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A Life of Vanlife - My Journey
A lot of people have encouraged me (Zach) to write a short post about the long strange trip I’ve had with camper vans and, well, the dude abides. Some people don’t believe me but I literally made “houses with wheels” with my Legos on a regular basis. The idea of a moving home intrigued me from a very early age. Growing up, my dad, who was always building and creating things (tinkering as he would put it) had a “VW phase” in which he restored countless VW vans including a few Westfalia campers. I think most of them were from the 60’s and were absolutely beautiful! If only he had kept a few of those. Maybe I can dig up some photos of those some day. Eventually, my family bought a nearly new 1989 Vanagon Westfalia in 1990. This is the car that I learned to drive with! We had a few family road trips in that van and a few more in my teens, including a very memorable excursion with my dad, brother and good friend to Vegas for a Dead show including camping at Circus Circus RV park on the strip. That was 1993 and, later that year, I would purchase my first camper van – a 1971 VW Westfalia. My girlfriend and I spent the next 6 months (or so) preparing that van to travel the USA for about a year (not just Dead tour). So, with the help of my dad – who was the only one of us who knew anything – we rebuilt the engine, updated the camping equipment/interior layout and painted the van red. My first build! Shortly before we hit the road, and without any consideration of the extreme law enforcement scrutiny we would encounter as a result, my girlfriend and another artist friend adorned the van with all manner of hippy/Grateful Dead art and stickers. We would quickly learn that smart hippies, who had been around the block a few times, drove mini vans with D.A.R.E stickers – flying stealth. Anyway, the van was named A Smile From Gondwanaland or just Gondwanaland for short (because that’s so short) and she took us across the country and back at the top speed of 55 mph when the road was flat or downhill. Uphill or on mountain passes we were lucky to get to 15- 20 mph. If you’re old enough, you may remember being stuck behind this red van on a one-lane road with about 65 other cars back in 1994. If so, my apologies. One thing I reflect on about this period of time is how primitive technology was. Nobody had a cell phone and, if you did, it was the size of a briefcase and rarely worked. There was no widely available GPS and certainly no apps. The internet and apps would be years away. I marvel at how simple things were. We had paper maps and our friends and family had no way of knowing where we were or how to get in touch with us. We would use pay phones at rest stops to phone home. Finding campsites was a real chore, sometimes driving down dead-end roads. Today’s vanlifers have literal miracles in their hands connecting them to resources, campsites, gas prices, their friends and family and other vanlifers! Learning About RV Systems We eventually settled in the San Francisco Bay area briefly and then Boulder, Colorado. Getting turned on to the van lifestyle and living on the road for about a year in a very (very) basic camper van combined with my sort of engineering and DIY streak led me to learn about “RV systems” while tinkering with my old Westy trying to upgrade things to be more like a fancy Vanagon Westfalia. I wanted a few more lights, I wanted to add some kind of heat (it’s awfully cold in Colorado), I wanted a refrigerator instead of an icebox. I found a beat up 3-way refrigerator that I could learn with, I explored RV salvage lots, I broke a lot of things, I tried to act like a legitimate buyer when pouring over RV dealership lots and I spent a lot of time at libraries so I could read Trailer Life magazine (again, pre-internet). I’m pretty sure that I was the only reader of that magazine under the age of 55! Over the course of a few years, I would completely transform that van into what was, essentially a new build. It was also repainted to reduce my run-ins with the police 🙂 Upgrading To 65 MPH (In The Right Conditions) Sometime around 1998 I was able to use my miraculous, newly installed “broadband internet” service (400 kilobits/second – less than half a megabit,) to locate a 1985 Vanagon Westfalia for sale nearby. The seller thought it was likely to need an engine rebuild so I got a pretty good deal and hoped I could figure that out when it blew up. I only had that van for about a year and a half, but I did a bunch of upgrades including adding a secondary (“house”) battery, a small inverter and a catalytic propane heater before someone slowly slid into my slider door at a stoplight on an icy road mid-winter. Winter sucks and I live in Florida now, but that van was “totaled” by the insurance company. I ended up keeping it with the salvage title and selling it to someone who parted her out. Here we are on a road trip to Lake Powell in that van. I think we had just cut out of there without getting stuck in the sands and I was pretty proud of myself or something. I do remember how hot that van was without air conditioning in the desert! Dream Van Sometime around 2003, I had enough dough to buy my dream van – a 1997 Volkswagen Eurovan Camper! This was pretty much the most awesome camper van of its day – well before the availability of the modern high-roof cargo vans like Sprinters and ProMasters. Travel back to the 90’s and join Mike, Kali and Tiger to tell you about the Eurovan Camper in this VHS-quality gem of a video. No longer a Westy, the Eurovan camper was a partnership between Volkwagen who supplied empty cargo vans to Winnebago who then upfitted them into surprisingly European-styled camper vans. This van could keep up with the speed of traffic, it wasn’t prone to perpetual mechanical failures and wasn’t older than I was when I bought it. It was much more like an RV with a real refrigerator, forced air furnace, modest house electrical system with shore power charging. It even had a fancy tank monitoring system, which is something I had long admired about “real” RVs. I did add an inverter and made a few tweaks. It was a great van and it started a tradition of me using my camper vans as cargo vans as well. I have so many great memories adventuring in that van. Here’s a shot of us caravanning with my dad who was driving the Vanagon Westy that I grew up with. Fun fact: he still has this van – it’s basically a part of the family now. Camping in Wyoming in 2007: Panamanian Moon In 2007, I moved to Panama, which is another story. So, I ended up selling the Eurovan Camper to fund building my house inside the crater of an extinct volcano in El Valle de Anton, Panama. Selling a camper van is nothing like unloading a car. First, they tend to hold their value much better and, emotionally, they’re more like a home or a pet. You have so many experiences in these vans! Miles Van Camper – My First Promaster Build By the summer of 2016, I was back in the USA, living in Florida (one avoids going too far north after living in the tropics!) and took a short trip to Colorado. My girlfriend and I borrowed the old family Westy from my dad and took it up to some of my favorite camp spots. True to form, the Westy broke down in a parking lot in Boulder at the end of our trip. Fortunately, Boulder is a great place to have a VW repaired and despite this, my girlfriend – who was brand new to vanlife, caught the bug as well and we talked about future trips. That short trip made me realize how much I missed having a camper van and I started scheming a DIY build. I had been wanting to do a DIY build for years (decades?) and the newer high roof vans seemed perfect for the conversion. There wasn’t nearly as much info out there on the internet and social media in those days, but I started diving into the research and design. I ended up trading in my trusty Honda CRV and buying a brand new ProMaster 2500, 159″ wheel base van. I had never purchased a new car before and I had no idea how I was going to pull of the conversion. I had plenty of doubts and was pretty sure I was getting more insane by the minute. But, I also had years and years of ideas from all of my traveling in vans and I was so excited that this gigantic ProMaster van was big enough for all the things I could only dream about in a VW van – things like a fixed bed, large galley and a shower. Oh my gods, a shower! Through continual persistence and occasional desperation, I figured out how to find the materials I needed and how to stumble my way through my first build – all in my driveway with pretty limited tools and a spare bedroom full of materials. Years of home renovations and learning about and staring at RV/boat systems definitely helped, but it wasn’t easy. My first project on the first build was removing the seats to install the swivel bases…and I striped the bolt. Each time I would learn something “the hard way” I felt compelled to share with the handful of other people I imagined might want to build their own campervan. I was thrilled with my first build and loved how it turned out. And despite how difficult it was, when the conversion was over, I realized how much I enjoyed the process. Toward the end of my first build a friend asked if I had heard of the vanlife Reddit. This was deeply confusing. What is vanlife and why would there be a Reddit for it? It wasn’t until that moment that I realized that there may be more than a handful of people doing these “builds” and I discovered that this stuff I had been passionate about for so many years was becoming an increasingly popular thing. So, I started a blog to share a few things and made a video about that first DIY build. Since then I’ve built out two more vans and now we are in the business of making a DIY camper van easier, faster and more enjoyable. What a long strange trip! Thanks To Everyone Who Forged The Way Some people might read this and think I was early to the “lifestyle,” but that’s far from the real truth. While I was “vanlifing” over 20 years before the term “vanlife” was coined, I was following in the footsteps of the hippies who where influenced by the beats who were inspired by the gypsies and the gypsies must have been turned on by someone else. I’m eternally grateful to everyone who forged the vanlife path for me (not the least of which is my dad) to find and so excited that I have so many more potential friends on the road. Oh, and that technology stuff is really cool too. I hope our blog and store helps others discover vanlife. As we say on our “about page“, there is real magic in the alchemy of adventure, discovery, freedom and challenge that you experience living on the road. With a van you can go just about anywhere – from culturally rich cities to wonderfully desolate deserts, enjoying both the excitement and novelty of travel along with the comfort and security of home.
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How To Get Insurance For Your DIY Camper Van
In this post I’ll be talking about why you should have insurance on your camper van, how to get insurance on your camper van, how to title your van as an RV, who I ultimately chose to insure my van and why I specifically chose them. You’ve spent a lot of time and money building out your dream home on wheels; it’s only natural that you want to make sure all of that time and money wasn’t wasted should anything happen to your van along the way. One goal of vanlife is to maximize your adventures and experiences, so it’s important to be prepared for anything. Houses, cars and personal property are insured for theft, unforeseeable circumstances and accidents…so your van should be too! Let’s be honest, insuring your van isn’t exactly the most exciting facets of vanlife. However, getting insurance on your van is a necessary part of the process so you can hit the road with the peace of mind knowing your van is covered in the event that something goes wrong. I’ve seen a good friend total their van when they hit an elk and luckily they were insured for the full value of their van and build out. Insuring your vehicle in the event of a theft or accident ensures you will be able to continue vanlife, no matter what issues arise on the road ahead. Living in a van comes with a different set of challenges than a “sticks and bricks” home – whether it’s finding a safe place to sleep, seeking out a hot shower, repairs & maintenance, or simply finding wifi or cell signal to get some work done. One of the first challenges you might encounter is finding someone to insure your van. Unfortunately, most standard insurance companies haven’t really caught on to vanlife and don’t yet have solutions for self-built camper vans. At this point you might be asking yourself, what’s the difference between simply getting auto insurance vs. getting RV insurance or camper van insurance? The main difference between standard auto insurance and RV insurance is that RV insurance insures the build out of your rig in addition to the liability and collision coverage you’d get with a standard auto policy. In some cases an RV policy can even cover personal property such as furniture, camping equipment, and other belongings inside the vehicle. Technically a camper van is a “class B RV”, but the problem with RV insurance is that it’s usually only for RV’s specifically built by large corporate build companies like Thor or Winnebago. For custom built and DIY camper vans, you’re going to need something a little more tailored to “vanlife”. I recommend shopping around and talking to agents so you can find the policy that best fits your needs and “understands” the DIY camper van world. I’ve already shopped around and have found one of the best solutions for insuring your camper van on the market. Before I get into the boring steps of how to get insurance for your campervan, I want to save you a little bit of time and let you know why I ended up choosing Roamly, the company that I ultimately decided to insure my camper van with. Get a quote from Roamly Roamly is a subsidiary of Outdoorsy. If you don’t know about Outdoorsy, it’s an platform similar to Airbnb or Turo that allows you to rent your camper van or RV for extra cash. This is important to know because Outdoorsy (and thus Roamly) actually understands vanlife and the needs of vanlifers. I found that Roamly was the best insurance option on the market specifically for vanlifers and skoolies for a few reasons. First of all, Roamly’s policies were the most competitively priced (I also called Allstate and State Farm) but more importantly, they were the most flexible in terms of working with me on what they required to get the policy bound. Get a quote from Roamly Second, Roamly was by far the easiest solution and had the least amount of hoops I had to jump through. Roamly is the only insurance carrier in the country that is insuring self-built (DIY) vans* that aren’t built by a professional van building company. Every other insurance company that I spoke to wanted an invoice from a professional van building company or an established RV company. Other companies I talked to simply didn’t offer insurance (Geico & Progressive) for converted cargo vans or kicked back the policy when they realized that my van was a self-built camper van. Other companies, (Allstate and State Farm) wanted way too much in terms of paperwork and photos and they were only willing to insure vans built by professional, established van building companies. The process with Roamly was super simple and the agent Melissa was very sharp and extremely familiar with vanlife and had all the answers to my questions. Lastly, another huge bonus benefit of insuring through Roamly is that they are able to provide van/RV owners with a personal policy that allows them to rent out their van on a rental platform (Outdoorsy for example). Most personal insurance carriers have exclusions in the policy documents saying that you void your personal insurance policy if you rent out your vehicle even though the rental platform is what actually covers anything that were to happen during the rental. Important note: Roamly is currently live for self-built (DIY) vans registered in CA, TX, WA, OR, AK, NV, MT, ID, UT, AZ, CO, NM, SD, NE, OK, MN, IA, MO, AR, WI, IL, IN, OH, PA, VA, TN, NC, SC, MS, AL, & GA. However, they are still binding policies as a broker in all other states through their non-Roamly carrier partners. In all other states, you’ll need a build invoice from a professional van build company. Roamly assures me that they are working on bringing their insurance product for self-built (DIY) vans online nationally very soon. “Roamly currently has instituted a moratorium for fulltimer policies. If you are currently living in your rig for 5 or more months out of the year, Roamly will not be able to insure you with a Roamly policy, however, they may still be able to help you find a policy with one of their carrier partners. I still recommend giving them a call to see how they can help you find the best coverage for your van.” Get a quote from Roamly Generally speaking, there are a few things that are good to have when choosing insurance for your van. Those include: Learn About Laws in Your Specific Location. Some insurance companies require more details based on state laws such as the van’s weight, a statement on the vehicle conversion, or specific testing. Make sure to look up state laws or ask your insurance agent for a list of requirements. I hope to aggregate all of this into a another post blog post one day, but it will take a lot of time and may change too frequently to be worth it. RV title (Title your Van as an RV if possible) With your newfound knowledge on what your state requires, you will want to title your vehicle as a motorhome if possible. Although not every insurance company requires it, many do. As mentioned above, most states have hoops (procedures/paperwork/red tape) you must jump through in order to title your van as a motorhome. Each state varies in regards to the amount of hoops you need to jump through to title your vehicle as a motorhome. Some states require a statement, an inspection, photos, a weight slip or all of the above. You’ll need to do research on your specific state, here are some examples. In Florida for example, you need to submit proof of insurance and a “Conversion Affidavit” that certifies that you converted (or had your vehicle converted by someone else) into a motorhome. The letter states that you added a 110v electrical system, a plumbing system OR propane system. You’ll also need to bring the original title, your driver’s license and proof of insurance. That’s all you need to submit in addition to paying Uncle Sam his money and you can walk out the same day with a motorhome title. I did not need a weight slip or anything else! The details are spelled out in this form. My friend Ken has written a good post about how to register your van as an RV in California. At the end of this blog post, I have provided a link to each state’s vehicle registration authority to help you with your research. I also suggest a web search along the lines of “Your State RV or motorhome vehicle title” to find the the laws regulations pertaining to the licensing and registration of home-built campers or RV conversions in your particular state. Take Photos for Security and Documentation Take detailed photos all around your van including the exterior, interior, and your personal property. Most insurance companies will want to see these photos before binding your policy. Keep these photos stored somewhere you can access such as Dropbox or Google Drive just in case if you wind up needing them to submit a claim. Keep Your Build Receipts A good paper trail of everything you purchased for your build and, ideally, anything you store in your rig is crucial for documentation. Most insurance companies will want to see a list or invoices before binding your policy. The list of paperwork insurance companies ask for sometimes can be a little over the top. This includes invoices throughout the building process, labor hours, and a list with receipts of all belongings inside the vehicle. Luckily with the minimalistic lifestyle of vanlife, this isn’t as extensive as property in and stored in the cloud. Get an Appraisal Done In some instances, an insurance company or Roamly may want you to have an appraisal done by a third party. This could be a professional van builder or someone like Vanlife Outfitters. Having an appraisal provides the insurance company with photos as well as an assessment of all the components and features built into the van. It may also let the insurance know of the quality of the van build. An appraisal would be similar to a buildout spec sheet or final invoice that a professional builder would typically give you. Since yours is a DIY van, then an appraisal would be comparable. Your insurance company will most likely let you know if they need this. Consider Investing in an Anti Theft System I have an aftermarket anti theft system installed in my van for multiple reasons. In addition to the obvious protection against your van being stolen, it’s nice to have a “panic button” next to you in bed, in case you hear someone lurking outside your van. Also, in many cases it can reduce your insurance premiums enough to pay for itself. There are many options on Amazon and I recommend the Viper security system without remote start because it’s less expensive and less complicated to install. If you want a security system with a remote start or don’t want to install the system yourself, it might be a good idea to get it done at a local shop. Use a GPS tracker Having a GPS tracker hidden in your van and paying a monthly subscription might seem like overkill, but once you have one you’ll wonder how you ever lived without it. You’ve invested thousands of dollars in your home on wheels, why not have something that lets you know where it is at all times. Imagine coming back to your van after a few days away and it’s not where you left it. How would you feel? Now imagine being able to look on your phone to locate it and letting the police know exactly where it is…sounds like a much better outcome. While not as stealthy, if you use a phone as a hotspot like our recommended Visible internet service, you can use the “find my phone” feature to also find your van! I do a lot of backpacking and often trek quite far from the van and it gives me a warm fuzzy feeling to be able to look at my phone and know where my van is. I personally use the Tracki which is inexpensive and has great reviews. The monthly subscription is pretty competitively priced as well at around $12/month and it may pay for itself if your insurance carrier offers a discount on your premium for having it. Hopefully this blog post was useful to you. If you would like to reach out with questions or comments please do so. Email Josh List of Licensing Authorities for all USA States Alabama Alabama Department of Revenue–Motor Vehicle Division http://www.ador.state.al.us/motorvehicle/index.html Alaska Alaska Department of Administration–Division of Motor Vehicles http://www.doa.alaska.gov/dmv/ Arizona Arizona Department of Transportation http://www.azdot.gov/mvd/ Arkansas Arkansas Department of Finance and Administration http://www.dfa.arkansas.gov/Pages/default.aspx California California Department of Motor Vehicles http://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/home/dmv.htm Colorado Colorado Department of Revenue–Division of Motor Vehicles http://www.colorado.gov/revenue/dmv Connecticut Connecticut Department of Motor Vehicles http://www.ct.gov/dmv/site/default.asp Delaware Delaware Division of Motor Vehicles http://www.dmv.de.gov/ District of Columbia DC Department of Motor Vehicles http://dmv.washingtondc.gov/main.shtm Florida Florida Department of Highway Safety and Motor Vehicles http://www.flhsmv.gov/ Georgia Georgia Department of Revenue–Motor Vehicle Division http://motor.etax.dor.ga.gov/ Hawaii Hawaii Department of Transportation–Public Affairs http://www.state.hi.us/dot/publicaffairs/motorvehicleregistration.htm Idaho Idaho Division of Motor Vehicles http://www.itd.idaho.gov/dmv/ Illinois Illinois Secretary of State–Vehicle Services Department http://www.cyberdriveillinois.com/ Indiana Indiana Bureau of Motor Vehicles http://www.in.gov/bmv/ Iowa Iowa Motor Vehicle Division http://www.iowadot.gov/mvd/index.htm Kansas Kansas Department of Revenue–Division of Motor Vehicles http://www.ksrevenue.org/dmv.htm Kentucky Kentucky Transportation Cabinet–Division of Motor Vehicle Licensing http://transportation.ky.gov/mvl/ Louisiana Louisiana Office of Motor Vehicles http://omv.dps.state.la.us/ Maine Maine Department of the Secretary of State–Bureau of Motor Vehicles http://www.maine.gov/sos/bmv/ Maryland Maryland Department of Transportation–Motor Vehicle Administration http://www.mva.maryland.gov/ Massachusetts Massachusetts Department of Transportation–Registry of Motor Vehicles http://www.massdot.state.ma.us/rmv/ Michigan Michigan Secretary of State https://www.michigan.gov/sos/ Minnesota Minnesota Department of Public Safety–Driver and Vehicle Services Division http://www.dps.state.mn.us/dvs/ Mississippi Mississippi Motor Vehicle Commission http://www.mmvc.state.ms.us/mmvc/MotorVeh.nsf Missouri Missouri Department of Revenue–Motor Vehicle Titling & Registration http://dor.mo.gov/motorv/ Montana Montana Department of Justice–Driver Services http://www.doj.mt.gov/driving/ Nebraska Nebraska Department of Motor Vehicles http://www.dmv.state.ne.us/ Nevada Nevada Department of Motor Vehicles http://dmvnv.com/ New Hampshire New Hampshire Department of Safety–Division of Motor Vehicles http://www.nh.gov/safety/divisions/dmv/ New Jersey New Jersey Motor Vehicle Commission http://www.state.nj.us/mvc/ New Mexico New Mexico Motor Vehicle Division http://www.mvd.newmexico.gov/ New York New York State Department of Motor Vehicles http://www.nydmv.state.ny.us/ North Carolina North Carolina Department of Transportation–Division of Motor Vehicles http://www.ncdot.org/dmv/ North Dakota North Dakota Department of Transportation http://www.dot.nd.gov/ Ohio Ohio Department of Public Safety ‐ Bureau of Motor Vehicles http://bmv.ohio.gov/ Oklahoma Oklahoma Tax Commission–Motor Vehicle Information http://www.tax.ok.gov/motveh.html Oregon Oregon Department of Transportation ‐ Division of Motor Vehicles http://www.oregon.gov/ODOT/DMV/index.shtml Pennsylvania Pennsylvania Department of Transportation–Driver and Vehicle Services http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/ Rhode Island Rhode Island Department of Revenue ‐ Division of Motor Vehicles http://www.dmv.ri.gov/ South Carolina South Carolina Department of Motor Vehicles http://www.scdmvonline.com/DMVNew/default.aspx South Dakota South Dakota Department of Revenue and Regulations–Motor Vehicles Division http://www.state.sd.us/drr2/motorvehicle/index.htm Tennessee Tennessee Department of Revenue–Vehicle Title & Registration http://www.tennessee.gov/revenue/vehicle/index.htm Texas Texas Department of Motor Vehicles http://www.txdmv.gov/ Utah Utah Division of Motor Vehicles http://dmv.utah.gov/ Vermont Vermont Agency of Transportation–Department of Motor Vehicles http://dmv.vermont.gov/ Virginia Commonwealth of Virginia Department of Motor Vehicles http://www.dmv.state.va.us/ Washington Washington Department of Licensing http://www.dol.wa.gov/ West Virginia West Virginia Department of Transportation–Division of Motor Vehicles http://www.transportation.wv.gov/dmv/Vehicles/Pages/VehicleLicenseInfo.aspx Wisconsin Wisconsin Department of Transportation ‐ Division of Motor Vehicles http://www.dot.wisconsin.gov/drivers/ Wyoming Wyoming Department of Transportation http://www.dot.state.wy.us/wydot/
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Camper Van Insulation - Thinsulate vs. Wool
Odd as it sounds, what to use for insulating your van has become known for being one of the more controversial vanlife topics in the community. Perhaps second only to the great indoor shower (or no shower) debate. Insulation is a hot topic for good reason. It’s important to have good insulation because it helps to prevent heat from rising inside the camper van during hotter months and prevents heat from escaping during cooler months and quiets the ride. Choosing what type of insulation is also one of the first (of hundreds) of decisions to make when planning your van build. There are numerous vanlife insulation options for custom van builds and van conversions, as well as various methods for installing them. When choosing the right type of insulation for your van, it is important to understand the differences and compare van insulation options. The insulation you choose will become the core foundation for the climate and noise control of your van. There are several different types of insulation options to choose from. They range from fiberglass insulation, spray foam, polyiso board, Thinsulate, wool, mineral wool and even recycled denim! In this blog post, we will discuss two of the most popular types of insulation that most vanlifers and professional van builders use in their van builds. Thinsulate insulation is made from a type of insulating synthetic fiber, and it’s a thermal type of insulation. It is manufactured by 3M, a company who has been in business for over 100 years and has an excellent reputation. Thinsulate has undergone rigorous testing, studies and quality control. Thinsulate has an excellent name brand, is often used in thermal clothing and was once marketed as a more cost-effective option to down material. Most of the puffy jackets and sleeping bags that professional mountaineers use are made with Thinsulate or a similar synthetic material. The word Thinsulate describes the type of material, as it is thin and insulate. Thinsulate is considered superior to wool insulation for a few reasons. Thinsulate is hydrophobic which means it doesn’t absorb moisture and it repels it. It’s also non-toxic and easy to install. Most people install Thinsulate with 3M 90 spray adhesive, but, like many things these days it’s in short supply and hard to find (this post was written in mid-2021). We reached out to our 3M rep and asked what alternatives might work. He said that 3M 76, 77, or 78 spray adhesives might work but may be a little slower to dry. Also, double sided tape is often used and in automotive applications, hot melt glue is used. Another suggestion was to source 3M 90 adhesive in cans, buckets or tubs from places like Grainger. This could be easier to find and potentially less expensive as well if you’re insulating your entire van but you would need a sprayer. Then there is wool. Most wool insulation options are known to absorb some moisture, and if (when?) it does it looses some of it’s insulating capacity. Wool is often treated with boric acid, a type of insect repellent. Most manufacturers disclose that wool insulation must be treated with this additive to reduce flammability and repel insects. However, this additive is considered to be poisonous if it is to be ingested and it can also cause irritations to the body, more specifically the nose, throat, eyes and skin. If you decide to install this type of insulation, it is important to wear protective gear and follow recommended procedures from the manufacturer. Also, since wool comes from a sheep…it smells like a barnyard. That smell eventually goes away but not for several months up to a year. I personally can’t stand the smell. Thinsulate is odorless. And for those who are concerned, wool is not a vegan product and is not cruelty free. In some cases, during the production and processes of obtaining wool, sheep are not always treated well. In the wild, sheep know how to take care of their wool, such as growing enough for winter months and shedding unnecessary excess wool during the summer months. However, in captivity, sheep are being bred to constantly produce more and more wool. This is making them much more susceptible to overheating or heatstroke and is the reason why sheep are needing to be sheared more often. Some sheep are being sheared carelessly and this is leading to wounds, pain and avoidable injuries. All sheep are eventually killed when their production decreases or if they become too old or sick. Finally, wool insulation is a little more difficult to install and requires either holding the material up with tape/string or partially installing your walls and stuffing the material inside. Now that you understand what each product is and how it’s manufactured or harvested and installed, let’s discuss the insulative properties of each and the costs associated with both. R-Value Thinsulate SM600L comes in 1.6” thickness and has an R-value of 3.25 per inch. The total R-value of the 1.6” material is 5.2 (3.25 x 1.6”). If you wanted to double up the Thinsulate, you’re R-value would be 10.4, however we feel that one layer of Thinsulate combined with a radiant barrier (Low-E) and air gaps is more than enough insulation Most wool for vans comes in 2” thickness and has an R-value of 3.5 per inch. The major US supplier of Wool insulation sells it in 2” batts and therefore it has an overall R value of 7 (3.5 x 2”). Cost 300 feet of Thinsulate from Vanlife Outfitters is approximately $500 with shipping. 300 feet of wool from the major US wool supplier is approximately $500 with shipping. Final Verdict We recommend Thinsulate over wool for it’s superior moisture management, ease of installation, non-toxic properties and the fact that animals aren’t mistreated in its production.
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Programming a Victron MultiPlus Inverter/Charger With a VE.Bus BMS
UPDATE – in October of 2021, Victron Energy released version 489 (xxxx489) of the firmware for MultiPlus inverter/chargers. According the release notes, if you use this firmware, “there is no need to use the VE.Bus BMS assistant anymore.” Below, in italics, are the notes regarding this, taken from the changelog file from Victron Energy. Using this new firmware results in practically the same behaviour as previously when using the Assistant. As soon as the Multi (or Quattro) sees the VE.Bus BMS, and the (new) checkbox called “Configured for VE.Bus BMS” is not checked yet, it will automatically configure itself. The settings then auto-configured are: The (new) ”Configured for VE.Bus BMS” setting is set, meaning that it will no longer charge in case it doesn’t see the VE.Bus BMS anymore. In more detail: it will go through passthrough when AC is present, and switches off if there is no AC BMS. This is a safety feature. Battery type is set to lithium Absorption voltage is set to 14.2V, Float to 13.5 Maximum absorption time to 60 minutes Charge curve fixed (but reduced float is disabled, the settings “repeated absorption time” and “repeated absorption interval” are changed but ignored) Storage mode is unchecked State of charge when bulk is finished: 95% Charge efficiency: 95% Temperature compensation is disabled. The recommended way to commission such system is to: update the firmware install and connect the VE.Bus BMS unplug the VE.Bus BMS and wait for the Multi to switch to passthrough/switch off. This step ensures that the Multi has properly detected the VE.Bus BMS. Reinsert the VE.Bus BMS. Finished, or optionally connect with VictronConnect and make the rest of the configuration. Related changes: The VE.Bus BMS Assistant, when installed on this new firmware, will issue a warning, that it needs no longer to be installed. (It will be harmless if it is). The ESS Assistant as well as some others, with integrated VE.Bus BMS functionality are updated and will work with both old firmware & new firmware. I recommending using the VictronConnect app to program/configure your Victron MultiPlus inverter/charger. We detail how to do that in this post. So, you can go through that process and then come back here for one additional step required when using a VE.Bus BMS – the addition of an “assistant” for the BMS. This BMS “assistant” is specifically for Victron lithium batteries using the VE.Bus BMS. It allows the BMS to control the MultiPlus inverting and charging. If you have a remote control panel it will work like normal but can be “overridden” by the BMS. Unfortunately, at this time, you cannot add assistants with VictronConnect. Instead you’ll need to use the older, VEConfigure app for Windows. However, just like configuring with VictronConnect, you’ll use the same MK3 to USB interface for connecting your computer to the MultiPlus. This video from Victron is a great overview to using VEConfigure and setting it up with your computer. I recommend checking it out before proceeding. Once you’re connected to your MultiPlus with VEConfigure you’ll want to navigate to the “assistants” tab and then click on the “add assistant” button which will open a menu of available assistants. Choose the “VE.Bus BMS” assistant from the menu. Next, you can press on the “start assistant” button and use the “next arrow” button to proceed through the screens as they are shown below. Once you receive that final confirmation screen you can dismiss it with the “OK” button and you’re done! Note, after you’ve added the BMS “assistant”, the red “low battery” led will flash when the unit is powered on and won’t work until it “sees” the VE.BMS on the VE.Bus. Also, you will not be able to use VictronConnect after you’ve added the “assistant” – instead you’ll have to use VEConfigure. FREE Camper Van Power System Resources & Wiring Diagrams If you’re confused about your DIY camper van electrical or solar system, you’ve come to the right place. We have tons of resources including blog posts, videos and detailed example wiring diagrams (see below),If you’re really stuck, we also offer consulting and design services. Our “choosing a system” page offers some additional advice and includes an example load calculation that you can use. Below are some of our example power systems for camper vans/RVs. The Victron-based systems all have a corresponding blog post, free detailed PDF example wiring diagram, and a corresponding best price product bundle. Ultimately, you’ll probably customize your system to your particular needs and perhaps combine ideas from one or more of the example systems. A baseline camper van electrical system that uses lithium batteries with internal battery management systems (BMS) such as a Victron SuperPack, Battleborn, SOK, etc. This is our most affordable and simple system as well as the most DIY friendly. A more advanced camper van electrical system that uses Victron Smart lithium batteries with an external BMS and a Cerbo GX for monitoring. This system is a bit more complex and more costly, but adds features and allows for more battery storage in the same physical footprint. If you use the Victron Lynx Smart BMS you can upgrade to a dedicated secondary alternator with a Wakespeed regulator in the future. A super powerful (fast-charging) system that uses a dedicated secondary alternator. This system is the most expensive but also the most off-grid capable. We also have a 48-volt version of this system! We also have a power system accessories bundle that has all the circuit protection, shore power, distribution, and wiring you’ll likely need. Please consider purchasing your power system equipment from our store. Our bundles offer great pricing (yeah, better than Amazon), free shipping and you’ll have access to expert support and you’ll be supporting our ability to create more content! Finally, there are a few things that we don’t sell in our store (yet!) that you might need so we keep a list of these products in this Google Sheet of recommended camper van products.
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How To Level Your Camper Van
Let’s Talk Leveling… Some of the most beautiful and rugged wilderness camp sites are the most unlevel and often that driveway you snagged at your friend or family’s house has a pretty significant slope. So, in this short post, I’ll explore a few options for leveling your camper van. It’s worth noting that some people simply don’t care if their van is unlevel. I wish I was like them! But, for me, leveling my rig is important to be able to sleep well. Larger motor homes and trailers typically have some sort of leveling system included with the rig but, camper vans don’t so you have to bring something along. Stuff Laying Around Some folks swear by this method. They simply harvest rocks/etc. from the surrounding area, put them under the tires that need to be leveled and voila! The clear benefit to this approach is that it’s entirely free and you don’t need to carry anything with you so it doesn’t use any space inside your van. The obvious down side is that not every camp site is going to support this approach – particularly in urban areas. It’s also a lot harder than it seems to find just the right size objects for leveling and it can be a real hassle to drive onto some of these odd shaped things. Wood Bits You can cut some wood (such as 2″ x 6″ lumber) into short sections (think tire-length strips) and then lay those onto the ground near the tires you need to level and drive up on them. In my view this is the worst option. First it takes up too much precious space in your tiny van. Then it gets really dicey when you need to stack more than one “layer” of boards to level a really wonky camping spot. However, this approach does work for some people and you may even have the scraps of wood laying around ready to repurpose this way. Leveling Blocks The commonly used plastic leveling blocks are like oversized legos. They are 8.5″ x 8.5″ square and 1″ tall. The idea is that you build a sort of pyramid out of the blocks in front of the wheel(s) you need to level and then you drive onto this pyramid. When you’re done they (theoretically) stack up onto each other to stow away into a bag provided with the blocks. Until I discovered the Flat-Jack (more on that below), this was the actually the best option. They were the devil I knew but definitely a freaking devil. There are several things I hated issues with these things. First, camper vans are heavy and you’re using these on unlevel ground so, when you drive up onto them they twist and crack which means they only stack correctly for the first few uses. That makes them hard to set up because you’re trying to use the least damaged blocks on the bottom in order to build your pyramid of blocks. That initial problem is greatly exacerbated by the fact that it’s nearly impossible to drive onto these pyramids and then stop at the exact right space (remember only 8.5″ wide). You are basically juicing the accelerator to get up on the blocks while simultaneously slamming on your brakes. If you get that right – after ten attempts – there’s a good chance your van rolls slightly off when you put it into park! Each attempt to drive onto the blocks smashes them deeper into the ground which is often muddy or sandy while crushing their shape further. So, after you use these things, even a few times, they are so mangled and dirty, they don’t stack up anymore so they end up taking up way more space than they did when they stowed away fully stacked up. The Flat-Jack Cue the angelic music. After years of disappointing experiences with other leveling systems (see above), I discovered there was a thing called the Flat-Jack widely available in Europe but not available here in the USA. So, long story made short, we got in touch with the Flat-Jack folks and became the exclusive seller of these magic air leveling pillows in the US. So, I’m certainly biased, but I think the Flat-Jack is the way to go for camper van leveling. As the name suggest, they store flat so they take up very little space in your van. I have mine stored in mesh pockets attached to my rear doors but they can be easily stashed away in so many places. When you want to use them, you simply lay them on the ground in front of the tire(s) you want to level and then drive onto them. Because they’re flat, this is super simple – all that frustration trying to get up on sets of blocks (or rocks or wood or whatever) goes way. You just lay them on the ground and drive into place. Then you connect up an air compressor or hand pump and inflate to the desired height – all the way up to 4.75″. As you inflate, you can fine tune the leveling in a way that blocks/wood/rocks cannot begin to match. The only real “con” is that they’re expensive. However, if you take into consideration how valuable space is inside a small van and how much frustration they will eliminate I think the value starts to shine through. And, unlike the leveling blocks that essentially self destruct as you use them, these will last a lifetime if you treat them well (don’t overinflate and protect from sharp objects). We’ve only been selling them for a few months but we’ve already had very positive feedback from other vanlifers an we encourage you to check them out! A Sassy Video Comparing Leveling Blocks To The Flat-Jack
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Configuring a Victron MultiPlus Inverter/Charger
Why Program? In most cases you’ll need (or want) to program/configure your Victron MultiPlus inverter/charger after it’s installed into your van. For instance, since the MultiPlus comes from the factory setup to charge AGM type batteries, if you have lithium batteries, you’ll want to, at least, change the charger functionality to charge your batteries correctly. Note, if you have a system that uses Victron Energy Smart lithium batteries with a Lynx Smart BMS such as our external BMS power system example or our secondary alternator power system example, you do not need to configure your MultiPlus inverter/charger charge profile. In those systems, DVCC will take over and make sure your batteries are charged correctly from the MultiPlus and any other Victron charger that is digitally connected to a Cerbo GX/BMS such as a Smart Solar MPPT charge controller that is connected via VE.Direct. Let’s Start With The Defaults The table below shows how the settings are configured by default when you get the unit. Inverter frequency 60Hz Input frequency range 45-65Hz Input voltage range 94-143VAC Inverter voltage 120VAC Stand-alone/parallel/3-phase stand-alone AES (Automatic Economy Switch) OFF Ground relay ON Charger ON/OFF ON Battery charge curve four-stage adaptive with BatterySafe mode Charging current 75% of the maximum charging current Battery type Gel deep discharge Automatic equalization charging OFF Absorption voltage 14.4V Absorption time up to 8 hours Float voltage 13.8V Storage voltage 13.2V Repeated absorption time 1 hour Absorption repeat interval 7 days Bulk protection ON AC input current limit 50A Dynamic current limiter OFF WeakAC OFF BoostFactor 2 Programmable relay alarm function PowerAssist ON What You’ll Need 1) A Victron MK3-USB interface. This small device allows you to connect to the VE.Bus on the MultiPlus with your computer (or compatible mobile device) using USB. You’ll (of course) need the computer or mobile device. I recommend a computer if you have it. You’ll connect a standard ethernet cable with RJ45 connectors (must be a “straight-through” not “crossover” type cable which most are) from either of the two VE.Bus connections on your MultiPlus to the corresponding connection on the MK3-USB interface and then connect the USB connection on the MK3-USB to your computer/mobile device. One small tip, it’s really difficult to remove the RJ45 connection on the ethernet cable from the VE.Bus connection on the inverter/charger. So, you might consider breaking off the “clip” on that connector so it can pull out without releasing the clip. Chances are you have a broken one laying around anyway! Another thing to know is that you’ll want to be sure that the MK3-USB connected to computer/device you’re using for the configuration is the ONLY device on the VE.Bus. If you have your MultiPlus connected to a remote panel or Cerbo GX you’ll want to disconnect those during the configuration. Windows ships with a compatible driver for both the MK3-USB interface so you typically don’t need to install a driver. In case you do have issues connecting via USB, we recommend manually installing the device with the driver you can download from their software downloads page. 2) The VictronConnect software which you can either download from the Victron website or install from the Play Store for Android or Apple App Store for iOS. Note: Victron also makes a VE.Bus Smart Dongle that basically adds Bluetooth connectivity/control to the MultiPlus interter/chargers. It connects to the same VE.Bus with an ethernet cable. When you connect to the inverter with VictronConnect via Bluetooth using this dongle you can see all of the same reporting information as well as control the state of the inverter (on/off/charger only mode, etc.) but the advanced settings (configuration) is not available unless. Because of this, you need the Mk3-USB interface for the kind of programming this post discusses. However, you might want the Smart Dongle to control and monitor your inverter/charger when you’re using your van on a day-to-day basis. Alternatively, if you have a Cerbo device such as the Cerbo GX that is connected to Victron’s cloud service (VRM) and it’s configured correctly, you can actually use VRM’s remote configure option as shown in this video. (2026) And here's a newer blog post covering how to remotely Configure your Victron system with VRM The following screenshot, from the VictronConnect manual shows the 3x ways to connect to a Victron product (including the MultiPlus) If You’re Configuring an old-version (“compact”) MultiPlus 12/2000/80… There are some “dip switch quirks” when configuring the older-style “compact” MultiPlus 12/2000/80 unit. You must make sure that the #2 dip switch is “on” (switched to the right) and the others are off (switched to the left). The switches are located under the cover toward the top right of the circuit board. They are numbered from the top down. So the #2 dip switch is the second from the top as shown in the photo. You don’t need to bother with this on newer MultiPlus units including the newer version of the 12/2000/80 that begins with part number PMP (the older, “compact” version part number begins with CMP). Using VictronConnect & Updating Settings Now that everything is connected, be sure that your MultiPlus is powered on using it’s 12 volt DC power connection to your battery bank and in “inverting” mode. Next launch the VictronConnect app. It should search the VE.Bus for devices and find your MultiPlus . When it does, you can click on it to open up the reporting. From there you click on the “gear” (settings) icon in the very top right part of the interface. A message will appear telling you that the settings are disabled with what amounts to a warning not to screw things up. It’s good advice… proceed with caution and be sure to reach out to a qualified electrician/engineer or your distributor/dealer with any questions or if you don’t feel confident programming the device. If you’d like to proceed, you can click on the “enable settings” link and enter the password zzz. If you’ve made it this far you’ll see five main “sections” of settings: general, grid, inverter, charger and AC input control. In the video below, we’ll go through some of the settings we normally change/set in our installations. You can refer to the VE.Bus Configuration Guide (PDF) or the built in “help” inside the VictronConnect for details on all the settings and what they do. You may also find this Victron MultiPlus FAQ PDF helpful. Firmware Updates While you’re in these settings, you can click on the “three dots” menu at the very top right and then click on “product info” this will display the unit’s firmware version with a link to “update” if you’re not on the latest version. Lithionics or SOK Batteries The video shows the charging parameters recommended for Victron Energy SuperPack or Smart lithium batteries. Each battery maker has slightly different recommendations for charging their specific batteries. If you’re using Lithionics batteries, they recommend the following settings: Bulk charge voltage: 14.4Absorption charge voltage: 14.4Float charge voltage: 13.4Absorption time: 1 hour If you’re using SOK batteries, they recommend the following settings: Bulk charge voltage: 14.6Absorption charge voltage: 14.5Float charge voltage: 13.5Absorption time: 30 minutes per 100 amp hours of storage Additional Configuration Required When Using Victron Smart Lithium Batteries If you’re using Victron’s Smart batteries that do not have built in BMS, you need to have an external, VE.Bus BMS and, more than likely, some type of Smart BatteryProtect device on your “dumb” loads which are those 12 volt DC loads that don’t have any kind of “data bus” (no VE.Bus) or way to be “triggered” by the BMS to turn on/off discharging/charging. You can check out this blog post that details an example power system that uses the Smart batteries. In addition, you’re MultiPlus needs to be “aware” that it’s in a system that is using a VE.Bus BMS which requires the addition of what Victron calls an “assistant”. At the time I’m writing this post (April 2021), this additional programming/addition of “assistants” cannot be done with VictronConnect. Instead, you need to use the older VEConfigure software with the same MK3-USB interface. You can download VEConfigure as part of the VE Configuration Tools package (Windows only) on this page of Victron Energy’s website. I detail this extra programming for Victron batteries in another post. Using batteries that require an external BMS adds complexity so many DIY van builders prefer so-called “drop in replacement” type lithium batteries such as Victron’s SuperPack batteries or Battleborn, Relion, Renogy, etc. This blog post details an example of a system using batteries with a built-in BMS. There are some pros and cons to the Victron approach vs. the “drop in replacement”/built-in BMS approach that I write about in this post.
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Camper Van Mobile Internet
We get a lot of questions on how to stay connected on the road. Internet connectivity is very important for most people and even more essential for digital nomads like myself. I’ve tried a number of things since I built my first Promaster camper van back in 2016 but haven’t been really thrilled about any of them. I started with a Sprint MIFI that featured unlimited bandwidth but was severely limited by Sprint’s lousy network coverage outside of densely populated areas. Later, in early 2019 I fell for AT&T’s bait and switch routine when I put the Roadlink Togo “bubble” on the roof of my van. It was actually a great system but then they jacked up the data plan prices crazy high in late 2019 like a strange precursor to the nightmare that was 2020. So, now that hardware is worthless roof clutter unless I use its WIFI extending capability which I have never done and probably will never do. The truth is that there are limitations and caveats to any mobile internet setup and the word “unlimited”, when used with mobile providers, is almost always “marketing speak” for “read the fine print to learn about the actual limits”. However, I’m pretty happy with the set of compromises in my current setup and I’m a heavy consumer of data that hasn’t run into any issues with this setup. Knocking on wood! Visible By Verizon My setup centers around Visible service which uses the Verizon network – including their new-ish 5G speeds where available – but offers “unlimited” data plans starting at only $25 per month total – without any taxes, fees or other nonsense. More on pricing below. It’s well known that Verizon has the best coverage in the USA followed by AT&T. The other carriers seem to lag far behind in coverage. So, there’s a real advantage to being on the Verizon network with Visible – particularly when you’re outside of urban areas which is often the case with vanlife. Visible Pricing The base plan with Visible is $40 per month but if you join a “party” of 4 or more people the price drops to $25 per month. There’s an entire sub-Reddit dedicated to finding Visible parties and, importantly, you don’t need to know the people in your “party” since every party member pays their own bill. The primary thing to look for is a party large enough to support some of the members dropping off. One of the great features of Visible is that there are no commitments so a larger party helps ensure that you’ll stay in the preferred pricing bracket with 4 or more members. One example is the Technomadia party that has 60 members as I write this today. Visible also has a referral program. If you use a referral code (like mine which is 3lSHB6) when signing up, you’ll receive $20 off your first month service and I will get a $20 credit for your signup! How It Works When you sign up, Visible will send you a SIM card that must be used in a smartphone that is compatible with their service. You cannot use the Visible SIM in a hotspot – it must be used with a phone. I wanted a dedicated phone for this purpose so the internet connectivity would be constant and I could use my “real” phone as I normally would, so I purchased the ZTE Blade A7 Prime phone for $79 from Visible when I signed up. When the SIM card arrived up I had no trouble inserting it into the phone and activating the service. My Setup I use the WeBoost Drive Sleek signal booster that utilizes a small, magnetic rooftop antenna to pull in and “boost” wireless signals. It has a “cradle” that I’ve mounted just behind the passenger seat. Whatever device you put into this cradle gets the signal boosting. So, this serves not only as a booster but a handy mounting point for the phone I’m using. As I mentioned before, I use a teeny-tiny Mango router that has a USB connection to tether to the phone via USB. This becomes the “single” device that the phone’s hotspot allows and it creates a WIFI network inside the van much like a router at a home or office that I can connect all my devices to (other phones, laptop, security devices, etc.). The entire setup with the phone, router and WeBoost signal booster was right around $300. My Experience I’m writing this post at the end of March 2021 and I’ve been using the Visible system in my van since early February. In that time I’ve traveled from Colorado to Florida and, overall, I’m really impressed with the setup. In my experience the service is truly unlimited. There are no speed limitations when using mobile data on the phone itself but the hotspot functionality (when tethering) constrains the bandwidth to about 5 Mbps (megabits per second). While this sounds crazy slow, I find it adequate for most things including video streaming, Zoom calls and working from the road. According to Zoom, for group calls you need 1 Mbps upstream and .6 Mbps downstream bandwidth for “high quality video”, 2.6 Mbps/1.8 Mbps for 720 HD video and 3.8 Mbps/3.0 Mbps for 1080 HD video. So, the “throttled” 5 Mbps should be good enough for even the highest quality video. For some real world context, I just completed a one-hour Zoom call with two other people from the van where I had “3 bars” of signal in an urban setting. During the call there were two brief periods of time, each about 15 seconds in length, that I saw the dreaded “your internet connection is unstable” message appear. Another limitation is that there can only be one device connected to the phone’s hotspot. However, if you add a router to your setup, as I did, you can get around this limitation since the router is considered the single device but provides a WIFI network that all your devices can connect to. In all cases it appears Visible traffic is a bit slower and has higher latency than plans using Verizon directly and are subject to “network management”. In my first three weeks I used over 44 GB of data! Perhaps even more impressive is that I have had a strong signal literally everywhere I have camped so far. I don’t expect that will always be the case but I’ve covered a lot of ground without any signal issues whatsoever. The Mango router is also impressive and the USB tethering has been super reliable. So far I’ve only had to “reset” it’s USB tether connection twice in many months and thousands of miles across the USA. In other words, the USB tether between the Mango router and the phone was stable for weeks at a time and, if it did stop working, I simply unplugged the USB connection from the phone, reconnected it and then went into the phone’s settings to “turn on” the USB tether again. So, the bottom line is that this is a very affordable and solid solution for people who need regular, reliable data connections in their van and are willing to take the “slow but steady” route where the speeds are capped but the total bandwidth is not. It’s also a good idea to have your personal mobile phone service be with a different provider so that you have that secondary network as a backup that you can use if your primary option (Visible in my case) isn’t working in your location. Eliminate Throttling? In this video created by Jake & Heather, they discuss a way to use Visible from a hotspot by “repairing” the IMEI number on the device which, apparently removes the bandwidth speed throttling on the hotspot, and allows multiple connections like my router that is tethered, because it’s treated as a “phone”. I have not tried this but it just might work! Update – September 2022: some folks on the Promaster Forum report that some changes to the computer you’re tethering or the router that you’re using to tether can be used to work around the bandwidth throttling. If you want to dive deeper into mobile internet, the Mobile Internet Resource Center website is fantastic and their post on Visible is worth a read.
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Webasto Heater Tech Talk Interview Video
Want to spend an hour nerding out about Webasto heaters with a Webasto tech – like the guy who actually trains certified installers and knows these things inside and out? Well, you’re at the right place! We talk maintenance, high altitude adjustments, altitude limits for the Air Top 2000 STC heaters and how it compares to the bigger EVO40, differences between gasoline and diesel version, how to make your heater last for 10,000+ hours instead of only 70 hours and tons more. While you’re here, you might be interested in our Webasto Air Top 2000 installation post or checking out all the Webasto products we sell in our store!
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Installing Lonseal Marine Vinyl Flooring In Camper Van
Adhesive Note This blog post details how to install Lonseal flooring using the company’s recommended 650 epoxy adhesive. That adhesive is the highest performance option but it’s also significantly harder to work with and much easier to screw up largely due to its epoxy nature including the relatively short (30 minute) working/pot time. While we can’t recommend NOT using the officially recommended product, we can warn you that it is not an easy project and any mistakes you make tend to be highly visible. In other words, it is not forgiving. Meanwhile, I’ve been installing Lonseal into my camper vans long before we were started selling the products (going back to 2017). In those vans I used Roberts 2310 vinyl adhesive which is substantially easier to use, can be purchased locally, and is less expensive. My current van (as of May 2022) has held up very well for about three years now in all conditions from extremely hot (120 degrees or more) roasting in the Florida sun to extreme cold (-20 degrees) in Colorado along with the radical swings in humidity between these two very different locales. I’m sure there are some applications where the extra high performance of the epoxy adhesive are needed – perhaps something harsh like the deck of a boat – but, in my camper van, I have not personally seen a need for something more substantial than the standard adhesives. Your mileage may vary! This short blog post is a high-level overview of Lonseal installation. I recommend that you also read through Lonseal’s own documentation including their Interior Flooring Installation Guide and Vehicle Installation Guide. Why Use Lonseal Flooring In Your Camper Van Lonseal is a heavy duty sheet vinyl designed for marine environments. As such, it’s incredibly durable and tough which is perfect for a camper van environment. It comes in a wide variety of patterns/finishes including wood look and “coin” style. One piece of general advice for flooring in your van is to avoid materials that will have cracks or seams which, over time, will trap dirt or allow water/liquids to seep in. These “plank” floors also tend to develop uneven gaps with all the constant movement and expansion/contraction in a van. In addition, vinyl is environmentally friendly. Its primary raw material is obtained from the nearly inexhaustible supply of sodium chloride (salt). Its manufacture has a smaller impact than other plastics, produces virtually no dioxins, and relies on fewer oil by-products than rubber. Vinyl is naturally fire retardant, highly recyclable, and products can be easily manufactured to meet strict indoor air quality (IAQ) requirements. Lonseal Antique & Ivory Wood Look flooring in my Miles Van Camper. Sizing Lonseal is sold in sheets that are six feet wide and you determine the length by specifying how many linear feet you need. In most cases 10-15 feet is plenty for a cargo van. However, some cargo vans (like the Promaster) are slightly wider than six feet. Often there is cabinetry or other “stuff” in the van that covers the subfloor so the fact that the flooring doesn’t quite go “wall to wall” isn’t a problem – you simply put the flooring where it’s seen. If your layout requires you to join two pieces of Lonseal resulting in a “seam”, there are two ways to “weld” the seam together – one uses heat and is considered more difficult and the other is a chemical process. Importantly, Lonsealer is not compatible with Lonseal’s recommended 650 epoxy adhesive because Lonsealer requires seam tape (double face tape) to be used in the seam area to keep adhesive out of the seam. The Lonsealer has a chemical reaction with the adhesive (both the #650 and #813) and requires that the seam be free of adhesive residue. Lonseal recommends using a simple butt seam or heat welding instead. Lonseal makes a product for the chemical sealing. It sells for $38 and one tube should be plenty for a small space. I have never had to do this myself but this (strange but informative) video details how to cut the flooring using an “overlap cut” and use the Lonsealer product. Preparation According to Lonseal, your subfloor must be at least 5/8 in. (15.9 mm) thick. They recommend “exterior grade plywood”. Also, the temperature where you store and install the flooring should be “maintained between 65 – 85 °F (18.3 – 29.4°C) for 48 hours before, during, and 48 hours after installation” and “relative humidity level extremes should also be avoided because of their influence on proper drying and curing of substrate preparation materials and adhesives. General recommended humidity control level is between 35 – 55%.” Finally, the substrate/subfloor should be totally clean and as smooth as possible prior to the flooring installation. Make A Template & Cut To Size I typically make a template using “kraft paper” or the heavier duty Ram Board. Once you’re happy with the shape of your template you can trace that outline onto the flooring with a pencil. Be sure to triple-check your orientation! The Lonseal cuts easily with a razor blade and I find that sharp scissors work best for curves and contours. Lonseal flooring cut to size, ready to install. Choosing Adhesives & Laying The Flooring OK, here comes the tricky part… Lonseal recommends their 650 Epoxy Adhesive for horizontal applications in vehicles (floors) and their 400 Contact Adhesive for vertical surfaces. Many people will use coin flooring on walls/vertical surfaces in places like their “garage” area under a platform bed which is an example of a vertical installation. If you really don’t want to use Lonseal adhesives, they have a list of alternatives (PDF). However, they do caution against using off-the-shelf products such as Roberts 7350 “universal” adhesive because they are typically intended for environments where the temps are between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. During hot weather the temps inside your van can be well above that which could result in slipping or shrinking of the vinyl. Installing With Lonseal 650 Epoxy Adhesive Lonseal’s 650 Epoxy Adhesive is a two-part epoxy and they recommend you mix the entirety of both parts (part A and part B at once in order to ensure the correct proportions. The directions specify that you should use a mechanical mixer at low slow speed (less than 375 RPM) until you achieve a smooth homogeneous mix and to avoid getting any air trapped in the mix which will shorten the working time. That said, I was able to mix it by hand. I highly recommend that you have someone helping you with the installation. Once you start mixing the epoxy, you only have about 30 minutes of time to use the adhesive (the “pot life” at 73°F is approximately 30 minutes) so do not mix more adhesive than can be used in a 30 minute period and be prepared to move fast and have everything ready to go once you start mixing the epoxy. Immediately after the epoxy adhesive is mixed, one person can pour it onto the subfloor and begin troweling with a 1/16″ x 1/32″ x 1/32″ u-notched trowel while the other person manages the flooring which can started rolled up and then placed into the “wet” epoxy. After the flooring is laid, you should use a roller to smooth it out and push it into the adhesive. Lonseal’s installation instructions tell you to use “a minimum 100 pound, three-section roller” which is impractical in a small van. Instead you can use a “three-section laminate roller” making sure you put enough weight behind it to ensure strong, positive contact. After 2-3 hours you should roll the floor again. You can use ethyl alcohol applied to a clean, dry cloth to wipe up any adhesive residue from the surface of the flooring while still wet. Do not apply ethyl alcohol directly to the material. It’s often a good idea to place some heavy objects on the floor during the curing process. They recommend that you avoid any traffic on the floor for 24 hours. The complete cure time is listed as 72 hours. Installing With Lonseal 400 Contact Adhesive If you’re using Lonseal on a vertical surface, they recommend you use their 400 Contact Adhesive. First you should make sure that whatever you’re attaching the flooring to is totally clean and free of oil/dirt/grease/etc. Then uniformly coat both surfaces (flooring and whatever you’re attaching it to) with the adhesive with a paint brush or non-shedding, 3/8 in. nap roller and wait until the adhesive to become “tacky” to the touch and then then attach the flooring to the surface. Importantly, this stuff is SUPER sticky. Once you attach the flooring to the surface you will not be able to adjust it’s position so be very careful when applying to make sure your positioning is accurate. Here’s a great time lapse video of someone installing Lonseal Loncoin flooring for a Sprinter van. They did this with the floor outside the van but the process is the same. They use some kind of tank instead of a roller!
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