Blog
Why I Picked a Ford Transit for My Camper Van Conversion
We’re a vanlife company that enjoys and uses our camper vans. We do more than just sell products in our store. Our team has experience building and traveling in the big three camper van chassis – RAM ProMaster, Mercedes Sprinter, and Ford Transit – as well as Volkswagons, box trucks, and more. Zach wrote all about his preference for ProMaster. Mike talked about how he fell for “the look” of a “big…tough” Sprinter. This blog covers why I picked a Ford Transit for my DIY camper van conversion. This post is not a sales pitch for the Ford Transit. If you’re trying to decide between a ProMaster, Sprinter or Transit, my short answer is that the Transit gave me the best mix of AWD availability, useful factory options, lower expected cost of ownership, and easy service access across North America. That combination made it the best van for my camper conversion. Since you’re reading this blog, you’ve probably already read this suggestion in posts from Clayton or Mike or everyone else at Vanlife Outfitters – we strongly recommend renting or borrowing a camper van to try before you buy. I followed our own advice and rented a Hymer Sunlight and a Winnebago Revel well before I settled on a floorplan or specific equipment. The Sunlight was based on the Ram ProMaster chassis, and the Revel is built from a Sprinter chassis. Renting these vans provided tons of experience to base my own design decisions: van driving comfort, features/options, floorplan tradeoffs, installed devices, and more. So I rented a ProMaster and Sprinter, then I picked a Transit. Pray tell! The interwebs are full of opinions (and maybe a few facts too) comparing ProMasters, Sprinters, and Transits as a base for DIY camper van conversions. Each of the big three chassis offers tall and long models to support a glamping rig or smaller models to suit your needs. The vanlife industry has come a long way in a few years, so now all of the major models have customized options from roof racks to interior trim kits to water tanks and more. There are a few reasons why I chose a Transit. Why I Chose a Ford Transit Over a Sprinter or ProMaster AWD I wanted four or all wheel drive for peace of mind in snowy conditions and forest roads with variable conditions. Ford offers an AWD option in the Transit, but 4X4 is a (fairly expensive) aftermarket conversion. AWD eliminated the ProMaster from my list since it’s only front wheel drive. That alone did not make the decision for me, but it was a big factor. OEM Options All of the manufacturers offer numerous build options that help jumpstart the conversion from empty van to camper van. I found that many Ford dealerships had conversion-ready vans on their lots with options like swivel seats, extended gas tank, and even the hotly debated dual alternator package. You can always special order your van to tick every option box on your list. I tried, twice!, and never took delivery, but that’s a story for a different post. Cost and Service Having owned and maintained a European import car, I decided that the higher entry cost plus maintenance costs of a Mercedes was not for me. Since I’ve put hundreds of thousands of miles on my past travel vehicles, knowing that nearby service centers can fix Ford vehicles almost anywhere in North America was a factor for me. A desire for lower cost of ownership and ease of service pushed Mercedes down on my list. A Transit was an easy choice, and I certainly have no regrets. Ford Transit 101 for Camper Van Conversions Transit models and options vary by year, so this post won’t try and duplicate Ford’s website. Just know that we’re talking about the commercial Ford Transit van and not the Transit Connect, which is smaller. A majority of camper vans start with a Cargo Van model, although some customers needing more than two seats may opt with a Crew Van or Passenger Van model. Transit vans are available in many sizes including 130” and 148” wheelbases, three body heights from low to high, three body lengths from regular to extended, and four vehicle weight ratings. The largest Transit is a high roof, extended length van. Lower roof heights or shorter bodies trade off interior space for other benefits such as fitting in garages, easier parking and maneuvering, better fuel economy (due to weight), and of course cost. Ford offers two engine types (PDFi and EcoBoost), but there is not a diesel option for the Transit. The drive train options are AWD or rear wheel drive. Ford offers many build options that are helpful for camper van conversion. Note that some options are only available in specific models or years. Here is a quick take on some of the most popular options. 253-degree Rear Door Opening – useful if you need easy access to the garage to load and unload gear. 4-way manual swivel Driver and 4-way manual swivel Passenger seats – provides factory swivel seats. Auxiliary Fuel Port Extension Line – allows easy connection of an air heater to the fuel tank without the dreaded task of “dropping the fuel tank” during the install. Auxiliary Heater / AC Prep Package – comes with “stub lines” for the radiator coolant to allow easier connection to an IsoTemp water heater. Cargo Tie-Down Hooks – a low-cost option that provides threaded holes throughout the cargo area that are extremely useful for connecting your electrical system chassis ground. Digital Rearview Mirror – lets the driver see behind the vehicle virtually while driving. Extended Range Fuel Tank – increases the size of the fuel tank from 25 gallons to 31 gallons. Dual AGM Batteries – provides protection from running down your starter battery and is one of the factory options many van builders look for to help connect their electrical setups. Dual Alternator – can be valuable for higher-power charging setups. Check out this post for way more detail on Dual AGM Batteries, Dual Alternator and Ford Customer Connection Points for your Transit electrical systems. Front Overhead Shelf – provides a tiny bit of extra storage space and useful mounting points. Large Center Console – provides more drink holders and nooks and crannies between the driver and passenger areas. Power Sliding Door or Close Assist Feature – helps close the sliding door and minimizes that clanking door sound from slamming the heavy door closed. For DIY builds, you should understand the Body & Equipment Mounting Manual. The BEMM “provides general descriptions and advice for modifying vehicles” in Ford-speak. The BEMM details many important items that you need to know in a van conversion: Where and where not to drill and cut during the build How to interface to the Ford battery system Where to access chassis grounds How to access the roof rack mounting points Locations of airbags, safety equipment, and driving aid sensors Body mounting points My Experience with a Transit Camper Van Build I love my high roof, extended length Transit. The high roof Transit provides the most internal headroom of the big three (except for the Super High Roof ProMaster that has other limitations), which is high enough to comfortably stand in the aisle and support a bed lift that converts the garage into a dinette and workspace for rainy days. The length provides more than enough room for a queen-length bed, a sink and cookspace, a shoilet, and of course storage. The roof is large enough for an air conditioner, a rooftop fan, solar, and antennas for TV and internet. More broadly, the Transit worked well for the kind of camper van conversion I wanted – something capable enough for travel and boondocking, but still comfortable and practical to live with. Transits are not true off road vehicles, but they are perfectly capable in appropriate conditions. Transits can be modified with an aftermarket body lift, which then allows larger tires for more ground clearance and comfort on unmaintained roads. I’m still not doing the Rubicon in my Transit though. The extended length Transit in particular has a terrible departure angle, so you just need to be mindful of where you’re taking your rig. The van drives great with easy handling in all but extreme crosswinds (I’m talking to you, front range winds!). For a little perspective, here are some post-build numbers from my Transit build. Height is just under 10’ due to body lift and larger tires with rooftop A/C and vent fan. Fully loaded weight is approximately 9300 lbs with a 30 gallon fresh water tank. Ground clearance is roughly 8” to the differential. Ford Transit Camper Van Pros and Cons Does the Ford Transit have some disadvantages? Sure. The van is widest at mid-height. The Transit body is curved in all three directions, making cabinet building and installation…more fun? Transits are known to be fairly narrow in the cabin, so traversing between the driver and passenger seats or even trying to swivel the seats with the doors closed is a bit of a challenge. I’ve also had a fair share of recalls, and the workmanship is okay but doesn’t scream luxury brand. As an example, the threaded holes on the roof to accept mounting adapters are sometimes misaligned with the covers to access said holes. I consider myself lucky that my holes were accessible and didn’t require some grinding to complete my roof rack install. That said, no van is perfect, and I can live with these tradeoffs. On the plus side, the Transit checked the boxes that mattered most to me: AWD availability, useful factory options, strong service access, good headroom, and enough space to build the layout I wanted. If those same things matter most to you, a Ford Transit is a strong camper van platform to consider. Final Thoughts If you’re trying to choose the best van for a camper conversion, there is no perfect answer. ProMasters, Sprinters and Transits all have strengths and weaknesses. For me, AWD, lower expected cost of ownership, easier service access, and the right mix of factory options made the Transit the clear winner. I rented a ProMaster and Sprinter, then I picked a Transit. I certainly have no regrets. If you’re still comparing vans, I’d strongly recommend doing what I did – rent or borrow before you buy. A few days of real-world use will teach you more than hours of reading opinions on the internet. Frequently Asked Questions – Ford Transit Camper Van Conversion Is a Ford Transit good for a camper van conversion? Yes. A Ford Transit is a strong camper van platform because it offers multiple sizes, useful factory options, available AWD, and broad service access across North America. It is not perfect, but it gives many DIY builders a very practical mix of capability, comfort, and ownership simplicity. Why choose a Ford Transit over a ProMaster or Sprinter? For me, the Transit gave the best overall mix of AWD availability, factory options, lower expected cost of ownership than a Sprinter, and easier service access. A ProMaster or Sprinter may be a better fit for some builders, but those were the factors that pushed the Transit to the top of my list. Is Ford Transit AWD good enough for vanlife? For most vanlife use, yes. The Transit is not a true off-road vehicle, but AWD is very helpful for snowy roads, wet conditions, and forest roads with variable conditions. I wanted it for peace of mind, not because I was trying to turn the van into a hardcore trail rig. What Ford Transit options are best for a camper conversion? That depends on your build, but some of the most useful factory options can include swivel seats, an extended range fuel tank, 253-degree rear door opening, auxiliary fuel port extension line, overhead shelf, and certain electrical-related options. It is worth thinking through your build goals before buying the van, because the right factory options can make the conversion much easier. What are the downsides of a Ford Transit camper conversion? The Transit does have tradeoffs. The body is curved in all three directions, which can make cabinet work and installation more complicated. The cabin is also fairly narrow, especially when moving between the front seats. I have also had my fair share of recalls, and the workmanship does not exactly scream luxury brand. None of that makes it a bad choice, but those are real tradeoffs to consider. Should I rent a ProMaster, Sprinter or Transit before buying? Absolutely. Renting or borrowing a van before buying is one of the best ways to make a smarter platform decision. A few days of real-world driving and living in a van will teach you a lot about comfort, layout, visibility, storage, and what features actually matter to you. That experience was a big help in my own decision. Additional Resources Ford Transit page. Use Build & Price to see all of the Ford options. Ford Transit Body & Equipment Mounting Manual Search by Model and “mounting manual” to find your model year BEMM. Ford Transit USA Forum is an active community of Transit owners and DIY camper van conversion enthusiasts.
Learn more
Victron Lynx Distributor Fuse Size Guide: Mega Fuse Selection Chart
The Victron Energy Lynx Distributor is a really convenient device that provides both positive and negative bus bars, along with four fuse locations for power distribution to your chargers and loads. The Lynx Distributor uses Mega fuses, but the right fuse size depends on the specific device in your electrical system. In this short guide, we provide a quick reference for manufacturer-recommended Lynx Distributor fuse sizes for common components like Victron MultiPlus inverter/chargers, Orion DC/DC chargers, MPPT charge controllers, Wakespeed alternator setups, and load centers. We recommend a Lynx Distributor as part of your camper van electrical system in all of our free example wiring diagrams, whether or not your system includes other Victron Lynx devices. This blog is short and sweet – keep reading for a quick reference guide to choosing fuses for your Lynx Distributor, This guide applies to both M8 and M10 Lynx versions that use the same Mega fuses. How To Choose The Right Lynx Distributor Fuse Size The Lynx Distributor uses Mega fuses. Mega fuses support fuse ratings from 40 Amps up to 500 Amps. Many customers contact us looking for help with Lynx Distributor fuse size selection. How do we pick fuse ratings? We read the manual! In most cases, the device manufacturer already tells you the recommended fuse size, so this guide simply pulls those recommendations into one place for quick reference. That is especially helpful for common van electrical components like inverter/chargers, DC/DC chargers, MPPT charge controllers, secondary alternators, and load centers, where fuse size can vary quite a bit by model and system voltage. Common Fuse Sizing Mistakes Choosing the right fuse size is not the same thing as sizing your cable. A fuse recommendation helps protect the branch circuit and connected device, but cable size still needs to be chosen based on current, cable length, voltage drop, insulation rating, and installation conditions. In other words, do not assume the fuse size automatically tells you which wire size to use. We recommend using the Blue Sea Circuit Wizard to help with cable sizing. DC/DC chargers and MPPT charge controllers can also require a little extra attention. With many DC/DC chargers, the house battery side needs a fuse, and the vehicle battery side does too. With MPPTs, the battery-side fuse is only part of the picture, and a solar-side disconnect is often recommended as well. This chart is meant to give you a quick starting point for the Lynx Distributor side of the system, while still pointing you back to the manufacturer documentation for full installation details. Victron Lynx Distributor Fuse Chart By Device Use the chart below to find manufacturer-recommended Mega fuse sizes for common devices used with the Victron Lynx Distributor. Select the column for your system voltage. Match your device model exactly. Use the manufacturer-recommended fuse size shown. Confirm cable size and installation details separately. Device System Voltage 12 Volts 24 Volts 48 Volts Inverter/charger MultiPlus 12/2000/80300 Amp MultiPlus 12/3000/120400 Amp MultiPlus 24/3000/70300 Amp MultiPlus 48/3000/35125 Amp MultiPlus 48/5000/70200 Amp DC/DC charger OUT House battery side fuseIN Vehicle battery side also requires fuse Orion-Tr Smart 12/12/3060 Amp Orion XS 5060 Amp Orion XS 140060 Amp Orion XS 70 80 Amp 2x Orion XS 50125 Amp 2x Orion XS 1400125 Amp 2x Orion XS 70 175 Amp MPPT charge controller BATT House battery side fusePV solar side disconnect recommended MPPT 100/2040 Amp MPPT 100/3040 Amp MPPT 150/3540 Amp MPPT 100/5060 Amp MPPT 150/6080 Amp MPPT 150/7080 Amp MPPT 150/85100 Amp Secondary alternator 280XP300 Amp 55XP200 Amp 51V-HPX100125 Amp Load center (12 Volts) Primary fuse to branch fuses in load center Direct to load center80 Amps Orion 24/12-80 to load center60 Amps Orion 48/12-60 to load center 40 Amps 2x Orion-Tr 48/12-30 to load center40 Amps Example wiring diagram uses Littelfuse holder with 80 Amps for additional capacity. See Bonus Tips below Bonus Tip #1: Blown Fuse Monitoring The Lynx Distributor has a power LED as well as four fuse status LEDs. These LEDs can help you detect blown fuses. If the Lynx Distributor is connected to a Lynx Smart BMS (using the RJ10 cable) then the fuse status can be viewed with the VictronConnect app or by using a Cerbo GX and touch screen. If you do not use all four Mega fuse locations in your Lynx Distributor, you will see false alarms from the unused locations (because having no fuse is an “open” just like a blown fuse). We recommend installing spare Mega fuses in unused fuse locations to work around this nit. If you don’t have a Lynx device connected to your Lynx Distributor to power the LEDs, then you may want to check out the Turning On The LED Lights On The Lynx Distributor hack in this blog. Bonus Tip #2: Using a 5th fuse or connection with a Lynx Distributor If you use up all four Lynx Mega fuse holders but still need another fuse location (or three), we recommend a few ways to expand. A MRBF Terminal Fuse Block and fuse fits nicely on the “upper right” positive stud of the Lynx Distributor. For a single extra fused branch, wire your extra charging source or load directly to the MRBF. The MRBF can be expanded with a Littelfuse MIDI Fuse Holder (3 Position) which acts as a compact secondary bus bar for up to 200 Amps of maximum current with three MIDI fuse holders. MIDI fuses range from 30 Amps and up. Using a short (less than 7”) cable, you can bolt a lug directly to the “upper right” positive stud and use an inline fuse holder (that comes with some devices like air conditioners), a Mega Fuse Holder, or a MIDI Fuse Holder. Frequently Asked Questions What fuse size should I use for a Victron Lynx Distributor? The Lynx Distributor uses Mega fuses, but the correct fuse size depends on the specific device connected to that fused branch. In most cases, the best place to start is the device manual. This guide is meant to save you time by pulling together manufacturer-recommended fuse sizes for common devices like MultiPlus inverter/chargers, Orion DC/DC chargers, MPPT charge controllers, Wakespeed alternator setups, and load centers. Does the Victron Lynx Distributor use Mega fuses? Yes. The Victron Lynx Distributor uses Mega fuses for up to four positive fused connections. Mega fuses are a good fit for many camper van electrical system components because they are available in a wide range of current ratings and are commonly used for higher-current branches like inverter/chargers, chargers, and load centers. What is the difference between Victron Lynx Distributor M8 and M10? The main difference is the stud size on the bus bars. The M10 model uses M10 studs for interconnecting other Lynx devices or external lugs, while the M8 version uses M8 studs. For either version, the fuse connections require M8 lugs. The M10 version replaced the M8 version, so most newer systems will use M10. Can I use a Lynx Distributor without a Lynx Smart BMS? Yes. A Lynx Distributor can be used as a standalone set of positive and negative bus bars with four fused connections. It does not require a Lynx Smart BMS to function. That said, if you want certain LED and monitoring features to work through the broader Lynx system, you may need another Lynx device such as a Lynx Smart BMS or Lynx Shunt. Do I need a fuse on both the input and output side of a DC/DC charger? Yes. For DC/DC chargers, it is common for the house battery side to require a fuse and for the vehicle battery side to require one as well. The exact setup depends on the charger model and your wiring layout, so always confirm with the manufacturer documentation. This guide is intended as a quick reference, not a substitute for the installation manual. What does a Victron Lynx Distributor do? A Victron Lynx Distributor provides a clean way to distribute both positive and negative power in your electrical system while also giving you four fused positive connections for major devices and branches. In practical terms, it helps organize your system, reduce wiring clutter, and add overcurrent protection to important circuits like chargers, inverter/chargers, and load centers. Do I connect both negative and positive to the Lynx Distributor? Yes, the Lynx Distributor contains two separate bus bars. The red, top bar is for positive, and the black, bottom bar is for negative. How do I connect a Cerbo GX to a Lynx Distributor? A Lynx Distributor does not bolt directly to a Cerbo GX. A Lynx Shunt or Lynx Smart BMS is required to transmit data to a Cerbo GX. Additional Resources Learn about our systems and free example wiring diagrams Victron Energy Lynx Distributor manual
Learn more
Vanlife Roadmap Podcast: Ep. 5
From Problem to Product – How Dutch Built The Bug Wall Vanlife promises fresh air, open doors, and a closer connection to nature. It also comes with mosquitoes. For Dutch, that small but persistent problem became the spark for something much bigger. What started as a way to make camping more comfortable for his family eventually turned into The Bug Wall – a product now used across the vanlife community. Before Dutch was building products for camper vans, he had spent most of his life building things with his hands. He describes himself as a longtime finish carpenter who worked closely with his dad, learned tools early, and spent years solving practical problems through custom work. That background matters in this episode because it helps explain why his path into vans, and later into The Bug Wall, started with doing rather than theorizing. A builder before he was a vanlifer Dutch did not come into vanlife from a product or startup background. He came into it through family camping, carpentry, and a habit of figuring things out for himself. Before the van, he had already rebuilt a truck camper for family travel, and before that he had years of experience with tools, home remodeling, and custom fabrication. He also had enough automotive experience to feel comfortable taking on the systems side of a van build, even when some of it was new territory. That combination is part of what makes this conversation useful. Dutch is not telling a polished founder story. He is describing what happened when a hands-on person built a van for his family, ran into real problems, and kept solving them one by one. The first van forced real tradeoffs When Dutch decided to build a van, he was not building for solo travel or occasional weekends. He was trying to make a van work for a family of four, with four seats, sleeping space, and an indoor bathroom his wife strongly wanted. That quickly turned the build into an exercise in tradeoffs. He says he used thick cardboard mockups inside the van just to help visualize the layout and understand how quickly space disappeared once he added a rear seat and shower. That is one of the stronger themes in the episode. Vans are small, and good ideas start colliding with each other fast. A feature can sound easy in theory, then consume a surprising amount of room once it becomes real. For Dutch, those decisions were not abstract. They were tied to how his family would actually use the van. He also did not wait until the van was perfectly finished before using it. He says they took many trips while the build was still bare bones, using sleeping bags and taking the van to the mountains, on family visits, and on longer drives. That mattered because it let real use shape the build instead of leaving every decision to imagination. One of his clearest lessons is to keep things simpler Another valuable part of the episode is how candid Dutch is about what he would change. In that first van, he chose a hydronic heating setup because he wanted hot water for the shower. At the time, there were not many ready-made kits, so he pieced the system together himself and tested it on a bench before installing it. In hindsight, he says that is one of the main choices he would undo. He describes the system as too fussy, too dependent on extra controls and workarounds, and much more complicated than he wanted once the van was in use. What worked better for him was the simpler stuff. Two roof fans worked well. A straightforward electrical setup worked well. The van did not need an elaborate system to do what his family actually needed it to do. That lesson carried into his newer van too. He says he still prefers simple, ready-made systems where possible, even if they cost more up front, because they can save time and complexity during a DIY build. That idea shows up again and again in the conversation. Complexity is not always sophistication. Sometimes it is just more to install, more to monitor, and more to troubleshoot later. The screen problem appeared in the middle of the build The origin of The Bug Wall did not come from a business plan. It came from a family problem Dutch had not fully considered. While building the van, his wife asked what would happen once they opened those large door openings in mosquito-heavy places. Dutch says screens were not even on his original list because their earlier truck camper already had screened openings built in. The van did not. Once he looked at the size of the sliding door opening, he realized how big the problem really was. Dutch wanted airflow. He wanted the van to feel open. He did not want his family getting eaten alive. And the options available at the time were, in his words, extremely expensive. So he did what he had already been doing throughout the build – he tried to make his own solution. The first versions were rough, and that was part of the point Dutch is clear that the early versions were not good. He and his wife worked on them at home, with his wife doing most of the sewing on the first attempts. The first few screens for his own van went through multiple rounds before they were even remotely acceptable. He used whatever materials were available locally because he was not trying to launch a company. He was just trying to solve the problem at a cost that made sense for his own family. That iterative process is one of the most useful parts of the episode for DIY builders. Dutch did not find the answer by having the perfect design on day one. He found it by making something, discovering what did not work, starting over, and improving it again. He describes that kind of problem solving as fairly natural to him because so much of his earlier carpentry work involved one-off projects with no exact template to follow. The product improved further once he could test across multiple vans. A friend had a ProMaster, another had a Sprinter, and Dutch had a Transit. That gave him real-world opportunities to refine fit and function across the major platforms instead of guessing from a single van. From personal fix to real business At some point, the project shifted. Once Dutch saw that the design was becoming workable across different vans, and once he compared it to the expensive options already on the market, he started to think it might be a real product. He says he first offered it publicly in August 2020, and he still remembers the first sale to someone he did not know. That was the moment the idea became more than a solution for his own van. The growth that followed was not especially polished. Dutch describes the earliest operation as a folding table in his garage, then a move into real shop space once demand outgrew the garage. Orders increased quickly, and he and his family adapted as they went. Over time, that meant better materials, better sewing, more help, and a more legitimate production setup. It also meant dealing with supply issues, lead times, and the normal growing pains that come when a side project turns into a real business. That part of the story is interesting on its own, but it is also useful because it shows how often businesses in this space begin. Not with a grand strategy, but with a real problem, repeated use, enough persistence to improve the answer, and just enough demand to prove the answer matters to other people too. The bigger lesson is not really about screens The screen story is memorable, but the broader value of the episode is Dutch’s advice about building vans around actual use. Near the end of the conversation, he says one of the most common mistakes he sees is people overcomplicating their build or building for an imagined use case instead of the way they will really travel. He talks about people making vans too house-like for an adventurous style of travel, or going too minimal when what they really want is more comfort and usability. His advice is to figure out how the van will actually be used, then keep the build as simple as possible to support that. That advice feels especially credible because it runs through his whole story. He learned it in the family van layout. He learned it through the hydronic system he would not choose again. He learned it in the design of The Bug Wall. And he learned it by seeing how people come back from real trips and suddenly realize what actually matters. He also makes the point that screens are not only about mosquitoes. They are about airflow, comfort, and making the van easier to live in. They let people leave doors open, move in and out more easily, and avoid constantly opening and slamming a large sliding door around camp. That is a good example of how a small product can solve a big quality-of-life problem. The takeaway for DIY builders What makes Dutch’s story worth listening to is not just that he turned an annoyance into a business. It is that his process reflects something many DIY builders need to hear. Start with the problem in front of you. Build for how you really live. Do not confuse more complicated with more capable. And do not wait for the perfect master plan before taking the first step. For this episode, that might be the most durable lesson. The Bug Wall came from one practical question inside one family van. But the mindset behind it applies much more broadly. Real use reveals what matters. Simplicity often holds up better than complexity. And many good van decisions start the same way Dutch describes his own process – with step one.
Learn more
Vanlife Roadmap Podcast: Ep. 4
What 50 Camper Van Builds Taught Clayton About Layouts, Electrical, and Real Use Before Clayton was building camper vans, he was building and fixing just about everything else. In this episode of Vanlife Roadmap, he shares a path that starts in small-town Oregon, runs through cars, motorcycles, custom fabrication, and a one-man van build shop in Arizona, and eventually lands at a practical view of vanlife that is shaped less by trends than by real-life use. The throughline is easy to spot – build it well, make it work for real life, and do not assume the nicest-looking idea will hold up best once you start living with it. He learned to build by necessity Clayton describes growing up without much money, which meant many of the things he wanted had to be built, repaired, or adapted from something broken. That started early. He says he built his first car at age 12 and spent his teen years working on engines, transmissions, suspension, paint, and whatever else a project needed. By high school, he and a friend were advanced enough in their auto shop class that their teacher let them bring in their own projects and effectively demonstrate for the class. That early hands-on background matters because it helps explain the rest of the story. Clayton did not come into vans as someone learning to use tools for the first time. He came into vans as someone who had already spent years solving mechanical and fabrication problems with his hands. That experience later made the van platform attractive for a simple reason – it combined the creativity of custom building with the mechanical side of vehicle modification. From cars to motorcycles to custom fabrication After cars came motorcycles. Clayton worked at BMC Choppers, where he says he was building around 30 bikes a month, and later spent time at West Coast Choppers after Jesse James recognized him from a TV appearance and offered him a builder role. He describes that period as valuable not only because of the visibility of those shops, but because of the chance to keep refining his fabrication skills around high-end custom work. That chapter eventually ran into the 2008 housing crisis. As demand in that world dried up, Clayton shifted into sales while continuing to run a custom shop on the side, mostly working on his own hot rods and lowriders. Vans were not yet the center of the story. That came later. Vans entered the picture during the pandemic Clayton says his first real exposure to modern camper vans came through a friend who had built one and was using it to work long hospital shifts, then head into the mountains for long stretches during his off time. At first, the idea did not fully click. He says he was picturing an older van where you had to crawl around inside, not a tall Sprinter you could stand up in. Once he saw the van in person, though, that changed quickly. From there, he started doing his own research and was immediately drawn in. For someone who already liked building custom things, a van offered a lot at once – cabinetry, layout, systems, electrical, storage, suspension, wheels, bumpers, lights, and all the puzzle-solving that comes with fitting real function into a small space. He bought a 2019 Sprinter, built it himself, and quickly discovered both the appeal and the compromises of his first layout. His first van taught him what looked good and what actually worked One especially useful part of this conversation is how clearly Clayton separates ideas that look appealing from ideas that work well over time. In his first van, he knew he wanted a shower, a bathroom, and a real kitchen. He cooks often, wanted a larger sink, and knew he needed more amenities than the minimalist bed-and-cooler setup he had first seen in his friend’s build. But he also chose a dinette layout that, in his words, looked great in pictures. What he found in real use was that breaking down and rebuilding the bed every day was a hassle, and the social vision he had in mind for that seating area did not really play out. That lesson stuck. He sold the van quickly, bought another, and reworked the layout around more openness and easier daily use. The second version kept the kitchen and shower but simplified the sleeping setup and improved the flow through the rear of the van. That second van also helped push him toward a bigger realization – since people kept asking who built his van and whether he could build one for them, there must be a business opportunity there. A custom van business grew from real demand Clayton says he launched his Arizona van build business in 2021 after selling his second van, buying two more, getting a shop, and setting up to build for customers. Business came through word of mouth and direct interest from people who saw the vans in person and wanted something similar. Over about four years, he completed more than 50 full van builds, plus another 50 partial builds. And he never built the same van twice. Each customer had different priorities, different must-haves, and different ideas about how they wanted to use the vehicle. That flexibility helped him win work. It also made the shop less efficient. Clayton is candid about that tradeoff. Fully custom layouts brought in customers who did not want to choose from a small menu of standard floor plans, but they also required more time, more measuring, and more problem-solving on every build. It was good for differentiation, but harder on production. Craftsmanship mattered more than scale Another strong theme in the episode is Clayton’s frustration with inconsistent workmanship. He describes trying to grow the shop with additional help, only to find that not everyone cared about craftsmanship or quality to the same degree. In practice, that often meant he was redoing work, paying for labor twice, and losing both time and margin in the process. He ultimately pared things back and worked more closely with one trusted carpenter, while personally touching every van in the shop each day. That experience seems to have reinforced something he already believed – quality is not just about having the right ideas. It depends on execution, materials, and the discipline to do the job well the first time. That mindset shows up in how he talks about electrical systems, cabinetry hardware, and even plywood. In a van, vibration, moisture, temperature swings, and rough roads expose weak decisions quickly. Cheaper drawer slides rattle. Cheap latches fail. Lower-grade wood warps. Saving money up front can create far more frustration later. The most memorable builds were not always the most practical Clayton shares several examples of unusual requests from customers – stainless showers, tile work, hidden compartments, electronically released false floors, steam showers, espresso machines, convection ovens, and highly customized storage. Those details are interesting on their own, but they also reveal something more useful. Custom work can be impressive. It can also create bigger demands on the rest of the build. A steam shower needs power. A heavily appointed kitchen changes layout priorities. Specialized storage solutions add complexity. None of that is automatically wrong. But the conversation suggests that every choice in a van has consequences, and those consequences usually spread into other systems. That is one reason Clayton repeatedly comes back to quality parts and careful planning rather than just feature accumulation. What DIY builders keep asking Clayton helped DIY builders through Vanlife Outfitters in 2025, and he says many of the biggest questions still center on the same things – air conditioning, refrigerators, heaters, and electrical systems. His answers are practical rather than absolute. On air conditioning, his view is that the right answer depends mostly on where you plan to camp. It is possible to live without AC. Plenty of people do. But that choice affects comfort, power planning, and how the van will feel in different climates. On refrigerators, his own bias is toward getting the largest one you can reasonably fit, partly because he uses a lot of food and wants the convenience of standing items up rather than constantly unpacking a top-loader to reach the bottom. On electrical questions, the theme is less about one exact answer and more about taking the system seriously. He says many callers are trying to figure out amp-hour needs, fuse placement, wire gauge, or whether certain upgrades can wait. That is where his advice gets especially useful. One of his clearest lessons is to plan for future upgrades early Clayton makes a strong case for doing certain electrical planning before you think you need it. He points to heaters and air conditioners as good examples. Even if someone is not ready to install one immediately, he would often pre-run wiring so the van was ready later. The logic is straightforward – adding major electrical equipment after cabinets, walls, and headliners are already finished can turn a manageable decision into a painful retrofit. That is not glamorous advice, but it is durable advice. It reflects the kind of lesson people usually learn only after they have already committed to a build path. Planning ahead for likely future needs can preserve flexibility and prevent a lot of unnecessary teardown later. The biggest mistake he would warn people about When Clayton talks about mistakes from his early vans, his clearest example is using lower-quality electrical components from a heavily marketed company that did not hold up and did not provide meaningful support. He does not name the brand, but the lesson is easy to understand – a cheaper part is not really cheaper if it fails early or leaves you without help when something goes wrong. That is especially true in a van, where systems are tightly interconnected and troubleshooting can quickly become stressful. His takeaway is simple – use quality components, value expert support, and avoid making short-term savings your main decision filter. For DIY builders, that is one of the most practical insights in the episode because it applies well beyond one product category. Why he stepped away from building full time Clayton says he originally hoped the business would let him travel more. In reality, it pulled him in the opposite direction. Instead of freedom, he found himself working extreme hours in Arizona heat, carrying too much of the business himself, and drifting further from the lifestyle that had helped draw him into vans in the first place. Combined with personal loss in his family over that period, the imbalance eventually pushed him to stop, finish his last build, and step into a more travel-focused chapter of life. That part of the story adds an important layer to the episode. It is a reminder that even in a freedom-oriented industry, it is possible to build a business that gives other people flexibility while losing your own. Clayton’s decision to walk away from that pace gives added weight to the advice he now gives about designing around actual use and actual priorities. What he still would not skip Asked what he would never skip in a future van, Clayton’s answer is immediate – an indoor shower and bathroom. For him, that is not a luxury item. It is central to how he wants to live in a van, especially when traveling full time. That does not mean it is the right answer for everyone. In fact, one of the healthier ideas in the conversation is that van decisions are personal. Different people camp differently. Different people cook differently. Different people care about showers, kitchens, seating, storage, and climate control in very different ways. Clayton says he encourages people to rent vans for a weekend and try layouts before committing. That might be the most broadly useful lesson in the episode – test your assumptions before you build around them. The bigger takeaway What makes this conversation useful is not just Clayton’s resume or the number of vans he built. It is the way his experience sharpens a few recurring truths. Real use exposes weak ideas. Cheap parts usually cost more later. Layout decisions that look good on paper can become annoying in daily life. And some of the smartest build decisions are the ones that preserve flexibility before the walls close up. For DIY builders, that is the value of Episode 04. Clayton is not describing vanlife in the abstract. He is describing what changed once the van was actually built, used, sold, rebuilt, and built again for other people. That makes this episode less about inspiration alone and more about judgment – the kind that helps you make better decisions before your own build gets too far down the road.
Learn more
Victron Cerbo GX User Interface Overview: Classic versus New GUI
The Victron Cerbo GX gives you a central way to monitor and control your camper van or off-grid electrical system. Victron has offered two Graphical User Interfaces (GUIs) for several years. The features in the interfaces are almost the same, but the look is Oh. So. Different. If you have a Cerbo GX or Ekrano GX and didn’t realize the flexibility you have for your touch screen appearance, then this post is for you! This blog provides a comparison and explains how to switch between the Victron Cerbo user interfaces, the Classic GUI and the New GUI. That’s right, there’s another super thoughtful name from Victron…”New GUI”. We can’t wait to talk about the “New New GUI” in another few years. Feel free to check out this video from Victron highlighting the New GUI. Keeping reading for our take. And let’s get this out of the way: I’m biased. I’m on Team New GUI. The look is a little sleeker, more information is available on fewer pages, and it takes less taps to navigate. We’re starting to see some features available only on the New GUI, and we expect that trend to continue. But to be honest for now both user interfaces offer essentially the same information. Before we dive into the details, check out this high-level comparison of the two interfaces. Feature Classic GUI New GUI Default display Often yes No Firmware version Any version v3.50 or higher Layout style Familiar look More modern Navigation More taps Fewer taps Future feature support Stable Stable Stronger moving forward Best for Familiarity New installs Long term use Classic GUI Most customers are familiar with the Classic GUI Overview page. Chances are that you received a Cerbo GX needing a firmware update, and Classic is the default. Everything (well, almost everything?) you need to know about configuring and using the Classic user interface is covered in this previous blog post. Tapping the Overview screen gives you the Menu option, and you can scroll down to the Settings options. We want to call out two specific Settings pages in this blog: Menu -> Settings -> Firmware -> Online updates is where firmware updates can be completed. Don’t forget that your Cerbo needs a good Wi-Fi connection to the internet for firmware updates as covered in our setup blog. Menu -> Settings -> Display & language -> User interface is how to customize your touch screen display. In particular, this page is where to switch from Classic GUI to New GUI. You must install firmware v3.50 or higher to use the New GUI. And don’t worry, when selecting an interface you’re not making a life commitment. Feel free to switch back and forth between the two user interfaces to see which one is best for you. You may have heard of a powerful add-on for the Victron display called GuiMods. Victron incorporated many of the GuiMods enhancements into the New GUI, so now GuiMods is deprecated and not necessary. We highly recommend running the New GUI, and these included features are one of the reasons! New GUI The New GUI features an improved layout requiring less navigation and presenting more information on each screen. As in Classic, you tap the screen to “wake” the interface, and your primary screen navigation options show along the bottom. In the New GUI, these pages are termed Brief, Overview, Levels, Notifications, and Settings. You have the capability to set the default Start page that’s shown after the screen returns from sleep, and you can hide certain screens like Brief to suit your preferences. There is also a Boat page that can be enabled as the 6th main navigation screen. The pages shown below are with the Display mode set to Dark. You can also set the Display mode to Light. The Brief page shows charging sources on the left, State of Charge & a snapshot of Levels in the middle, and loads on the right. Brief is exactly that, a brief high-level summary of your system status. The Overview page is similar to the Classic Overview. As in the Brief page, sources are on the left and loads are on the right. You can tap each source or load to “dive in” to an expanded view of each device. The center of the Overview shows your battery bank and your inverter/charger (is it a charging source or is it a load!? Yes!? depending on what’s plugged in.) Some quick navigation icons are shown at the top left of any page that’s “awake”, as shown in the following screenshots starting with the Overview. These icons provide quick navigation to set your inverter/charger mode (On, Charger only, or Off) and to control switches & relays. Victron will probably add even more icons here over time. The Levels page shows all connected Tanks levels and temperature sensors (Environment in Victron-speak). The Notifications page shows warnings and alarms from all connected devices. These notices include 3rd party devices like SOK batteries with Victron Communications and the Wakespeed regulator in a secondary alternator kit. If everything is swell in your system, it should read No current alerts like the picture below. If you’ve got an alarm that you can’t resolve, maybe it’s time to contact us. The Settings page is used primarily during your commissioning phase. The Settings -> General -> Display page is useful for tailoring many display preferences to suit your needs. As in Classic, we’ll call out two specific New GUI Settings pages pertinent to this blog: Settings -> General -> Firmware -> Online updates is where firmware updates can be completed. Don’t forget that your Cerbo needs a good Wi-Fi connection to the internet for firmware updates as covered in our updated setup blog. Settings -> General -> Display & Appearance -> User interface is how to customize your touch screen display, including switching back to the Classic GUI from the New GUI. As you can see, the page names and navigation is ever so slightly different between the two interfaces, but the information is comparable. Note that in recent Victron firmware releases, we’re seeing more information that is available only in the New GUI. An example of this is detailed battery cell information for NG batteries. We expect to see more focus on the New GUI in the future, so that’s yet another reason we highly recommend going New. Wrap Up The Cerbo GX user interface lets you customize your camper van touch screen display. For most users, we recommend the New GUI. The Classic GUI is still useful for those that prefer the traditional layout, however some features are now being supported only in the New GUI. Especially when commissioning a new system, we recommend starting by updating the firmware and testing both interfaces. Pick the user interface that works best for you, and enjoy using your system! Please check out all of our products in our store. If you have any questions about the Cerbo GX user interfaces or any of our products, please don’t hesitate to contact us. Frequency Asked Questions 1, What is the Victron Energy Cerbo GX? The Cerbo GX (MK2) is Victron’s communication center that allows you to always have perfect control over your system from wherever you are and maximizes its performance. Simply access the Cerbo directly using a touch screen or remotely using the Victron Remote Management (VRM) portal. 2. What is the difference between the Classic GUI and New GUI on the Cerbo GX? The Victron Cerbo GX New GUI provides a modern, high-speed interface with improved visualization, including more customization, a Brief view, and support for Light and Dark modes. The Classic GUI features a more traditional, boxy layout and color palette. 3. Do I need to update firmware to use the New GUI on Cerbo GX? Yes. Update the Cerbo GX to the latest firmware version (v3.50 or higher) to support the New GUI. 4, How do I switch from Classic GUI to New GUI on the Victron Cerbo GX? First update firmware using the Classic GUI by navigating to Menu -> Settings -> Firmware -> Online updates. Then navigate to Menu -> Settings -> Display & language -> User interface and switch to New GUI. 5. Can I switch back from the New GUI to the Classic GUI on Cerbo GX? Yes. You can switch between the New GUI or the Classic GUI to suit your preferences. In the New GUI, navigate to Settings -> General -> Display & Appearance -> User interface to switch back to the Classic GUI. 6. How do I connect a Cerbo GX to Wi-Fi? In order to perform firmware updates or use the Victron Remote Monitoring (VRM) portal, the Cerbo GX needs a strong Wi-Fi connection. The Cerbo’s internal antenna is not meant for long range connections. Using your touch screen, navigate to Menu -> Settings -> Wi-Fi -> Wi-Fi networks. Select the network name you wish to connect to and press on the empty “field” area on the right side of the password row. This will open a virtual keyboard allowing you to enter the password for the Wi-Fi network. After you enter the password and return to that network’s screen, you should see that the “State” row reads “Connected”. If not connected, either your Wi-Fi strength is too low or you incorrectly entered your password. Try moving your Cerbo closer to the Wi-Fi router if you’re sure that the password is correct. Additional Resources Cerbo GX setup guides: How to configure your system using the Classic GUI How to set up remote monitoring in the New GUI How to configure your system in the VRM with the New GUI Cerbo communication center manual: Victron Energy Cerbo GX Product pages Cerbo GX (MK2) Touch GX
Learn more
Plumbing for Real Life: Showers, Hot Water, and Fast Drains
By Clayton Houser – Professional van builder (50+ full builds) Clayton explains why van plumbing stops feeling “simple” once you live with it – then shows how he plans showers, tanks, hot water, and drain speed so the system feels normal, works daily, and stays serviceable without tearing the van apart. This is the eighth article in Clayton's Van Build series - you can view the series homepage here. Plumbing is one of those systems people assume will be simple until they live with it. A slow sink, a shower that backs up, or a leak you can’t reach turns “minor” decisions into daily frustration. My plumbing philosophy is pretty consistent. I want it to feel normal. I want drains that actually drain, water pressure that feels usable, and a setup I can service without tearing the van apart. Plumbing Starts With One Honest Question Do you want a shower, or just a sink? Most plumbing decisions get easier once you answer that. A sink-only build can be straightforward. A shower changes the whole system – tank sizing, hot water, drain design, and where everything lives. For me, showers matter enough that they show up early in layout. Once the bed decision is made, shower and bathroom decisions are right behind it because they’re big space claims and big system drivers. Why I’m Pro-Shower I’ve lived the “no shower” idea. In theory, it sounds fine – gyms, campgrounds, whatever. In reality, I didn’t use the gym showers, and I never found campground showers I actually wanted to use. I’ve also had an outdoor shower, and where I camped it often turned into either a mess or a privacy problem. After that, I stopped treating a shower as optional. If I’m going to build a van I’ll actually want to live in, I need an indoor shower, and I plan the plumbing, tanks, and hot water around that from the start. I Plumb It Like a House Drain speed matters more than people think There’s almost nothing I hate more than a slow drain, especially in a shower. I’ve used inch-and-a-half drains because I want sinks and showers to drain like a normal home. That’s a big reason I avoid the typical RV drain kit approach. A lot of RV drain kits rely on small expandable hose. That can be fine with tiny RV sinks and low flow, but many of my builds use real sinks and faucets. If your drain can’t keep up, you feel it every day. Sequence Matters I like to plumb while the van is still open Plumbing is easier when access is good. Once walls and cabinets are finished, it gets harder to route lines, mount tanks, and fix mistakes cleanly. One workflow I’ve used is setting the shower and the sink base after the floor is in, then plumbing behind the cabinets while everything is open. I’d rather do that work early rather than “finish the van” and then realize I buried something important. Build It So You Can Fix It Even good plumbing needs attention. You’ll change things. You’ll add something. A fitting will eventually need service. I plan for that. For connections, I’ve used PEX with quick disconnects instead of crimp-on connections because it makes modifications and repairs much more realistic. If a repair requires cutting everything apart, people avoid fixing things until they become bigger problems. I’ve also used an accumulator tank with the pump because it helps water delivery feel smoother and less chattery. Tanks and Plumbing Layout One tank, or split by side, depending on the footprint Tank layout is partly about your needs and partly about your floor plan. If the shower and sink are on opposite sides, I’ve split tanks by side so the system stays clean. In one example, that looks like one tank for the shower side and one for the sink side. It keeps lines shorter and layout more intuitive. I’ve also used ball valves and quick attachments so draining and filling is practical. If someone is dispersed camping, they can drain easily. If they’re somewhere structured, they can hook up and fill cleanly. Fresh water sizing This is how I’ve commonly sized fresh water based on real use: If the van has a shower, I’ve typically run around a 30-gallon fresh tank. If it’s sink-only, I’ve used smaller tanks – around the low-20s gallon range. The point is not a perfect number. The point is matching capacity to how the van is actually used. Water Heaters There are a lot of options for water heaters and, again, it depends on how you will actually use your van. People tend to love having large water heaters. If you need that, Vanlife Outfitters sells some great options. Personally, I prefer smaller water heaters with a water-efficient shower head, but that’s my personal preference. I’ve seen tankless units used in camper vans, but I haven’t installed them myself. Exhaust heat and venting are real constraints in a small space, and I’m not interested in creating problems to solve problems. They can work, but I never thought they were worth it. Showers That Actually Work in a Van A shower can look good on paper and still feel terrible in real life. I’ve used showers that felt too tight, where you’re basically stepping in and out to wash different parts of your body. That’s one reason I’ve liked shower setups that create more usable space while you’re actually using them. One of the roomiest showers I’ve ever had was a fold-down shower with a curtain. The curtain matters. Curtains give you space to move and don’t box you in the way some doors do. Slider doors especially can make a shower feel smaller than it already is. The takeaway is simple. If you’re going to give up space for a shower, make sure it’s a shower you’ll actually use comfortably. Toilets in Tight Footprints Sometimes you have to compromise on “ideal” to make a camper workable for you. In smaller vans, bathroom privacy can be hard to achieve the way you might want. I’ve done layouts where the shower is built into a cabinet and the toilet slides out when needed because there wasn’t room for a bigger, more private setup in that footprint. I’m not saying everyone has to make that tradeoff. I’m saying it can be a realistic compromise when space is limited and the priority is still having an indoor shower and a workable bathroom routine. The point is to be honest about what your footprint can support and choose a bathroom approach you’ll actually use, not just one that looks good on paper. What Comes Next Once plumbing is planned around real usage and built with serviceability in mind, the next step is making sure the rest of your systems follow the same logic – clean layout, logical grouping, and access for future changes. That mindset carries into electrical and everything else you build into the garage space. Frequently Asked Questions About Van Plumbing 1. How do I start planning my camper van plumbing? Start by deciding if you’re building for a shower or just a sink. A shower changes everything – fresh water capacity, gray tank planning, hot water needs, and how much you care about fast drains. 2. What drain size should I use for a camper van sink and shower? I plumb drains like a house because I can’t stand slow drains or standing in water. I use 1½-inch plumbing so sinks and showers drain fast and feel normal, instead of RV plumbing kits that use smaller sizes. 3. Are RV drain kits okay for a camper van build? A lot of people use them, but they’re usually small and don’t drain very fast. If you’re running a real kitchen sink and faucet with decent pressure, those small drain setups can back up quickly. 4. How much fresh water do I need in a camper van? My rule of thumb: about 30 gallons if the van has a shower. If it’s sink-only, I’ve used smaller tanks that are more in the 22–24 gallon range. 5. How do I route camper van plumbing if my shower and sink are on opposite sides? If the sink and shower are on opposite sides, I’ve split the system by side to keep routing clean. I’ll usually put more capacity on the shower side and less on the sink side (for example, 20 gallons shower side and 16 gallons sink side). 6. What plumbing fittings make a camper van easier to service later? I’ve used PEX with quick disconnects instead of crimp-only setups. If you ever need to modify something or fix a leak, you can undo connections cleanly instead of cutting everything apart. 7. How big of a water heater do I need in a camper van? In my experience, people often don’t need as much as they think. I’ve used a 1.5-gallon water heater with a water-efficient shower head and taken 10-minute showers without running out of hot water, but 4- or 6-gallon heaters are more common and might be a safer bet for most. 8. Should I install a propane tankless water heater in a camper van? I have seen tankless units used as outdoor shower setups mounted at the rear door, but I haven’t installed tankless water heaters inside a van because of exhaust heat and venting concerns.I always felt like they added more complexity than is worthwhile. 9. How do I build a camper van shower that doesn’t feel cramped? A standard shower pan can feel tight. The roomiest shower I’ve used is a fold-down setup with a curtain, because the curtain gives you space to move and it doesn’t “close you off” the way some doors do. In a 144, I’ve also done a layout where the shower is built into a cabinet and the toilet slides out when needed because space is limited.
Learn more
Electrical Planning Without the Fear: How to Think About Power in Your Van Build
By Clayton Houser – Professional van builder (50+ full builds) Clayton breaks electrical planning into a simple, calm sequence – start with what you actually use every day, tie power needs to how you travel, and design the system for access and future upgrades so electrical stops feeling like the part that stalls your build. This is the seventh article in Clayton's Van Build series - you can view the series homepage here. Electrical is the part of a van build that scares people the most. I’ve seen it over and over. People can be confident designing layouts, choosing materials, even planning plumbing. But when it comes to electrical, everything slows down. They worry about doing it wrong, buying the wrong components, or locking themselves into a system they couldn’t change later. In reality, electrical doesn’t need to be intimidating. It just needs to be planned in the right order. Most of the problems I’ve seen aren’t caused by bad wiring or wrong components. They come from people trying to design electrical systems before they understand how the van will actually be used. Electrical Is a Result, Not a Starting Point One of the biggest mistakes I see is people jumping straight into electrical diagrams. I’ve seen people buy batteries and inverters early, only to realize later there wasn’t a good place to put them, or that the layout forced compromises they hadn’t planned for. Once components are purchased, people tend to design around them — even when they don’t fit the van well. They often ask: How many batteries do I need? How many solar panels? Should I use inverter X or charger Y? Those questions only make sense after you answer something much simpler:What am I actually trying to power? Electrical sizing is downstream from purpose. If you don’t know how often you’ll travel, where you’ll camp, or how you’ll live day to day, electrical decisions become guesses. That’s how people end up overbuilding systems they don’t use or underbuilding systems they constantly fight. Start With Real Usage, Not Edge Cases When customers described their electrical needs, they often listed everything they might want to do someday. Working full-time remotely. Running power tools. Using induction cooking. Running air conditioning off-grid. Charging multiple bikes and devices at once. Sometimes those needs were real. Often, they weren’t. What mattered more was what happened every day: Phones and laptops Lights Fans Refrigeration Basic accessories When people designed around their daily load instead of worst-case scenarios, systems often became simpler, cheaper, and more reliable. That’s why I rarely treated an electrical system as “finished.” People almost always want to add capacity later, especially batteries. Planning for that possibility early made those upgrades straightforward instead of painful. I’ve never had anyone come back and ask to downgrade their system. It’s always the other direction. People asked me constantly how hard it would be to add more batteries later – sometimes for themselves, sometimes for the next owner. That’s why the least expensive time to future-proof is the first time: run slightly oversized wiring and leave space so adding capacity later doesn’t mean tearing things apart. You can add capability later if you plan for it early. What I’ve seen go wrong is when people build tight and then try to upgrade later – adding batteries or bigger loads can turn into rework fast, if you don’t build in flexibility. So I design around real daily use, then I leave room and wiring for the upgrades people almost always want. Power Needs Are Tied to How You Travel One thing that consistently shaped electrical systems was how the van moved. People who drove frequently had very different needs than people who parked for days at a time. If you’re moving regularly, you can recharge while driving. That changes how much battery you need to carry. If you sit in one place for long stretches, you need to plan differently. Campgrounds versus boondocking mattered too. Shore power reduces stress on a system. Off-grid living increases it. This is why I always tied electrical planning back to the same questions: Where will you be staying? How often will you be moving? How long will you be parked? Electrical doesn’t exist in isolation. It reflects your travel style. Bigger Isn’t Always Better A lot of people assumed bigger systems were safer. More batteries. Bigger inverters. More panels. If the loads you are planning are both big and likely – like air conditioning off-grid, induction cooking, or long stays without shore power – then bigger capacity can be the right answer. But larger systems do come with tradeoffs: More weight More cost More complexity More points of failure Larger systems also take up more space and can make access harder if everything is packed tightly together. I’ve learned that leaving room around components mattered just as much as the components themselves. I saw plenty of vans with impressive electrical systems that owners barely used. And I saw simpler systems that worked flawlessly because they were matched to real needs. The goal isn’t to build the biggest system you can afford. It’s to build one you don’t think about every day. If you’re constantly checking battery percentages or worrying about usage, something is off – either the system is undersized for how you’re living, or it’s built in a way you don’t trust. Sequence Matters More Than Components A common problem I saw was people locking in electrical components too early. Once someone buys batteries, inverters, or chargers, everything else tends to get designed around them – even if they don’t actually fit the van well yet. That usually leads to compromises later, especially once layout and storage start to take shape. Because of that, I focused less on picking components and more on sequencing decisions correctly. Over time, that translated into a few consistent habits in how I planned electrical systems. I often ran extra wiring to likely future locations and left it coiled or capped, oversized wire runs so systems could grow later, and left physical space around electrical components instead of packing everything tightly together. I also tried to keep related components grouped so the system made sense when you looked at it, and avoided routing wires anywhere they’d be impossible to reach later. None of that was about building the “perfect” system on day one. It was about avoiding rework when needs inevitably changed. Electrical components take up space. They need ventilation. They need access. And they don’t exist in isolation – they interact with plumbing, storage, and the structure of the van itself. That’s why I always treated electrical planning as part of the layout, not a separate project. Once the bed height, garage space, and system zones were clear, electrical decisions became much easier to make – and much harder to regret. Design for Access and Change No matter how well you plan, things change. I’ve seen simple issues turn into major problems because a wire was buried inside a wall or pinched in a place that couldn’t be accessed later. When that happens, you’re forced to work around the problem instead of fixing it cleanly. People add gear. Travel styles shift. Power needs grow. That’s why I always thought about electrical systems in terms of access and adaptability. If you can’t reach connections or add capacity later without tearing the van apart, you’re going to regret it. Clean layouts. Logical grouping. Room to work. Those things matter more long-term than squeezing everything into the smallest possible footprint. Fear Comes From Overthinking Most electrical fear comes from trying to solve everything at once. When you break it down: Define how you’ll use the van Identify daily power needs Consider how you recharge Design the layout to support it Electrical becomes manageable. It’s not about memorizing specs or copying someone else’s build. It’s about matching the system to real life and leaving room for change. When people approached it that way, electrical stopped being the scary part of the build. It just became another system that supported how they actually lived. What Comes Next Once electrical planning is grounded in real use and integrated into the layout, the remaining systems start to fall into place. The next step is plumbing, heating, and climate – where simplicity and reliability matter just as much as they do with power. That’s what I’ll cover next. Frequently Asked Questions About Planning Electrical Systems for Camper Vans 1) Why does electrical planning feel so overwhelming in a camper van build? From what I’ve seen, electrical is where people start doubting themselves. It feels less forgiving than layout or cabinetry, and mistakes can be hard to spot once everything is built in. That combination makes people slow down, second-guess decisions, and sometimes overcomplicate things out of fear of getting it wrong. 2) When should I start planning the electrical system in my camper van build? I don’t treat electrical as a standalone phase. I plan it alongside the layout, once I know where major appliances and systems will live. Decisions like whether you’re running air conditioning or cooking electrically affect both layout and power needs, so they have to be considered early – but not before purpose and floor plan are clear. 3) What should I figure out before designing my camper van electrical system? Before thinking about components, I focus on how the van will actually be used. That includes daily habits, travel style, where major loads will be located, and whether you’re building for simplicity or heavier power use. Once those pieces are clear, electrical decisions become much easier to make. 4) Why is it a mistake to plan electrical before knowing how I’ll use my camper van? I’ve seen a lot of people plan electrical systems around everything they might want someday instead of what they’ll actually do most days. That usually leads to systems that feel mismatched – either underpowered for daily use or oversized and expensive for no real reason. Your power system should reflect real life, not imagined scenarios. 5) What’s the difference between daily power needs and worst-case electrical system planning? Daily power needs are what you rely on all the time – lights, devices, fans, refrigeration. Worst-case planning is designing around occasional or unlikely scenarios. When people build for worst cases first, systems get big and complicated fast. I’ve found it works better to design around everyday use and leave room to grow later if needed (because adding capacity is much easier if you plan for it up front). 6) How does the amount I drive affect my van’s electrical planning? How often you drive changes how you recharge. If you’re moving regularly, you can rely more on charging while driving through your primary or secondary alternator. If you tend to park for long stretches, you need to think differently. That’s why I always tie electrical planning back to travel habits, as well, not just appliances. 7) Why does camping style matter for power planning (campgrounds vs boondocking)? Whether you’ll have access to shore power makes a big difference in how much stress your electrical system needs to handle. Campground travel allows for simpler setups. Boondocking means you’re not connected to power, and it demands more independence. I always ask this question early because it shapes expectations more than some people realize. 8) What are the downsides of overbuilding a camper van electrical system? Bigger systems cost more, weigh more, and introduce more complexity. While I’ve sometimes overbuilt systems to avoid reliability issues, I’ve also seen people pay for capacity they rarely use. The goal isn’t maximum power – it’s a system that quietly supports how you live without constant monitoring or frustration. Keep in mind, though, that underbuilding can be just as frustrating as overbuilding – that’s why I tie sizing back to how you travel and what you actually power day to day. 9) Can a simpler electrical system still work well for full-time or long trips? Yes. I’ve worked with people who traveled full-time with very simple electrical needs, and others who needed much more power. What matters isn’t how long you travel – it’s how you live day to day. A simpler system can work extremely well if it’s matched to real usage, like frequent campground visits with shore power connections. 10) How do I know if I’m overthinking my van’s electrical setup? When planning starts to feel paralyzing, that’s usually a sign. Or if you are focusing on “what if” or worst-case scenarios. If you’re jumping between components without being able to clearly explain what you’re powering and how you’ll recharge, it’s time to step back. Electrical should feel logical once the basics are defined. 11) How does camper van layout affect electrical planning? Layout determines where electrical components can live, how wiring runs, and how systems interact with storage and plumbing. I don’t finalize electrical until the bed height, garage space, and cabinet zones are clear. Electrical fits into the rest of the van build – it doesn’t dictate it or float independently. 12) Why is access to electrical components so important in a van build? Even well-built systems need attention. I’ve seen simple issues turn into major headaches because components were buried behind walls or cabinets. If you can’t reach connections, fuses, or wiring, troubleshooting becomes frustrating fast. Good access makes the whole system easier to live with long-term. 13) What problems come from locking in electrical components too early? People almost always want to add something later – more battery, different charging, new gear. If the system wasn’t planned with potential future upgrades in mind, they can mean tearing things apart. Locking in components before understanding future needs usually creates unnecessary rework. 14) How can I plan my electrical system so it’s easier to change later? I plan for change from the beginning. That means leaving space, ensuring easy access, and allowing for expansion rather than boxing everything in tightly. When systems are laid out cleanly, intentionally, and openly, future changes feel manageable instead of overwhelming. 15) Should I size my battery system bigger than I need at the start? I don’t think the answer is automatically “go huge.” I think the right move is to be honest about your likely day-to-day use, then plan for growth from day one. I’ve never had someone ask to downgrade – it’s almost always “how hard is it to add more later?” That’s why I’d rather leave space, access, and wiring capacity now than build tight and hope upgrades are easy later.
Learn more
Designing the Garage: Storage, Systems, and Real-World Tradeoffs
By Clayton Houser – Professional van builder (50+ full builds) When people picture van “layouts,” they usually focus on what they can see. Clayton explains why the garage under the bed is where builds either work smoothly or become a daily frustration – because it’s where storage, electrical, plumbing, access, and real-world gear all collide. This is the sixth article in Clayton's Van Build series - you can view the series homepage here. When people think about van layouts, they usually focus on what they can see — the bed, the kitchen, the finishes. But from a builder’s perspective, the garage is where everything either works together or starts fighting itself. I’ve built a lot of vans where the garage space ended up determining how well the entire build functioned. If the garage is poorly planned, you feel it every day. If it’s done right, the van just works in the background. This isn’t about maximizing storage at all costs. It’s about designing the garage to support how the van will actually be used. The Garage Is More Than Storage In most of the vans I’ve built, the garage wasn’t just for gear. It typically housed: Electrical components on one side Plumbing and tanks on the other Loose gear, tools, or bikes in the remaining space That means the garage becomes the intersection point for multiple systems. If you treat it like an afterthought, you end up with wires crossing plumbing, components stacked on top of each other, and no room to service anything later. From the start, I looked at the garage as a systems zone, not just a place to throw stuff. Start With What Has to Live Inside Before designing shelves or boxes, I always worked backward from the non-negotiables. For many builds, that included: Bikes that needed to stay inside for security Large gear that couldn’t be exposed to weather Electrical cabinets that needed airflow and access Water tanks that couldn’t be placed elsewhere Mountain bikes were one of the biggest layout drivers. Once you commit to storing bikes inside, everything changes — bed height, aisle width, cabinet depth, even how you enter and exit the van. I’ve built vans where two bikes alone consumed nearly half the usable garage space. If that wasn’t planned early, the rest of the build suffered. Bed Height and Garage Height Are the Same Decision People often talk about bed height as a comfort choice. In reality, it’s a garage decision. The bed height sets: How much vertical space you have for gear Whether bike frames can stand upright Where tanks and batteries can be mounted Once the bed height is locked in, the garage is mostly defined. That’s why I always treated those two decisions as inseparable. If you raise the bed to fit gear, you need to accept what that does to headroom and upper cabinetry. There’s no free space in a van — every inch gets traded somewhere else. One garage detail people overlook early is the floor – because it quietly carries most of the load. Subfloor Strength and Mounting (The Garage Depends on It) The garage tends to carry the heaviest loads in the whole van. Water, batteries, tools, recovery gear, heaters, tanks, drawers, cabinets – all of it. Even if those items are mounted to the walls or to framing, the floor is still part of what keeps everything stable. That is why I treat the subfloor as a structural decision, not a finish detail. A higher-quality subfloor stays flatter, holds fasteners better, and gives you a more reliable base for mounting. If you are building a plywood subfloor, marine-grade birch plywood is usually worth it. It tends to be more consistent and void-free, and it holds up better in the moisture and temperature swings that vans live through. For thickness, ⅝” is a great balance of strength and weight for most builds. However, ¾” can be the right choice when you need extra stiffness or you are mounting heavier components through the floor. When it comes to securing the subfloor, I prefer to use factory mounting points when possible. If you do drill new holes, I treat every hole like a future rust spot – so seal them properly (some best practices). If your build is going to “pin down” the floor anyway through cabinetry and bolted components, a floating approach can also work and keeps you from peppering the van with unnecessary holes (and corrosion risk). Keep Systems Accessible (You’ll Thank Yourself Later) One thing I cared about a lot was serviceability. In the garage, I tried to: Keep electrical components grouped and visible Leave room to reach fuses and connections Avoid burying plumbing behind permanent structures Even well-built systems need attention eventually. If you have to remove half the van to access a pump or electrical connection, something went wrong in the design. That’s why I avoided stacking systems vertically whenever possible. Side-by-side layouts are easier to understand, easier to troubleshoot, and easier to change later. Don’t Overbuild the Garage It’s tempting to turn the garage into a maze of drawers, cubbies, and fixed boxes. I saw a lot of builds where that caused more problems than it solved. Heavy materials add up fast. Overbuilt furniture eats payload and limits flexibility. Once it’s in, it’s hard to undo. In many vans, the only permanent structures I installed in the garage were: The bed platform Electrical and plumbing mounts Everything else stayed modular or removable. That approach kept the van lighter, quieter, and easier to adapt. Modular Garages Age Better As Needs Change A lot of people don’t use their vans the same way forever. Some start with: Weekend camping Then add bikes Then transition to full-time travel Or turn the van into a work vehicle later For those builds, modular garages made the biggest difference. I used: L-track for mounting gear and furniture Bolt-in components instead of glue-in Simple framing that could be reconfigured In some builds, the entire garage could be cleared out or reworked in under an hour. That flexibility kept the van useful long after the initial build phase. How to secure cargo safely. Think About Noise, Dirt, and Daily Use The garage is where noise and mess usually originate. Loose gear rattles. Tools shift. Bikes rub. If those issues aren’t addressed early, the van becomes annoying to drive. I paid attention to: Securing items so they couldn’t move Separating dirty gear from living space Avoiding hard-on-hard contact points A quiet van feels better built, even if the layout is simple. Real-World Garage Design Is About Tradeoffs Every garage decision creates a tradeoff: More gear space means less living space Fixed storage means less flexibility Higher beds mean less headroom After building a lot of vans, I never found a perfect solution – only better tradeoffs for how the van was actually going to be used. That’s why I always came back to the same question: What needs to live in this space every day (not every once in a while)? If you can answer that honestly, the garage design becomes much clearer. Final Thought on Garage Design The garage is where most van builds either succeed quietly or fail slowly. If it’s planned early, kept simple, and designed around real use, you stop thinking about it — and that’s the goal. A good garage doesn’t draw attention to itself. It supports the rest of the van without getting in the way. Frequently Asked Questions About Garage Design in Camper Van Builds What is “garage space” in a camper van build? In van builds, the “garage” typically refers to the storage area underneath the bed platform at the rear of the van where gear, systems, and larger items are stored. This space often houses electrical cabinets, plumbing tanks, and large gear — and it’s key to a functional camper layout. How much space do I need to store bikes in the garage? Bike space depends on bike size and how you plan to store them. The safest way to figure this out is with your actual bikes and a tape measure. However, a decent rule of thumb is to plan for up to 5’ long and 3’ high for bikes standing up (without wheels). Are there common strategies for maximizing storage under the bed? Yes — builders often use: Pull-out trays Slide-out storage drawers L-track tie-downs These strategies help secure gear, keep items accessible, and use the available cubic volume effectively. However, as with all decisions in your van build, these come with tradeoffs: Two big ones are accessibility and weight. If this is your first van build, I recommend going simple, with a big open space in the garage for a few months before installing anything permanent. Make sure you really need it before you install anything that makes it difficult to get to the electrical and plumbing systems. How do I decide between fixed and modular storage in the garage? Fixed storage is sturdy and simple, but modular systems (like those that attach with L-track) allow you to reconfigure gear space later. Modular setups typically age better and adapt to changing needs, especially if your life on the road evolves. I highly recommend not installing anything permanent until you’ve used your van for several weeks or months. Should I worry about access to electrical and plumbing systems in the garage? Absolutely — leaving enough space to reach and service electrical components, fuses, and plumbing connections is critical. Accessible system placement reduces frustration and maintenance time, which aligns with best practices in van design. What role does garage height play in design? Garage height drives what can physically be stored underneath the bed. Taller gear like longboards or bikes with wheels off will need extra vertical clearance. Planning bed style and height and garage height together ensures gear can be stored without forced compromises. Is it better to design garage storage before building cabinets? Yes — dimensioning the garage for what must fit before adding cabinets or fixed furniture ensures that storage and system components don’t compete for the same space. This idea reinforces the principle of designing around purpose, not aesthetics. What are some common van garage storage mistakes? Common issues builders encounter include: Building permanent storage that blocks access to systems Not planning for gear size (especially bikes or tools) Ignoring service access Overbuilding heavy cabinetry that affects weight and balance These mistakes often make the garage (and the entire van) harder to use on a daily basis.
Learn more
Insulation & Ventilation: Start With the Floor and Plan for Real Comfort
By Clayton Houser – Professional van builder (50+ full builds) Clayton explains why insulation and ventilation decisions should start with the floor – because thickness, noise, and comfort get locked in early – then walks through practical wall insulation and airflow planning so the van stays livable after everything gets closed up. This is the fifth article in Clayton's Van Build series - you can view the series homepage here. After layout design, the next thing I like to lock in is the floor because it affects both comfort and how easy the rest of the build is. I’ve found it works better to treat insulation and airflow like part of the early structure of the build. The floor, walls, and ceiling are the shell you’ll live inside. If that shell is cold, loud, damp, or hard to work on later, it affects everything that comes after it. Once you’ve made the big space decisions (especially bed height and where your key zones will live), you can build a floor and a shell that supports comfort and future changes. Then you’re ready to move into the garage area and systems with fewer surprises. The Floor Is the Foundation (and It Affects Everything Above It) I think the van floor is one of the most underrated parts of a build. It impacts comfort, noise, insulation performance, and how easy it is to mount and secure things long term. It also ties directly to layout decisions from the last post. I’ve seen people lock in bed height, cabinet height, and storage plans – then add a thicker floor than expected and wonder why the van suddenly feels tighter than it did on paper. If you’re trying to build a van that feels good day to day, the floor is one of the first places I’d build “right” instead of “fast.” My Basic Floor Approach I’ve consistently come back to a simple, durable floor stack-up. A flat, strong subfloor that gives you a reliable surface for mounting and fastening An insulation layer that helps with temperature and road noise A plan that accounts for moisture, not just “R-value” I’m not trying to build a perfect house floor inside a van. I’m trying to build a floor that’s comfortable, quiet, and doesn’t create problems later. Build a Subfloor You Can Trust A plywood subfloor gives you a strong, flat platform and makes everything above it easier. The floor is the foundation of the build. It affects everything from comfort and insulation to cabinetry and how you mount things later. Why I Like Marine-Grade Plywood Marine-grade plywood is built with waterproof adhesive and fewer internal voids than typical construction plywood. Practically, that means better moisture resistance and less chance of warping or soft spots over time. It also tends to have a more consistent core, which matters when you’re fastening into it and mounting cabinets or gear. For thickness, I typically recommend ⅝” or ¾” – with ⅝” being a great balance of strength and weight in most builds. The goal isn’t to overbuild the floor – it’s to make it strong, stable, and predictable so everything you build on top of it goes smoother. Marine-grade costs more up front, but I’ve found the consistency and moisture resistance are worth it for a van floor. A Clean Process That Works Here’s the basic workflow I’ve used. Template firstVans aren’t square. I usually make a template and test-fit it before cutting the final plywood. Cut and test-fit in sectionsI’ve found it’s easier to install the floor in multiple pieces than trying to wrestle one huge panel into place. Seal the plywoodI like sealing the underside and edges to help with moisture resistance. The bottom side is the part that’s closest to a metal floor that can see condensation and temperature swings. Mount it securelyThe point of a subfloor is that it becomes a stable base for your build. I want it fastened well so it doesn’t squeak, shift, or loosen over time. This is one of those steps where doing clean work early pays dividends for the rest of the build. Insulate the Floor for Comfort and Noise (Not Just “Warmth”) Most people think about floor insulation as a cold-weather thing. I think about it as a comfort thing. A floor can be a major source of heat loss, but it’s also a major pathway for road noise and vibration. I’ve found that insulating the floor well tends to make vans feel more “finished” and less like a loud metal box. What I’ve Used for Van Floors For floor insulation, I’ve used 3M Thinsulate AU4002-5 (double scrim). It’s designed for automotive applications, and it’s worked well for the realities of a van floor. Here’s why I’ve liked it in this application. The double scrim layer makes it more durable under compression and friction It’s moisture-resistant and breathable, so trapped condensation has a chance to dry out rather than staying wet It improves thermal performance in both directions (cold weather and hot weather) It helps with acoustic dampening, reducing road noise and vibration It’s lightweight and straightforward to install It’s not the only option, but it’s been a solid option for how I build floors. A Note on Sound Deadening Some people go heavy on sound deadening. I’ve found that a little can go a long way, and you don’t need to cover every inch of the floor to get real benefits. If your goal is maximum quiet, then you should add a sound deadening layer as part of your floor plan. If your goal is a simpler build that is reasonably quiet, then a good insulation layer plus a solid subfloor will make the van both simpler and noticeably quieter. A Straightforward Installation Method (That Doesn’t Overcomplicate It) Floor insulation doesn’t need to be complicated. I’ve used a simple process. Prep and clean the metal floor so the insulation sits cleanly Cut the insulation to fit the floor contours Lay it in place in a way that avoids big gaps Install the plywood subfloor on top One detail that matters is remembering that some insulation can look thick before install, then compress once the subfloor goes down. That can be helpful when you’re doing your headroom math and trying to keep the floor from getting too tall. Walls and Ceiling: What I Use and Why When it comes to wall and ceiling insulation, I’ve tried a few approaches, and I’ve learned that the material choice affects more than temperature. It affects how clean the build stays, how easy it is to change later, and how hard it is to service wiring. Why I Lean Away from Spray Foam I haven’t liked working with spray-foamed vans. The biggest issue I ran into is that it’s much harder to run wires or make changes later – you end up having to dig it out to get anything done. I’ve also heard concerns about toxicity, and I didn’t find the real-world payoff worth the tradeoffs for the way I build. Thinsulate vs Wool (What I’ve Seen) For most of my builds, I’ve leaned toward Thinsulate. It’s clean, it looks good, and if you ever need to remove it – like adding a window later – it’s easier to pull out than something permanent. I’ve used Havelock wool in a couple of vans, but I’ve seen a problem when it gets wet – it can droop down to the bottom of the van and leave the top half without insulation. It also has a tendency to smell when it’s damp, which isn’t great in a small space. For me, Thinsulate has also been one of the easiest DIY options. You measure, cut it, spray adhesive, stick it, and you’re done. In most areas I’ll do at least one layer, and sometimes I’ll double it up depending on the build and the space I’m working with. How Insulation Connects to Wiring and Future Changes This is also where I think ahead to serviceability. I do insulation before wiring, and then I keep wires between the insulation and the wall panels so the interior stays flatter and the wires aren’t glued into the insulation. If wires run through insulation, you can end up with kinks, and it’s harder to fish a wire later if someone wants to add or change something. I’ve learned to build in a way that can come apart. I’ve worked on vans where everything was glued and nailed, and upgrades turned into break-and-rebuild jobs. I’d rather plan for change while the van is open than force someone into a teardown later. Airflow Planning Before You Close Up the Walls Airflow and ventilation are part of the same “shell” decision-making – once the insulation and panels go in, upgrades get harder. Start With a Roof Fan – Plan for the Possibility of A/C Later A roof fan (like a MaxxAir) can be a great starting point for a lot of builds. What I’ve seen happen, though, is people live in the van for a while and realize they want real A/C. That upgrade can get painful fast if the van wasn’t built to come apart cleanly. Don’t Build Yourself Into a Corner This is where insulation work and build methods intersect. If things are glued, nailed, and sealed in a way that makes panels and headliners hard to remove, even a straightforward change can turn into a teardown. I’ve seen people who wanted to go from a roof fan to A/C and ended up having to break apart finished areas because there wasn’t a clean way to access what they needed. What I Do to Future-Proof (Without Installing Everything Up Front) If I think there’s any chance A/C could be added later, I plan for it while the van is still open. One example is running heavy-gauge wire up into the headliner area and coiling it near the fan location, even if the build is only getting a MaxxAir fan at first. I also like running wires between the insulation and the wall panels so the interior stays flat and future wire runs are still possible. If you don’t end up adding A/C, no harm done. If you do, you’ll be glad you planned for it before everything was finished. What Comes Next After you’ve made your layout decisions and built a floor and shell that support comfort, the next step is thinking through the garage space under the bed. That’s where most systems end up living, and it’s where build decisions start to interact in a real way – electrical, plumbing, storage, and access all competing for the same space. That’s what I’ll cover next. Frequently Asked Questions About Insulation and Ventilation in Van Builds 1) What part of a camper van should I insulate first? I like starting with the floor. The floor affects comfort, noise, and how the whole build sits. It also ties directly into headroom and bed height decisions. 2) Why use a plywood subfloor in a camper van instead of building directly on the metal floor? A plywood subfloor gives you a flat, strong surface for mounting and fastening. It makes the rest of the build easier and helps avoid squeaks and shifting over time. 3) Should I template the camper van floor first? Vans aren’t square. I’ve found templating and test-fitting before cutting final plywood saves a lot of frustration and helps you get a tighter fit. 4) Why seal the plywood subfloor of my camper van? Moisture is real in vans. Temperature swings and condensation happen, and I’d rather protect the plywood from the start than hope it never gets damp. 5) What substrate should I use on my camper van floor? Marine-grade plywood is built with waterproof adhesive and fewer internal voids than typical plywood, which helps with moisture resistance and consistency. It costs more up front, but I’ve found it’s worth it for a van floor. 6) What thickness plywood should I use for a camper van subfloor? I typically recommend ⅝” or ¾”. In most builds, ⅝” is a great balance of strength and weight. 7) What insulation do you use for camper van floors? For floor insulation, I’ve used a 3M double scrim Thinsulate (AU4002-5). It’s designed for automotive use and has worked well for the realities of a van floor. 8) Do I need sound deadening if I’m insulating a camper van floor? Not always. Sound deadening can help, but I’ve found insulation plus a solid subfloor already makes a noticeable difference while keeping the build simpler.. 9) What insulation do you use on camper van walls and ceilings? In most builds, I’ve leaned toward Thinsulate because it’s clean, easy to work with, and easier to remove later if you need to change something (like adding a window). For DIY work, it’s one of the simplest options I’ve used – measure, cut, spray adhesive, stick it, and you’re done. 10) Why don’t you like spray foam for camper van walls? I’ve worked on vans that were spray foamed and found it made changes much harder because you have to dig it out to run wires. I’ve also heard concerns about toxicity, and I didn’t feel the tradeoff was worth it for the way I build. 11) Should I use wool insulation in my camper van? I’ve used Havelock wool in a couple of vans, but I’ve seen it droop when it gets wet, leaving the top half without insulation. I’ve also noticed it can smell when it’s damp, which matters in a small space. 12) How do you route wires relative to camper van insulation? I insulate first, then keep wires between the insulation and the wall panels. It helps keep the surface flatter and avoids wires getting glued into insulation, which can create kinks and make future wire-fishing harder if someone adds or changes something later. 13) How does ventilation relate to insulation in a camper van build? Insulation helps you hold temperature. Ventilation helps you manage moisture and comfort. I think of them as a pair – especially if you want a van that feels good in real life, not just parked in a driveway. 14) Should I plan for A/C even if I’m not installing it right away? A roof fan can be enough for a lot of builds, but some people live in their vans for a while and then decide they want A/C. If there’s any chance you’ll want it later, the easiest time to plan wiring paths, space, and access is before everything is finished and closed up.
Learn more