Blog
Vanlife Roadmap Podcast: Ep. 7
20 Vans, One Driveway: Tim Jowers on building weekend warrior vans with no shop and no advertising About Tim Tim Jowers is a self-taught van builder based in Texas who has completed 20 custom builds out of his home driveway since December 2021. A former distribution manager turned craftsman, Tim works alongside his son Ryan, whose welding and artistic background anchors the creative side of every build. Follow Tim’s work on Instagram. What you’ll hear in this episode Why Tim quit a 25-year warehouse management career in December 2021 and bought a ProMaster the same week — and what his son Ryan said when he suggested they build vans The solo 5,000-mile road trip Tim took to proof-test his first build: up to Mt. Bachelor for skiing, down through California, across to the Grand Canyon, and back home Why Tim and Ryan skip showers on every single build — and the specific cascade of problems (condensation, drainage, freezing, underslung tanks) that decision avoids Why cabinet work is the hardest part of any build — nothing in a van is square, which means scribing, templating, and multiple in-out-in fitting cycles on every upper cabinet Tim’s rattle prevention system: glue and screw every joint you can, put fabric between any wood-to-metal contact point, and drive the van after every major phase to find squeaks before they’re covered up The advice Tim gives every first-time builder before they spend a dollar: rent or borrow a van, spend a weekend in it, and find out what you actually need versus what you thought you needed Key takeaways Cabinets are where builds get hard. Floors, ceilings, and wall panels are relatively straightforward. Cabinets are not — a van is never square, which means every upper cabinet requires scribing to the roof curve and multiple fitting cycles before it’s right. The shower math doesn’t add up. An interior shower triggers hot water requirements, underslung gray tanks, drainage-grade parking, and condensation risk. Tim skips it on every build because the tradeoffs compound — and most customers agree after he walks them through it. Off-grid AC is a $5,000 decision, minimum. If you’re building a van for $20k and want off-grid air conditioning, you’ve just committed 25% of your budget to one system — before accounting for the larger battery bank and added weight. Rent before you build. Tim’s standard advice to every potential customer: find a van to borrow or rent, spend a weekend in it, and see which features you thought you needed actually matter. The first thing most people drop? The shower. Glue and screw, then drive. Tim’s rattle prevention method: glue and screw every joint possible, put fabric between any wood-to-metal contact, and drive the van after every major phase so you can find squeaks before they’re buried under panels. Resources + links Electrical Systems collection — batteries, inverters, solar, and monitoring for your van build Batteries & BMS — lithium options and battery management systems Sizing Your Electrical System — load calculations and system design guide Van Build Step-by-Step Guide — how to sequence a build the right way Listen to the full conversation with Tim on YouTube, Spotify, or Apple Podcasts. If you’re working through a build decision, reach out to our team — we’re always happy to help.
Learn more
Vanlife Roadmap Podcast: Ep. 6
What Grant from FreedomVanGo Learned Building Vans for Real Use A van build can look great online and still be wrong for the way you actually travel. That is one of the clearest lessons from this episode of Vanlife Roadmap. Grant from FreedomVanGo has built vans, used vans, refined vans, and helped customers think through what belongs in their own builds. His perspective is practical because it comes from doing the work, making mistakes, and changing his mind after actual travel. Grant’s path into vans was not a straight line. He grew up in Myrtle Beach, worked odd jobs, got into cars and motors early, served as a C-130 engine mechanic in the Air Force, spent time in Japan and Saudi Arabia, built a Subaru-focused parts business, and eventually moved from camping setups into a Sprinter. Along the way, the same pattern kept showing up – he liked figuring things out, building things, and sharing what he learned. That background matters because this conversation is not really about one perfect van layout. It is about how experience changes your standards. Grant’s first van worked, but it also taught him what he would not do again. The first van worked – but not for him Grant is unusually direct about his early van build. He says he “did everything wrong in the end,” even though it felt right at the time. Like many first-time builders, he pulled design cues from Instagram, YouTube, and other vans that looked good. The result was not a failure. The van worked well enough. But after 20 or 30 nights in it, he started to see the difference between something that functions and something that actually fits the way you live. That distinction is useful for any DIY van builder. For example, Grant used shiplap in the first van. It looked great. However, changes in temperature and humidity caused squeaks and rattles. He also put the fridge on the driver’s side wall, then realized how inconvenient that was when using the van near the beach. Every time he wanted something from the fridge, he had to climb into the van and track sand inside. That experience changed how he builds now. He prefers the fridge on the passenger side, near the slider, so it can be reached from inside or outside. The lesson is not that one fridge location is universally right. Grant is careful to say the driver-side fridge was bad for him. The bigger point is that small layout decisions become very obvious once you use the van in real places. A floor plan is not just a drawing. It is how you move, cook, sleep, grab a drink, clean up, and get in and out all day. Rent before you build One of Grant’s strongest recommendations is simple. Before spending serious money on a van build, rent vans and see what works for you. That advice comes directly from his own experience. In his first build, he chose things because they looked good or seemed like the right idea at the time. Now, when customers are preparing for a major build, he encourages them to spend money up front renting different vans so they can learn what they like before committing to a full build. That may feel like an extra expense, but it can prevent much bigger mistakes. A van build can easily become an exercise in imagined use. You think you need a certain cabinet, bed size, shower, fridge, or finish because it looks right in someone else’s setup. Then you spend real nights in the van and realize your habits are different. Grant gives a simple example with bed size. Some people told him he did not need a queen bed. But with two people and a dog, he quickly learned that a smaller bed did not work for him. Again, the point is not that every van needs a queen bed. The point is that your real use should decide what will work best for you. Spending time in rental vans will reveal things a spreadsheet cannot. For a broader planning framework, VLO’s guide on how to build a camper van without getting stuck walks through why purpose should come before tools, layouts, or shopping. Build around how you actually use the van Grant’s current layout philosophy was shaped by use, not theory. After the first van, he moved toward a more adaptable setup with Adventure Wagon and L-track because it allowed things to be mounted and changed more easily. That flexibility mattered because it gave him room to adjust the van as his needs became clearer. He also explains why he generally avoided indoor showers for a long time. His thinking was practical. If you are traveling in a city, there are often gym showers or other options. If you are in the middle of nowhere, an outdoor shower can work, even in cold conditions, if you have hot water and the van’s heat running. That may not be the right choice for every builder, and Grant says FreedomVanGo has more recently started doing indoor showers in some vans. But the reasoning is useful. A shower is not just a feature. It is space, plumbing, cost, weight, complexity, and maintenance. If you will truly use it, it may be worth it. If not, it may be taking over space that could serve you better in another way. This is where Grant’s advice lines up with a bigger Vanlife Roadmap theme. Good van decisions are rarely about copying someone else’s build. They are about understanding what kind of travel you are actually trying to support. Some cuts do not give you a second chance When Grant talks about practical build advice, one line stands out. “Measure 48 times before you make that first cut.” That came from experience. He tells a story about installing bunk windows early on and realizing after the cut that one measurement was about an inch off. The window still worked, but it was higher than he wanted. The mistake was fixable enough, but it left a mark. For DIY builders, that is a useful reminder. Some parts of a van build are forgiving. Others are not. Cutting holes for windows, fans, or other exterior components deserves extra patience because the cost of being wrong is high. This is also a good example of why van building can be both empowering and stressful. You can learn a lot and do more than you think, but confidence should not replace careful prep. A van is not a blank canvas in the abstract. It is a vehicle, and some decisions become permanent very quickly. Electrical is different Grant is encouraging about DIY work, but he draws a harder line around electrical systems. He sees electrical as one of the hardest parts of a van build because there is so much information, and much of it comes with bias. Some people recommend one battery brand, others recommend another. Some people push full Victron systems, while others point builders toward simpler power kits. In Grant’s view, the challenge is not just finding information. It is understanding the tradeoffs behind each option. His advice is not to skip the research. He says builders should put real time into learning. But if someone spends dozens of hours trying to understand electrical and still does not feel comfortable, he recommends paying someone. The reason is straightforward. Bad electrical work can do more than annoy you. It can damage the van or create a real fire risk. Grant says he has seen fires in vans from DIY electrical work done incorrectly. That does not mean every builder needs the most expensive system. It means the electrical system should match the builder’s needs, and the installation should be done safely. A simpler system that is understood and installed correctly is better than a complicated one chosen because it looked impressive online. VLO’s camper van electrical diagrams and camper van electrical planning resources are good next steps for builders trying to compare system types before buying components. You do not need all the fancy stuff to start Near the end of the conversation, Grant gives one of the most useful pieces of advice for future vanlifers. Do not start with a full build. Put a mattress in the back, add a fridge or cooler, and go use the van. That advice cuts through a lot of noise. The internet can make it seem like vanlife requires a long list of expensive parts before you are allowed to begin. Grant pushes back on that. He points out that people were having great experiences decades ago with much simpler vans. His point is not that nice parts are bad. FreedomVanGo builds vans, sells parts, and works with people who want more capable setups. But he is clear that much of what people see in modern vanlife is a luxury, not a requirement. A heater, air conditioner, electrical system, roof rack, suspension upgrade, super singles, shower, and cabinetry may all be useful in the right situation. But “useful” is not the same as “necessary.” Grant’s advice is to separate what you want from what you truly need, then make the choice honestly. If you want the upgrade, that is fine. Just do not convince yourself it is required before you have tested how you actually travel. When you are ready for a complete system, Vanlife Outfitter’s build-your-own electrical system bundle can help organize the choices – and reach out to our support team if you want to talk through your plans and ensure you get what you need. Saying no can be part of doing better work Grant also talks about FreedomVanGo as a business, and one theme connects directly back to van building itself – focus matters. He says they say no to far more projects than they say yes to. That may sound strange for a business, but his reasoning is practical. If a shop is not good at something, or if the work is not a fit for how they build, taking the project can be unfair to the customer. Figuring everything out on a customer’s van takes time, and customers are paying for that time. That mindset shaped the way FreedomVanGo grew. Grant describes starting in a two-car garage, helping local people, installing fans and electrical packages, and eventually moving into a warehouse. The growth was real, but it was not framed as growth for its own sake. He talks more about focus, fit, and not trying to become everything to everyone. For DIY builders, the same principle applies. A good build is not a pile of good ideas. It is a set of choices that work together – and sometimes the smartest decision is leaving something out. The bigger lesson for DIY builders Grant’s story comes back to a simple idea: Use the van before you overbuild it. Learn what matters to you. Be careful with permanent decisions. Take electrical seriously. Be honest about the difference between what you need and what you want. A good camper van build does not have to be the most impressive version of someone else’s layout. It has to support the way you actually travel. Related resources from Vanlife Outfitters Vanlife Roadmap podcast – More conversations about real van build decisions How to Build a Camper Van Without Getting Stuck – Start with purpose before layouts and shopping Camper Van Electrical Planning – Plan power around how you actually use the van Free Camper Van Electrical Diagrams – Example systems for DIY van builders
Learn more
Ford Transit CCP1, CCP2, and Dual Alternator Guide for Camper Vans
If you’re building a Ford Transit camper van, one of the more useful Ford-specific features to understand is the Transit Customer Connection Points. Ford provides an easy method to connect a house electrical system to the vehicle battery system, and in Ford-speak that is a Customer Connection Point, or CCP. The CCPs are one of the reasons the Transit can be a very builder-friendly van for camper conversions. They provide a straightforward way to connect DC-DC chargers to your Transit, but the details matter. Older vans, newer vans, single battery vans, two vehicle battery vans, and vans with the two alternators are not all the same. This post is not trying to duplicate Ford’s order option documentation, and it is definitely not a substitute for reading the Body & Equipment Mounting Manual, or BEMM, for your model year. But if you’re trying to understand Transit CCP1, CCP2, and the Dual Alternator option at a practical level, here is a quick take. What Are Ford Transit Customer Connection Points? Ford provides an easy method to connect a house electrical system to the vehicle battery system, and in Ford-speak that is a Customer Connection Point. The CCP(s) are located on the outside of the driver’s seat pedestal facing the door. The CCP(s) are an ideal way to connect DC-DC chargers to your Transit. Older or single battery vans may have a single 60 Amp CCP1, while newer models with the Dual AGM Batteries or Auxiliary Fuse Panel options have CCP1 as well as a 175 Amp CCP2. The CCPs are fused, and accessing those fuses is pretty annoying since they are located in the pedestal underneath the driver’s seat. Because you have to remove the seat to access the pedestal, we highly recommend designing your electrical usage of the CCPs lower than those fuse values. That is one of the practical points that matters most. Yes, the fuse values set an upper ceiling. No, that does not mean you should design your system right at those limits. CCP1 vs CCP2 CCP1 is always-on, and CCP2 is controlled intelligently on and off by the van’s computer. CCP2 may be load shed during periods of heavy alternator derating due to heat. CCP2 is not always on, and CCP2 typically remains on for some duration after the engine is turned off. If you’re comparing CCP1 and CCP2 for a camper van electrical build, the short version is that CCP1 is simpler and lower-capacity, while CCP2 is the more useful interface for higher-power charging setups when the van is equipped for it. In practical terms, CCP1 may be enough for a more modest electrical build. CCP2 is where things get more interesting if you want more charging power from the alternator while driving or idling. Which Transit Vans Have CCP1 and CCP2? Older or single battery vans may have only CCP1. Newer models with the Dual AGM Batteries or Auxiliary Fuse Panel options have CCP1 as well as CCP2. We think that the Dual AGM Batteries option is important for more than one reason, but one of the big ones is that it provides the CCP2 capability that allows a higher-current interface for DC-DC chargers. Older Transits with specific options may even have CCP3, where all three CCPs are fused at 60 Amps. That means if you’re shopping for a Transit specifically with camper van electrical in mind, it is worth paying attention to the order options and what Customer Connection Points are present - not just whether it has nice lifestyle features like swivel seats or an extended range gas tank. Using DC-DC Chargers with a Ford Transit A Victron Energy Orion XS 50 (or XS 1400 for 24 Volt systems) is a great fit for CCP1 or CCP2. Using one of these chargers provides 50 Amps of charging power from your alternator to your house system. If you have CCP2 without the Dual Alternator option, then you have more alternator capacity for even higher charging power. Ford alternator sizing has increased over the years, and the 250 Amp alternator is standard in the 2020+ models. Using that 250 Amp alternator as an example, roughly 100 Amps of charging power while driving (less at idle) is available for your house battery bank. Manufacturers recommend using no more than 50% of the rated alternator value, and you need to reserve power for the vehicle’s own use, so 100 Amps from a 250 Amp alternator is a reasonable value. Two Orion XS DC-DC chargers in parallel or one Sterling 120 Amp DC-DC battery charger are a great fit for CCP2. This is one place where the Transit can support a pretty capable camper van electrical setup without getting too exotic. If your power needs are moderate, the CCP approach can be a very good way to go. When installing a DC-DC charger in a Transit, you may wonder where's the CCP ground? The CCP(s) rely on a chassis ground, and those grounds are NOT on the driver's seat pedestal near the CCPs. It's important to identify where you'll make your chassis ground connection early in the build. The BEMM details grounding points in the Transit, but many DIYers use the threaded holes from the D-rings that come with the Ford Cargo Tie-Down Hooks order option. Is the Ford Transit Dual Alternator Option Worth It? The Dual Alternator option, which requires the Dual AGM Batteries option and has CCP2, adds a second alternator that works in conjunction with the primary alternator to dramatically increase power at idle as well as reduce alternator heating and loading while the engine is running. More than 150 Amps of power at idle is available from CCP2 with the Dual Alternator option. Technically, 220 Amps of power while driving (or more) may be possible, but that requires wiring around CCP2 directly to the vehicle batteries as well as participating in Ford’s signaling for load shedding. Interfacing directly to CCP2 and staying below that 175 Amp threshold is the easy way, but you can read the BEMM and make things complicated if that extra charging power is important. That is really the tradeoff. The Dual Alternator option can be very attractive if idle charging performance matters to you. But if your system is modest, or if you do not need even-higher power aftermarket secondary alternator charging, Dual Alternator may be the right middle ground for high-enough charging rates with a straightforward DC-DC install. When an Aftermarket Secondary Alternator May Be Better If even more massive charging power is a need for your system, you should avoid the Dual Alternator option and add a separate secondary alternator kit. With a secondary alternator kit, you can still use a DC-DC charger on the primary alternator in parallel with the secondary alternator regulator, so the kit allows much more charging power as compared to the Ford Dual Alternator option. For example with a 12 Volt 280XP secondary alternator kit and one or two Orion XS 50 DC-DC chargers connected to CCP2, well over 300 Amps of charging power can be expected. For some camper van builders, this is probably beyond what is necessary. But for higher-demand systems, it is worth knowing that the factory Dual Alternator option is not the final word in Transit charging capability. Victron vs Sterling for Transit Charging If you have CCP2, this is one area where Victron DC-DC chargers are a little lacking. Right now, you need multiple Victron Orion XS chargers in parallel to take advantage of that 150+ Amps of easily accessible charging power. Sterling offers a one-box solution to fully use the benefits of the dual alternators, but Sterling does not have any integration to the Victron Cerbo GX and touch screen interface if that is important to your system. So the decision is not just about maximum charging output. It can also come down to ecosystem preference, monitoring, and how cleanly you want everything integrated into the rest of your electrical system. Don’t Ignore the Engine Run Signal Victron and Sterling DC-DC chargers have smart alternator sensing modes so that the chargers turn off when the engine is not running. Especially when using CCP1 which is always on, we highly recommend using Ford’s Vehicle Interface Connector (C33) Engine Run signal to the DC-DC charger’s remote terminal to ensure that the charger never depletes your vehicle battery bank. Read the BEMM for specifics on using the C33 interface signals. That is a small detail that can matter a lot in the real world. Even when a device has a smart sensing mode, hardwiring the proper Engine Run signal is the safer and more deliberate way to make sure your charger behaves the way you intend. Final Thoughts Ford Transit CCP1 and CCP2 provide a pretty builder-friendly way to connect a camper van electrical system to the vehicle side of the van. Older or simpler vans may only have CCP1. Vans with the Dual AGM Batteries or Auxiliary Fuse Panel option can also have CCP2, which opens the door to higher-current charging setups. Add the Dual Alternator option, and the Transit becomes even more capable for high-output charging, especially at idle. That does not mean every Transit builder needs CCP2 or two alternators. But if you’re planning a larger electrical system and want to make smart decisions before buying or building, these details are worth understanding early. And as always, read the BEMM for your specific model year before you cut, wire, drill, or assume anything. Frequently Asked Questions What are CCP1 and CCP2 on a Ford Transit? CCP stands for Customer Connection Point. Ford provides these connection points as an easier way to interface with the van’s battery system. In a camper van build, they are commonly used to connect DC-DC chargers to the vehicle side of the electrical system. What is the difference between CCP1 and CCP2? CCP1 is a lower-capacity connection point and is always on. CCP2 is higher-capacity and is controlled by the van’s computer. In practical terms, CCP1 can work well for simple, small charging setups, while CCP2 is the more useful option for higher-output camper van electrical systems. Which Ford Transit vans have CCP2? Older or single-battery vans may have only CCP1. Newer vans with the Dual AGM Batteries or Auxiliary Fuse Panel options can have both CCP1 and CCP2. If higher-current charging matters to your build, these are options worth paying attention to before you buy the van. Can I use a DC-DC charger with CCP1 or CCP2? Yes. Both CCP1 and CCP2 can be used with DC-DC chargers. A Victron Orion XS 50 is a strong fit for either one. If your Transit has CCP2, it gives you more room for larger charging setups than CCP1 does. CCP1 and CCP2 can be used simultaneously to different devices, but you should NOT connect CCP1 and CCP2 together. Is the Ford Transit Dual Alternator option worth it for a camper van? It can be, especially if idle charging performance matters to you. The Dual Alternator option adds a second alternator that increases available charging power at idle and helps reduce alternator loading while the engine is running. For higher-demand electrical systems, that can be a meaningful advantage. Should I design my system right up to the CCP fuse limits? No. The CCPs are fused, but those fuses are not especially convenient to access. You must design your system below those fuse limits rather than treating the fuse rating as your target operating point. Is Victron or Sterling better for a Ford Transit charging setup? That depends on your priorities. Victron is a very good fit if you want consistency with the broader Victron ecosystem and monitoring tools. Sterling can be attractive if you want a one-box higher-amperage solution, especially for taking fuller advantage of CCP2. The better choice depends on your system goals, not just the charger specs alone. Should I use Ford’s C33 Engine Run signal? Yes, especially if you are using CCP1. Because CCP1 is always on, wiring the C33 Engine Run signal to the charger’s remote terminals is a smart way to ensure the charger does not deplete your vehicle battery bank. Even if your charger has smart sensing features, using the proper Engine Run signal is a more deliberate approach. Additional Resources Ford Transit page. Use Build & Price to see all of the Ford options. Ford Transit Body & Equipment Mounting Manual Search by Model and “mounting manual” to find your model year BEMM. Ford Transit USA Forum is an active community of Transit owners and DIY camper van conversion enthusiasts.
Learn more
Why I Picked a Ford Transit for My Camper Van Conversion
We’re a vanlife company that enjoys and uses our camper vans. We do more than just sell products in our store. Our team has experience building and traveling in the big three camper van chassis – RAM ProMaster, Mercedes Sprinter, and Ford Transit – as well as Volkswagons, box trucks, and more. Zach wrote all about his preference for ProMaster. Mike talked about how he fell for “the look” of a “big…tough” Sprinter. This blog covers why I picked a Ford Transit for my DIY camper van conversion. This post is not a sales pitch for the Ford Transit. If you’re trying to decide between a ProMaster, Sprinter or Transit, my short answer is that the Transit gave me the best mix of AWD availability, useful factory options, lower expected cost of ownership, and easy service access across North America. That combination made it the best van for my camper conversion. Since you’re reading this blog, you’ve probably already read this suggestion in posts from Clayton or Mike or everyone else at Vanlife Outfitters – we strongly recommend renting or borrowing a camper van to try before you buy. I followed our own advice and rented a Hymer Sunlight and a Winnebago Revel well before I settled on a floorplan or specific equipment. The Sunlight was based on the Ram ProMaster chassis, and the Revel is built from a Sprinter chassis. Renting these vans provided tons of experience to base my own design decisions: van driving comfort, features/options, floorplan tradeoffs, installed devices, and more. So I rented a ProMaster and Sprinter, then I picked a Transit. Pray tell! The interwebs are full of opinions (and maybe a few facts too) comparing ProMasters, Sprinters, and Transits as a base for DIY camper van conversions. Each of the big three chassis offers tall and long models to support a glamping rig or smaller models to suit your needs. The vanlife industry has come a long way in a few years, so now all of the major models have customized options from roof racks to interior trim kits to water tanks and more. There are a few reasons why I chose a Transit. Why I Chose a Ford Transit Over a Sprinter or ProMaster AWD I wanted four or all wheel drive for peace of mind in snowy conditions and forest roads with variable conditions. Ford offers an AWD option in the Transit, but 4X4 is a (fairly expensive) aftermarket conversion. AWD eliminated the ProMaster from my list since it’s only front wheel drive. That alone did not make the decision for me, but it was a big factor. OEM Options All of the manufacturers offer numerous build options that help jumpstart the conversion from empty van to camper van. I found that many Ford dealerships had conversion-ready vans on their lots with options like swivel seats, extended gas tank, and even the hotly debated dual alternator package. You can always special order your van to tick every option box on your list. I tried, twice!, and never took delivery, but that’s a story for a different post. Cost and Service Having owned and maintained a European import car, I decided that the higher entry cost plus maintenance costs of a Mercedes was not for me. Since I’ve put hundreds of thousands of miles on my past travel vehicles, knowing that nearby service centers can fix Ford vehicles almost anywhere in North America was a factor for me. A desire for lower cost of ownership and ease of service pushed Mercedes down on my list. A Transit was an easy choice, and I certainly have no regrets. Ford Transit 101 for Camper Van Conversions Transit models and options vary by year, so this post won’t try and duplicate Ford’s website. Just know that we’re talking about the commercial Ford Transit van and not the Transit Connect, which is smaller. A majority of camper vans start with a Cargo Van model, although some customers needing more than two seats may opt with a Crew Van or Passenger Van model. Transit vans are available in many sizes including 130” and 148” wheelbases, three body heights from low to high, three body lengths from regular to extended, and four vehicle weight ratings. The largest Transit is a high roof, extended length van. Lower roof heights or shorter bodies trade off interior space for other benefits such as fitting in garages, easier parking and maneuvering, better fuel economy (due to weight), and of course cost. Ford offers two engine types (PDFi and EcoBoost), but there is not a diesel option for the Transit. The drive train options are AWD or rear wheel drive. Ford offers many build options that are helpful for camper van conversion. Note that some options are only available in specific models or years. Here is a quick take on some of the most popular options. 253-degree Rear Door Opening – useful if you need easy access to the garage to load and unload gear. 4-way manual swivel Driver and 4-way manual swivel Passenger seats – provides factory swivel seats. Auxiliary Fuel Port Extension Line – allows easy connection of an air heater to the fuel tank without the dreaded task of “dropping the fuel tank” during the install. Auxiliary Heater / AC Prep Package – comes with “stub lines” for the radiator coolant to allow easier connection to an IsoTemp water heater. Cargo Tie-Down Hooks – a low-cost option that provides threaded holes throughout the cargo area that are extremely useful for connecting your electrical system chassis ground. Digital Rearview Mirror – lets the driver see behind the vehicle virtually while driving. Extended Range Fuel Tank – increases the size of the fuel tank from 25 gallons to 31 gallons. Dual AGM Batteries – provides protection from running down your starter battery and is one of the factory options many van builders look for to help connect their electrical setups. Dual Alternator – can be valuable for higher-power charging setups. Check out this post for way more detail on Dual AGM Batteries, Dual Alternator and Ford Customer Connection Points for your Transit electrical systems. Front Overhead Shelf – provides a tiny bit of extra storage space and useful mounting points. Large Center Console – provides more drink holders and nooks and crannies between the driver and passenger areas. Power Sliding Door or Close Assist Feature – helps close the sliding door and minimizes that clanking door sound from slamming the heavy door closed. For DIY builds, you should understand the Body & Equipment Mounting Manual. The BEMM “provides general descriptions and advice for modifying vehicles” in Ford-speak. The BEMM details many important items that you need to know in a van conversion: Where and where not to drill and cut during the build How to interface to the Ford battery system Where to access chassis grounds How to access the roof rack mounting points Locations of airbags, safety equipment, and driving aid sensors Body mounting points My Experience with a Transit Camper Van Build I love my high roof, extended length Transit. The high roof Transit provides the most internal headroom of the big three (except for the Super High Roof ProMaster that has other limitations), which is high enough to comfortably stand in the aisle and support a bed lift that converts the garage into a dinette and workspace for rainy days. The length provides more than enough room for a queen-length bed, a sink and cookspace, a shoilet, and of course storage. The roof is large enough for an air conditioner, a rooftop fan, solar, and antennas for TV and internet. More broadly, the Transit worked well for the kind of camper van conversion I wanted – something capable enough for travel and boondocking, but still comfortable and practical to live with. Transits are not true off road vehicles, but they are perfectly capable in appropriate conditions. Transits can be modified with an aftermarket body lift, which then allows larger tires for more ground clearance and comfort on unmaintained roads. I’m still not doing the Rubicon in my Transit though. The extended length Transit in particular has a terrible departure angle, so you just need to be mindful of where you’re taking your rig. The van drives great with easy handling in all but extreme crosswinds (I’m talking to you, front range winds!). For a little perspective, here are some post-build numbers from my Transit build. Height is just under 10’ due to body lift and larger tires with rooftop A/C and vent fan. Fully loaded weight is approximately 9300 lbs with a 30 gallon fresh water tank. Ground clearance is roughly 8” to the differential. Ford Transit Camper Van Pros and Cons Does the Ford Transit have some disadvantages? Sure. The van is widest at mid-height. The Transit body is curved in all three directions, making cabinet building and installation…more fun? Transits are known to be fairly narrow in the cabin, so traversing between the driver and passenger seats or even trying to swivel the seats with the doors closed is a bit of a challenge. I’ve also had a fair share of recalls, and the workmanship is okay but doesn’t scream luxury brand. As an example, the threaded holes on the roof to accept mounting adapters are sometimes misaligned with the covers to access said holes. I consider myself lucky that my holes were accessible and didn’t require some grinding to complete my roof rack install. That said, no van is perfect, and I can live with these tradeoffs. On the plus side, the Transit checked the boxes that mattered most to me: AWD availability, useful factory options, strong service access, good headroom, and enough space to build the layout I wanted. If those same things matter most to you, a Ford Transit is a strong camper van platform to consider. Final Thoughts If you’re trying to choose the best van for a camper conversion, there is no perfect answer. ProMasters, Sprinters and Transits all have strengths and weaknesses. For me, AWD, lower expected cost of ownership, easier service access, and the right mix of factory options made the Transit the clear winner. I rented a ProMaster and Sprinter, then I picked a Transit. I certainly have no regrets. If you’re still comparing vans, I’d strongly recommend doing what I did – rent or borrow before you buy. A few days of real-world use will teach you more than hours of reading opinions on the internet. Frequently Asked Questions – Ford Transit Camper Van Conversion Is a Ford Transit good for a camper van conversion? Yes. A Ford Transit is a strong camper van platform because it offers multiple sizes, useful factory options, available AWD, and broad service access across North America. It is not perfect, but it gives many DIY builders a very practical mix of capability, comfort, and ownership simplicity. Why choose a Ford Transit over a ProMaster or Sprinter? For me, the Transit gave the best overall mix of AWD availability, factory options, lower expected cost of ownership than a Sprinter, and easier service access. A ProMaster or Sprinter may be a better fit for some builders, but those were the factors that pushed the Transit to the top of my list. Is Ford Transit AWD good enough for vanlife? For most vanlife use, yes. The Transit is not a true off-road vehicle, but AWD is very helpful for snowy roads, wet conditions, and forest roads with variable conditions. I wanted it for peace of mind, not because I was trying to turn the van into a hardcore trail rig. What Ford Transit options are best for a camper conversion? That depends on your build, but some of the most useful factory options can include swivel seats, an extended range fuel tank, 253-degree rear door opening, auxiliary fuel port extension line, overhead shelf, and certain electrical-related options. It is worth thinking through your build goals before buying the van, because the right factory options can make the conversion much easier. What are the downsides of a Ford Transit camper conversion? The Transit does have tradeoffs. The body is curved in all three directions, which can make cabinet work and installation more complicated. The cabin is also fairly narrow, especially when moving between the front seats. I have also had my fair share of recalls, and the workmanship does not exactly scream luxury brand. None of that makes it a bad choice, but those are real tradeoffs to consider. Should I rent a ProMaster, Sprinter or Transit before buying? Absolutely. Renting or borrowing a van before buying is one of the best ways to make a smarter platform decision. A few days of real-world driving and living in a van will teach you a lot about comfort, layout, visibility, storage, and what features actually matter to you. That experience was a big help in my own decision. Additional Resources Ford Transit page. Use Build & Price to see all of the Ford options. Ford Transit Body & Equipment Mounting Manual Search by Model and “mounting manual” to find your model year BEMM. Ford Transit USA Forum is an active community of Transit owners and DIY camper van conversion enthusiasts.
Learn more
Victron Lynx Distributor Fuse Size Guide: Mega Fuse Selection Chart
The Victron Energy Lynx Distributor is a really convenient device that provides both positive and negative bus bars, along with four fuse locations for power distribution to your chargers and loads. The Lynx Distributor uses Mega fuses, but the right fuse size depends on the specific device in your electrical system. In this short guide, we provide a quick reference for manufacturer-recommended Lynx Distributor fuse sizes for common components like Victron MultiPlus inverter/chargers, Orion DC/DC chargers, MPPT charge controllers, Wakespeed alternator setups, and load centers. We recommend a Lynx Distributor as part of your camper van electrical system in all of our free example wiring diagrams, whether or not your system includes other Victron Lynx devices. This blog is short and sweet – keep reading for a quick reference guide to choosing fuses for your Lynx Distributor, This guide applies to both M8 and M10 Lynx versions that use the same Mega fuses. How To Choose The Right Lynx Distributor Fuse Size The Lynx Distributor uses Mega fuses. Mega fuses support fuse ratings from 40 Amps up to 500 Amps. Many customers contact us looking for help with Lynx Distributor fuse size selection. How do we pick fuse ratings? We read the manual! In most cases, the device manufacturer already tells you the recommended fuse size, so this guide simply pulls those recommendations into one place for quick reference. That is especially helpful for common van electrical components like inverter/chargers, DC/DC chargers, MPPT charge controllers, secondary alternators, and load centers, where fuse size can vary quite a bit by model and system voltage. Common Fuse Sizing Mistakes Choosing the right fuse size is not the same thing as sizing your cable. A fuse recommendation helps protect the branch circuit and connected device, but cable size still needs to be chosen based on current, cable length, voltage drop, insulation rating, and installation conditions. In other words, do not assume the fuse size automatically tells you which wire size to use. We recommend using the Blue Sea Circuit Wizard to help with cable sizing. DC/DC chargers and MPPT charge controllers can also require a little extra attention. With many DC/DC chargers, the house battery side needs a fuse, and the vehicle battery side does too. With MPPTs, the battery-side fuse is only part of the picture, and a solar-side disconnect is often recommended as well. This chart is meant to give you a quick starting point for the Lynx Distributor side of the system, while still pointing you back to the manufacturer documentation for full installation details. Victron Lynx Distributor Fuse Chart By Device Use the chart below to find manufacturer-recommended Mega fuse sizes for common devices used with the Victron Lynx Distributor. Select the column for your system voltage. Match your device model exactly. Use the manufacturer-recommended fuse size shown. Confirm cable size and installation details separately. Device System Voltage 12 Volts 24 Volts 48 Volts Inverter/charger MultiPlus 12/2000/80300 Amp MultiPlus 12/3000/120400 Amp MultiPlus 24/3000/70300 Amp MultiPlus 48/3000/35125 Amp MultiPlus 48/5000/70200 Amp DC/DC charger OUT House battery side fuseIN Vehicle battery side also requires fuse Orion-Tr Smart 12/12/3060 Amp Orion XS 5060 Amp Orion XS 140060 Amp 2x Orion XS 50125 Amp 2x Orion XS 1400125 Amp MPPT charge controller BATT House battery side fusePV solar side disconnect recommended MPPT 100/2040 Amp MPPT 100/3040 Amp MPPT 150/3540 Amp MPPT 100/5060 Amp MPPT 150/6080 Amp MPPT 150/7080 Amp MPPT 150/85100 Amp Secondary alternator 280XP300 Amp 55XP200 Amp 51V-HPX100125 Amp Load center (12 Volts) Primary fuse to branch fuses in load center Direct to load center80 Amps Orion 24/12-70 to load center60 Amps 2x Orion-Tr 48/12-30 to load center40 Amps Example wiring diagram uses Littelfuse holder with 80 Amps for additional capacity. See Bonus Tips below Bonus Tip #1: Blown Fuse Monitoring The Lynx Distributor has a power LED as well as four fuse status LEDs. These LEDs can help you detect blown fuses. If the Lynx Distributor is connected to a Lynx Smart BMS (using the RJ10 cable) then the fuse status can be viewed with the VictronConnect app or by using a Cerbo GX and touch screen. If you do not use all four Mega fuse locations in your Lynx Distributor, you will see false alarms from the unused locations (because having no fuse is an “open” just like a blown fuse). We recommend installing spare Mega fuses in unused fuse locations to work around this nit. If you don’t have a Lynx device connected to your Lynx Distributor to power the LEDs, then you may want to check out the Turning On The LED Lights On The Lynx Distributor hack in this blog. Bonus Tip #2: Using a 5th fuse or connection with a Lynx Distributor If you use up all four Lynx Mega fuse holders but still need another fuse location (or three), we recommend a few ways to expand. A MRBF Terminal Fuse Block and fuse fits nicely on the “upper right” positive stud of the Lynx Distributor. For a single extra fused branch, wire your extra charging source or load directly to the MRBF. The MRBF can be expanded with a Littelfuse MIDI Fuse Holder (3 Position) which acts as a compact secondary bus bar for up to 200 Amps of maximum current with three MIDI fuse holders. MIDI fuses range from 30 Amps and up. Using a short (less than 7”) cable, you can bolt a lug directly to the “upper right” positive stud and use an inline fuse holder (that comes with some devices like air conditioners), a Mega Fuse Holder, or a MIDI Fuse Holder. Frequently Asked Questions What fuse size should I use for a Victron Lynx Distributor? The Lynx Distributor uses Mega fuses, but the correct fuse size depends on the specific device connected to that fused branch. In most cases, the best place to start is the device manual. This guide is meant to save you time by pulling together manufacturer-recommended fuse sizes for common devices like MultiPlus inverter/chargers, Orion DC/DC chargers, MPPT charge controllers, Wakespeed alternator setups, and load centers. Does the Victron Lynx Distributor use Mega fuses? Yes. The Victron Lynx Distributor uses Mega fuses for up to four positive fused connections. Mega fuses are a good fit for many camper van electrical system components because they are available in a wide range of current ratings and are commonly used for higher-current branches like inverter/chargers, chargers, and load centers. What is the difference between Victron Lynx Distributor M8 and M10? The main difference is the stud size on the bus bars. The M10 model uses M10 studs for interconnecting other Lynx devices or external lugs, while the M8 version uses M8 studs. For either version, the fuse connections require M8 lugs. The M10 version replaced the M8 version, so most newer systems will use M10. Can I use a Lynx Distributor without a Lynx Smart BMS? Yes. A Lynx Distributor can be used as a standalone set of positive and negative bus bars with four fused connections. It does not require a Lynx Smart BMS to function. That said, if you want certain LED and monitoring features to work through the broader Lynx system, you may need another Lynx device such as a Lynx Smart BMS or Lynx Shunt. Do I need a fuse on both the input and output side of a DC/DC charger? Yes. For DC/DC chargers, it is common for the house battery side to require a fuse and for the vehicle battery side to require one as well. The exact setup depends on the charger model and your wiring layout, so always confirm with the manufacturer documentation. This guide is intended as a quick reference, not a substitute for the installation manual. What does a Victron Lynx Distributor do? A Victron Lynx Distributor provides a clean way to distribute both positive and negative power in your electrical system while also giving you four fused positive connections for major devices and branches. In practical terms, it helps organize your system, reduce wiring clutter, and add overcurrent protection to important circuits like chargers, inverter/chargers, and load centers. Do I connect both negative and positive to the Lynx Distributor? Yes, the Lynx Distributor contains two separate bus bars. The red, top bar is for positive, and the black, bottom bar is for negative. How do I connect a Cerbo GX to a Lynx Distributor? A Lynx Distributor does not bolt directly to a Cerbo GX. A Lynx Shunt or Lynx Smart BMS is required to transmit data to a Cerbo GX. Additional Resources Learn about our systems and free example wiring diagrams Victron Energy Lynx Distributor manual
Learn more
Vanlife Roadmap Podcast: Ep. 5
From Problem to Product – How Dutch Built The Bug Wall Vanlife promises fresh air, open doors, and a closer connection to nature. It also comes with mosquitoes. For Dutch, that small but persistent problem became the spark for something much bigger. What started as a way to make camping more comfortable for his family eventually turned into The Bug Wall – a product now used across the vanlife community. Before Dutch was building products for camper vans, he had spent most of his life building things with his hands. He describes himself as a longtime finish carpenter who worked closely with his dad, learned tools early, and spent years solving practical problems through custom work. That background matters in this episode because it helps explain why his path into vans, and later into The Bug Wall, started with doing rather than theorizing. A builder before he was a vanlifer Dutch did not come into vanlife from a product or startup background. He came into it through family camping, carpentry, and a habit of figuring things out for himself. Before the van, he had already rebuilt a truck camper for family travel, and before that he had years of experience with tools, home remodeling, and custom fabrication. He also had enough automotive experience to feel comfortable taking on the systems side of a van build, even when some of it was new territory. That combination is part of what makes this conversation useful. Dutch is not telling a polished founder story. He is describing what happened when a hands-on person built a van for his family, ran into real problems, and kept solving them one by one. The first van forced real tradeoffs When Dutch decided to build a van, he was not building for solo travel or occasional weekends. He was trying to make a van work for a family of four, with four seats, sleeping space, and an indoor bathroom his wife strongly wanted. That quickly turned the build into an exercise in tradeoffs. He says he used thick cardboard mockups inside the van just to help visualize the layout and understand how quickly space disappeared once he added a rear seat and shower. That is one of the stronger themes in the episode. Vans are small, and good ideas start colliding with each other fast. A feature can sound easy in theory, then consume a surprising amount of room once it becomes real. For Dutch, those decisions were not abstract. They were tied to how his family would actually use the van. He also did not wait until the van was perfectly finished before using it. He says they took many trips while the build was still bare bones, using sleeping bags and taking the van to the mountains, on family visits, and on longer drives. That mattered because it let real use shape the build instead of leaving every decision to imagination. One of his clearest lessons is to keep things simpler Another valuable part of the episode is how candid Dutch is about what he would change. In that first van, he chose a hydronic heating setup because he wanted hot water for the shower. At the time, there were not many ready-made kits, so he pieced the system together himself and tested it on a bench before installing it. In hindsight, he says that is one of the main choices he would undo. He describes the system as too fussy, too dependent on extra controls and workarounds, and much more complicated than he wanted once the van was in use. What worked better for him was the simpler stuff. Two roof fans worked well. A straightforward electrical setup worked well. The van did not need an elaborate system to do what his family actually needed it to do. That lesson carried into his newer van too. He says he still prefers simple, ready-made systems where possible, even if they cost more up front, because they can save time and complexity during a DIY build. That idea shows up again and again in the conversation. Complexity is not always sophistication. Sometimes it is just more to install, more to monitor, and more to troubleshoot later. The screen problem appeared in the middle of the build The origin of The Bug Wall did not come from a business plan. It came from a family problem Dutch had not fully considered. While building the van, his wife asked what would happen once they opened those large door openings in mosquito-heavy places. Dutch says screens were not even on his original list because their earlier truck camper already had screened openings built in. The van did not. Once he looked at the size of the sliding door opening, he realized how big the problem really was. Dutch wanted airflow. He wanted the van to feel open. He did not want his family getting eaten alive. And the options available at the time were, in his words, extremely expensive. So he did what he had already been doing throughout the build – he tried to make his own solution. The first versions were rough, and that was part of the point Dutch is clear that the early versions were not good. He and his wife worked on them at home, with his wife doing most of the sewing on the first attempts. The first few screens for his own van went through multiple rounds before they were even remotely acceptable. He used whatever materials were available locally because he was not trying to launch a company. He was just trying to solve the problem at a cost that made sense for his own family. That iterative process is one of the most useful parts of the episode for DIY builders. Dutch did not find the answer by having the perfect design on day one. He found it by making something, discovering what did not work, starting over, and improving it again. He describes that kind of problem solving as fairly natural to him because so much of his earlier carpentry work involved one-off projects with no exact template to follow. The product improved further once he could test across multiple vans. A friend had a ProMaster, another had a Sprinter, and Dutch had a Transit. That gave him real-world opportunities to refine fit and function across the major platforms instead of guessing from a single van. From personal fix to real business At some point, the project shifted. Once Dutch saw that the design was becoming workable across different vans, and once he compared it to the expensive options already on the market, he started to think it might be a real product. He says he first offered it publicly in August 2020, and he still remembers the first sale to someone he did not know. That was the moment the idea became more than a solution for his own van. The growth that followed was not especially polished. Dutch describes the earliest operation as a folding table in his garage, then a move into real shop space once demand outgrew the garage. Orders increased quickly, and he and his family adapted as they went. Over time, that meant better materials, better sewing, more help, and a more legitimate production setup. It also meant dealing with supply issues, lead times, and the normal growing pains that come when a side project turns into a real business. That part of the story is interesting on its own, but it is also useful because it shows how often businesses in this space begin. Not with a grand strategy, but with a real problem, repeated use, enough persistence to improve the answer, and just enough demand to prove the answer matters to other people too. The bigger lesson is not really about screens The screen story is memorable, but the broader value of the episode is Dutch’s advice about building vans around actual use. Near the end of the conversation, he says one of the most common mistakes he sees is people overcomplicating their build or building for an imagined use case instead of the way they will really travel. He talks about people making vans too house-like for an adventurous style of travel, or going too minimal when what they really want is more comfort and usability. His advice is to figure out how the van will actually be used, then keep the build as simple as possible to support that. That advice feels especially credible because it runs through his whole story. He learned it in the family van layout. He learned it through the hydronic system he would not choose again. He learned it in the design of The Bug Wall. And he learned it by seeing how people come back from real trips and suddenly realize what actually matters. He also makes the point that screens are not only about mosquitoes. They are about airflow, comfort, and making the van easier to live in. They let people leave doors open, move in and out more easily, and avoid constantly opening and slamming a large sliding door around camp. That is a good example of how a small product can solve a big quality-of-life problem. The takeaway for DIY builders What makes Dutch’s story worth listening to is not just that he turned an annoyance into a business. It is that his process reflects something many DIY builders need to hear. Start with the problem in front of you. Build for how you really live. Do not confuse more complicated with more capable. And do not wait for the perfect master plan before taking the first step. For this episode, that might be the most durable lesson. The Bug Wall came from one practical question inside one family van. But the mindset behind it applies much more broadly. Real use reveals what matters. Simplicity often holds up better than complexity. And many good van decisions start the same way Dutch describes his own process – with step one.
Learn more
Vanlife Roadmap Podcast: Ep. 4
What 50 Camper Van Builds Taught Clayton About Layouts, Electrical, and Real Use Before Clayton was building camper vans, he was building and fixing just about everything else. In this episode of Vanlife Roadmap, he shares a path that starts in small-town Oregon, runs through cars, motorcycles, custom fabrication, and a one-man van build shop in Arizona, and eventually lands at a practical view of vanlife that is shaped less by trends than by real-life use. The throughline is easy to spot – build it well, make it work for real life, and do not assume the nicest-looking idea will hold up best once you start living with it. He learned to build by necessity Clayton describes growing up without much money, which meant many of the things he wanted had to be built, repaired, or adapted from something broken. That started early. He says he built his first car at age 12 and spent his teen years working on engines, transmissions, suspension, paint, and whatever else a project needed. By high school, he and a friend were advanced enough in their auto shop class that their teacher let them bring in their own projects and effectively demonstrate for the class. That early hands-on background matters because it helps explain the rest of the story. Clayton did not come into vans as someone learning to use tools for the first time. He came into vans as someone who had already spent years solving mechanical and fabrication problems with his hands. That experience later made the van platform attractive for a simple reason – it combined the creativity of custom building with the mechanical side of vehicle modification. From cars to motorcycles to custom fabrication After cars came motorcycles. Clayton worked at BMC Choppers, where he says he was building around 30 bikes a month, and later spent time at West Coast Choppers after Jesse James recognized him from a TV appearance and offered him a builder role. He describes that period as valuable not only because of the visibility of those shops, but because of the chance to keep refining his fabrication skills around high-end custom work. That chapter eventually ran into the 2008 housing crisis. As demand in that world dried up, Clayton shifted into sales while continuing to run a custom shop on the side, mostly working on his own hot rods and lowriders. Vans were not yet the center of the story. That came later. Vans entered the picture during the pandemic Clayton says his first real exposure to modern camper vans came through a friend who had built one and was using it to work long hospital shifts, then head into the mountains for long stretches during his off time. At first, the idea did not fully click. He says he was picturing an older van where you had to crawl around inside, not a tall Sprinter you could stand up in. Once he saw the van in person, though, that changed quickly. From there, he started doing his own research and was immediately drawn in. For someone who already liked building custom things, a van offered a lot at once – cabinetry, layout, systems, electrical, storage, suspension, wheels, bumpers, lights, and all the puzzle-solving that comes with fitting real function into a small space. He bought a 2019 Sprinter, built it himself, and quickly discovered both the appeal and the compromises of his first layout. His first van taught him what looked good and what actually worked One especially useful part of this conversation is how clearly Clayton separates ideas that look appealing from ideas that work well over time. In his first van, he knew he wanted a shower, a bathroom, and a real kitchen. He cooks often, wanted a larger sink, and knew he needed more amenities than the minimalist bed-and-cooler setup he had first seen in his friend’s build. But he also chose a dinette layout that, in his words, looked great in pictures. What he found in real use was that breaking down and rebuilding the bed every day was a hassle, and the social vision he had in mind for that seating area did not really play out. That lesson stuck. He sold the van quickly, bought another, and reworked the layout around more openness and easier daily use. The second version kept the kitchen and shower but simplified the sleeping setup and improved the flow through the rear of the van. That second van also helped push him toward a bigger realization – since people kept asking who built his van and whether he could build one for them, there must be a business opportunity there. A custom van business grew from real demand Clayton says he launched his Arizona van build business in 2021 after selling his second van, buying two more, getting a shop, and setting up to build for customers. Business came through word of mouth and direct interest from people who saw the vans in person and wanted something similar. Over about four years, he completed more than 50 full van builds, plus another 50 partial builds. And he never built the same van twice. Each customer had different priorities, different must-haves, and different ideas about how they wanted to use the vehicle. That flexibility helped him win work. It also made the shop less efficient. Clayton is candid about that tradeoff. Fully custom layouts brought in customers who did not want to choose from a small menu of standard floor plans, but they also required more time, more measuring, and more problem-solving on every build. It was good for differentiation, but harder on production. Craftsmanship mattered more than scale Another strong theme in the episode is Clayton’s frustration with inconsistent workmanship. He describes trying to grow the shop with additional help, only to find that not everyone cared about craftsmanship or quality to the same degree. In practice, that often meant he was redoing work, paying for labor twice, and losing both time and margin in the process. He ultimately pared things back and worked more closely with one trusted carpenter, while personally touching every van in the shop each day. That experience seems to have reinforced something he already believed – quality is not just about having the right ideas. It depends on execution, materials, and the discipline to do the job well the first time. That mindset shows up in how he talks about electrical systems, cabinetry hardware, and even plywood. In a van, vibration, moisture, temperature swings, and rough roads expose weak decisions quickly. Cheaper drawer slides rattle. Cheap latches fail. Lower-grade wood warps. Saving money up front can create far more frustration later. The most memorable builds were not always the most practical Clayton shares several examples of unusual requests from customers – stainless showers, tile work, hidden compartments, electronically released false floors, steam showers, espresso machines, convection ovens, and highly customized storage. Those details are interesting on their own, but they also reveal something more useful. Custom work can be impressive. It can also create bigger demands on the rest of the build. A steam shower needs power. A heavily appointed kitchen changes layout priorities. Specialized storage solutions add complexity. None of that is automatically wrong. But the conversation suggests that every choice in a van has consequences, and those consequences usually spread into other systems. That is one reason Clayton repeatedly comes back to quality parts and careful planning rather than just feature accumulation. What DIY builders keep asking Clayton helped DIY builders through Vanlife Outfitters in 2025, and he says many of the biggest questions still center on the same things – air conditioning, refrigerators, heaters, and electrical systems. His answers are practical rather than absolute. On air conditioning, his view is that the right answer depends mostly on where you plan to camp. It is possible to live without AC. Plenty of people do. But that choice affects comfort, power planning, and how the van will feel in different climates. On refrigerators, his own bias is toward getting the largest one you can reasonably fit, partly because he uses a lot of food and wants the convenience of standing items up rather than constantly unpacking a top-loader to reach the bottom. On electrical questions, the theme is less about one exact answer and more about taking the system seriously. He says many callers are trying to figure out amp-hour needs, fuse placement, wire gauge, or whether certain upgrades can wait. That is where his advice gets especially useful. One of his clearest lessons is to plan for future upgrades early Clayton makes a strong case for doing certain electrical planning before you think you need it. He points to heaters and air conditioners as good examples. Even if someone is not ready to install one immediately, he would often pre-run wiring so the van was ready later. The logic is straightforward – adding major electrical equipment after cabinets, walls, and headliners are already finished can turn a manageable decision into a painful retrofit. That is not glamorous advice, but it is durable advice. It reflects the kind of lesson people usually learn only after they have already committed to a build path. Planning ahead for likely future needs can preserve flexibility and prevent a lot of unnecessary teardown later. The biggest mistake he would warn people about When Clayton talks about mistakes from his early vans, his clearest example is using lower-quality electrical components from a heavily marketed company that did not hold up and did not provide meaningful support. He does not name the brand, but the lesson is easy to understand – a cheaper part is not really cheaper if it fails early or leaves you without help when something goes wrong. That is especially true in a van, where systems are tightly interconnected and troubleshooting can quickly become stressful. His takeaway is simple – use quality components, value expert support, and avoid making short-term savings your main decision filter. For DIY builders, that is one of the most practical insights in the episode because it applies well beyond one product category. Why he stepped away from building full time Clayton says he originally hoped the business would let him travel more. In reality, it pulled him in the opposite direction. Instead of freedom, he found himself working extreme hours in Arizona heat, carrying too much of the business himself, and drifting further from the lifestyle that had helped draw him into vans in the first place. Combined with personal loss in his family over that period, the imbalance eventually pushed him to stop, finish his last build, and step into a more travel-focused chapter of life. That part of the story adds an important layer to the episode. It is a reminder that even in a freedom-oriented industry, it is possible to build a business that gives other people flexibility while losing your own. Clayton’s decision to walk away from that pace gives added weight to the advice he now gives about designing around actual use and actual priorities. What he still would not skip Asked what he would never skip in a future van, Clayton’s answer is immediate – an indoor shower and bathroom. For him, that is not a luxury item. It is central to how he wants to live in a van, especially when traveling full time. That does not mean it is the right answer for everyone. In fact, one of the healthier ideas in the conversation is that van decisions are personal. Different people camp differently. Different people cook differently. Different people care about showers, kitchens, seating, storage, and climate control in very different ways. Clayton says he encourages people to rent vans for a weekend and try layouts before committing. That might be the most broadly useful lesson in the episode – test your assumptions before you build around them. The bigger takeaway What makes this conversation useful is not just Clayton’s resume or the number of vans he built. It is the way his experience sharpens a few recurring truths. Real use exposes weak ideas. Cheap parts usually cost more later. Layout decisions that look good on paper can become annoying in daily life. And some of the smartest build decisions are the ones that preserve flexibility before the walls close up. For DIY builders, that is the value of Episode 04. Clayton is not describing vanlife in the abstract. He is describing what changed once the van was actually built, used, sold, rebuilt, and built again for other people. That makes this episode less about inspiration alone and more about judgment – the kind that helps you make better decisions before your own build gets too far down the road.
Learn more
Victron Cerbo GX User Interface Overview: Classic versus New GUI
The Victron Cerbo GX gives you a central way to monitor and control your camper van or off-grid electrical system. Victron has offered two Graphical User Interfaces (GUIs) for several years. The features in the interfaces are almost the same, but the look is Oh. So. Different. If you have a Cerbo GX or Ekrano GX and didn’t realize the flexibility you have for your touch screen appearance, then this post is for you! This blog provides a comparison and explains how to switch between the Victron Cerbo user interfaces, the Classic GUI and the New GUI. That’s right, there’s another super thoughtful name from Victron…”New GUI”. We can’t wait to talk about the “New New GUI” in another few years. Feel free to check out this video from Victron highlighting the New GUI. Keeping reading for our take. And let’s get this out of the way: I’m biased. I’m on Team New GUI. The look is a little sleeker, more information is available on fewer pages, and it takes less taps to navigate. We’re starting to see some features available only on the New GUI, and we expect that trend to continue. But to be honest for now both user interfaces offer essentially the same information. Before we dive into the details, check out this high-level comparison of the two interfaces. Feature Classic GUI New GUI Default display Often yes No Firmware version Any version v3.50 or higher Layout style Familiar look More modern Navigation More taps Fewer taps Future feature support Stable Stable Stronger moving forward Best for Familiarity New installs Long term use Classic GUI Most customers are familiar with the Classic GUI Overview page. Chances are that you received a Cerbo GX needing a firmware update, and Classic is the default. Everything (well, almost everything?) you need to know about configuring and using the Classic user interface is covered in this previous blog post. Tapping the Overview screen gives you the Menu option, and you can scroll down to the Settings options. We want to call out two specific Settings pages in this blog: Menu -> Settings -> Firmware -> Online updates is where firmware updates can be completed. Don’t forget that your Cerbo needs a good Wi-Fi connection to the internet for firmware updates as covered in our setup blog. Menu -> Settings -> Display & language -> User interface is how to customize your touch screen display. In particular, this page is where to switch from Classic GUI to New GUI. You must install firmware v3.50 or higher to use the New GUI. And don’t worry, when selecting an interface you’re not making a life commitment. Feel free to switch back and forth between the two user interfaces to see which one is best for you. You may have heard of a powerful add-on for the Victron display called GuiMods. Victron incorporated many of the GuiMods enhancements into the New GUI, so now GuiMods is deprecated and not necessary. We highly recommend running the New GUI, and these included features are one of the reasons! New GUI The New GUI features an improved layout requiring less navigation and presenting more information on each screen. As in Classic, you tap the screen to “wake” the interface, and your primary screen navigation options show along the bottom. In the New GUI, these pages are termed Brief, Overview, Levels, Notifications, and Settings. You have the capability to set the default Start page that’s shown after the screen returns from sleep, and you can hide certain screens like Brief to suit your preferences. There is also a Boat page that can be enabled as the 6th main navigation screen. The pages shown below are with the Display mode set to Dark. You can also set the Display mode to Light. The Brief page shows charging sources on the left, State of Charge & a snapshot of Levels in the middle, and loads on the right. Brief is exactly that, a brief high-level summary of your system status. The Overview page is similar to the Classic Overview. As in the Brief page, sources are on the left and loads are on the right. You can tap each source or load to “dive in” to an expanded view of each device. The center of the Overview shows your battery bank and your inverter/charger (is it a charging source or is it a load!? Yes!? depending on what’s plugged in.) Some quick navigation icons are shown at the top left of any page that’s “awake”, as shown in the following screenshots starting with the Overview. These icons provide quick navigation to set your inverter/charger mode (On, Charger only, or Off) and to control switches & relays. Victron will probably add even more icons here over time. The Levels page shows all connected Tanks levels and temperature sensors (Environment in Victron-speak). The Notifications page shows warnings and alarms from all connected devices. These notices include 3rd party devices like SOK batteries with Victron Communications and the Wakespeed regulator in a secondary alternator kit. If everything is swell in your system, it should read No current alerts like the picture below. If you’ve got an alarm that you can’t resolve, maybe it’s time to contact us. The Settings page is used primarily during your commissioning phase. The Settings -> General -> Display page is useful for tailoring many display preferences to suit your needs. As in Classic, we’ll call out two specific New GUI Settings pages pertinent to this blog: Settings -> General -> Firmware -> Online updates is where firmware updates can be completed. Don’t forget that your Cerbo needs a good Wi-Fi connection to the internet for firmware updates as covered in our updated setup blog. Settings -> General -> Display & Appearance -> User interface is how to customize your touch screen display, including switching back to the Classic GUI from the New GUI. As you can see, the page names and navigation is ever so slightly different between the two interfaces, but the information is comparable. Note that in recent Victron firmware releases, we’re seeing more information that is available only in the New GUI. An example of this is detailed battery cell information for NG batteries. We expect to see more focus on the New GUI in the future, so that’s yet another reason we highly recommend going New. Wrap Up The Cerbo GX user interface lets you customize your camper van touch screen display. For most users, we recommend the New GUI. The Classic GUI is still useful for those that prefer the traditional layout, however some features are now being supported only in the New GUI. Especially when commissioning a new system, we recommend starting by updating the firmware and testing both interfaces. Pick the user interface that works best for you, and enjoy using your system! Please check out all of our products in our store. If you have any questions about the Cerbo GX user interfaces or any of our products, please don’t hesitate to contact us. Frequency Asked Questions 1, What is the Victron Energy Cerbo GX? The Cerbo GX (MK2) is Victron’s communication center that allows you to always have perfect control over your system from wherever you are and maximizes its performance. Simply access the Cerbo directly using a touch screen or remotely using the Victron Remote Management (VRM) portal. 2. What is the difference between the Classic GUI and New GUI on the Cerbo GX? The Victron Cerbo GX New GUI provides a modern, high-speed interface with improved visualization, including more customization, a Brief view, and support for Light and Dark modes. The Classic GUI features a more traditional, boxy layout and color palette. 3. Do I need to update firmware to use the New GUI on Cerbo GX? Yes. Update the Cerbo GX to the latest firmware version (v3.50 or higher) to support the New GUI. 4, How do I switch from Classic GUI to New GUI on the Victron Cerbo GX? First update firmware using the Classic GUI by navigating to Menu -> Settings -> Firmware -> Online updates. Then navigate to Menu -> Settings -> Display & language -> User interface and switch to New GUI. 5. Can I switch back from the New GUI to the Classic GUI on Cerbo GX? Yes. You can switch between the New GUI or the Classic GUI to suit your preferences. In the New GUI, navigate to Settings -> General -> Display & Appearance -> User interface to switch back to the Classic GUI. 6. How do I connect a Cerbo GX to Wi-Fi? In order to perform firmware updates or use the Victron Remote Monitoring (VRM) portal, the Cerbo GX needs a strong Wi-Fi connection. The Cerbo’s internal antenna is not meant for long range connections. Using your touch screen, navigate to Menu -> Settings -> Wi-Fi -> Wi-Fi networks. Select the network name you wish to connect to and press on the empty “field” area on the right side of the password row. This will open a virtual keyboard allowing you to enter the password for the Wi-Fi network. After you enter the password and return to that network’s screen, you should see that the “State” row reads “Connected”. If not connected, either your Wi-Fi strength is too low or you incorrectly entered your password. Try moving your Cerbo closer to the Wi-Fi router if you’re sure that the password is correct. Additional Resources Cerbo GX setup guides: How to configure your system using the Classic GUI How to set up remote monitoring in the New GUI How to configure your system in the VRM with the New GUI Cerbo communication center manual: Victron Energy Cerbo GX Product pages Cerbo GX (MK2) Touch GX
Learn more
Plumbing for Real Life: Showers, Hot Water, and Fast Drains
By Clayton Houser – Professional van builder (50+ full builds) Clayton explains why van plumbing stops feeling “simple” once you live with it – then shows how he plans showers, tanks, hot water, and drain speed so the system feels normal, works daily, and stays serviceable without tearing the van apart. This is the eighth article in Clayton's Van Build series - you can view the series homepage here. Plumbing is one of those systems people assume will be simple until they live with it. A slow sink, a shower that backs up, or a leak you can’t reach turns “minor” decisions into daily frustration. My plumbing philosophy is pretty consistent. I want it to feel normal. I want drains that actually drain, water pressure that feels usable, and a setup I can service without tearing the van apart. Plumbing Starts With One Honest Question Do you want a shower, or just a sink? Most plumbing decisions get easier once you answer that. A sink-only build can be straightforward. A shower changes the whole system – tank sizing, hot water, drain design, and where everything lives. For me, showers matter enough that they show up early in layout. Once the bed decision is made, shower and bathroom decisions are right behind it because they’re big space claims and big system drivers. Why I’m Pro-Shower I’ve lived the “no shower” idea. In theory, it sounds fine – gyms, campgrounds, whatever. In reality, I didn’t use the gym showers, and I never found campground showers I actually wanted to use. I’ve also had an outdoor shower, and where I camped it often turned into either a mess or a privacy problem. After that, I stopped treating a shower as optional. If I’m going to build a van I’ll actually want to live in, I need an indoor shower, and I plan the plumbing, tanks, and hot water around that from the start. I Plumb It Like a House Drain speed matters more than people think There’s almost nothing I hate more than a slow drain, especially in a shower. I’ve used inch-and-a-half drains because I want sinks and showers to drain like a normal home. That’s a big reason I avoid the typical RV drain kit approach. A lot of RV drain kits rely on small expandable hose. That can be fine with tiny RV sinks and low flow, but many of my builds use real sinks and faucets. If your drain can’t keep up, you feel it every day. Sequence Matters I like to plumb while the van is still open Plumbing is easier when access is good. Once walls and cabinets are finished, it gets harder to route lines, mount tanks, and fix mistakes cleanly. One workflow I’ve used is setting the shower and the sink base after the floor is in, then plumbing behind the cabinets while everything is open. I’d rather do that work early rather than “finish the van” and then realize I buried something important. Build It So You Can Fix It Even good plumbing needs attention. You’ll change things. You’ll add something. A fitting will eventually need service. I plan for that. For connections, I’ve used PEX with quick disconnects instead of crimp-on connections because it makes modifications and repairs much more realistic. If a repair requires cutting everything apart, people avoid fixing things until they become bigger problems. I’ve also used an accumulator tank with the pump because it helps water delivery feel smoother and less chattery. Tanks and Plumbing Layout One tank, or split by side, depending on the footprint Tank layout is partly about your needs and partly about your floor plan. If the shower and sink are on opposite sides, I’ve split tanks by side so the system stays clean. In one example, that looks like one tank for the shower side and one for the sink side. It keeps lines shorter and layout more intuitive. I’ve also used ball valves and quick attachments so draining and filling is practical. If someone is dispersed camping, they can drain easily. If they’re somewhere structured, they can hook up and fill cleanly. Fresh water sizing This is how I’ve commonly sized fresh water based on real use: If the van has a shower, I’ve typically run around a 30-gallon fresh tank. If it’s sink-only, I’ve used smaller tanks – around the low-20s gallon range. The point is not a perfect number. The point is matching capacity to how the van is actually used. Water Heaters There are a lot of options for water heaters and, again, it depends on how you will actually use your van. People tend to love having large water heaters. If you need that, Vanlife Outfitters sells some great options. Personally, I prefer smaller water heaters with a water-efficient shower head, but that’s my personal preference. I’ve seen tankless units used in camper vans, but I haven’t installed them myself. Exhaust heat and venting are real constraints in a small space, and I’m not interested in creating problems to solve problems. They can work, but I never thought they were worth it. Showers That Actually Work in a Van A shower can look good on paper and still feel terrible in real life. I’ve used showers that felt too tight, where you’re basically stepping in and out to wash different parts of your body. That’s one reason I’ve liked shower setups that create more usable space while you’re actually using them. One of the roomiest showers I’ve ever had was a fold-down shower with a curtain. The curtain matters. Curtains give you space to move and don’t box you in the way some doors do. Slider doors especially can make a shower feel smaller than it already is. The takeaway is simple. If you’re going to give up space for a shower, make sure it’s a shower you’ll actually use comfortably. Toilets in Tight Footprints Sometimes you have to compromise on “ideal” to make a camper workable for you. In smaller vans, bathroom privacy can be hard to achieve the way you might want. I’ve done layouts where the shower is built into a cabinet and the toilet slides out when needed because there wasn’t room for a bigger, more private setup in that footprint. I’m not saying everyone has to make that tradeoff. I’m saying it can be a realistic compromise when space is limited and the priority is still having an indoor shower and a workable bathroom routine. The point is to be honest about what your footprint can support and choose a bathroom approach you’ll actually use, not just one that looks good on paper. What Comes Next Once plumbing is planned around real usage and built with serviceability in mind, the next step is making sure the rest of your systems follow the same logic – clean layout, logical grouping, and access for future changes. That mindset carries into electrical and everything else you build into the garage space. Frequently Asked Questions About Van Plumbing 1. How do I start planning my camper van plumbing? Start by deciding if you’re building for a shower or just a sink. A shower changes everything – fresh water capacity, gray tank planning, hot water needs, and how much you care about fast drains. 2. What drain size should I use for a camper van sink and shower? I plumb drains like a house because I can’t stand slow drains or standing in water. I use 1½-inch plumbing so sinks and showers drain fast and feel normal, instead of RV plumbing kits that use smaller sizes. 3. Are RV drain kits okay for a camper van build? A lot of people use them, but they’re usually small and don’t drain very fast. If you’re running a real kitchen sink and faucet with decent pressure, those small drain setups can back up quickly. 4. How much fresh water do I need in a camper van? My rule of thumb: about 30 gallons if the van has a shower. If it’s sink-only, I’ve used smaller tanks that are more in the 22–24 gallon range. 5. How do I route camper van plumbing if my shower and sink are on opposite sides? If the sink and shower are on opposite sides, I’ve split the system by side to keep routing clean. I’ll usually put more capacity on the shower side and less on the sink side (for example, 20 gallons shower side and 16 gallons sink side). 6. What plumbing fittings make a camper van easier to service later? I’ve used PEX with quick disconnects instead of crimp-only setups. If you ever need to modify something or fix a leak, you can undo connections cleanly instead of cutting everything apart. 7. How big of a water heater do I need in a camper van? In my experience, people often don’t need as much as they think. I’ve used a 1.5-gallon water heater with a water-efficient shower head and taken 10-minute showers without running out of hot water, but 4- or 6-gallon heaters are more common and might be a safer bet for most. 8. Should I install a propane tankless water heater in a camper van? I have seen tankless units used as outdoor shower setups mounted at the rear door, but I haven’t installed tankless water heaters inside a van because of exhaust heat and venting concerns.I always felt like they added more complexity than is worthwhile. 9. How do I build a camper van shower that doesn’t feel cramped? A standard shower pan can feel tight. The roomiest shower I’ve used is a fold-down setup with a curtain, because the curtain gives you space to move and it doesn’t “close you off” the way some doors do. In a 144, I’ve also done a layout where the shower is built into a cabinet and the toilet slides out when needed because space is limited.
Learn more