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Mike's Van Build Podcast: Ep. 4
Episode 4: Designing Vanlife Comfort – How Mike Planned His Dream Van Layout The build is officially underway — but before Mike’s new Sprinter gets its full Site Seven makeover, there’s a lot of behind-the-scenes work to tackle. In Episode 4 of Mike’s Van Build, Mike and the Site Seven team dig into the prep phase that sets the stage for a smooth, efficient build. From organizing the massive haul of parts to finalizing design details, it’s all about making sure nothing slows them down once the real work begins. Sorting, Staging, and Strategizing The first step? Inventory. With everything from flooring to electrical gear arriving from Mike’s Episode 2 shopping spree, the Site Seven shop is buzzing as they check in products, confirm specs, and stage components in the right work areas. This phase isn’t just about keeping things tidy — it’s about preventing delays. When every bolt, panel, and wire is exactly where it needs to be, the build flows faster and with fewer surprises. Fine-Tuning the Plan Mike, Justin, Hunter, and Jammer revisit the layout and systems to make sure every detail works in harmony. They tweak placements for storage, adjust wiring runs for efficiency, and confirm that the gear will deliver the performance Mike’s aiming for. A few big decisions get locked in here, including final flooring choice, insulation details, and how to maximize space without sacrificing comfort. Why Prep Matters It’s easy to think the magic happens once tools hit the van — but in reality, prep is where great builds are made. The organization, planning, and coordination happening now will pay off in speed, quality, and reliability down the road. Key Products Mentioned in Episode 4 Victron Energy Electrical Components Secondary Alternator + Wakespeed Regulator Mabru 12,000 BTU Air Conditioner Webasto Heater with Smart Temp Controller 3.0 Isotherm Slim 70 Fridge Thinsulate Van Insulation Tec Vanlife Sink Lonseal Flooring Ready to ride along? Check back weekly for new episodes and subscribe on YouTube or your favorite podcast app so you don’t miss what’s next. This van build — and this podcast — is just getting started. Share with a van-curious friend. And if you’ve got questions about your own build, reach out. We’re always happy to help. Want to explore more? Visit the Vanlife Outfitters Store to browse gear, learn from real-world builds, and get help choosing the right setup for your own vanlife adventure.
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Mike's Van Build Podcast: Ep. 3
Episode 3: Meeting the Dream Team at Site Seven After a forklift-fueled shopping spree in Episode 2, it’s time to hand over the goods — and the van — to the people who will bring Mike’s dream rig to life. In Episode 3 of Mike’s Van Build, Mike heads to Site Seven Campers in New Hampshire to meet founders Justin, Hunter, and Jammer, see the shop in action, and hand over his brand-new Sprinter for its full custom conversion. First Impressions of Site Seven From the moment Mike walks in, it’s clear this isn’t your average van conversion shop. The Site Seven team runs a clean, organized, and detail-focused operation — complete with dedicated stations for every stage of the build. Mike gets a firsthand look at their cabinetry craftsmanship, electrical setups, and how they manage complex projects without cutting corners. Justin, Hunter, and Jammer share their philosophy on van building: Function comes first — every design decision starts with how the van will be used. Quality over speed — they’d rather get it right than get it done fast. Collaboration is key — they involve clients throughout the process to avoid surprises. Mike’s Build Goals with Site Seven Mike lays out his vision: A rugged, four-season van ready for skiing, biking, and extended off-grid travel. Simplified systems that are easy to operate and maintain. Premium finishes that can handle real-world use without looking worn in a year. Justin, Hunter, and Jammer are all in — mapping out the build timeline, coordinating on the gear Mike’s already picked, and making small tweaks for efficiency and performance. Why This Episode Matters Whether you’re building with a pro shop or going the DIY route, Episode 3 is a goldmine for understanding what makes a great builder–client relationship. You’ll see why Mike trusts Site Seven with his van and what questions you should ask when choosing a builder yourself. Looking to hire a van conversion company for your own camper build? Check out our blog posts covering this topic: How to Find the Right Camper Van Builder (Without Losing Your Shirt or Your Sanity) 10+ Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Camper Van Builder Key Products Mentioned in Episode 3 Victron Energy Electrical Components Secondary Alternator + Wakespeed Regulator Mabru 12,000 BTU Air Conditioner Webasto Heater with Smart Temp Controller 3.0 Isotherm Slim 70 Fridge Thinsulate Van Insulation Tec Vanlife Sink Lonseal Flooring Ready to ride along? Check back weekly for new episodes and subscribe on YouTube or your favorite podcast app so you don’t miss what’s next. This van build — and this podcast — is just getting started. Share with a van-curious friend. And if you’ve got questions about your own build, reach out. We’re always happy to help. Want to explore more? Visit the Vanlife Outfitters Store to browse gear, learn from real-world builds, and get help choosing the right setup for your own vanlife adventure.
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How To Choose Solar Panels For Your Camper Van
This blog details the steps we suggest to pick solar panels for your rig. First step, play Tetris! How much space do you have available for solar panels on your roof? Start by determining if you will be mounting your solar panels to a roof rack, OEM roof rails with crossbars, or some other method. Mounting solar panels using Z brackets to crossbars is our go-to approach. Take away space for your vent fan(s), rooftop air conditioner, Starlink mount, recovery boards, rooftop deck, or other rooftop accessories. That remaining space (hopefully there is some left over!) can get filled with solar panels. Just like all of the tradeoffs inside your rig, you have to make tough decisions on what can fit on top too. Here’s the part that’s not as much fun as it sounds: play panel Tetris, looking at the dimensions of the solar panels while trying to maximize the usable space. Different vendors may have different dimensions for the same panel wattage. Roughly speaking, you will find that panels with lower wattage ratings are correspondingly smaller. Remember that you’re trying to maximize the rooftop area covered with panels, so selecting a smaller panel may allow you to fit more total wattage on your roof. Also keep in mind that mixing different panel sizes is not recommended, so you’re trying to maximize the number of identical panels to fill up your rooftop space. We find that solar arrays like this Newpowa 220 Watt panel with the long side dimensions of <57″ fit well to maximize the horizontal rooftop space on a van. Because of all those other must-have items, many customers may settle for a 400ish Watt array using two panels mounted horizontally. The good news is that the above steps are where all the tough decisions have to happen. The rest is “easy”. Let’s talk about panel voltage Solar panels are marketed in 12 V and 24 V options. One manufacturer’s 12 V nameplate does not mean that another manufacturer’s 12 V specifications are identical, and in fact those specs can vary greatly. 48 V options in solar panel sizes fitting vehicles are not readily available at this time. You picked a 12 V battery bank, you picked a 12 V inverter/charger, so naturally you pick a…well sorry to confuse you, but with solar panels the nameplate voltage doesn’t really matter. What does matter are a few details: The specifications of the solar panel, particularly the Voc, or the open-circuit voltage which is the maximum voltage that the panel will produce How the panel(s) are wired, in series or parallel. Wiring panels in series increases voltage, and wiring panels in parallel increases current. Hopefully a quick set of examples will clarify this confusion. Take a look at the Newpowa 200 Watt 12 V panel specs, and compare those specs to the Newpowa 200W 24 V panel. The 12 V panel has a Voc rating of 24.34 Volts, while the 24 V panel has a Voc rating of 48.68 Volts. You may be thinking those voltages are so high, how can either of these panels work with my 12 Volt electrical system!? The key is that the MPPT charge controller converts the PV (photovoltaic, i.e. solar) side voltage to your BATT (battery) side voltage. In fact, you want the PV side to be a high voltage to allow smaller cables, minimize voltage drop, and minimize losses. Can I use 24 V solar panels in a 12 V system? Yes. Using a 24 V panel like the Newpowa 200 W 24 V panel in a 12 V system allows you to either use panels in series for more efficiency or use panels in parallel for better partial shading performance (or both! two series panels with two more series panels in parallel). In a small solar array, even using only one 24 Volt panel can still work well for a 12 V system. Can I use 12 V solar panels in a 24 V system? Yes, with a caveat or two. In order for the MPPT charge controller to start a charging cycle (in other words, for the MPPT to become a useful device by turning on and supplying power to charge your batteries) the PV voltage must be higher than the BATT voltage. In Victron MPPT charge controllers, this voltage difference must be more than 5 Volts. Using two or more Newpowa 200 W 12 V panels in series meets that requirement in a 24 Volt system, as the PV voltage becomes much higher than the nominal battery voltage. Can I use 12 V or 24 V solar panels in a 48 V system? Yes, with the same caveats as above. Especially with 48 V systems that are typically paired with a secondary alternator kit to rapidly recharge while using a rooftop air conditioner, there may not be tons of space on the roof for solar. That’s just one of the tradeoffs when selecting a 48 V system. Solar arrays with three or more 12 V panels in series or two or more 24 V panels in series are typically required in 48 V systems. Picking a MPPT charge controller Victron MPPT charge controllers have two numbers on each device (for example, 100/50), and here’s the breakdown on those numbers: The first number is the maximum voltage that the controller can tolerate. Do not exceed the nameplate voltage rating or device damage may occur. Also note that the Voc rating discussed above is a nominal value, and the actual maximum voltage varies with temperature. Each solar panel manufacturer provides an additional rating for temperature coefficient for Voc (or another similar name & specification). The second number is the maximum current that the controller can source to your batteries. If you have more solar power available than the maximum current rating, no damage occurs but you don’t get to use all of the available power. Because our solar panels are seldom oriented perfectly at the sun, and you only get so many days of ideal solar panel per year, a slightly undersized MPPT charge controller may not be noticeable to your charging performance. These two MPPT numbers sound a little complicated, so use a cheat sheet. And by cheat sheet, we mean this great MPPT calculator from Victron. Here’s the best way to use the MPPT calculator: 1) Start typing your solar panel vendor and SKU in the Solar Panel field. If you’re in luck, your solar panel model is already in the list. If not, try 1a. 1a) Okay, your model didn’t show up. No problem! Find the Advanced Panel Settings slider and enable advanced mode. 1b) Act advanced. Seven panel specifications become available for editing, and for most manufacturers you need to copy & paste those seven specifications from their panel datasheet to the calculator. Pretty advanced, huh!? 2) Set your system Voltage to 12/24/48. This setting is your battery voltage, because we already told you panel voltage is pretty meh 3) Adjust the Series and Strings parameters to yield the number of panels you can fit. Series is obvious, increase this number if you need/want panels in series. Strings means parallel, increase this number for more Y-branch connectors and panels in parallel. It’s okay to play around with these settings too, adjust series or parallel values and see what the calculator tells you. Some panel configurations offer you a tradeoff, while others just require you to wire your solar array a specific way to make it work. 4) Bonus choice: set your location to see an estimate of how much daily yield your solar panel may provide. But you’re in a van and traveling the world, so maybe you care more if it’s going to rain tomorrow than what your yield would be if you parked in Albuquerque for a month? Now look on the right side of the calculator for the Result. Victron tells you the best MPPT charge controller for your array, and they show you lots of fun details why it’s the best controller too. Yay! For some customers, especially those on larger rigs like trailers, going with two MPPT charge controllers with two types of panels may be a useful choice to maximize area. Using two MPPT charge controllers is also a good choice for “ground deployed” solar panels that get temporarily set up in conjunction with fixed rooftop panels. And, you get to play Tetris and use the calculator twice. Fun times. Wrap up Maybe you’re the TL;DR type, but we hope you read through the details above. To wrap it up, we suggest the following steps to pick your solar panels: 1) Play Tetris with your panels to fit as many identical panels as possible on your roof 2) Use the MPPT calculator to select your charge controller That’s not hard! But if you run into any snags, our tech support team is always ready to help you understand more about our solar products and blogs. Contact us!
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Mike's Van Build Podcast: Ep. 2
Episode 2: Van Build Shopping Spree — Choosing Gear for the Sprinter Dream Rig What happens when you hand Mike Lyons the keys to the Vanlife Outfitters warehouse and tell him to pick whatever he wants for his new custom van? You get Episode 2 of Mike’s Van Build — a gear-lover’s dream tour through the must-have products going into Mike’s next rig. In this episode, Mike shares his top picks for creating a more rugged, off-grid-ready van than his last build, Willow. He’s learned a lot since then — especially about electrical systems — and it shows in his choices. Mike’s Wishlist: Key Upgrades More Durable Flooring – Industrial-grade vinyl that can take the abuse of skis, bikes, and gear without scratching like his old flooring. Powerful Electrical System – A massive power upgrade for running rooftop AC, refrigeration, lights, and more — for days off-grid. An Actual Air Conditioner – Roof unit for quiet, efficient cooling. Powerful Heater – Altitude-capable heating for mountain adventures. Bigger Fridge – Huge capacity with a slim profile to fit the new layout. Better Sink – A space-saving sink with a hidden faucet and butcher block cover. Mike also made some bold omissions: no built-in toilet this time, and no indoor shower — opting instead for more storage, an outdoor shower option, and camp facilities when needed. Lessons for Your Own Build Mike’s top advice? Know how you want to use your van before you shop. Weekend warrior or long-term off-grid? It changes everything. Do an energy audit to size your battery bank and charging systems for your needs. Don’t overlook finishes — the right flooring and cabinetry can handle real-world wear without constant repairs. Consider space trade-offs — every feature you add takes room from something else. Whether you’re deep in your van conversion or just daydreaming, this episode is packed with practical tips, product insights, and plenty of laughs from the forklift-friendly shopping spree. Key Products Mentioned in Episode 2 Lonseal “Loncoin” Flooring Victron Electrical Components Secondary Alternator + Wakespeed Regulator Mabru 12,000 12V Rooftop AC MaxxAir Fan Webasto Heater with Smart Temp Controller 3.0 Isotherm Slim 70 Fridge Thinsulate Van Insulation Tec Vanlife Sink Isotemp 15L Water Heater VanEssential Window Covers Starlink Roof Mount Ready to ride along?Check back weekly for new episodes and subscribe on YouTube or your favorite podcast app so you don’t miss what’s next. This van build — and this podcast — is just getting started. Share with a van-curious friend. And if you’ve got questions about your own build, reach out. We’re always happy to help. Want to explore more? Visit the Vanlife Outfitters Store to browse gear, learn from real-world builds, and get help choosing the right setup for your own vanlife adventure.
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Mike's Van Build Podcast: Ep. 1
Episode 1: From Eurovan to Dream Sprinter Rig What happens when you skip the research, buy a van on instinct, and hand it off to pros without asking for a single update? You get Mike Lyons — VLO’s own customer experience legend — kicking off our new Van Build Podcast with a story that’s equal parts wild, heartfelt, and deeply relatable for anyone eyeing the vanlife dream. In Episode 1, Mike walks us through his evolution from childhood VW camper trips to life in a Eurovan named Althea, to handing over the keys of a brand-new Sprinter (twice!) to professional builders. Along the way, he shares: Why his first custom van was “too nice” — and what he’s doing differently this time How becoming a VLO team member turned him into a true van gear nerd What he wishes he’d known before build #1 (hint: electrical systems matter!) Why how you’ll use your van should drive every decision The moment he stepped into a Site Seven build and said, “This is it.” Whether you’re a DIYer planning your own camper van conversion or dreaming about having a rig built for you, Mike’s story is packed with insight — and plenty of laughs. Why tune in? Because Mike doesn’t hold back. He shares the good, the bad, and the surprisingly funny moments that come with committing to the vanlife lifestyle — like realizing within 10 miles of pickup that his “dream” van might need changes. Or deciding not to build it himself, even as a carpenter, because skiing > sanding. Listen in if you’re wondering: Should I get a Sprinter, Transit, or ProMaster? What mistakes do first-time van buyers make? How do I choose a van builder I can actually trust? What’s it really like to live in a van full-time? https://youtu.be/55dNKezKOng Key Products Mentioned in Episode 1 Curious about the gear Mike talks about in the episode? Here are some of the standout items and categories that shaped his journey — from DIY beginnings to high-end custom builds. 12V Refrigerator – Essential for vanlife. Mike went from a cooler to something smarter. Electrical System Components – Batteries, solar, inverters, and more. Mike learned the hard way why this stuff matters. Air Conditioner – He didn’t have one in Willow — but it’s a must-have in his new van. Swivel Seats – A small feature that makes a big difference in usability and comfort. Water Tank System – Your water needs shape your build. Mike learned this as he leveled up. Ready to ride along? Check back weekly for new episodes and subscribe on YouTube or your favorite podcast app so you don’t miss what’s next. This van build — and this podcast — is just getting started. Share with a van-curious friend. And if you’ve got questions about your own build, reach out. We’re always happy to help. Want to explore more? Visit the Vanlife Outfitters Store to browse gear, learn from real-world builds, and get help choosing the right setup for your own vanlife adventure.
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Watt Hours Vs Amp Hours
Watt-Hours vs. Amp-Hours: What Every Van Builder Needs to Know If you’re building your own van’s electrical system, you’ve probably seen batteries advertised in amp-hours (Ah), while solar panels and appliances often list power in watts or watt-hours (Wh). Here’s the problem: mixing these up can lead to a seriously undersized system — and that’s how you end up with a dead fridge, no lights, and warm beer halfway through your road trip. By the end of this post, you’ll know exactly what these terms mean, how they’re connected, and how to use them to plan your off-grid electrical setup with confidence. Amp-Hours: The Current Over Time An amp-hour (Ah) is a measure of how much current a battery can deliver over time. Think of amps like the width of a water hose — the bigger the hose, the more water (current) can flow. Amp-hours tell you how much total flow you get over a certain period. Example: A 100Ah battery could, in theory, supply: 1 amp for 100 hours 5 amps for 20 hours 10 amps for 10 hours Key point: Amp-hours alone don’t tell the full story — you also need the voltage. Watt-Hours: The Real Energy Number A watt-hour (Wh) measures total energy — this is the true “fuel tank size” for your battery. Here’s the connection: Watts = Volts × Amps Watt-hours = Volts × Amp-hours So if you know a battery’s amp-hours and voltage, you can find watt-hours. Example: 100Ah at 12 volts = 1,200Wh 100Ah at 24 volts = 2,400Wh Why it matters: Two batteries can have the same amp-hour rating but store very different amounts of energy if their voltages are different. That’s why watt-hours are better for comparing systems. Example of our Victron LFP-12.8/300 packs nominal energy at 3840Wh Lithium Batteries can be found here: https://www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/category/camper-van-electrical-system-parts/batteries/ The industry is headed towards rating battery power by the nominal energy voltages. Instead of seeing 12, 24 or 48 volts the industry uses 12.8, 25.6 and 51.2 volts as the nominal values for watt hour calculations. Why Watt-Hours Matter More for Off-Grid Systems Amp-hours are useful when you’re staying in one voltage (most van systems are 12V), but watt-hours let you: Compare batteries of different voltages (12V, 24V, 48V). Calculate your daily power needs accurately. Match your battery capacity to your solar panel output and appliance usage. If you only look at amp-hours, you might undersize your system and run out of battery faster than you expect. How to Calculate Your Daily Power Needs Before buying batteries, figure out how much energy you use in a typical day. Here’s how: Step 1: List your appliances. Write down every device you’ll use: fridge, lights, fan, water pump, laptop, etc. Step 2: Find the wattage. Look for a sticker on the device, the manual, or search online. If it only lists amps, use: Watts = Volts × Amps Step 3: Multiply by hours used per day. This gives you watt-hours for that device. Step 4: Add everything up. That’s your daily total watt-hours. Example Daily Usage Table: Appliance Watts Hours/Day Daily Wh 12V fridge 50 8 400 LED lights 20 4 80 Vent fan 30 5 150 Air Conditioner 600 5 3000 Phone charging 10 2 20 Total — — 3650Wh Step 5: Add a safety margin. Cloudy days, inverter inefficiencies, and battery aging happen. Add 20–30% to be safe: 3650Wh × 1.25 ≈ 4,562.5 Wh/day needed. Converting Between Ah and Wh If you already know one measurement, here’s the cheat sheet: Ah = Wh ÷ Volts Wh = Ah × Volts Example: You need 4,562.5Wh per day. With a 12V system: Ah = 4,562.5 ÷ 12 ≈ 381Ah So you’d want at least a 460Ah lithium battery bank (lithium batteries can use most of their capacity, however manufactures only recommend 80% depth of discharge or less; lead-acid can only use about 50%). With your daily Wh usage calculated, remember you must have a charging source that is capable of replenishing the used energy each day too. This can be from solar, dcdc chargers, 2nd alternator, shore power or generator. Common Mistakes to Avoid Comparing Ah without checking voltage. A 100Ah 12V battery is not the same as a 100Ah 24V battery. Forgetting inverter losses. Converting 12V DC to 120V AC loses ~10–15% of energy. Only planning for sunny days. Always size for your worst-case scenario. Not tracking usage. A battery monitor like a Victron SmartShunt helps you see real-world consumption. Final Tips for DIY Van Builders Always start with watt-hours when planning your system. Use efficient appliances — LED lights, efficient DC fridges, and laptops instead of power-hungry desktops. If you can, test your system before hitting the road. Remember: you can always add more solar panels later, but battery capacity is harder to upgrade in a cramped van. Conclusion: Understanding watt-hours vs. amp-hours is one of the most important steps in building a reliable off-grid van electrical system. Once you get the hang of converting between them, you can size your battery bank, solar array, and charging system with confidence — and keep your lights on and fridge cold, no matter where the road takes you. If you need assistance putting together your electrical system, please call 754-444-8704 an agent at Vanlife Outfitters will provide their expertise in the perfect electrical system for your application.
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24V Camper Van Secondary Alternator Electrical System - More Options at 24 Volts!
Example 24V Camper Van Electrical System with Victron NG Batteries and Secondary Alternator Jump To Example Wiring Diagram Product Bundle For This System COMING SOON Options. Voltage. Capacity. Charging methods. Brand. Topology. Are there too many options for your camper van electrical system? If your answer is Yes, then we’re here and happy to help. Reach out to us, and our goal is to help you understand more about our camper van electrical system bundles (or any product in our store!). We pride ourselves on actually responding to your emails or picking up your phone call. We may even be working from our vans while we’re doing it! Whether your answer above was Yes or No, this blog post is a reminder that you do have options. In particular, we’ve added to our suite of free example wiring diagrams to include a complete 24 Volt electrical system based on Victron NG batteries that can be paired with a high-power secondary alternator for charging. 12 Volt, 24 Volt, or 48 Volt? Shore power, DC-DC (primary alternator), secondary alternator, and/or solar charging? Yep, you can do that. Let’s talk about this 24 Volt Victron NG-based electrical system Options does not have to mean Complication. In fact, this 24 Volt NG electrical system for your camper van has CAN ( “controller area network“) communication so that you don’t need to fiddle with every device configuration to get the system working well – all of the major system components “talk” to each other and communicate with the batteries for safe, reliable and fast charging or discharging. In Victron-speak, these devices are Smart. This bundle can include a ~3,600 Watt (150 Amp) Nations secondary alternator plus an additional 700 W (or more) of DC-DC charging from the primary alternator. That’s a lot of charging power while driving. Sure, adding a little bit of solar charging can help keep up with those house loads too. As far as discharging, a Multiplus “3000” is still probably in the sweet spot, capable of surging up to 5500 Watts of AC load. What’s different with this system? Not a lot really. In the example wiring diagram, you’ll see many similarities to our 12 Volt and 48 Volt secondary alternator system bundles. Of course we’ve carefully selected 24 Volt equipment in this case. And there’s still some 12 Volts running around as discussed in this blog. If you’re considering a 24 Volt system, we expect that you’re selecting as many 24 Volt appliances as possible, but it’s hard to completely remove 12 Volts. Air conditioner, refrigerator, air heater, lighting, pumps,… the list goes on, and yep, you can do that at 24 Volts. The number of 24 Volt loads may turn out to be one of the more annoying issues to handle in this system. And it’s not that bad. You can easily expand the 24 Volt distribution with a second Lynx Distributor, but the distributor uses MEGA fuses that only go down to 40 Amps. The example wiring diagram shows a Littelfuse MIDI Fuse Holder that can provide an extra 2 or 3 loads with MIDI fuses that go down to 30 Amps. Rather than inline fuses for the multitude of smaller load branches at 24 Volts, it may make sense to use a DC fuse block wired from the Lynx Distributor. Many sizes of DC fuse blocks are offered by Blue Sea, including this one with six circuits. The primary non-Smart device shown in this system is the venerable Orion 24/12-70 DC-DC converter to supply that aforementioned 12 Volts. It’s possible to use the newer Smart Orion XS 1400 as the 24/12 converter instead. Using the XS 1400 gives you more visibility into your 12 V load consumption, and it provides the voltage conversion at a higher efficiency (maximum of 98.5% efficient versus 92%). Efficiency is the name of the game for a 24 Volt system, so for some customers the XS 1400 as the 24/12 converter can make sense. In the example wiring diagram, you’ll also find a small reminder that the Lynx Smart BMS NG provides an Allow To Discharge (ATD) signal. ATD can be used to stop devices from discharging the batteries, extending the “smart” operation of your system and protecting your batteries. We show a simple wiring example where the Orion 24/12-70 DC-DC converter is enabled/disabled by ATD, and that technique can be expanded using a Smart BatteryProtect. Here’s a hypothetical use for a Smart BatteryProtect: maybe you don’t want your high-power 24 Volt air conditioner to run your batteries flat overnight while you’re boondocking. Waking up with no power available is so much fun! How many times have I said System in this blog? Not enough, apparently. The key part of safe, reliable and fast charging is that your electrical components have been carefully selected and proven to be interoperable. Particularly in the case of the Nations secondary alternator with Wakespeed WS500 Pro regulator as a charging option, your electrical system should include batteries officially supported by Wakespeed to work correctly and safely. The Victron NG BMS & batteries, Wakespeed regulator, and Cerbo running DVCC (along with all those other Smart devices) perform as a system that has been tested, can be supported, and is proven to operate to meet your camper van’s demands. Wiring diagram and bundle Click here for the 24 Volt electrical system with secondary alternator kit free example wiring diagram. This system can be purchased through our build your own bundle page. You’ll get our best bundle pricing and fast & free shipping, and of course you’ll get the electrical system best tailored to the needs of your van. If you have questions about this 24 Volt camper van electrical system, reach out to us and someone from our tech support team will be happy to assist you. Download Wiring Diagram PDF – 24V Electrical System Victron NG Batteries and Secondary Alternator Summary: 24V Camper Van Electrical System with Secondary Alternator Kit at a Glance A 24 Volt camper van electrical system with a secondary alternator is one of the most reliable ways to power high-demand, off-grid living. By reducing current and wire size, 24 Volt systems improve efficiency and make it easier to run heavy loads like air conditioning and refrigerators. Many DIY camper van builders still rely on 12 Volts for lights, fans, and pumps, but adding a 24 Volt alternator setup gives you faster charging and greater flexibility. If you’re planning a complete camper van electrical system, consider whether 24 Volt is the right balance of simplicity, performance, and long-term reliability. FAQ: 24V Camper Van Electrical Systems Is 24V better than 12V for a camper van electrical system? A 24 Volt camper van electrical system is more efficient for high-power setups. Because the voltage is higher, the current is lower — which means smaller wires, less energy loss, and better efficiency. A 12 Volt system is often enough for simple camper van electrical systems, but if you want to run appliances like air conditioning or refrigerators off-grid, 24 Volts is usually the smarter choice. Do I need a secondary alternator for my camper van electrical system? Not every van needs one. A secondary alternator kit is ideal if you drive or idle often and want reliable, high-output charging for a large battery bank. For smaller or simpler camper van electrical systems, a DC-DC charger connected to your stock alternator may be enough. In fact, both a secondary alternator and a DC-DC charger can be combined for massive charging power! Can I mix 12V and 24V in the same camper van electrical system? Yes — many builders do. A common setup is to use 24 Volts for high-draw loads (like heavy appliances such as air conditioners and refrigerators) and keep a small 12 Volt distribution panel for lights, fans, and pumps. This adds a little bit of complexity, but it’s a practical solution when you want the efficiency of 24 Volt and the necessity of 12 Volts. How much does a complete camper van electrical system cost? Costs vary depending on power needs. A simple setup might run $1,500–$3,000. A complete camper van electrical system with a large lithium battery bank, secondary alternator kit, and a 3,000W inverter/charger can cost $10k+.
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Why I Love Vanlife - How it's the Best Way to Travel
Vanlife is the best way to travel. Granted, I’m perhaps the most biased person on the planet to blog on this topic, but I’m all-in on vanlife! With that out of the way, keep in mind that I’m still all-in after owning 7 camper vans ranging from a 1971 VW Westfalia to 4x DIY builds, over the course of the last 31 years which is my entire adult life! In this blog post I’ll give you some of the reasons why. Agility = Options The agility of a camper van is a game-changer compared to staying at hotels or even a larger RV. RVs, with their bulky size, limit where you can go… narrow mountain roads, tight parking lots, and urban areas are often off-limits. Compare that to a camper van which is typically the same size as a large SUV or truck. This means you don’t have to worry about where you’re going to go. With an RV you’d better consider how you’re going to park or turn around. With a van, you navigate the way you’re used to in a car. On the camping side of things camper vans can overnight just about anywhere it’s allowed – from trailheads to urban parking lots to hidden gems you can find on apps like iOverlander. Obviously, the size of a full-size RV makes this considerably harder. per van, being closer in size to a regular vehicle, opens up a world of options. This frees up time in your travel days to explore instead of trying to find camping sites and typically opens up options closer to where you want to be. Hotels Suck In general and the friction of staying in hotels is more apparent after you experience the agility detailed above. In addition to all that you have to pack stuff in and out of the room. In a van everything you’re used to having is where you left it! Compare that to the logistical headaches you face when staying in hotels. You forgot to pack some things, you leave others in your car or Uber and, ultimately, you forget stuff in the room when you check out. Then there’s the fact that “hotel life” revolves around the hotel’s schedule instead of yours – from check in time to when they wake you up in the morning with their vacuums to when the “food product they describe as breakfast” is available in the lobby. You also have to go through all the rigamarole and cost to book the room – normally well in advance. Then there is the general comfort which is generally lacking. Even when the bed is comfortable and the room is pretty nice, everything is different for every stay in every town. Just imagine having your very own bedroom and bathroom following you around wherever you go and then waking up and being able to make your own morning beverage and a proper breakfast. So. Much. Better. Always Ready To Roll Speaking of packing and logistics, one of the things I love about van travel is that most of the stuff you want is already in the van, ready to roll. I always say that it takes the same amount of time to prepare for a two-day trip as it does for a two-month trip. I keep my van stocked so that all I need to do is add some food and some clothes to hit the road. Self-Sufficiency & Types of Camper Vans Camper vans, particularly the “adventure van” types, really shine when it comes to self-sufficiency and being off grid (a.k.a: boondocking). What do I mean by “adventure type”? The way I think about camper vans is that they fall into two broad categories: what the industry calls “Class-B RVs” or the so-called “adventure vans”. Class-B RVs are similar to their larger RV cousins in the way they’re mass-produced by companies like Winnebago and Thor and share many of the systems of a typical RV. Compared to adventure vans, the B’s tend to have smaller water tanks and primitive electrical systems, etc. So, the first big difference is their ability to be off-grid for longer periods of time. Adventure vans also tend to offer a more rugged style and durable surfaces that can stand up to the grit of a more adventurous lifestyle as well as spaces for “gear” like bikes which is often in the form of what people refer to as a “garage” under the sleeping area normally near the rear cargo doors. So, while all camper vans are agile, “adventure vans” are even more so! To illustrate this, following images compare the style and systems of a Thor Scope (Class-B, on the left side of photos) and a Remote Vans “Friday” series (adventure van, on the right side of photos). You can click on the images to make them bigger. Ultimately, style is subjective but if you look a the systems they are objectively better. The Thor has a 1000 watt inverter and the 200 watts of solar for charging which is the only way to charge without turning on your generator or plugging into shore power. I found that it only has 18 gallons of fresh water on board in a Google search. Meanwhile, the Remote Vans has a state-of-the art Lithionics electrical system with a 3000 watt inverter and a secondary alternator that can charge the batteries at 100 amps at 48V (over 5000 watts) anytime you’re driving. It also has twice as much fresh water capacity at 32 gallons! Also notable, adventure vans are more expensive! This is one of the many reasons most of our customers are making their own adventure-style vans which we make much easier with our blog, videos and extensive catalog of the very best, road-tested camper van build products. But, you can also hire a van builder in your area or purchase one that is manufactured by a company like Remote Vans with the ability to finance it. A well-built van is ready to travel just about anywhere without the need for “hookups” (water or electrical connections, etc.). You can drive it where you want to be and live comfortably using its gasoline heater, energy-efficient DC air conditioner, large water supply and nearly limitless electrical power and luxurious hot water. So, literally by driving, you’re generating electricity and hot water. At the end of a travel day, instead of needing a campground or RV park with hookups for life-support, you can overnight anywhere it makes sense – from a Walmart parking lot to a remote campsite – all you need is fuel (gas or diesel) and a place you want to drive. I’m about a week into a van adventure and I haven’t needed hookups at all. I will eventually need to refill my water tank and the “cassette” to my toilet (as fun and glamorous as you’re imagining) but I can normally find ways to do that for free (or low cost) at rest stops or other similar places. Meanwhile, I’ve been running my AC when it’s hot, heater when it’s cool, Starlink internet continuously and enjoying “me espresso” every morning. The only “inputs” have been lots of gasoline and perhaps some donuts. Honestly, I think most people really want an adventure van but don’t know about this distinction when they start shopping for their rig. Many of our customers have ended up with a B-van only to rip out its disabled electrical system and replace it with a truly capable one from Victron. Fuel Efficiency Is Way Better This one is so obvious but worth mentioning… Fuel efficiency is one of a camper van’s biggest wins over an RV. While RVs guzzle gas with their massive engines and size – sometimes getting as low as 6-10 miles per gallon. Meanwhile a camper van sips fuel more like a big car, often averaging 15-20 MPG depending on the model and fuel type (gasoline or diesel). This not only saves money at the pump but also reduces the environmental footprint of your travels and how often you’re stopping for fuel. Easy to Store When Not Using When the trip’s over, a camper van is a breeze to store compared to an RV. An RV requires a dedicated parking spot, often at a premium cost, or a storage facility with monthly fees. A van can often slide into your garage, driveway, or even a regular parking space. Its compact size means you’re not wrestling with logistics or shelling out extra cash when it’s not in use. Also in some cases municipal or HOA restrictions against RVs don’t apply to camper vans. Community This one is less intuitive but I would say that one of the best things about vanlife is the community! The camper van lifestyle draws a diverse group of like-minded people who value adventure, freedom and friendship. I’ve talked with so many people who had dozens of different reasons to get into vanlife – from full-time travel to working remotely – but one of the common threads is that once they started, what has kept them going – especially during difficult moments – is the awesome community. You’ll meet folks on the road, at campsites and, notably at community-focused vanlife gatherings spread around the country such as Peace Love & Vans. Check out our event calendar for ideas on other gatherings. Despite the wide range of people and reasons for being on the road, we all have one important thing in common – we’re crazy (or smart) enough to travel and live in a tiny house on wheels. Vanlifers share a bond over the thrill of the open road and a mutual appreciation for experiences over stuff. It’s a true community that you’ll probably find welcoming as well as inspiring. Below is a fun photo from the 2025 Peace Love & Vans at the moment someone is winning a raffle prize 🙂 Forced Minimalism Living in a camper van forces you into a practical form of minimalism in the best way possible. With extremely limited space, you must really think about what’s essential and what’s clutter. Which clothes, tools, cookware and other essentials do you absolutely need? Are there things you can pack that do double duty? And, when you go to the grocery store or farmer’s market, you’ll typically only be buying for a day or two. Best of all, once you’ve gone through this process and lived with the bare essentials most people tend to carry that forward to their stationary life. It’s liberating to discover how much joy fits into such a small footprint. Get Out! The cozy-but-minimal quarters of a camper van naturally push you outdoors. One common question people ask about my van is something along the lines of “this is really cool but don’t you feel cooped up?” My answer is no! The van has all the necessary comforts like a bed, galley, bathroom, etc. but I don’t want to drive around the country or the world to be inside ANY type of structure. The whole point of travel and or being in nature is to be OUT there – on the trail, at the beach, in the city, etc. A big living space is actually something of a temptation to stay inside rather than getting out there. It’s a feature, not a bug 🙂 Can Use a Van as a Daily Driver A camper van doubles as a daily driver, which is a huge perk over an RV. RVs are too big for errands or commutes, racking up extra costs for storage, insurance, and often a second vehicle. With a van, you can commute, get the groceries just as easily as any other car. What Are You Waiting For? That wraps it up! What am I missing? Are there even more benefits to traveling in a van? If so, let us know (orders@vanlifeoutfitters.com). If you haven’t taken the plunge yet, what are you waiting for? As you know, life is short, and if you’ve read this far, you are probably pretty interested in unique blend of novelty, challenge and comfort that vanlife offers, so you might as well try! I would recommend renting (or borrowing) a van and seeing what you think. Also, try to find a vanlife event near you so you can experience the community as well. See you out there! “You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.” – Mae West
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Current vs. Capacity: Understanding Amps and Amp-Hours in Your Van Electrical System
Amps vs Amp-hours. Current vs capacity. A classic rivalry! No. Wait. How can we pit these two important parameters against each other when they’re complementary? This blog revisits some important subtopics on sizing your electrical system, with a focus on how much current (Amperes, or Amps) and storage capacity (Amp-hours, or Ah) your system may need. Why is there a 250 Amp fuse on my 300 Ah battery? You’re selling a 460 Ah battery, so do I need more than one battery in my system? What’s with all the 4/0 cables, can’t I use smaller ones? These are some common questions we receive about our example wiring diagrams. Let’s try to clarify current and storage capacity using a few examples with our old friend the free example load calculation Google Sheet. Current Current is the measure of the flow of electricity through a conductor. At a high level, current flowing from your batteries provides the power (which is current times the battery voltage) needed by your loads to operate. There are a few important considerations in determining your system’s current needs (or is that need for current? bad pun). First, what is the maximum current needed by your loads at any given time? This number is likely much higher than the average load consumption that you analyzed. Looking at Example 1 in the load calculation sheet, let’s consider that you come back to your van at the end of the day after a nice, long hike. You turn on the air conditioner (at max for a while to cool things down), turn on some lights, notice that your refrigerator is running to keep things cold, and fill a pot with water to start boiling on the induction cooktop. Did you look at your battery monitor and realize that you’re using around 250 Amps of current (roughly 3000 Watts on your 12 Volt system) for a little while? Perhaps you made a cup of coffee or threw something in the microwave too, and you peaked at nearly 400 Amps of current! This usage is actually typical, and we should plan for it. Because our vans are our homes, no one wants the power to go out while enjoying our vans. Second, the maximum load current above leads to another consideration of your system’s need for current: the battery specifications. As an example looking at our SOK 314 Ah batteries, the manufacturer recommends a continuous current of 150 Amps charging and 200 Amps discharging. Exceeding these continuous values can degrade your batteries’ long term performance. Given the significant investment in your batteries, this is one of the reasons we suggest multiple batteries in parallel when designing a system. Each additional battery reduces the discharging demand from the other batteries, maximizing short-term and long-term battery performance. Stated differently, batteries in parallel increases the current capability of your system. In this example with SOK 314 Ah batteries, two batteries safely supports 400 Amps continuous discharging as compared to 200 Amps from a single battery. As a result of considering current, we typically recommend three (but at least two) batteries in the scenario above. Capacity Capacity is a little more straightforward to consider, and capacity is well-covered in our sizing your electrical system blog. Capacity is how long can your system sustain your current consumption (Amps multiplied by time) and that’s typically best to consider using the average consumption calculations laid out in our free example load calculation Google Sheet. Capacity is additive, so each battery adds to the total available capacity in your system. Again returning to Example 1, now let’s consider that you plan to boondock for four nights. No shore power. No driving. While solar is great when you have it, you decide how certain you are to predict sunny skies during the day, and that assumes that you don’t park in the shade anyways. (Spoiler alert, on my trips it rains anyhow!) If you maintain the average consumption of around 250 Ah a day for four nights, you’ll want more than four times that capacity in your battery bank. Don’t forget another important battery specification, the manufacturer’s recommended depth of discharge, which is typically 80% to maintain good performance over the life of your battery. In our capacity example, we would recommend at least four SOK 314 Ah batteries (or at least three Epoch 460 Ah batteries) to meet your boondocking goals. Wrap-up Also necessary in your considerations is design margin, or some additional comfort zone if your usage predictions are off. Maybe you use the van differently than you projected, or what if you decide to add another gadget to better enjoy your van? You don’t want to plan your system right at the edge of manufacturer specifications. On top of that, there’s Physics to deal with…current increases as battery voltage decreases (which is during discharging), some loads have inrush or starting currents even higher than typical consumption, and efficiency decreases with increased heat. Design margin, as well manufacturer recommendations, are additional reasons that multiple, paralleled batteries are best suited for most van applications to address both current and capacity. Let’s wrap up by revisiting the three common questions above with our Amps vs Amp-hours knowledge. Why is there a 250 Amp fuse on my 300 Ah battery? We’re back to Amps vs Amp-hours confusion, aren’t we? Your maximum load calculations, spread across multiple parallel batteries, help determine the expected maximum current from each battery. Fuses are specified to protect the cables, and the cables are specified for the maximum expected current plus margin. It’s perfectly normal for a 300 Ah battery (for example, with specifications for 200 A continuous and 400 A peak current discharging) to be fused at 250 A. You’re selling a 460 Ah battery, so do I need more than one battery in my system? Maybe you’re building out a minimalist van, and your load calculations suggest some combination of low current or low duration meets your needs. Or maybe you’re always plugged in to shore power. In those cases, yes one battery may be perfect. For many of our customers, off-grid capabilities combined with daily van needs like cooking or cooling will lead to different conclusions. That’s why our example diagrams and recommendations typically reflect systems with 2-4 batteries in parallel. What’s with all the 4/0 cables, can’t I use smaller ones? This topic is related to current and fuse selection, but it comes up often enough to touch on in this blog. As you can see on this handy wire gauge calculator, maximum current is only one of the factors in properly designing your cables. You can use smaller diameter cables, if your fusing and current consumption is reduced, among other things. One way to reduce large diameter cables is using multiple batteries in parallel such that each battery contributes less current (through appropriately reduced fuse sizes). Another way to reduce cabling size is to increase system voltage (to 48 Volt or 24 Volt). Quadrupling the voltage reduces current by a factor of four, and the lower current reduces cable losses…because Physics. Reducing current allows significantly smaller cables to be specified (again, with appropriately reduced fuse sizes). Current? Or capacity? With modern advances in battery technology, vanlifers are the winners on both counts!
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