in. If you do get a dog, please consider investing in a Ruuvi which allows you to monitor conditions inside your van remotely through Victron’s VRM portal. The Ruuvi also has a motion sensor which might come in handy as well. Affinity Plate I purchased a “Support Law Enforcement” license plate from my state (Florida). It has a little badge on the plate and I can’t be sure that a thief has ever seen my plate and decided to pass on breaking into my van, but I don’t think it hurts. I also think this plate goes a long way toward interactions with the police whether it be violating obscure city ordinances or getting out of traffic infractions. Keep self-defense items close to your bed It’s a good idea to keep self-defense items near your bed. I do this in the unlikely event that someone actually gets into my van when I’m asleep. Maybe I forgot to lock my doors or maybe they used a slim jim, regardless of how someone could get in, I like to be prepared. A taser, butcher’s knife, large machete, or bear spray in a drawer next to your bed would be perfectly reasonable. Some people might want to have a handgun and that’s fine too. Whatever you feel comfortable with is perfectly fine as long as you’re prepared to use it. Take a self-defense course Speaking of being prepared to use your designated self-defense items, it’s a good idea to take a self-defense course. I like to learn a couple of new skills every year and a self-defense course would be a great way to get started with this annual practice. If you are a female, having self-defense skills is an excellent way to neutralize the size advantage a male attacker might have on you. Keep alert items close to your bed In addition to self-defense items, you should keep your cell phone, a pocket alarm, your keys, and a strong flashlight close to your bed. Obviously, you’ll want your phone close to you in case you need to call 9-1-1. A pocket alarm is a device that makes a loud alarm noise when triggered. If you don’t have a panic button on your anti-theft system I recommended above then I recommend this as the next best option. It’s a good practice to keep your keys next to your bed for a few reasons. First, it’s good to know where your keys are in case of an emergency, and keeping them in the same place each night is good practice. Second, if you need to move your van in a hurry or in an emergency you can grab them quickly and go. Lastly, if you bought the anti-theft system I recommended above, you can hold down the star button to activate panic mode if there is suspicious activity outside. A powerful flashlight is always a good, inexpensive thing to have if you want to shine it outside to get a look at what’s going on outside. If you can afford floodlights outside your van, then I recommend those too. At the very least you should get a powerful flashlight. Many times it’s darker outside than it is inside and it can be difficult to see outside without a flashlight. Updating family or friends You should make it a habit of letting someone you trust know where you are on a daily basis via call or text. You can call them your Guardian Angel and it will make them feel special. Let them know that if they don’t hear from you for a couple of consecutive days to check in on you. Hopefully, you have a friend or family member you trust who cares about you and will probably be doing this anyways without asking. It’s also very smart to give that person or multiple people your location via your phone or via that GPS tracker you bought from my suggestion above. The GPS tracker doesn’t necessarily let the person know you’re ok, but in a worst-case scenario, they will at least know where you are and can let the authorities know to check on you. Have a lockable wall/door to separate your cockpit from your living cabin The extra benefit is that it will provide additional climate and sound control as most of the temperature fluctuations and noise in a van are let in by the windows and windshield in the cockpit area. Park smart (especially when urban/city vanlifing) Park in a way that allows you to drive away quickly (don’t forget to close all your cabinets before you go to bed or the items inside will fall out when you’re making your escape). To ensure a quick exit, you don’t want to leave anything on your driver’s seat either. You don’t really want to leave anything of value on your seats, dashboard or in plain view from the windows for that matter. If you’re parking in the city, choose a well-lit area in a decent part of the city. Don’t park in an industrial area, you know like the area the villain in a Batman movie would have his headquarters? Don’t park in the hood either…if you see drug addicts, non-artistic graffiti, abandoned houses, or stray dogs…you’re in the hood. See if there are any designated areas or Harvest Host locations around. Come back later (especially when urban/city vanlifing) I like to scout out a few areas during the daytime to get my bearings, know my surroundings and make sure it’s going to be a decent area. I will then come back, later in the night after I’ve done my nightly routine. I like to do my nightly routine somewhere other than where I’m sleeping so that I don’t attract attention to myself or my van unnecessarily. Invest in a dangerous gas detector This is a must-have for anyone doing vanlife. It doesn’t matter if you don’t have a propane tank or a heater. Don’t mess with fate. Something like an inexpensive smoke and carbon monoxide detector could literally save your life. Invest in an exterior camera / light system As mentioned above, if you can afford an exterior camera or floodlight system, then by all means go for it. I know that this is beyond most people’s budget and it might be a tad bit overkill, but as the saying goes…whatever helps you sleep at night (literally). Make a nightly routine using all the above information (mainly for urban/city vanlifing): Scout a safe, well-lit location (to come back to later). Go somewhere else to get ready for bed (don’t attract attention). Put up window covers at dusk so people can’t see inside (for city and campsites). Make sure you don’t leave valuables sitting in view. Display something like a “Navy Seal Hat” or “Police Decal” Return and park in a manner that allows you to pull away quickly. Double-check the area. Visually inspect to make sure it’s safe. Let your Guardian Angel know your location. Make sure you set your alarm, lock your doors, have a weapon near your bed, and leave your key in a convenient location. Vanlife Outfitters has been supporting DIY camper van builders since 2016. We have a large collection of blog posts, videos, tips, resources, information and products to help you on your journey into vanlife. We are experts in all things vanlife and we have a store that features all of our recommended and road-tested products. If you got any useful information from our site please let us know…and if you’re in the market for products to build out a van please consider supporting our store!