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Camper Van Drains and Grey Tank Plumbing Overview Video
In this video Zach talks about his least favorite part of a camper van build: plumbing. Specifically drain plumbing and grey water storage. He’s (clearly) no expert but we get a lot of questions about this topic so we thought we’d give it a shot and hope that some of this information is helpful to other “plumbing-challenged” DIY builders. We prefer to use flexible, marine-grade hose for routing drain lines. If you’re converting a Promaster van, our custom-molded grey water tank can make this less miserable for you!
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Webasto Air Top 2000 vs. EVO 40 Comparison
In this short video we compare the two most popular Webasto gasoline heaters for camper vans and RVs: the Air Top 2000 STC and the Air Top EVO 40. We sell both of these in our store! You might also be interested in our Deep Dive on Altitude Adjustments and More with Senior Webasto video.
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Camper Van Electrical System with Victron Smart Batteries and External BMS
Jump To Wiring Diagram Download Best Price Product Bundle Overview In this post we’re going to dive into how to wire up a Victron Energy based camper van electrical system that uses their Smart lithium batteries which require an external BMS and provide two free wiring diagrams. The Smart lithium batteries are available in a variety of sizes/capacities but we prefer the 200 amp hour and 330 amp hour versions. Update 2025: Victron how offers NG battery systems that have replaced the Smart systems. You might also want to check out this video tour of a system based off this design. FREE Camper Van Power System Resources & Wiring Diagrams If you’re confused about your DIY camper van electrical or solar system, you’ve come to the right place. We have tons of resources including blog posts, videos and detailed example wiring diagrams (see below), Our “choosing a system” page offers some additional advice and includes an example load calculation that you can use. First, what is a BMS? In short, Battery Management Systems (BMS) listen to the batteries and are the device in charge of protecting them from being overly charged (over voltage), too discharged (under voltage), too hot or too cold. Want to know more? Check out this deep dive video – but then remember to come back! External BMS Trade Offs In contrast to Victron’s SuperPack batteries or other popular battery brands like SOK that have built-in BMS systems, Victron’s Smart batteries use an external BMS. Advantages 1) You can fit more power into a smaller space. The footprint of a Smart battery is about half that of an internal BMS SuperPack battery. So, you can fit 200 amp hours of storage into the same physical space as a 100 amp hour battery. 2) Higher current. The external BMS Smart batteries have substantially higher maximum continuous charging and discharging specifications. The SuperPack batteries (internal BMS) are rated at 100 amps continuous for charging and discharging whereas the Smart batteries (external BMS) can handle twice that (200 amps continuous). This allows the batteries to be charged rapidly if you have a high-current charging source (like a secondary alternator) and, probably more importantly in the context of vans, it allows you to run large loads, like a MultiPlus inverter/charger, off fewer batteries. Consider that the most popular Victron inverter/charger (the MultiPlus 12/3000/120) pulls well over 200 amps when outputting 3000 watts of AC and can go over 400 amps briefly when surging to 6000 of inverted AC. Often these inverters are tasked with running an induction cooktop and a microwave plus other loads simultaneously. If you are using batteries that max out at 100 amps continuous discharge, you would need 4x of them, wired in parallel to support that load. Switch to the external BMS, Smart lithium batteries and you only need 2x. 3) More finite control. Externalizing the BMS and using the types of devices that we discuss in this post enable much more control on how your power system will respond to the battery state. Here again, this adds complexity, but also adds features. For some folks this will be an advantage and for others, well, not so much. 4) If your BMS dies, you don’t have to replace the battery. As you probably know already, batteries are one of the most expensive parts of a power system. Externalizing the BMS allows you to replace that single part if it dies/breaks. If the BMS is built into the batteries you may have to replace the entire battery. 5) Higher voltage systems. Most of our customers prefer the simplicity of a 12 volt system. But, if you want to install a 48 volt (or higher) system, an external BMS can accommodate that in a way the built-in batteries may not. VE.Bus BMS vs. Lynx Smart BMS When using Victron Energy’s Smart Lithium batteries that require an external BMS, we typically use either the “simple” and affordable VE.Bus BMS or, in some cases, the more expensive but “fancier” (more feature-rich) Lynx Smart BMS. This post covers both and includes a free wiring diagram for both as well. Both BMS options accomplish the main goal of protecting the battery. The Lynx Smart BMS has the following advanced features: It has an integrated shunt for battery monitoring so you don’t need a BMV-712 or SmartShunt in the system. It has a built-in 500 amp “contactor” that can disconnect charging/discharging when triggered by the batteries (temp/voltage) to anything that is wired up downstream (wired to the Lynx Distributor that is electrically connected to the “output” of this contactor”. I’ll explain how this is beneficial toward the end of the post. As suggested by its name, the Lynx Smart BMS is part of the Lynx “system”. If you take a look at the photo below you can see how the Lynx Smart BMS bolts onto the Lynx Distributor(s) to create a smart and tidy approach to your entire 12 volt DC bus. By using a Lynx Smart BMS with a Lynx Distributor you can “turn on” the features on the Lynx Distributor that you don’t get without it. There is a RJ10 (phone style) cable included with the Lynx Distributor that you can connect between it and the Lynx Smart BMS. When you do so, the Lynx Distributor will communicate if there is a blown fuse on any of its connections. Bluetooth connectivity. Anything made by Victron Energy with the word “Smart” in the name means that it has a Bluetooth connection that you can use with their VictronConnect app. You get a ton of info and configuration ability from the VictronConnect app with the Lynx Smart BMS including the ability to name each connection on the Lynx Distributor(s) (i.e.: “MultiPlus” or “Solar”) and notifications sent to the app and Cerbo GX if a fuse blows, etc. It has VE.Can connectivity to a Cerbo GX so that you can add CAN bus communication for things like DVCC (more on that below) or secondary alternator charging with something like a Wakespeed WS500 regulator. Wiring Up The Batteries Victron Energy’s Smart lithium batteries have two short, black wires attached to them with 3-conductor M8 connectors. You’ll begin by wiring them together (daisy chained) with these short wires and then use an extension cord (available in various lengths) to wire the string of batteries to the BMS you are using. VE.Bus BMS – Controlling Charging/Discharging On Behalf of the Battery The VE.Bus BMS can control a MultiPlus inverter/charger – which is both a charging and discharging device – through the VE.Bus. There is a VE.Bus connector on the BMS and also on the MultiPlus. This is an RJ45 (ethernet-style) connection. The BMS also has so-called “allow to charge (ATC)” and “allow to discharge (ATD)” connections. These are basically relays that are “normally closed” allowing voltage to flow to the device they are connected to as a sort of “signal”. When the batteries “tell” the BMS they should not be charged or discharged the respective relay “opens” which stops the flow of electricity through the relay. In a van power system, the allow to charge (ATC) is typically used for Orion DC-DC chargers and MPPT solar charge controllers. In the case of the Orion’s, they have something called “engine shutdown detection” which is a feature where they monitor the voltage of the vehicle battery (that they are wired to for charging). When it rises to a certain threshold (around 14 volts but can be adjusted in the settings), it assumes the vehicle is running and, therefore, the vehicle alternator is providing current to the vehicle battery which would mean that it’s safe to charge the “house” batteries without depleting the vehicle battery. When they sense this, the Orion’s turn themselves on and start charging your house batteries. This is awesome, easy and reliable “most of the time”, but suppose the BMS is “told” by the batteries that they shouldn’t be charged (perhaps it’s too cold)? In that scenario we’d want to override this automatic detection. Well, the Orion DC-DC chargers have remote terminals that can be wired up to a toggle switch in order to manually switch them on or off. The BMS can use this remote switch to turn off the unit when necessary – you simply wire up the ATC relay to the remote “H” (high) terminal. In normal circumstances this relay is “closed” (providing signal voltage) and when the BMS (on behalf of the batteries) decides the batteries should not be charged (too cold in our example), that relay “opens” which acts like the toggle switch being turned off thus disabling charging. Below is a photo of two 30 amp Orion DC-DC chargers used in a system. They are wired in parallel for charging at 60 amps total as shown in the example wiring diagrams. The ATC wiring is circled in yellow. Allow To Charge (ATC) With Victron SmartSolar MPPT Controllers There are two ways for the BMS to control the charging output of a Victron Energy SmartSolar controller (such as this 100/50 model shown in our example wiring diagram). They typically come with a VE.Direct port. In systems where using a GX device such as the Cerbo GX paired up with a GX Touch 50 screen, you’ll want to use this VE.Direct port to connect the controller up to the Cerbo GX so that its data can flow into that system. If you’re not using a GX device, you can instead use that VE.Direct port on the solar charge controller similar to the “remote” terminals on an Orion DC-DC charger with the so-called “Victron Energy VE.Direct Non-Inverting Remote On-Off Cable“. One side of that cable is wired to the allow to charge relay on the BMS and the other side has a VE.Direct style plug that can connect up to the solar charge controllers. If you are using a GX device (like our example wiring diagram), you can use something called a Smart BatteryProtect. These are basically high current relays that can turn off the power flowing through them when triggered by something such a BMS (or wired to a switch, etc.). They come in various current ratings but we typically use the 100 amp version. These Smart BatteryProtects (SBPs) have the same kind of remote switch terminals that the Orion DC-DC chargers do which allows you to wire the allow to charge (ATC) relay on the BMS to a similar “H” connection on the SBP’s remote terminals to disable any charging sources connected to/through it. So, in our VE.Bus BMS sample wiring diagram, we show the charging outputs from the solar charge controllers wired up to a SBP and then to the positive bus (Lynx Distributor). Other Loads – Allow to Discharge (ATD) If your charging device doesn’t have anything that can respond to an ATC signal or some other “fancier” mechanism such as the other Victron communication protocols (VE.Bus, VE.Can, etc.), you can use something called a Smart BatteryProtect. These are basically high current relays that can turn off power flowing through them when triggered by a BMS. They come in various current ratings but we typically use the 100 amp version. These Smart BatteryProtects (SBPs) have the same kind of remote switch terminals. So, just like an Orion DC-DC charger, where you could wire up a toggle switch to control their on/off state (allowing current to flow or not), you can also use wire their “H” (high) remote terminal to a BMS ATC (allow to charge) relay. Other Loads – Allow to Discharge (ATD) As mentioned earlier, there are also times where the battery “tells” the BMS that it shouldn’t be discharged as well – typically when the battery is deeply discharged (low voltage) and would be damaged if the loads continue to discharge the battery (if you keep running your refrigerator/lights/fan). The Smart BatteryProtects (SBPs) are useful in this scenario as well. In our example system we show a SBP wired between the Lynx Distributor (DC positive and negative bus bar) and the 12 volt DC load center/fuse box. Then the BMS’ allow to discharge (ATC) relay signal wire is connected to the “H” (high) side of the SBP remote terminal. In this way, the BMS (again, on behalf of the batteries) can disconnect these loads when necessary. Note, if you’re using a Cerbo GX in a system with a VE.Bus BMS, connect the power supply (12VDC positive) to the ower in V+ on the Cerbo GX to the “load disconnect” (ATD) terminal on the VE.Bus BMS. Then, for the VE.Bus connection, use the port “MultiPlus/Quattro” on the VE.Bus BMS – don’t use the “remote panel” port. Using a Lynx Smart BMS We’ve already discussed some of the advantages (extra features) of the Lynx Smart BMS. Now let’s dive into how using it in a power system differs from the VE.Bus BMS. Again, we’re providing an example wiring diagram of a system using both BMS options! The first important thing is that a Lynx Smart BMS needs to be paired up with a “GX Device”. In almost all cases, that GX device would be Victron’s Cerbo GX (we’re working on another blog post about that!). The Lynx SmartBMS is connected via a VE.Can connection to the Cerbo GX which enables some new magic: DVCC… DVCC – Distributed Voltage and Current Control In short, DVCC allows the Lynx Smart BMS to control charging and discharging (as well as charging parameters) through the Cerbo GX on the DVCC capable devices. In a typical van power system those would be a MultiPlus inverter/charger, Victron MPPT solar charge controllers and, perhaps a Wakespeed regulator used with a secondary alternator. In Victron’s words:“Enabling DVCC changes a GX device from a passive monitor into an active controller. The available features and effects of enabling DVCC depend on the type of battery used. The effect also depends on the installed Victron components and their configuration.” With DVCC enabled, the Lynx Smart BMS will automatically configure the “charging profile” for the batteries (adjusts the discharge current, charge current, charge voltage, etc.). Without DVCC, the installer must manually configure all the charging sources in their system. A typical van system will have at least a few charging sources: an inverter/charger, DC-DC chargers and solar charge controllers. Most Victron charging devices can be configured using VictronConnect via Bluetooth. However, MultiPlus inverter/chargers cannot be configured with Bluetooth – instead you must configure via the “VE.Bus” by using a MK3-USB adapter. To further complicate matters, when using a VE.Bus BMS, MultiPlus inverter/charges must be configured using VE.Configure including adding an “assistant” (detailed in this blog post). More about DVCC:https://www.victronenergy.com/media/pg/CCGX/en/dvcc—distributed-voltage-and-current-control.html So, DVCC simplifies the configuration of DVCC compatible chargers (“smart things”). But we still need to consider the “dumb things” that don’t have communication ports (VE.Direct/VE.Can/VE.Bus, etc.). In a van power system, that is stuff like our 12 volt DC loads (fuse box/load center) that were run through the Smart BatteryProtect when using the VE.Bus BMS. The Orion DC-DC charges are also “dumb” in this sense. Remember that one of the features of the Lynx Smart BMS was a 500 amp “contactor”? Here’s where that comes into play. Below (again) is the same illustration we showed earlier detailing how you might wire a system where your batteries are wired in parallel by connecting each to a Lynx Power In (far left). This allows up to 4x batteries to be connected to a combination DC positive and DC negative bus bars. In the middle of the illustration is the Lynx Smart BMS which is electrically connected to the Lynx Distributor on the left (battery connections) and passes their current onto the BMS. Inside the Lynx Smart BMS is the shunt that will monitor your electrical use and report on the state of your battery. Also inside there is that 500 amp “contactor”. Then, on the right side a second Lynx Distributor used for the loads and charging sources. This is also electrically connected to the Lynx Smart BMS and it’s where you’d wire up your inverter/charger, solar controller output, DC-DC charger output, etc. So, if the contactor in the Lynx Smart BMS “opens” the power cannot flow to the right-side Lynx Distributor (loads and charging sources). Keen readers may be realizing something important: both “smart” and “dumb” loads/charging sources are wired to that Lynx Distributor. Since the contactor is controlled by the BMS (well, it is the BMS), it can, therefore (by itself), disconnect charging and loads when the battery “tells” it to. Does this mean you don’t need to use a Smart BatteryProtect for your 12 volt DC loads (wired to the ATD relay) or to wire up the Orion DC-DC chargers to the ATC relay through their remote terminals? Yes, technically it does if you want to keep things as simple as possible. However, the Lynx Smart BMS does have the same kind of ATC and ATD relays that the VE.Bus BMS does but the reason you might want to use them is somewhat nuanced… The contactor in the BMS is triggered to open (cut off power) when the battery cell voltage (there are many cells in each battery that generate the nominal 12 volts) reaches 2.6 volts (a deeply discharged battery bank). Meanwhile the ATD relay would open at the slightly higher battery cell voltage of 2.8 volts. Thus, by wiring up your ATD to something like a Smart BatteryProtect, you can stagger the system shutdown so that you can turn off many of your “non-essential” loads (those connected via a Smart BatteryProtect) prior to the entire system being disabled. So, perhaps you cut off your loads like a fridge/fan/etc. but want to keep monitoring like the Cerbo GX running longer. Or, in marine applications, the use case is a bit more clear – it’s fine to disable the fridge or some lights in a situation where the batteries are dangerously low, but the navigation equipment should continue to operate while we figure out how to get some charge into these batteries! Example Wiring Diagrams One thing we always tell our customers is that there are MANY ways to wire up an electrical system that is safe and functional. Even when you use most of the same or similar components, you can approach the configuration slightly differently. There are a ton of considerations that lead to these small differences – everything from preference to space constraints to budget. Follow this link to gain access to our library of FREE Camper Van Electrical System Wiring Diagrams. Use the PDF files to print/zoom in. After following the link, open the Vanlife Outfitters 12V External BMS Wiring Diagram for our example wiring corresponding with this blog post.
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Van Talks - Episode 1: What is Vanlife and Why Should I Care
In this episode we discuss “What is vanlife and why should I care?” Our guests for this episode were Austin and Janna Jenkins and Mars and Ash Fite (both participants’ info is listed below). The discussion turned out super entertaining and informative and we had many different perspectives (from the family, couple and single vanlifer’s point of views). Some of the topics we discussed were how we all got into vanlife, what are some of the challenges (and also favorite parts) of life on the road, how does everyone make a living, a typical day in the life of a vanlifer, advice for new vanlifers, and much much more. Special Thanks to the panel guests from this episode: Austin & Janna Jenkinshttps://www.instagram.com/austinandjanna/https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0sqJpud9WUrVyo5Xh1_nqQ Mars & Ash Fitehttps://www.instagram.com/thefites/http://www.fitetravels.com/
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A Life of Vanlife - My Journey
A lot of people have encouraged me (Zach) to write a short post about the long strange trip I’ve had with camper vans and, well, the dude abides. Some people don’t believe me but I literally made “houses with wheels” with my Legos on a regular basis. The idea of a moving home intrigued me from a very early age. Growing up, my dad, who was always building and creating things (tinkering as he would put it) had a “VW phase” in which he restored countless VW vans including a few Westfalia campers. I think most of them were from the 60’s and were absolutely beautiful! If only he had kept a few of those. Maybe I can dig up some photos of those some day. Eventually, my family bought a nearly new 1989 Vanagon Westfalia in 1990. This is the car that I learned to drive with! We had a few family road trips in that van and a few more in my teens, including a very memorable excursion with my dad, brother and good friend to Vegas for a Dead show including camping at Circus Circus RV park on the strip. That was 1993 and, later that year, I would purchase my first camper van – a 1971 VW Westfalia. My girlfriend and I spent the next 6 months (or so) preparing that van to travel the USA for about a year (not just Dead tour). So, with the help of my dad – who was the only one of us who knew anything – we rebuilt the engine, updated the camping equipment/interior layout and painted the van red. My first build! Shortly before we hit the road, and without any consideration of the extreme law enforcement scrutiny we would encounter as a result, my girlfriend and another artist friend adorned the van with all manner of hippy/Grateful Dead art and stickers. We would quickly learn that smart hippies, who had been around the block a few times, drove mini vans with D.A.R.E stickers – flying stealth. Anyway, the van was named A Smile From Gondwanaland or just Gondwanaland for short (because that’s so short) and she took us across the country and back at the top speed of 55 mph when the road was flat or downhill. Uphill or on mountain passes we were lucky to get to 15- 20 mph. If you’re old enough, you may remember being stuck behind this red van on a one-lane road with about 65 other cars back in 1994. If so, my apologies. One thing I reflect on about this period of time is how primitive technology was. Nobody had a cell phone and, if you did, it was the size of a briefcase and rarely worked. There was no widely available GPS and certainly no apps. The internet and apps would be years away. I marvel at how simple things were. We had paper maps and our friends and family had no way of knowing where we were or how to get in touch with us. We would use pay phones at rest stops to phone home. Finding campsites was a real chore, sometimes driving down dead-end roads. Today’s vanlifers have literal miracles in their hands connecting them to resources, campsites, gas prices, their friends and family and other vanlifers! Learning About RV Systems We eventually settled in the San Francisco Bay area briefly and then Boulder, Colorado. Getting turned on to the van lifestyle and living on the road for about a year in a very (very) basic camper van combined with my sort of engineering and DIY streak led me to learn about “RV systems” while tinkering with my old Westy trying to upgrade things to be more like a fancy Vanagon Westfalia. I wanted a few more lights, I wanted to add some kind of heat (it’s awfully cold in Colorado), I wanted a refrigerator instead of an icebox. I found a beat up 3-way refrigerator that I could learn with, I explored RV salvage lots, I broke a lot of things, I tried to act like a legitimate buyer when pouring over RV dealership lots and I spent a lot of time at libraries so I could read Trailer Life magazine which is now RV.com (again, pre-internet). I’m pretty sure that I was the only reader of that magazine under the age of 55! Over the course of a few years, I would completely transform that van into what was, essentially a new build. It was also repainted to reduce my run-ins with the police 🙂 Upgrading To 65 MPH (In The Right Conditions) Sometime around 1998 I was able to use my miraculous, newly installed “broadband internet” service (400 kilobits/second – less than half a megabit,) to locate a 1985 Vanagon Westfalia for sale nearby. The seller thought it was likely to need an engine rebuild so I got a pretty good deal and hoped I could figure that out when it blew up. I only had that van for about a year and a half, but I did a bunch of upgrades including adding a secondary (“house”) battery, a small inverter and a catalytic propane heater before someone slowly slid into my slider door at a stoplight on an icy road mid-winter. Winter sucks and I live in Florida now, but that van was “totaled” by the insurance company. I ended up keeping it with the salvage title and selling it to someone who parted her out. Here we are on a road trip to Lake Powell in that van. I think we had just cut out of there without getting stuck in the sands and I was pretty proud of myself or something. I do remember how hot that van was without air conditioning in the desert! Dream Van Sometime around 2003, I had enough dough to buy my dream van – a 1997 Volkswagen Eurovan Camper! This was pretty much the most awesome camper van of its day – well before the availability of the modern high-roof cargo vans like Sprinters and ProMasters. Travel back to the 90’s and join Mike, Kali and Tiger to tell you about the Eurovan Camper in this VHS-quality gem of a video. No longer a Westy, the Eurovan camper was a partnership between Volkwagen who supplied empty cargo vans to Winnebago who then upfitted them into surprisingly European-styled camper vans. This van could keep up with the speed of traffic, it wasn’t prone to perpetual mechanical failures and wasn’t older than I was when I bought it. It was much more like an RV with a real refrigerator, forced air furnace, modest house electrical system with shore power charging. It even had a fancy tank monitoring system, which is something I had long admired about “real” RVs. I did add an inverter and made a few tweaks. It was a great van and it started a tradition of me using my camper vans as cargo vans as well. I have so many great memories adventuring in that van. Here’s a shot of us caravanning with my dad who was driving the Vanagon Westy that I grew up with. Fun fact: he still has this van – it’s basically a part of the family now. Camping in Wyoming in 2007: Panamanian Moon In 2007, I moved to Panama, which is another story. So, I ended up selling the Eurovan Camper to fund building my house inside the crater of an extinct volcano in El Valle de Anton, Panama. Selling a camper van is nothing like unloading a car. First, they tend to hold their value much better and, emotionally, they’re more like a home or a pet. You have so many experiences in these vans! Miles Van Camper – My First Promaster Build By the summer of 2016, I was back in the USA, living in Florida (one avoids going too far north after living in the tropics!) and took a short trip to Colorado. My girlfriend and I borrowed the old family Westy from my dad and took it up to some of my favorite camp spots. True to form, the Westy broke down in a parking lot in Boulder at the end of our trip. Fortunately, Boulder is a great place to have a VW repaired and despite this, my girlfriend – who was brand new to vanlife, caught the bug as well and we talked about future trips. That short trip made me realize how much I missed having a camper van and I started scheming a DIY build. I had been wanting to do a DIY build for years (decades?) and the newer high roof vans seemed perfect for the conversion. There wasn’t nearly as much info out there on the internet and social media in those days, but I started diving into the research and design. I ended up trading in my trusty Honda CRV and buying a brand new ProMaster 2500, 159″ wheel base van. I had never purchased a new car before and I had no idea how I was going to pull of the conversion. I had plenty of doubts and was pretty sure I was getting more insane by the minute. But, I also had years and years of ideas from all of my traveling in vans and I was so excited that this gigantic ProMaster van was big enough for all the things I could only dream about in a VW van – things like a fixed bed, large galley and a shower. Oh my gods, a shower! Through continual persistence and occasional desperation, I figured out how to find the materials I needed and how to stumble my way through my first build – all in my driveway with pretty limited tools and a spare bedroom full of materials. Years of home renovations and learning about and staring at RV/boat systems definitely helped, but it wasn’t easy. My first project on the first build was removing the seats to install the swivel bases…and I striped the bolt. Each time I would learn something “the hard way” I felt compelled to share with the handful of other people I imagined might want to build their own campervan. I was thrilled with my first build and loved how it turned out. And despite how difficult it was, when the conversion was over, I realized how much I enjoyed the process. Toward the end of my first build a friend asked if I had heard of the vanlife Reddit. This was deeply confusing. What is vanlife and why would there be a Reddit for it? It wasn’t until that moment that I realized that there may be more than a handful of people doing these “builds” and I discovered that this stuff I had been passionate about for so many years was becoming an increasingly popular thing. So, I started a blog to share a few things and made a video about that first DIY build. Since then I’ve built out two more vans and now we are in the business of making a DIY camper van easier, faster and more enjoyable. What a long strange trip! Thanks To Everyone Who Forged The Way Some people might read this and think I was early to the “lifestyle,” but that’s far from the real truth. While I was “vanlifing” over 20 years before the term “vanlife” was coined, I was following in the footsteps of the hippies who where influenced by the beats who were inspired by the gypsies and the gypsies must have been turned on by someone else. I’m eternally grateful to everyone who forged the vanlife path for me (not the least of which is my dad) to find and so excited that I have so many more potential friends on the road. Oh, and that technology stuff is really cool too. I hope our blog and store helps others discover vanlife. As we say on our “about page“, there is real magic in the alchemy of adventure, discovery, freedom and challenge that you experience living on the road. With a van you can go just about anywhere – from culturally rich cities to wonderfully desolate deserts, enjoying both the excitement and novelty of travel along with the comfort and security of home.
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How To Get Insurance For Your DIY Camper Van
In this post I’ll be talking about why you should have insurance on your camper van, how to get insurance on your camper van, how to title your van as an RV, who I ultimately chose to insure my van and why I specifically chose them. You’ve spent a lot of time and money building out your dream home on wheels; it’s only natural that you want to make sure all of that time and money wasn’t wasted should anything happen to your van along the way. One goal of vanlife is to maximize your adventures and experiences, so it’s important to be prepared for anything. Houses, cars and personal property are insured for theft, unforeseeable circumstances and accidents…so your van should be too! Let’s be honest, insuring your van isn’t exactly the most exciting facets of vanlife. However, getting insurance on your van is a necessary part of the process so you can hit the road with the peace of mind knowing your van is covered in the event that something goes wrong. I’ve seen a good friend total their van when they hit an elk and luckily they were insured for the full value of their van and build out. Insuring your vehicle in the event of a theft or accident ensures you will be able to continue vanlife, no matter what issues arise on the road ahead. Living in a van comes with a different set of challenges than a “sticks and bricks” home – whether it’s finding a safe place to sleep, seeking out a hot shower, repairs & maintenance, or simply finding wifi or cell signal to get some work done. One of the first challenges you might encounter is finding someone to insure your van. Unfortunately, most standard insurance companies haven’t really caught on to vanlife and don’t yet have solutions for self-built camper vans. At this point you might be asking yourself, what’s the difference between simply getting auto insurance vs. getting RV insurance or camper van insurance? The main difference between standard auto insurance and RV insurance is that RV insurance insures the build out of your rig in addition to the liability and collision coverage you’d get with a standard auto policy. In some cases an RV policy can even cover personal property such as furniture, camping equipment, and other belongings inside the vehicle. Technically a camper van is a “class B RV”, but the problem with RV insurance is that it’s usually only for RV’s specifically built by large corporate build companies like Thor or Winnebago. For custom built and DIY camper vans, you’re going to need something a little more tailored to “vanlife”. I recommend shopping around and talking to agents so you can find the policy that best fits your needs and “understands” the DIY camper van world. I’ve already shopped around and have found one of the best solutions for insuring your camper van on the market. Before I get into the boring steps of how to get insurance for your campervan, I want to save you a little bit of time and let you know why I ended up choosing Roamly, the company that I ultimately decided to insure my camper van with. Roamly was created by Outdoorsy. If you don’t know about Outdoorsy, it’s an platform similar to Airbnb or Turo that allows you to rent your camper van or RV for extra cash. This is important to know because Outdoorsy (and thus Roamly) actually understands vanlife and the needs of vanlifers. I found that Roamly was the best insurance option on the market specifically for vanlifers and skoolies for a few reasons. First of all, Roamly’s policies were the most competitively priced (I also called Allstate and State Farm) but more importantly, they were the most flexible in terms of working with me on what they required to get the policy bound. Second, Roamly was by far the easiest solution and had the least amount of hoops I had to jump through. Many of the other insurance company that I spoke to wanted an invoice from a professional van building company or an established RV company. Other companies I talked to simply didn’t offer insurance (Geico & Progressive) for converted cargo vans or kicked back the policy when they realized that my van was a self-built camper van. Other companies (Allstate and State Farm) wanted way too much in terms of paperwork and photos. The process with Roamly was super simple and the agent was very sharp and extremely familiar with vanlife and had all the answers to my questions. Lastly, another huge bonus benefit of insuring through Roamly is that they are able to provide van/RV owners with a personal policy that allows them to rent out their van on a rental platform (Outdoorsy for example). Most personal insurance carriers have exclusions in the policy documents saying that you void your personal insurance policy if you rent out your vehicle even though the rental platform is what actually covers anything that were to happen during the rental. Generally speaking, there are a few things that are good to have when choosing insurance for your van. Those include: Learn About Laws in Your Specific Location. Some insurance companies require more details based on state laws such as the van’s weight, a statement on the vehicle conversion, or specific testing. Make sure to look up state laws or ask your insurance agent for a list of requirements. RV title (Title your Van as an RV if possible)With your newfound knowledge on what your state requires, you will want to title your vehicle as a motorhome if possible. Although not every insurance company requires it, many do. As mentioned above, most states have hoops (procedures/paperwork/red tape) you must jump through in order to title your van as a motorhome. Each state varies in regards to the amount of hoops you need to jump through to title your vehicle as a motorhome. Some states require a statement, an inspection, photos, a weight slip or all of the above. You’ll need to do research on your specific state, here are some examples. In Florida for example, you need to submit proof of insurance and a “Conversion Affidavit” that certifies that you converted (or had your vehicle converted by someone else) into a motorhome. The letter states that you added a 120 Volt electrical system, a plumbing system OR propane system. You’ll also need to bring the original title, your driver’s license and proof of insurance. That’s all you need to submit in addition to paying Uncle Sam his money and you can walk out the same day with a motorhome title. I did not need a weight slip or anything else! The details are spelled out in this form. My friend Ken has written a good post about how to register your van as an RV in California. At the end of this blog post, I have provided each state’s vehicle registration authority to help you with your research. I also suggest a web search along the lines of “Your State RV or motorhome vehicle title” to find the the laws regulations pertaining to the licensing and registration of home-built campers or RV conversions in your particular state. Take Photos for Security and DocumentationTake detailed photos all around your van including the exterior, interior, and your personal property. Most insurance companies will want to see these photos before binding your policy. Keep these photos stored somewhere you can access such as Dropbox or Google Drive just in case if you wind up needing them to submit a claim. Keep Your Build ReceiptsA good paper trail of everything you purchased for your build and, ideally, anything you store in your rig is crucial for documentation. Most insurance companies will want to see a list or invoices before binding your policy. The list of paperwork insurance companies ask for sometimes can be a little over the top. This includes invoices throughout the building process, labor hours, and a list with receipts of all belongings inside the vehicle. Luckily with the minimalistic lifestyle of vanlife, this isn’t as extensive as property in and stored in the cloud. Get an Appraisal DoneIn some instances, an insurance company or Roamly may want you to have an appraisal done by a third party. This could be a professional van builder. Having an appraisal provides the insurance company with photos as well as an assessment of all the components and features built into the van. It may also let the insurance know of the quality of the van build. An appraisal would be similar to a buildout spec sheet or final invoice that a professional builder would typically give you. Since yours is a DIY van, then an appraisal would be comparable. Your insurance company will most likely let you know if they need this. Consider Investing in an Anti Theft SystemI have an aftermarket anti theft system installed in my van for multiple reasons. In addition to the obvious protection against your van being stolen, it’s nice to have a “panic button” next to you in bed, in case you hear someone lurking outside your van. Also, in many cases it can reduce your insurance premiums enough to pay for itself. There are many options on Amazon and I recommend the Viper security system without remote start because it’s less expensive and less complicated to install. If you want a security system with a remote start or don’t want to install the system yourself, it might be a good idea to get it done at a local shop. Use a GPS trackerHaving a GPS tracker hidden in your van and paying a monthly subscription might seem like overkill, but once you have one you’ll wonder how you ever lived without it. You’ve invested thousands of dollars in your home on wheels, why not have something that lets you know where it is at all times. Imagine coming back to your van after a few days away and it’s not where you left it. How would you feel? Now imagine being able to look on your phone to locate it and letting the police know exactly where it is…sounds like a much better outcome. While not as stealthy, if you use a phone as a hotspot like our recommended Visible internet service, you can use the “find my phone” feature to also find your van! I do a lot of backpacking and often trek quite far from the van and it gives me a warm fuzzy feeling to be able to look at my phone and know where my van is. I personally use the Tracki which is inexpensive and has great reviews. The monthly subscription is pretty competitively priced as well at around $12/month and it may pay for itself if your insurance carrier offers a discount on your premium for having it. Hopefully this blog post was useful to you. If you would like to reach out with questions or comments please contact us. List of Licensing Authorities for all USA States AlabamaAlabama Department of Revenue–Motor Vehicle Division AlaskaAlaska Department of Administration–Division of Motor Vehicles ArizonaArizona Department of Transportation ArkansasArkansas Department of Finance and Administration CaliforniaCalifornia Department of Motor Vehicles ColoradoColorado Department of Revenue–Division of Motor Vehicles ConnecticutConnecticut Department of Motor Vehicles DelawareDelaware Division of Motor Vehicles District of ColumbiaDC Department of Motor Vehicles FloridaFlorida Department of Highway Safety and Motor Vehicles GeorgiaGeorgia Department of Revenue–Motor Vehicle Division HawaiiHawaii Department of Transportation–Public Affairs IdahoIdaho Division of Motor Vehicles IllinoisIllinois Secretary of State–Vehicle Services Department IndianaIndiana Bureau of Motor Vehicles IowaIowa Motor Vehicle Division KansasKansas Department of Revenue–Division of Motor Vehicles KentuckyKentucky Transportation Cabinet–Division of Motor Vehicle Licensing LouisianaLouisiana Office of Motor Vehicles MaineMaine Department of the Secretary of State–Bureau of Motor Vehicles MarylandMaryland Department of Transportation–Motor Vehicle Administration MassachusettsMassachusetts Department of Transportation–Registry of Motor Vehicles MichiganMichigan Secretary of State MinnesotaMinnesota Department of Public Safety–Driver and Vehicle Services Division MississippiMississippi Motor Vehicle Commission MissouriMissouri Department of Revenue–Motor Vehicle Titling & Registration MontanaMontana Department of Justice–Driver Services NebraskaNebraska Department of Motor Vehicles NevadaNevada Department of Motor Vehicles New HampshireNew Hampshire Department of Safety–Division of Motor Vehicles New JerseyNew Jersey Motor Vehicle Commission New MexicoNew Mexico Motor Vehicle Division New YorkNew York State Department of Motor Vehicles North CarolinaNorth Carolina Department of Transportation–Division of Motor Vehicles North DakotaNorth Dakota Department of Transportation OhioOhio Department of Public Safety ‐ Bureau of Motor Vehicles OklahomaOklahoma Tax Commission–Motor Vehicle Information OregonOregon Department of Transportation ‐ Division of Motor Vehicles PennsylvaniaPennsylvania Department of Transportation–Driver and Vehicle Services Rhode IslandRhode Island Department of Revenue ‐ Division of Motor Vehicles South CarolinaSouth Carolina Department of Motor Vehicles South DakotaSouth Dakota Department of Revenue and Regulations–Motor Vehicles Division TennesseeTennessee Department of Revenue–Vehicle Title & Registration TexasTexas Department of Motor Vehicles UtahUtah Division of Motor Vehicles VermontVermont Agency of Transportation–Department of Motor Vehicles VirginiaCommonwealth of Virginia Department of Motor Vehicles WashingtonWashington Department of Licensing West VirginiaWest Virginia Department of Transportation–Division of Motor Vehicles WisconsinWisconsin Department of Transportation ‐ Division of Motor Vehicles WyomingWyoming Department of Transportation
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Camper Van Insulation - Thinsulate vs. Wool
Odd as it sounds, what to use for insulating your van has become known for being one of the more controversial vanlife topics in the community. Perhaps second only to the great indoor shower (or no shower) debate. Insulation is a hot topic for good reason. It’s important to have good insulation because it helps to prevent heat from rising inside the camper van during hotter months and prevents heat from escaping during cooler months and quiets the ride. Choosing what type of insulation is also one of the first (of hundreds) of decisions to make when planning your van build. There are numerous vanlife insulation options for custom van builds and van conversions, as well as various methods for installing them. When choosing the right type of insulation for your van, it is important to understand the differences and compare van insulation options. The insulation you choose will become the core foundation for the climate and noise control of your van. There are several different types of insulation options to choose from. They range from fiberglass insulation, spray foam, polyiso board, Thinsulate, wool, mineral wool and even recycled denim! In this blog post, we will discuss two of the most popular types of insulation that most vanlifers and professional van builders use in their van builds. Thinsulate insulation is made from a type of insulating synthetic fiber, and it’s a thermal type of insulation. It is manufactured by 3M, a company who has been in business for over 100 years and has an excellent reputation. Thinsulate has undergone rigorous testing, studies and quality control. Thinsulate has an excellent name brand, is often used in thermal clothing and was once marketed as a more cost-effective option to down material. Most of the puffy jackets and sleeping bags that professional mountaineers use are made with Thinsulate or a similar synthetic material. The word Thinsulate describes the type of material, as it is thin and insulate. Thinsulate is considered superior to wool insulation for a few reasons. Thinsulate is hydrophobic which means it doesn’t absorb moisture and it repels it. It’s also non-toxic and easy to install. Most people install Thinsulate with 3M 90 spray adhesive, but, like many things these days it’s in short supply and hard to find (this post was written in mid-2021). We reached out to our 3M rep and asked what alternatives might work. He said that 3M 76, 77, or 78 spray adhesives might work but may be a little slower to dry. Also, double sided tape is often used and in automotive applications, hot melt glue is used. Another suggestion was to source 3M 90 adhesive in cans, buckets or tubs from places like Grainger. This could be easier to find and potentially less expensive as well if you’re insulating your entire van but you would need a sprayer. Then there is wool. Most wool insulation options are known to absorb some moisture, and if (when?) it does it looses some of it’s insulating capacity. Wool is often treated with boric acid, a type of insect repellent. Most manufacturers disclose that wool insulation must be treated with this additive to reduce flammability and repel insects. However, this additive is considered to be poisonous if it is to be ingested and it can also cause irritations to the body, more specifically the nose, throat, eyes and skin. If you decide to install this type of insulation, it is important to wear protective gear and follow recommended procedures from the manufacturer. Also, since wool comes from a sheep…it smells like a barnyard. That smell eventually goes away but not for several months up to a year. I personally can’t stand the smell. Thinsulate is odorless. And for those who are concerned, wool is not a vegan product and is not cruelty free. In some cases, during the production and processes of obtaining wool, sheep are not always treated well. In the wild, sheep know how to take care of their wool, such as growing enough for winter months and shedding unnecessary excess wool during the summer months. However, in captivity, sheep are being bred to constantly produce more and more wool. This is making them much more susceptible to overheating or heatstroke and is the reason why sheep are needing to be sheared more often. Some sheep are being sheared carelessly and this is leading to wounds, pain and avoidable injuries. All sheep are eventually killed when their production decreases or if they become too old or sick. Finally, wool insulation is a little more difficult to install and requires either holding the material up with tape/string or partially installing your walls and stuffing the material inside. Now that you understand what each product is and how it’s manufactured or harvested and installed, let’s discuss the insulative properties of each and the costs associated with both. R-ValueThinsulate SM600L comes in 1.6” thickness and has an R-value of 3.25 per inch. The total R-value of the 1.6” material is 5.2 (3.25 x 1.6”). If you wanted to double up the Thinsulate, you’re R-value would be 10.4, however we feel that one layer of Thinsulate combined with a radiant barrier (Low-E) and air gaps is more than enough insulation Most wool for vans comes in 2” thickness and has an R-value of 3.5 per inch. The major US supplier of Wool insulation sells it in 2” batts and therefore it has an overall R value of 7 (3.5 x 2”). CostThe costs of Thinsulate and wool are pretty much equal, and the Thinsulate in our store includes free shipping. Final VerdictWe recommend Thinsulate over wool for it’s superior moisture management, ease of installation, non-toxic properties and the fact that animals aren’t mistreated in its production.
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Programming a Victron MultiPlus Inverter/Charger With a VE.Bus BMS
UPDATE – in October of 2021, Victron Energy released version 489 (xxxx489) of the firmware for MultiPlus inverter/chargers. According the release notes, if you use this firmware, “there is no need to use the VE.Bus BMS assistant anymore.” Below, in italics, are the notes regarding this, taken from the changelog file from Victron Energy. Using this new firmware results in practically the same behaviour as previously when using the Assistant. As soon as the Multi (or Quattro) sees the VE.Bus BMS, and the (new) checkbox called “Configured for VE.Bus BMS” is not checked yet, it will automatically configure itself. The settings then auto-configured are: The (new) ”Configured for VE.Bus BMS” setting is set, meaning that it will no longer charge in case it doesn’t see the VE.Bus BMS anymore. In more detail: it will go through passthrough when AC is present, and switches off if there is no AC BMS. This is a safety feature. Battery type is set to lithium Absorption voltage is set to 14.2V, Float to 13.5 Maximum absorption time to 60 minutes Charge curve fixed (but reduced float is disabled, the settings “repeated absorption time” and “repeated absorption interval” are changed but ignored) Storage mode is unchecked State of charge when bulk is finished: 95% Charge efficiency: 95% Temperature compensation is disabled. The recommended way to commission such system is to: update the firmware install and connect the VE.Bus BMS unplug the VE.Bus BMS and wait for the Multi to switch to passthrough/switch off. This step ensures that the Multi has properly detected the VE.Bus BMS. Reinsert the VE.Bus BMS. Finished, or optionally connect with VictronConnect and make the rest of the configuration. Related changes: The VE.Bus BMS Assistant, when installed on this new firmware, will issue a warning, that it needs no longer to be installed. (It will be harmless if it is). The ESS Assistant as well as some others, with integrated VE.Bus BMS functionality are updated and will work with both old firmware & new firmware. I recommending using the VictronConnect app to program/configure your Victron MultiPlus inverter/charger. We detail how to do that in this post. So, you can go through that process and then come back here for one additional step required when using a VE.Bus BMS – the addition of an “assistant” for the BMS. This BMS “assistant” is specifically for Victron lithium batteries using the VE.Bus BMS. It allows the BMS to control the MultiPlus inverting and charging. If you have a remote control panel it will work like normal but can be “overridden” by the BMS. Unfortunately, at this time, you cannot add assistants with VictronConnect. Instead you’ll need to use the older, VEConfigure app for Windows. However, just like configuring with VictronConnect, you’ll use the same MK3 to USB interface for connecting your computer to the MultiPlus. This video from Victron is a great overview to using VEConfigure and setting it up with your computer. I recommend checking it out before proceeding. Once you’re connected to your MultiPlus with VEConfigure you’ll want to navigate to the “assistants” tab and then click on the “add assistant” button which will open a menu of available assistants. Choose the “VE.Bus BMS” assistant from the menu. Next, you can press on the “start assistant” button and use the “next arrow” button to proceed through the screens as they are shown below. Once you receive that final confirmation screen you can dismiss it with the “OK” button and you’re done! Note, after you’ve added the BMS “assistant”, the red “low battery” led will flash when the unit is powered on and won’t work until it “sees” the VE.BMS on the VE.Bus. Also, you will not be able to use VictronConnect after you’ve added the “assistant” – instead you’ll have to use VEConfigure. Please consider purchasing your power system equipment from our store. Our bundles offer great pricing (yeah, better than Amazon), free shipping and you’ll have access to expert support and you’ll be supporting our ability to create more content!
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How To Level Your Camper Van
Let’s Talk Leveling… Some of the most beautiful and rugged wilderness camp sites are the most unlevel and often that driveway you snagged at your friend or family’s house has a pretty significant slope. So, in this short post, I’ll explore a few options for leveling your camper van. It’s worth noting that some people simply don’t care if their van is unlevel. I wish I was like them! But, for me, leveling my rig is important to be able to sleep well. Larger motor homes and trailers typically have some sort of leveling system included with the rig but, camper vans don’t so you have to bring something along. Stuff Laying Around Some folks swear by this method. They simply harvest rocks/etc. from the surrounding area, put them under the tires that need to be leveled and voila! The clear benefit to this approach is that it’s entirely free and you don’t need to carry anything with you so it doesn’t use any space inside your van. The obvious down side is that not every camp site is going to support this approach – particularly in urban areas. It’s also a lot harder than it seems to find just the right size objects for leveling and it can be a real hassle to drive onto some of these odd shaped things. Wood Bits You can cut some wood (such as 2″ x 6″ lumber) into short sections (think tire-length strips) and then lay those onto the ground near the tires you need to level and drive up on them. In my view this is the worst option. First it takes up too much precious space in your tiny van. Then it gets really dicey when you need to stack more than one “layer” of boards to level a really wonky camping spot. However, this approach does work for some people and you may even have the scraps of wood laying around ready to repurpose this way. Leveling Blocks The commonly used plastic leveling blocks are like oversized legos. They are 8.5″ x 8.5″ square and 1″ tall. The idea is that you build a sort of pyramid out of the blocks in front of the wheel(s) you need to level and then you drive onto this pyramid. When you’re done they (theoretically) stack up onto each other to stow away into a bag provided with the blocks. Until I discovered the Flat-Jack (more on that below), this was the actually the best option. They were the devil I knew but definitely a freaking devil. There are several things I hated issues with these things. First, camper vans are heavy and you’re using these on unlevel ground so, when you drive up onto them they twist and crack which means they only stack correctly for the first few uses. That makes them hard to set up because you’re trying to use the least damaged blocks on the bottom in order to build your pyramid of blocks. That initial problem is greatly exacerbated by the fact that it’s nearly impossible to drive onto these pyramids and then stop at the exact right space (remember only 8.5″ wide). You are basically juicing the accelerator to get up on the blocks while simultaneously slamming on your brakes. If you get that right – after ten attempts – there’s a good chance your van rolls slightly off when you put it into park! Each attempt to drive onto the blocks smashes them deeper into the ground which is often muddy or sandy while crushing their shape further. So, after you use these things, even a few times, they are so mangled and dirty, they don’t stack up anymore so they end up taking up way more space than they did when they stowed away fully stacked up. The Flat-Jack Cue the angelic music. After years of disappointing experiences with other leveling systems (see above), I discovered there was a thing called the Flat-Jack widely available in Europe but not available here in the USA. So, long story made short, we got in touch with the Flat-Jack folks and became the exclusive seller of these magic air leveling pillows in the US. So, I’m certainly biased, but I think the Flat-Jack is the way to go for camper van leveling. As the name suggest, they store flat so they take up very little space in your van. I have mine stored in mesh pockets attached to my rear doors but they can be easily stashed away in so many places. When you want to use them, you simply lay them on the ground in front of the tire(s) you want to level and then drive onto them. Because they’re flat, this is super simple – all that frustration trying to get up on sets of blocks (or rocks or wood or whatever) goes way. You just lay them on the ground and drive into place. Then you connect up an air compressor or hand pump and inflate to the desired height – all the way up to 4.75″. As you inflate, you can fine tune the leveling in a way that blocks/wood/rocks cannot begin to match. The only real “con” is that they’re expensive. However, if you take into consideration how valuable space is inside a small van and how much frustration they will eliminate I think the value starts to shine through. And, unlike the leveling blocks that essentially self destruct as you use them, these will last a lifetime if you treat them well (don’t overinflate and protect from sharp objects). We’ve only been selling them for a few months UPDATE: for many years now! but we’ve already had very positive feedback from other vanlifers an we encourage you to check them out! A Sassy Video Comparing Leveling Blocks To The Flat-Jack
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