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10+ Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Camper Van Builder
Van conversions are not cheap! They take time, money, creativity and a whole lot of work — and in the end, your converted van might become your weekend getaway or your full-time home on the road. That’s why choosing the right camper van conversion company is one of the most important decisions you’ll make. Whether you’re planning quick trips to campgrounds and state parks or selling everything to live the vanlife dream, the builder you hire will shape the comfort, safety, and durability of your custom camper van. Doing your due diligence up front can save you stress (and cash) later. For a broad overview of hiring a camper van conversion company, check out my companion post: “How to Find the Right Camper Van Builder (Without Losing Your Shirt or Your Sanity)”. In addition, if you want to hear about my latest camper van build, check out our podcast on the topic here! Without further ado, here are the essential questions I always recommend asking. Think of this as your checklist for finding a camper van builder you can actually trust. 1. How long have you been doing this? Experience counts. Years in business matter, but so does what they did before camper van conversions — were they carpenters, electricians, or just figuring it out as they went? Ask both. A builder with a trade background and a few years of van-specific work under their belt is usually a safer bet. 2. How many camper vans have you actually converted — and which ones? Sprinters, Transits, and ProMasters all have quirks. The more builds they’ve done, the more lessons they’ve learned. Don’t just ask for the number — ask if they’ve worked on your specific van model. Repetition is what irons out the kinks. 3. Can I talk to a few of your past customers? Don’t proceed without this. Get at least three references and ask real questions: How was the builder’s communication? Did they promptly answer calls and emails? Did they keep you up to date with the build progress? Were you able (invited) to visit the shop to check progress during the build? Did they accommodate any mid build changes? Was the project on time? Did you feel part of the build process? How has the van held up after months (or years) of use? The answers will tell you more than any Instagram photo. 4. How long does a typical build take? Conversions can take 6–12 weeks, sometimes more. Ask about their usual timeline, but also how they handle delays — because every project hits a snag. A good camper van builder is upfront and keeps you in the loop instead of leaving you hanging. And, how do they bring you along for the ride — regular calls? Emails/photos? Can you drop in? Trust me, you are going to want to watch this thing develop! 5. Do you have a certain “style”? Every builder has a look. Some crank out modern, minimalist builds. Others do cozy cabins or high-end luxury. Scroll their portfolio and make sure you actually like what they do — because chances are, that’s what you’ll get. Don’t expect them to reinvent their entire style for you. 6. What materials do you use? Vans shake, rattle, and roll. What works in a stationary house doesn’t always hold up on the road. Ask what materials they use, why they chose them, and whether they’re lightweight and durable enough for life on the move. If they can’t explain their choices, that’s a red flag. 7. Do you build cabinets in-house? Cabinetry can make or break a camper van. Ask if they custom-build or buy prefab. In-house CNC work usually means tighter fit and fewer rattles. Customization also lets you maximize every inch of space — which matters a lot in a van. 8. How do you handle electrical systems? This is the heart of a camper van. Anyone can slap wood on walls, but wiring batteries and solar is another level. Ask what brands they use (Victron, Battle Born, Renogy, etc.), how many systems they’ve installed, and who actually does the wiring. If electrical seems like an afterthought, walk away. 9. What features and options do you offer? Plumbing, showers, toilets, dinettes, work spaces — every lifestyle needs different features. Some builders specialize in full off-grid setups, others keep it simple. Make sure they can deliver the exact options you care about. 10. What’s this really going to cost me? Camper van conversions range from $20,000 for basic setups to over $100,000 for full custom homes (and that’s not including the van). Ask for a detailed, line-item quote. No hidden fees, no vague answers. Also ask about payment schedules and warranty coverage. A good van conversion company is upfront about money from day one. 11. Do you do partial conversions? Not everyone needs a full build. Maybe you just want electrical or insulation done. Ask if they take on partial projects. It can save you money and still give you professional quality where it counts. 12. What’s included in your warranty? A camper van is a big investment. A legit van builder will warranty their work. Ask how long it lasts and what’s covered: cabinetry, electrical, plumbing, labor, or just parts? 13. Will my camper van still be insurable and legal? Insurance companies care about safety standards. If your builder doesn’t follow RVIA or local codes, you might have trouble getting coverage. Ask how they make sure your custom camper van is legal and insurable. 14. What’s the resale value of a converted van? If you might sell someday, ask what features hold value. Clean layouts and quality systems usually pay off better than flashy extras. A good van conversion company will know what buyers look for. 15. Do they offer a pick up orientation? Your dream camper van will certainly have a lot of great features, but will you know where they all are and how to use them? Any decent builder will suggest — better yet, require — that you are available to take a couple of hours at pickup to go through the entire build. Where is my electrical system? How do I turn my system off/on? How do I fill my fresh water tank? How do I dump my grey water? What does this switch do? How does my heater work? Is there a remote for my AC or my Maxx fan? Where’s the toilet? Remember, this is a pretty big deal and once you drive off in your new home on wheels, you’re gonna want to know what’s up when you pull over that first night to camp out. 16. What is their post-build support plan? How will they support you after you drive away in the camper van? Do they offer warranties? Trouble-shooting? Check-ins? Adjustments after an initial shake-down trip? You want to know up front if they are going to leave you high-and-dry after you’ve given the final payment. Final Tip: Don’t Ignore Your Gut If something feels off — it probably is. The best camper van conversion company isn’t just skilled. They’re communicative, trustworthy, and actually care about your project. Use this list as your guide. And if you want the full deep dive on finding the right builder, check out my companion post: “How to Find the Right Camper Van Conversion Company (Without Losing Your Shirt or Your Sanity).”
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Mike's Van Build Podcast: Ep. 5
Framing Vanlife Dreams – Building the Foundation of Mike’s Adventure Rig The prep work is done — now the real transformation begins. In Episode 5 of Mike’s Van Build Podcast, the empty Sprinter shell starts taking shape as Mike and the Site Seven team dive into the framing stage. This is where a camper van conversion turns from bare metal into a structured, livable space — and every cut, measurement, and joint matters. Framing a Sprinter Van BuildFraming may not be glamorous, but it’s the backbone of any van build. Using precision cuts and careful planning, the team lays out the skeleton for walls, cabinets, and storage. This stage ensures every panel, cabinet, and system will fit seamlessly later on. As Mike puts it, “This is where it starts looking like the van I’ve been imagining.” Planning Electrical & Plumbing EarlyThe framing stage isn’t just about structure. It’s also the moment to map out hidden systems — running electrical wiring, planning plumbing lines, and ensuring there’s access for installation and maintenance down the road. By thinking three steps ahead, Site Seven builds durability and functionality into the bones of the van. Why Framing Matters in a Van BuildStrong, well-planned framing is what will make Mike’s Sprinter van conversion feel like home on wheels. It balances durability, usability, and smart space-saving design. It’s also the stage where first-time builders often realize the importance of careful prep and layout — because mistakes here are tough to undo. Next up: walls, wiring, and the first real signs of Mike’s adventure rig coming alive. Products & Features Mentioned in Episode 5 Victron Energy Bundle Secondary Alternator + Wakespeed Regulator Mabru 12,000 BTU Rooftop AC Webasto Heater with Smart Temp Controller 3.0 Isotherm Slim 70 Fridge Thinsulate Van Insulation Tec VanLife Sink Lonseal Flooring Ready to ride along?Check back weekly for new episodes and subscribe on YouTube or your favorite podcast app so you don’t miss what’s next. This van build — and this podcast — is just getting started. Share with a van-curious friend. And if you’ve got questions about your own build, reach out. We’re always happy to help. Want to explore more? Visit the Vanlife Outfitters Store to browse gear, learn from real-world builds, and get help choosing the right setup for your own vanlife adventure.
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Mike's Van Build Podcast: Ep. 4
Episode 4: Designing Vanlife Comfort – How Mike Planned His Dream Van Layout The build is officially underway — but before Mike’s new Sprinter gets its full Site Seven makeover, there’s a lot of behind-the-scenes work to tackle. In Episode 4 of Mike’s Van Build, Mike and the Site Seven team dig into the prep phase that sets the stage for a smooth, efficient build. From organizing the massive haul of parts to finalizing design details, it’s all about making sure nothing slows them down once the real work begins. Sorting, Staging, and Strategizing The first step? Inventory. With everything from flooring to electrical gear arriving from Mike’s Episode 2 shopping spree, the Site Seven shop is buzzing as they check in products, confirm specs, and stage components in the right work areas. This phase isn’t just about keeping things tidy — it’s about preventing delays. When every bolt, panel, and wire is exactly where it needs to be, the build flows faster and with fewer surprises. Fine-Tuning the Plan Mike, Justin, Hunter, and Jammer revisit the layout and systems to make sure every detail works in harmony. They tweak placements for storage, adjust wiring runs for efficiency, and confirm that the gear will deliver the performance Mike’s aiming for. A few big decisions get locked in here, including final flooring choice, insulation details, and how to maximize space without sacrificing comfort. Why Prep Matters It’s easy to think the magic happens once tools hit the van — but in reality, prep is where great builds are made. The organization, planning, and coordination happening now will pay off in speed, quality, and reliability down the road. Key Products Mentioned in Episode 4 Victron Energy Electrical Components Secondary Alternator + Wakespeed Regulator Mabru 12,000 BTU Air Conditioner Webasto Heater with Smart Temp Controller 3.0 Isotherm Slim 70 Fridge Thinsulate Van Insulation Tec Vanlife Sink Lonseal Flooring Ready to ride along?Check back weekly for new episodes and subscribe on YouTube or your favorite podcast app so you don’t miss what’s next. This van build — and this podcast — is just getting started. Share with a van-curious friend. And if you’ve got questions about your own build, reach out. We’re always happy to help. Want to explore more? Visit the Vanlife Outfitters Store to browse gear, learn from real-world builds, and get help choosing the right setup for your own vanlife adventure.
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Mike's Van Build Podcast: Ep. 3
Episode 3: Meeting the Dream Team at Site Seven After a forklift-fueled shopping spree in Episode 2, it’s time to hand over the goods — and the van — to the people who will bring Mike’s dream rig to life. In Episode 3 of Mike’s Van Build, Mike heads to Site Seven Campers in New Hampshire to meet founders Justin, Hunter, and Jammer, see the shop in action, and hand over his brand-new Sprinter for its full custom conversion. First Impressions of Site Seven From the moment Mike walks in, it’s clear this isn’t your average van conversion shop. The Site Seven team runs a clean, organized, and detail-focused operation — complete with dedicated stations for every stage of the build. Mike gets a firsthand look at their cabinetry craftsmanship, electrical setups, and how they manage complex projects without cutting corners. Justin, Hunter, and Jammer share their philosophy on van building: Function comes first — every design decision starts with how the van will be used. Quality over speed — they’d rather get it right than get it done fast. Collaboration is key — they involve clients throughout the process to avoid surprises. Mike’s Build Goals with Site Seven Mike lays out his vision: A rugged, four-season van ready for skiing, biking, and extended off-grid travel. Simplified systems that are easy to operate and maintain. Premium finishes that can handle real-world use without looking worn in a year. Justin, Hunter, and Jammer are all in — mapping out the build timeline, coordinating on the gear Mike’s already picked, and making small tweaks for efficiency and performance. Why This Episode Matters Whether you’re building with a pro shop or going the DIY route, Episode 3 is a goldmine for understanding what makes a great builder–client relationship. You’ll see why Mike trusts Site Seven with his van and what questions you should ask when choosing a builder yourself. Looking to hire a van conversion company for your own camper build? Check out our blog posts covering this topic: How to Find the Right Camper Van Builder (Without Losing Your Shirt or Your Sanity) 10+ Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Camper Van Builder Key Products Mentioned in Episode 3 Victron Energy Electrical Components Secondary Alternator + Wakespeed Regulator Mabru 12,000 BTU Air Conditioner Webasto Heater with Smart Temp Controller 3.0 Isotherm Slim 70 Fridge Thinsulate Van Insulation Tec Vanlife Sink Lonseal Flooring Ready to ride along?Check back weekly for new episodes and subscribe on YouTube or your favorite podcast app so you don’t miss what’s next. This van build — and this podcast — is just getting started. Share with a van-curious friend. And if you’ve got questions about your own build, reach out. We’re always happy to help. Want to explore more? Visit the Vanlife Outfitters Store to browse gear, learn from real-world builds, and get help choosing the right setup for your own vanlife adventure.
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How To Choose Solar Panels For Your Camper Van
This blog details the steps we suggest to pick solar panels for your rig. First step, play Tetris! How much space do you have available for solar panels on your roof? Start by determining if you will be mounting your solar panels to a roof rack, OEM roof rails with crossbars, or some other method. Mounting solar panels using Z brackets to crossbars is our go-to approach. Take away space for your vent fan(s), rooftop air conditioner, Starlink mount, recovery boards, rooftop deck, or other rooftop accessories. That remaining space (hopefully there is some left over!) can get filled with solar panels. Just like all of the tradeoffs inside your rig, you have to make tough decisions on what can fit on top too. Here’s the part that’s not as much fun as it sounds: play panel Tetris, looking at the dimensions of the solar panels while trying to maximize the usable space. Different vendors may have different dimensions for the same panel wattage. Roughly speaking, you will find that panels with lower wattage ratings are correspondingly smaller. Remember that you’re trying to maximize the rooftop area covered with panels, so selecting a smaller panel may allow you to fit more total wattage on your roof. Also keep in mind that mixing different panel sizes is not recommended, so you’re trying to maximize the number of identical panels to fill up your rooftop space. We find that solar arrays like this Newpowa 220 Watt panel with the long side dimensions of <57″ fit well to maximize the horizontal rooftop space on a van. Because of all those other must-have items, many customers may settle for a 400ish Watt array using two panels mounted horizontally. The good news is that the above steps are where all the tough decisions have to happen. The rest is “easy”. Tetris cheat sheet: get out your graph paper, sketch your roof, and see what fits. 42.3" x 21.3" 100 watt Newpowa 12v Black 45.5" x 30.1" 180 watt Newpowa 12v 52.4" x 30.1" 200 watt Newpowa 12v 61.7" x 28.0" 200 watt Newpowa Pro 12v Black 52.8" x 30.1" 200 watt Newpowa 24v 56.7" x 30.1" 220 watt Newpowa 12v Let’s talk about panel voltage Solar panels are marketed in 12 V and 24 V options. One manufacturer’s 12 V nameplate does not mean that another manufacturer’s 12 V specifications are identical, and in fact those specs can vary greatly. 48 V options in solar panel sizes fitting vehicles are not readily available at this time. You picked a 12 V battery bank, you picked a 12 V inverter/charger, so naturally you pick a…well sorry to confuse you, but with solar panels the nameplate voltage doesn’t really matter. What does matter are a few details: The specifications of the solar panel, particularly the Voc, or the open-circuit voltage which is the maximum voltage that the panel will produce How the panel(s) are wired, in series or parallel. Wiring panels in series increases voltage, and wiring panels in parallel increases current. Hopefully a quick set of examples will clarify this confusion. Take a look at the Newpowa 200 Watt 12 V panel specs, and compare those specs to the Newpowa 200W 24 V panel. The 12 V panel has a Voc rating of 24.34 Volts, while the 24 V panel has a Voc rating of 48.68 Volts. You may be thinking those voltages are so high, how can either of these panels work with my 12 Volt electrical system!? The key is that the MPPT charge controller converts the PV (photovoltaic, i.e. solar) side voltage to your BATT (battery) side voltage. In fact, you want the PV side to be a high voltage to allow smaller cables, minimize voltage drop, and minimize losses. Can I use 24 V solar panels in a 12 V system? Yes. Using a 24 V panel like the Newpowa 200 W 24 V panel in a 12 V system allows you to either use panels in series for more efficiency or use panels in parallel for better partial shading performance (or both! two series panels with two more series panels in parallel). In a small solar array, even using only one 24 Volt panel can still work well for a 12 V system. Can I use 12 V solar panels in a 24 V system? Yes, with a caveat or two. In order for the MPPT charge controller to start a charging cycle (in other words, for the MPPT to become a useful device by turning on and supplying power to charge your batteries) the PV voltage must be higher than the BATT voltage. In Victron MPPT charge controllers, this voltage difference must be more than 5 Volts. Using two or more Newpowa 200 W 12 V panels in series meets that requirement in a 24 Volt system, as the PV voltage becomes much higher than the nominal battery voltage. Can I use 12 V or 24 V solar panels in a 48 V system? Yes, with the same caveats as above. Especially with 48 V systems that are typically paired with a secondary alternator kit to rapidly recharge while using a rooftop air conditioner, there may not be tons of space on the roof for solar. That’s just one of the tradeoffs when selecting a 48 V system. Solar arrays with three or more 12 V panels in series or two or more 24 V panels in series are typically required in 48 V systems. Picking a MPPT charge controller Victron MPPT charge controllers have two numbers on each device (for example, 100/50), and here’s the breakdown on those numbers: The first number is the maximum voltage that the controller can tolerate. Do not exceed the nameplate voltage rating or device damage may occur. Also note that the Voc rating discussed above is a nominal value, and the actual maximum voltage varies with temperature. Each solar panel manufacturer provides an additional rating for temperature coefficient for Voc (or another similar name & specification). The second number is the maximum current that the controller can source to your batteries. If you have more solar power available than the maximum current rating, no damage occurs but you don’t get to use all of the available power. Because our solar panels are seldom oriented perfectly at the sun, and you only get so many days of ideal solar panel per year, a slightly undersized MPPT charge controller may not be noticeable to your charging performance. These two MPPT numbers sound a little complicated, so use a cheat sheet. And by cheat sheet, we mean this great MPPT calculator from Victron. Here’s the best way to use the MPPT calculator: 1) Start typing your solar panel vendor and SKU in the Solar Panel field. If you’re in luck, your solar panel model is already in the list. If not, try 1a. 1a) Okay, your model didn’t show up. No problem! Find the Advanced Panel Settings slider and enable advanced mode. 1b) Act advanced. Seven panel specifications become available for editing, and for most manufacturers you need to copy & paste those seven specifications from their panel datasheet to the calculator. Pretty advanced, huh!? 2) Set your system Voltage to 12/24/48. This setting is your battery voltage, because we already told you panel voltage is pretty meh 3) Adjust the Series and Strings parameters to yield the number of panels you can fit. Series is obvious, increase this number if you need/want panels in series. Strings means parallel, increase this number for more Y-branch connectors and panels in parallel. It’s okay to play around with these settings too, adjust series or parallel values and see what the calculator tells you. Some panel configurations offer you a tradeoff, while others just require you to wire your solar array a specific way to make it work. 4) Bonus choice: set your location to see an estimate of how much daily yield your solar panel may provide. But you’re in a van and traveling the world, so maybe you care more if it’s going to rain tomorrow than what your yield would be if you parked in Albuquerque for a month? Now look on the right side of the calculator for the Result. Victron tells you the best MPPT charge controller for your array, and they show you lots of fun details why it’s the best controller too. Yay! For some customers, especially those on larger rigs like trailers, going with two MPPT charge controllers with two types of panels may be a useful choice to maximize area. Using two MPPT charge controllers is also a good choice for “ground deployed” solar panels that get temporarily set up in conjunction with fixed rooftop panels. And, you get to play Tetris and use the calculator twice. Fun times. Wrap up Maybe you’re the TL;DR type, but we hope you read through the details above. To wrap it up, we suggest the following steps to pick your solar panels: 1) Play Tetris with your panels to fit as many identical panels as possible on your roof 2) Use the MPPT calculator to select your charge controller That’s not hard! But if you run into any snags, our tech support team is always ready to help you understand more about our solar products and blogs. Contact us!
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Mike's Van Build Podcast: Ep. 2
Episode 2: Van Build Shopping Spree — Choosing Gear for the Sprinter Dream Rig What happens when you hand Mike Lyons the keys to the Vanlife Outfitters warehouse and tell him to pick whatever he wants for his new custom van? You get Episode 2 of Mike’s Van Build — a gear-lover’s dream tour through the must-have products going into Mike’s next rig. In this episode, Mike shares his top picks for creating a more rugged, off-grid-ready van than his last build, Willow. He’s learned a lot since then — especially about electrical systems — and it shows in his choices. Mike’s Wishlist: Key Upgrades More Durable Flooring – Industrial-grade vinyl that can take the abuse of skis, bikes, and gear without scratching like his old flooring. Powerful Electrical System – A massive power upgrade for running rooftop AC, refrigeration, lights, and more — for days off-grid. An Actual Air Conditioner – Roof unit for quiet, efficient cooling. Powerful Heater – Altitude-capable heating for mountain adventures. Bigger Fridge – Huge capacity with a slim profile to fit the new layout. Better Sink – A space-saving sink with a hidden faucet and butcher block cover. Mike also made some bold omissions: no built-in toilet this time, and no indoor shower — opting instead for more storage, an outdoor shower option, and camp facilities when needed. Lessons for Your Own Build Mike’s top advice? Know how you want to use your van before you shop. Weekend warrior or long-term off-grid? It changes everything. Do an energy audit to size your battery bank and charging systems for your needs. Don’t overlook finishes — the right flooring and cabinetry can handle real-world wear without constant repairs. Consider space trade-offs — every feature you add takes room from something else. Whether you’re deep in your van conversion or just daydreaming, this episode is packed with practical tips, product insights, and plenty of laughs from the forklift-friendly shopping spree. Key Products Mentioned in Episode 2 Lonseal “Loncoin” Flooring Victron Electrical Components Secondary Alternator + Wakespeed Regulator Mabru 12,000 12V Rooftop AC MaxxAir Fan Webasto Heater with Smart Temp Controller 3.0 Isotherm Slim 70 Fridge Thinsulate Van Insulation Tec Vanlife Sink Isotemp 15L Water Heater VanEssential Window Covers Starlink Roof Mount Ready to ride along?Check back weekly for new episodes and subscribe on YouTube or your favorite podcast app so you don’t miss what’s next. This van build — and this podcast — is just getting started. Share with a van-curious friend. And if you’ve got questions about your own build, reach out. We’re always happy to help. Want to explore more? Visit the Vanlife Outfitters Store to browse gear, learn from real-world builds, and get help choosing the right setup for your own vanlife adventure.
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Mike's Van Build Podcast: Ep. 1
Episode 1: From Eurovan to Dream Sprinter Rig What happens when you skip the research, buy a van on instinct, and hand it off to pros without asking for a single update? You get Mike Lyons — VLO’s own customer experience legend — kicking off our new Van Build Podcast with a story that’s equal parts wild, heartfelt, and deeply relatable for anyone eyeing the vanlife dream. In Episode 1, Mike walks us through his evolution from childhood VW camper trips to life in a Eurovan named Althea, to handing over the keys of a brand-new Sprinter (twice!) to professional builders. Along the way, he shares: Why his first custom van was “too nice” — and what he’s doing differently this time How becoming a VLO team member turned him into a true van gear nerd What he wishes he’d known before build #1 (hint: electrical systems matter!) Why how you’ll use your van should drive every decision The moment he stepped into a Site Seven build and said, “This is it.” Whether you’re a DIYer planning your own camper van conversion or dreaming about having a rig built for you, Mike’s story is packed with insight — and plenty of laughs. Why tune in? Because Mike doesn’t hold back. He shares the good, the bad, and the surprisingly funny moments that come with committing to the vanlife lifestyle — like realizing within 10 miles of pickup that his “dream” van might need changes. Or deciding not to build it himself, even as a carpenter, because skiing > sanding. Listen in if you’re wondering: Should I get a Sprinter, Transit, or ProMaster? What mistakes do first-time van buyers make? How do I choose a van builder I can actually trust? What’s it really like to live in a van full-time? Key Products Mentioned in Episode 1 Curious about the gear Mike talks about in the episode? Here are some of the standout items and categories that shaped his journey — from DIY beginnings to high-end custom builds. 12V Refrigerator – Essential for vanlife. Mike went from a cooler to something smarter. Electrical System Components – Batteries, solar, inverters, and more. Mike learned the hard way why this stuff matters. Air Conditioner – He didn’t have one in Willow — but it’s a must-have in his new van. Swivel Seats – A small feature that makes a big difference in usability and comfort. Water Tank System – Your water needs shape your build. Mike learned this as he leveled up. Ready to ride along?Check back weekly for new episodes and subscribe on YouTube or your favorite podcast app so you don’t miss what’s next. This van build — and this podcast — is just getting started. Share with a van-curious friend. And if you’ve got questions about your own build, reach out. We’re always happy to help. Want to explore more? Visit the Vanlife Outfitters Store to browse gear, learn from real-world builds, and get help choosing the right setup for your own vanlife adventure.
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Watt Hours Vs Amp Hours
Watt-Hours vs. Amp-Hours: What Every Van Builder Needs to Know If you’re building your own van’s electrical system, you’ve probably seen batteries advertised in amp-hours (Ah), while solar panels and appliances often list power in watts or watt-hours (Wh). Here’s the problem: mixing these up can lead to a seriously undersized system — and that’s how you end up with a dead fridge, no lights, and warm beer halfway through your road trip. By the end of this post, you’ll know exactly what these terms mean, how they’re connected, and how to use them to plan your off-grid electrical setup with confidence. Amp-Hours: The Current Over Time An amp-hour (Ah) is a measure of how much current a battery can deliver over time. Think of amps like the width of a water hose — the bigger the hose, the more water (current) can flow. Amp-hours tell you how much total flow you get over a certain period. Example: A 100Ah battery could, in theory, supply: 1 amp for 100 hours 5 amps for 20 hours 10 amps for 10 hours Key point: Amp-hours alone don’t tell the full story — you also need the voltage. Watt-Hours: The Real Energy Number A watt-hour (Wh) measures total energy — this is the true “fuel tank size” for your battery. Here’s the connection: Watts = Volts × AmpsWatt-hours = Volts × Amp-hours So if you know a battery’s amp-hours and voltage, you can find watt-hours. Example: 100Ah at 12 volts = 1,200Wh 100Ah at 24 volts = 2,400Wh Why it matters:Two batteries can have the same amp-hour rating but store very different amounts of energy if their voltages are different. That’s why watt-hours are better for comparing systems. Example of our Victron LFP-12.8/300 packs nominal energy at 3840Wh Our selection of Lithium Batteries can be found here. The industry is headed towards rating battery power by the nominal energy voltages. Instead of seeing 12, 24 or 48 volts the industry uses 12.8, 25.6 and 51.2 volts as the nominal values for watt hour calculations. Why Watt-Hours Matter More for Off-Grid Systems Amp-hours are useful when you’re staying in one voltage (most van systems are 12V), but watt-hours let you: Compare batteries of different voltages (12V, 24V, 48V). Calculate your daily power needs accurately. Match your battery capacity to your solar panel output and appliance usage. If you only look at amp-hours, you might undersize your system and run out of battery faster than you expect. How to Calculate Your Daily Power Needs Before buying batteries, figure out how much energy you use in a typical day.Here’s how: Step 1: List your appliances.Write down every device you’ll use: fridge, lights, fan, water pump, laptop, etc. Step 2: Find the wattage.Look for a sticker on the device, the manual, or search online. If it only lists amps, use: Watts = Volts × Amps Step 3: Multiply by hours used per day.This gives you watt-hours for that device. Step 4: Add everything up.That’s your daily total watt-hours. Example Daily Usage Table: Appliance Watts Hours/Day Daily Wh 12V fridge 50 8 400 LED lights 20 4 80 Vent fan 30 5 150 Air Conditioner 600 5 3000 Phone charging 10 2 20 Total — — 3650Wh Step 5: Add a safety margin.Cloudy days, inverter inefficiencies, and battery aging happen. Add 20–30% to be safe: 3650Wh × 1.25 ≈ 4,562.5 Wh/day needed. Converting Between Ah and Wh If you already know one measurement, here’s the cheat sheet: Ah = Wh ÷ Volts Wh = Ah × Volts Example: You need 4,562.5Wh per day. With a 12V system: Ah = 4,562.5 ÷ 12 ≈ 381Ah So you’d want at least a 460Ah lithium battery bank (lithium batteries can use most of their capacity, however manufactures only recommend 80% depth of discharge or less; lead-acid can only use about 50%). With your daily Wh usage calculated, remember you must have a charging source that is capable of replenishing the used energy each day too. This can be from solar, dcdc chargers, 2nd alternator, shore power or generator. Common Mistakes to Avoid Comparing Ah without checking voltage.A 100Ah 12V battery is not the same as a 100Ah 24V battery. Forgetting inverter losses.Converting 12V DC to 120V AC loses ~10–15% of energy. Only planning for sunny days.Always size for your worst-case scenario. Not tracking usage.A battery monitor like a Victron SmartShunt helps you see real-world consumption. Final Tips for DIY Van Builders Always start with watt-hours when planning your system. Use efficient appliances — LED lights, efficient DC fridges, and laptops instead of power-hungry desktops. If you can, test your system before hitting the road. Remember: you can always add more solar panels later, but battery capacity is harder to upgrade in a cramped van. Conclusion:Understanding watt-hours vs. amp-hours is one of the most important steps in building a reliable off-grid van electrical system. Once you get the hang of converting between them, you can size your battery bank, solar array, and charging system with confidence — and keep your lights on and fridge cold, no matter where the road takes you. If you need assistance putting together your electrical system, please call 754-444-8704 an agent at Vanlife Outfitters will provide their expertise in the perfect electrical system for your application.
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24V Camper Van Secondary Alternator Electrical System - More Options at 24 Volts!
Example 24V Camper Van Electrical System with Victron NG Batteries and Secondary Alternator Jump To Example Wiring Diagram Options. Voltage. Capacity. Charging methods. Brand. Topology. Are there too many options for your camper van electrical system? If your answer is Yes, then we’re here and happy to help. Reach out to us, and our goal is to help you understand more about our camper van electrical system bundles (or any product in our store!). We pride ourselves on actually responding to your emails or picking up your phone call. We may even be working from our vans while we’re doing it! Whether your answer above was Yes or No, this blog post is a reminder that you do have options. In particular, we’ve added to our suite of free example wiring diagrams to include a complete 24 Volt electrical system based on Victron NG batteries that can be paired with a high-power secondary alternator for charging. 12 Volt, 24 Volt, or 48 Volt? Shore power, DC-DC (primary alternator), secondary alternator, and/or solar charging? Yep, you can do that. Let’s talk about this 24 Volt Victron NG-based electrical system Options does not have to mean Complication. In fact, this 24 Volt NG electrical system for your camper van has CAN ( “controller area network“) communication so that you don’t need to fiddle with every device configuration to get the system working well – all of the major system components “talk” to each other and communicate with the batteries for safe, reliable and fast charging or discharging. In Victron-speak, these devices are Smart. This bundle can include a ~3,600 Watt (150 Amp) Nations secondary alternator plus an additional 700 W (or more) of DC-DC charging from the primary alternator. That’s a lot of charging power while driving. Sure, adding a little bit of solar charging can help keep up with those house loads too. As far as discharging, a Multiplus “3000” is still probably in the sweet spot, capable of surging up to 5500 Watts of AC load. What’s different with this system? Not a lot really. In the example wiring diagram, you’ll see many similarities to our 12 Volt and 48 Volt secondary alternator system bundles. Of course we’ve carefully selected 24 Volt equipment in this case. And there’s still some 12 Volts running around as discussed in this blog. If you’re considering a 24 Volt system, we expect that you’re selecting as many 24 Volt appliances as possible, but it’s hard to completely remove 12 Volts. Air conditioner, refrigerator, air heater, lighting, pumps,… the list goes on, and yep, you can do that at 24 Volts. The number of 24 Volt loads may turn out to be one of the more annoying issues to handle in this system. And it’s not that bad. You can easily expand the 24 Volt distribution with a second Lynx Distributor, but the distributor uses MEGA fuses that only go down to 40 Amps. The example wiring diagram shows a Littelfuse MIDI Fuse Holder that can provide an extra 2 or 3 loads with MIDI fuses that go down to 30 Amps. Rather than inline fuses for the multitude of smaller load branches at 24 Volts, it may make sense to use a DC fuse block wired from the Lynx Distributor. Many sizes of DC fuse blocks are offered by Blue Sea, including this one with six circuits. The primary non-Smart device shown in this system is the venerable Orion 24/12-70 DC-DC converter to supply that aforementioned 12 Volts. It’s possible to use the newer Smart Orion XS 1400 as the 24/12 converter instead. Using the XS 1400 gives you more visibility into your 12 V load consumption, and it provides the voltage conversion at a higher efficiency (maximum of 98.5% efficient versus 92%). Efficiency is the name of the game for a 24 Volt system, so for some customers the XS 1400 as the 24/12 converter can make sense. In the example wiring diagram, you’ll also find a small reminder that the Lynx Smart BMS NG provides an Allow To Discharge (ATD) signal. ATD can be used to stop devices from discharging the batteries, extending the “smart” operation of your system and protecting your batteries. We show a simple wiring example where the Orion 24/12-70 DC-DC converter is enabled/disabled by ATD, and that technique can be expanded using a Smart BatteryProtect. Here’s a hypothetical use for a Smart BatteryProtect: maybe you don’t want your high-power 24 Volt air conditioner to run your batteries flat overnight while you’re boondocking. Waking up with no power available is so much fun! How many times have I said System in this blog? Not enough, apparently. The key part of safe, reliable and fast charging is that your electrical components have been carefully selected and proven to be interoperable. Particularly in the case of the Nations secondary alternator with Wakespeed WS500 Pro regulator as a charging option, your electrical system should include batteries officially supported by Wakespeed to work correctly and safely. The Victron NG BMS & batteries, Wakespeed regulator, and Cerbo running DVCC (along with all those other Smart devices) perform as a system that has been tested, can be supported, and is proven to operate to meet your camper van’s demands. Wiring diagram and bundle Click below for the 24 Volt electrical system with secondary alternator kit free example wiring diagram. This system can be purchased through our build your own bundle page. You’ll get our best bundle pricing and fast & free shipping, and of course you’ll get the electrical system best tailored to the needs of your van. If you have questions about this 24 Volt camper van electrical system, reach out to us and someone from our tech support team will be happy to assist you. Follow this link to gain access to our library of FREE Camper Van Electrical System Wiring Diagrams. Use the PDF files to print/zoom in. After following the link, open the Vanlife Outfitters 24V Secondary Alternator Wiring Diagram for our example wiring corresponding with this blog post. Summary: 24V Camper Van Electrical System with Secondary Alternator Kit at a Glance A 24 Volt camper van electrical system with a secondary alternator is one of the most reliable ways to power high-demand, off-grid living. By reducing current and wire size, 24 Volt systems improve efficiency and make it easier to run heavy loads like air conditioning and refrigerators. Many DIY camper van builders still rely on 12 Volts for lights, fans, and pumps, but adding a 24 Volt alternator setup gives you faster charging and greater flexibility. If you’re planning a complete camper van electrical system, consider whether 24 Volt is the right balance of simplicity, performance, and long-term reliability. FAQ: 24V Camper Van Electrical Systems Is 24V better than 12V for a camper van electrical system? A 24 Volt camper van electrical system is more efficient for high-power setups. Because the voltage is higher, the current is lower — which means smaller wires, less energy loss, and better efficiency. A 12 Volt system is often enough for simple camper van electrical systems, but if you want to run appliances like air conditioning or refrigerators off-grid, 24 Volts is usually the smarter choice. Do I need a secondary alternator for my camper van electrical system? Not every van needs one. A secondary alternator kit is ideal if you drive or idle often and want reliable, high-output charging for a large battery bank. For smaller or simpler camper van electrical systems, a DC-DC charger connected to your stock alternator may be enough. In fact, both a secondary alternator and a DC-DC charger can be combined for massive charging power! Can I mix 12V and 24V in the same camper van electrical system? Yes — many builders do. A common setup is to use 24 Volts for high-draw loads (like heavy appliances such as air conditioners and refrigerators) and keep a small 12 Volt distribution panel for lights, fans, and pumps. This adds a little bit of complexity, but it’s a practical solution when you want the efficiency of 24 Volt and the necessity of 12 Volts. How much does a complete camper van electrical system cost? Costs vary depending on power needs. A simple setup might run $1,500–$3,000. A complete camper van electrical system with a large lithium battery bank, secondary alternator kit, and a 3,000W inverter/charger can cost $10k+.
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