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Layout Design: Start With the Bed and Build Everything Else Around It
By Clayton Houser – Professional van builder (50+ full builds) Most layout mistakes happen because people start with the kitchen, the cabinets, or the “cool idea” – not the thing they’ll use every night. Clayton starts with the bed, then locks in bed height and the shower/bathroom space claim so the rest of the layout falls into place without painful compromises later. This is the fourth article in Clayton's Van Build series - you can view the series homepage here. When I design a van layout, I always start with the bed. Not the kitchen.Not the electrical cabinet.Not the shower. The bed. I’ve built more than 50 vans, and every time I’ve tried to design around something else first, it caused problems later. The bed is the one thing you will use every single day. It dictates how much storage you have, how you move through the van, and how comfortable the build is long-term. If the bed works, the rest of the layout usually falls into place. Why the Bed Comes First The bed anchors the entire van. Once it’s set, you’ve defined: How much garage space you have Where your plumbing and electrical can live How much open floor area remains Whether the van feels cramped or livable Many layout mistakes I see come from trying to squeeze the bed in after everything else has already been planned. I’ve had customers come to me with detailed drawings of kitchens and seating areas, only to realize later that the sleeping setup either didn’t fit or wasn’t practical for how they actually used the van. That’s why I always start with one question: How do you want to sleep – every night, not just on paper? Platform Beds vs. Convertible Beds (My Strong Opinion) Early on, I built vans with dinette-style beds, pull-out frames, fold-down legs, and multi-cushion setups. They look great in photos. They check a lot of boxes on Instagram. In real life, they get old fast. Setting up a bed every night means: Rearranging cushions Clearing surfaces Rebuilding the same thing over and over After doing that myself and watching customers do the same, I stopped recommending it. Almost every van I’ve built after that used a fixed platform bed. Why? It’s always ready It’s structurally simple It creates consistent storage underneath It removes friction from daily life A lot of people think they need a convertible bed because they imagine they need tons of room for entertaining inside the van – sitting around, sipping wine, hanging out. In reality, most people are: Boondocking Camping remotely Staying in campgrounds And therefore spend as much time outside as they can Most people don’t need a living room inside a van. You need a place to sleep well and live efficiently. Use the outdoors for your living room and hosting space – use the inside of your van for sleeping, storing, and traveling. Bed Height Drives Everything Below It Once you commit to your type of bed, the next critical decision is height. Bed height determines: What you can store underneath Whether bikes fit inside Where tanks, batteries, and systems go And also, whether you’re going to hit your head every morning when you sit up For example: If you’re storing mountain bikes inside, you’re usually looking at around 36 inches of clearance That may mean raising the bed higher than originally planned Which then affects headroom and cabinet placement I’ve built vans where: Two bikes consumed nearly half the van The bed had to be higher to accommodate fork mounts The entire layout shifted because of that single decision This is why purpose matters. Storage needs aren’t abstract – they physically shape the van. Check out our favorite bed/garage system. Do the Headroom Math Early (The Floor Counts Too) When you are setting bed height, I recommend doing the headroom math early. People focus on the bed platform and forget the floor stack-up. A small change in floor thickness can affect how the van feels every day, especially if you are tall or you want to sit up comfortably in bed. A simple example is subfloor thickness. Using ⅝” plywood gives you plenty of strength with less height and weight than ¾”. If you add insulation under the floor, remember that some products may seem thicker before installation, but they compress once the subfloor goes down. The main point is to treat floor thickness as part of the layout, not an afterthought (because it affects everything above it). This is one of the easiest ways to avoid a layout that feels cramped later. Showers and Toilets Come Right After the Bed Once the bed decision is made, I go straight to the shower and bathroom. In my experience, the bed comes first and the shower is second – those two decisions shape the whole layout more than everything else. For me, a shower has ended up being a must-have. I like to shower, and I like the privacy of using the bathroom in the bathroom. I’ve tried a “no shower” setup, assuming I’d use gyms or campground showers, but I never did – and I never found campground showers I actually wanted to use. I’ve also tried an outdoor shower, and where I camped it was usually either a privacy issue or it turned into more of a mess than it was worth. I realize this is personal, but after trying life without one, I’ve learned I’m happiest with an indoor shower and some real bathroom privacy. Once I know where the bed is going, I build forward or build back depending on that bed location. Shower comes next – I’ll build the shower pan and place it where it fits in the layout as I’m building. If you want an indoor shower but you’re tight on space, I’ve found there are ways to make it workable without giving up the whole van. The roomiest shower I’ve ever had was a fold-down shower with a curtain, and it didn’t take up hardly any space. In smaller vans, I’d build the shower into a cabinet and then have to use a toilet that slid out from underneath the sink because there just wasn’t room for a more private setup in that footprint. After I’ve locked in the bed and the shower and bathroom, I shift to the garage area under the bed and start thinking through systems and storage. Think Garage Next, Not Cabinets Most people underestimate how much space they need in the “garage” (the space under the bed, in the back of the van). Under the bed is where I and others typically house: Electrical systems (on one side) Plumbing and tanks (on the other side) Gear, tools, or bikes In many builds, the only permanent cabinetry I installed lived over the wheel wells. Everything else was modular or removable. That approach keeps the van flexible and makes future changes easier. If you fill the van with fixed cabinets too early, you lose the ability to adapt. Design for Living Outside the Van Once the bed and garage are figured out, the next thing I always try to reset for people is this idea that everything needs to happen inside the van. Most daily life happens in your home – but most vanlife happens outside. People picture sitting inside their vans with friends, drinking wine, playing cards, and hanging out for hours. In reality, when you’re at a campsite or boondocking, there often aren’t other people around – and even when there are, you’re usually hanging out outside. By the fire. By the river. Under an awning. This realization changes layouts fast. When customers rented a van or walked through builds at a van show, they started to see it. Chairs, tables, grills, and even cooking setups didn’t need to live inside permanently. Once you assume outdoor living is the default, you stop trying to cram everything into the van. Designing with the outside in mind: Frees up interior space Reduces clutter Makes the van feel calmer and more functional Remember to leave no trace The van doesn’t need to do everything. It just needs to support how you actually live. I like to think of my vans as comfy tents more than complete houses. Be Realistic About Seating and Hosting Seating is one of the most overthought parts of most van builds. A lot of people want seating for six inside a 144 van. Even if you manage to fit it, it’s cramped, loud, and not very comfortable. Multiple conversations at once don’t work well in a small metal box. What usually makes more sense is keeping interior seating simple and flexible. Swivel seats are a great example. Swiveling the factory driver and passenger seats instantly creates usable seating without building bulky benches or sacrificing floor space. For most people, that’s plenty. There’s also an important difference between seating for driving and seating for hanging out. If people are riding in the van, those seats need to be properly mounted to the van’s frame – not just attached to L-track. That alone limits how creative interior seating can be. In practice: Interior seating gets used less than people expect Hosting mostly happens outside Having fewer seats usually means a better layout Design for how many people will actually be inside at the same time, most of the time – not how many you imagine hosting. Simplify Cooking and Make Cleaning Easy Kitchens are another area where people tend to overbuild. I’ve seen a lot of vans with four-burner stoves, microwaves, induction cooktops, and appliances people didn’t even use at home. And many of them barely cooked in their vans. What matters far more than appliances is cleanup and usability. That’s why I almost always used a full-size sink in my builds (often farmhouse-style, but those are a bit trickier to install). Tiny sinks might look good in pictures, but they make daily life harder in my opinion. A big sink makes everything easier – washing dishes, cleaning up, filling bottles, rinsing gear, and even just washing your hands. Plus, great big sinks are amazing for storing bags of groceries you just picked up at the store. And I’ve seen many sinks that have a built-in cover that adds to a van’s counter space. Portable setups usually worked better for cooking. I’ve never put them in my vans, but butane or propane cooktops can be stored in a drawer and used on the counter or outside, giving you flexibility without permanently eating up counter space. You don’t need a dedicated cutout for every appliance. I don’t think that most people should want a house kitchen in a van. They should focus on: Counter space Easy cleanup Fewer things to work around If storage and cleaning are easy, everything else feels easier too. Modular Layouts Solve Real-World Problems A lot of my customers didn’t want a van that only did one thing. Some needed to: Camp on weekends Haul dirt bikes Move cargo like tools and wood Use the van as a daily driver or work vehicle For those builds, I used: L-track-mounted furniture Aluminum framing Plug-in electrical connections Beds could be broken down. Galleys could be removed. In some cases, the entire van could be reconfigured in about 30 minutes. That flexibility always started with the bed design. If the bed was simple and well-placed, everything else could move around it. Tape It Out and Act It Out One thing I always encouraged customers to do was physically simulate the layout. Before building anything: Tape the bed footprint on the van floor Pretend to climb in and out Sit where you think seating will be Imagine cooking, changing clothes, grabbing gear I also strongly recommended: Renting a van Visiting van shows Laying in beds Acting like it’s your van About a third of people who did this completely changed their layout – many often switching from a convertible bed to a platform bed. You learn more in one night sleeping in a van than weeks of planning on a screen. Don’t Design for the Internet This is where a lot of layouts go wrong. People design for: Photos Videos Social media What looks good Instead of: How they actually live I’ve seen vans packed with seating that never gets used, oversized kitchens for people who don’t cook, and elaborate bed systems that become daily annoyances. A good layout isn’t impressive – it’s invisible. It works without you thinking about it. Final Thought on Layout If I had to boil all of this down to one rule, it would be this: If the bed works, the van works. Start there.Build around it.Keep it simple. Everything else – electrical, plumbing, storage, finishes – becomes easier once the sleeping setup is right. Frequently Asked Questions About Camper Van Layout Design What is the best camper van layout for a DIY build? There isn’t a single “best” layout for everyone. The best layout is the one that matches how you actually plan to use the van. In my experience, the most reliable layouts start with a fixed platform bed and build everything else around that. Once the bed works, storage, systems, and daily movement through the van tend to fall into place. Should I choose a platform bed or a convertible bed in my camper van? After building and living with both, I strongly prefer a fixed platform bed. Convertible beds look flexible on paper, but setting them up every night gets old quickly. A platform bed is always ready, simpler to build, and creates consistent storage underneath. In my experience, most builders who try both end up switching to a platform bed. How high should a camper van bed be? Bed height depends on what you need to store underneath it. If you’re carrying large items like mountain bikes, you may need roughly 36 inches of clearance. If you’re mostly storing systems and gear, you may be able to go lower. The key is deciding what must live under the bed before locking in the height. How does the bed affect the rest of the camper van layout? The bed determines: How much garage space you have Where electrical and plumbing systems can be installed How much open floor space remains Whether the van feels livable or cramped That’s why I always design the bed first. Everything else depends on it. Is a fixed bed bad for entertaining or seating in a camper van? Most people overestimate how much they’ll entertain inside a van. In reality, you spend most of your time outside – especially when camping at a site or boondocking. Designing a van around interior seating often sacrifices comfort and storage for something that rarely gets used. Can I still have a modular layout with a platform bed in my camper van? Yes. Many of the vans I built used fixed beds with modular components underneath or in front of them. Using L-track, removable furniture, and plug-in systems allows you to keep flexibility without rebuilding your bed every night. Should I design my camper van layout before seeing one in person? No. I always recommend renting a van or, at least, visiting a van show before finalizing a layout. Lay in the bed. Pretend to cook. Move through the space. A lot of people change their layout after just one night in a van – especially their bed choice. What’s the biggest mistake people make with camper van layouts? Designing for photos instead of daily life. A good layout doesn’t look impressive – it works quietly in the background. If you don’t think about it while using the van, that usually means it’s done right. Can I change my camper van layout later if I get it wrong? You can, but it’s much easier if you design with flexibility from the start. Simple bed designs, modular components, and leaving room for future changes all make adjustments less painful down the road. What should I design first when planning a camper van layout? Start with how you sleep. Once the bed is right, everything else – storage, systems, and flow – becomes easier to design. Should I design my camper van mainly for indoor living? In practice, most vanlife happens outside the van. People often expect to spend a lot of time inside, but once they’re actually traveling, they find themselves cooking, relaxing, and spending time outdoors. Designing the interior with that reality in mind helps avoid overcrowding the space and leads to simpler, more functional layouts. What should I plan to use outside instead of inside the camper van? Things like chairs, tables, and even cooking setups often work better outside. Planning for outdoor living frees up interior space and keeps the van focused on sleeping, storage, and daily essentials. How much seating do I actually need inside my camper van? Most builders need far less seating than they initially think. For many vans, swivel seats on the driver and passenger side provide enough interior seating without sacrificing space or adding complexity. Limiting seating to only what you will actually need helps save space for storage, large counters, more elbow room, etc. Are swivel seats worth it in a camper van build? Yes. Swivel seats are a good example of seating that makes sense in many builds. Swiveling the factory driver and passenger seats creates usable interior seating without building bulky benches or giving up floor space. For a lot of people, that ends up being enough. Do I need a built-in stove or cooktop in my camper van? Not necessarily. Many people find portable propane or butane cooktops more flexible. They can be stored away when not in use and often work just as well inside or outside the van. What matters more in a camper van kitchen: appliances or cleanup space? From a real-use standpoint, cleanup tends to matter more than having multiple built-in appliances. Many builders focus on stoves or cooktops, but day-to-day comfort often comes down to having enough counter space and an easy way to wash dishes, clean up spills, and rinse gear. Prioritizing cleanup makes the kitchen feel more usable, even if the cooking setup stays simple.
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Choosing the Right Base Van: Start With How You’ll Actually Use It
By Clayton Houser – Professional van builder (50+ full builds) Choosing the right base van isn’t about what’s “best” – it’s about the constraints you can’t change later. Clayton breaks down the tradeoffs that matter most, so you pick a platform that fits how you’ll actually travel and live. This is the third article in Clayton's Van Build series - you can view the series homepage here. One of the first decisions people want to make when planning a van build is choosing the base vehicle. They usually ask it like this:“Which van is best?” After building a whole lot of vans and talking with hundreds of builders, I don’t think that’s the right way to approach it. There is no single best van. There are only tradeoffs — and those tradeoffs matter differently depending on how you plan to use the van. If you choose a base van before you’re clear on purpose, you’ll end up designing around limitations instead of intentions. Purpose Comes First (Again) Before comparing any specific models, you need to revisit the same questions I mentioned in my last post, which should guide the rest of your build: Are you living in the van full-time or using it on weekends? Are you staying in campgrounds or traveling off-grid? What climates are you traveling through? How many people are riding and sleeping? How much gear needs to live inside the van? Your base van choice affects interior space, ride quality, maintenance realities, and how forgiving the build process will be. None of those factors matter on their own — they matter in relation to how you’ll actually use the van. Many People Choose a Van Too Early One common mistake I see is people locking in a van before they understand what they’re building toward. They fall in love with a brand, a look, or a build they saw online. Then they try to force a layout or system into a platform that doesn’t support it easily. When that happens, everything becomes harder: Layouts feel cramped Weight becomes an issue Systems get complicated Maintenance becomes stressful Choosing a base van should be a result of planning, not the starting point. Dimensions Matter More Than the Logo When people focus only on a brand, they often overlook the things that actually affect daily life inside the van. Two dimensions matter more than almost anything else: Roof height Body length If you’re spending time inside the van — especially living full-time — standing height matters. Bending over every day adds friction you don’t notice at first but feel later. Body length affects: How the interior can be laid out How much separation you can have between living zones How easy the van is to park and maneuver Longer vans give you more flexibility inside. Shorter vans are easier to drive and park. Neither is better — they just serve different priorities. Weight Is a Constraint You Can’t Ignore Every van has limits. Batteries, water, cabinetry, appliances, and gear all add up faster than people expect. If weight isn’t considered early, the result can often be: Poor handling Sagging suspension Increased wear on components A van that feels unstable on the road This is one reason I’m cautious about overbuilt furniture and unnecessary materials. Strength matters, but so does restraint. Your base van sets the ceiling. Everything you add has to live within it. Serviceability Is Part of the Build Another factor people underestimate is where and how the van will be serviced. Some vans are easier to get worked on in small towns. Others rely more on dealerships and specialized diagnostics. That difference matters more once you’re traveling regularly. If the van is your home, downtime isn’t just inconvenient — it can end a trip. This doesn’t mean one approach is right or wrong. It means service access should be part of the decision, not an afterthought. New vs Used: Condition Over Numbers Mileage gets a lot of attention when people shop for vans, but it’s not the whole story. What matters just as much: Maintenance history Signs of hard commercial use Rust or corrosion Poorly done previous modifications I’ve seen low-mileage vans with serious issues and higher-mileage vans that were clearly cared for. Condition tells you more than the odometer. If you’re buying used, plan time to inspect and address issues before starting a build. Rushing this step usually creates problems later. Common Base-Van Mistakes A few patterns show up repeatedly: Choosing a van based on aesthetics instead of use Ignoring interior dimensions until layout design starts Underestimating weight early in the build Not thinking through service realities Locking in a platform before defining purpose None of these mistakes are fatal, but they all make the build harder than it needs to be. How to Make the Decision Without Overthinking It You don’t need to optimize this decision perfectly. You need to make it intentionally. If you can answer these questions, you’re in a good place: Does this van support my intended layout? Can it handle the weight of my planned systems? Am I comfortable with how it will be serviced? Does it fit where and how I plan to travel? If the answer is yes, it’s probably a workable platform. What Comes Next Once the base van is chosen, the build becomes real. The next step is designing the layout — and for me, that always starts with the bed. That decision anchors everything else. Vanlife Outfitters Note: How the Base Van Platform Affects Your Build Clayton’s guidance focuses on purpose first. Once that purpose is clear, the base van becomes a structural constraint that shapes layout options, system capacity, and long-term usability. This section provides high-level context on the three most common platforms used by DIY van builders. It is not a recommendation or ranking — it is meant to help you understand how platform differences influence build decisions. Mercedes-Benz Sprinter The Sprinter is often chosen when a build priority is either a desire for four-wheel drive or maximum interior runway, with high-roof options and longer body lengths that support more expansive layouts and more configuration flexibility. Sprinter is also a common pick because it’s a Mercedes – some builders want more premium feel, comfort, and tech, and they are willing to pay more for it. As you may expect, Sprinter vans are significantly more expensive than Ford or Dodge vans. On the other hand, Sprinters usually have diesel engines, which come with both pros and cons – and they can be harder to service on the road in the U.S. because the authorized network is much smaller. Ford and Dodge have thousands of dealerships across the U.S., while Mercedes-Benz Vans only has hundreds. A practical way to frame the Sprinter choice is: I want maximum standing room and a longer layout runway, I like the premium Mercedes experience, and I’m comfortable planning around a platform that can be more demanding to own long term. Here is a link to Sprinter details, and here is a link to find MB Van dealers. Key implications Strong high-roof and longer-length options for larger layout Often perceived as more premium inside (comfort/tech/overall feel), but typically costs more than rivals Diesel is common in Sprinter configurations (plan for diesel-focused maintenance and operating considerations) Fewer branded service points vs Ford/Ram can make “service on the road” require more planning Ford Transit The Transit is often chosen by builders who want available AWD, a large OEM and aftermarket support ecosystem, and broad parts and service access for long-term travel. From a build standpoint, the Transit is not the “square” option. Its interior surfaces curve in multiple areas, which can make wall finishing and cabinetry fit-up more work than boxier platforms like the ProMaster. A practical way to frame the Transit choice is: I want AWD capability and widespread service support, without stepping into the complexity and ownership profile that some builders associate with Sprinters (not a universal rule, but a common decision pattern.) Here is a link to Transit details, and here is a link to find Ford Pro dealers. Key implications Available Intelligent AWD for traction-focused builds Strong parts/service network for regular or remote travel More interior curvature means more templating and fit work than “square” vans Ram ProMaster The ProMaster is often chosen when the build priority is usable interior space and “boxy” interior. Compared with the Sprinter and Transit, it has squarer interior walls and more usable width, which can make layout planning and cabinetry more straightforward for many DIY builders. In addition, it is the only one of the big three van models that is wide enough for a full-length bed running “east-west” without adding flares. It’s also a front-wheel-drive platform, and that drivetrain layout is commonly linked to the ProMaster’s lower load floor (easier step-in and loading) compared with the other two. And it is usually the cheapest of the three vans. A practical way to frame the ProMaster choice is: I want the most build-friendly interior geometry (wide, square walls, low step-in), and I’m comfortable giving up AWD capability in exchange for a lower price and the packaging benefits of a FWD platform. Here is a link to ProMaster details, and here is a link to find Ram dealers. Key implications Generally viewed as the widest and most “square” interior of the big three (often simpler for cabinetry and certain layouts). Front-wheel drive supports a lower load floor (daily entry and loading convenience). Large dealer footprint in the U.S. (roughly ~2.4K Ram locations, depending on dataset and timing), which can make service access easier than smaller networks. Platform Choice in Context No platform is universally “better.” Each introduces constraints that shape design decisions, system sizing, and long-term adaptability. The right choice depends on how the van is intended to be used – now and in the future. Understanding these differences early helps ensure that later build decisions align with the purpose defined at the start. Frequently Asked Questions About Choosing a Base Van How do interior dimensions compare between Sprinter, Transit, and ProMaster vans? Interior dimensions vary widely by configuration and roof height, but here are typical 2025 figures: Mercedes-Benz Sprinter (High Roof): Interior standing height ~79.1 inches; max floor width ~70 inches; cargo volume up to ~533 cubic feet on extended wheelbases. Ford Transit (High Roof): Interior standing height ~81.5 inches on some high-roof/long configurations; interior width around ~77.0 inches. Ram ProMaster (High Roof): Interior cargo width up to ~75.6 inches and max interior width up to ~75.6 inches. These dimensions affect how you can lay out beds, appliances, and storage inside the van. Which van offers the most interior width for camper conversions? In general: Ford Transit interior width can reach about 77.0 inches, providing slightly more width than other platforms. Ram ProMaster offers up to about 75.6 inches of interior width. Mercedes Sprinter interior width tends to be narrower, typically around 70–70.4 inches at floor level. Wider interiors can make layout planning — especially bed orientation and side-to-side storage — more flexible. Do roof heights differ significantly between cargo vans? Yes, and roof height significantly influences stand-up space: Ford Transit high-roof models can provide an interior height of about 81.5 inches, which is among the tallest in the class. And we know some shorter vanlifers who can even stand up tall in the Transit’s mid-roof models. Mercedes-Benz Sprinter high-roof interior height is typically around 79.1 inches. Ram ProMaster also has high-roof options, with cargo height often around 76 inches, though exact figures vary by model. They even have a new Super High Roof option you may want to consider. Remember to take your floor plans into account as you plan for the interior height of your build. How do payload capacities compare among Sprinter, Transit, and ProMaster? Payload capacity (the amount of weight a van can carry safely) varies by trim and configuration, but manufacturers report maximum figures such as: Ram ProMaster: up to over 4,800 pounds maximum payload on some models. Ford Transit: payloads can range widely; some Transits are rated around 3,500 pounds or more depending on options. Mercedes Sprinter: specific payloads vary across trims, with heavier-duty versions designed to carry larger loads (often higher than light-duty competitors). Higher payload can give more margin for batteries, water, gear, and furniture without overloading. Does wheelbase length make a noticeable difference in build space? Yes. Longer wheelbase vans offer more interior length for beds, cabinets, and systems: Mercedes Sprinters most often have wheelbases of 144” and 170”. Ford Transits are typically 130” and 148”. Ram ProMasters are usually 136” and 159”. Although greater interior length improves layout flexibility, it does so with trade-offs like ease of parking and maneuverability. Are there any other dimensional differences that affect camper van builds? Beyond width and height, differences include: Cargo length: Longer vans like extended Transits and Sprinters provide more bed and storage space. Load floor height: Vans like the ProMaster often have lower load floors which can make entering/exiting and loading gear easier. Turning radius and overall exterior dimensions: These affect daily drivability, though they are less directly tied to interior layout.
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Start With Purpose: Build the Van You’ll Actually Use
By Clayton Houser – Professional van builder (50+ full builds) If you want to build a camper van you’ll actually love using, start here. Clayton shows how a few purpose questions – weekend vs full-time, campgrounds vs boondocking, climate, people, and gear – shape every decision that follows (and prevent expensive regret later). This is the second article in Clayton's Van Build series - you can view the series homepage here. Before you buy tools, before you design cabinets, before you cut a single hole in the van, you need to answer one important question: Why are you building this van? I’ve worked on more than a hundred vans professionally, including over 50 complete builds. And if there’s one pattern I’ve seen over and over, it’s that when builders skip this step, they end up rebuilding things later – layouts, systems, even entire interiors. When builders get this step right, everything downstream gets easier. Most People Think They Know What They Want (Until They Actually Use a Van) A lot of people come into a build having done months of research. They’ve watched videos, saved layouts, and followed builds online. On paper, they’re confident. But many of them haven’t actually spent time living in a van. When I was building vans for customers, I’d always encourage them to rent one for a weekend or spend real time at a van show. And about a third of the time, people would come back and say, “I want to change everything.” That’s not because they did anything wrong. It’s because real use exposes assumptions. People imagine hosting dinner parties inside a van. Then they spend a weekend in one and realize most of their time is spent outside. Or they imagine convertible beds and elaborate seating. Then they realize setting up and breaking down a bed every day gets old fast. You can research forever. But nothing replaces using a van. You’ll learn more in two days on the road than weeks of planning. Purpose Isn’t Abstract – It’s Practical When I talk about “purpose,” I’m not talking about something philosophical. I’m talking about how the van will actually be used. These are the questions I always come back to: Will this be used full-time or mostly on weekends? Are you staying in campgrounds or boondocking? What climates are you traveling in? How many people are riding and sleeping? What gear needs to live or travel inside the van? Your answers drive everything else – layout, power, water, heating, storage, even the base van itself. If you don’t answer them honestly, you’ll design for a lifestyle you don’t actually live. The Big Purpose Categories (And What They Change) Most builds fall into one of a few broad categories. There’s some overlap, but the differences matter. Full-Time Living If you’ll be living in the van full-time, comfort and capacity matter more than anything. These builds often benefit from: A fixed platform bed A real kitchen setup Enough power to run daily life without stress A heater, regardless of climate More storage than you think you need Full-time builds tend to push battery capacity higher. People often underestimate how much power they’ll actually use once they’re living in the space every day. Weekend Campground Use If you’re mostly traveling on weekends and staying at campgrounds, the requirements are different. You can rely more on shore power. You don’t need massive water storage. You might not need a full bathroom. This is where people often overbuild. If you’re plugging in most nights, you don’t need to carry the same systems as someone living off-grid for weeks – or even days – at a time. Adventure and Gear-Focused Builds If your vanlife will be about bikes, skis, boards, or work gear, that needs to be part of the purpose from the beginning. That usually means: Designing adventure storage first, not last Thinking about modular furniture Making sure gear can live inside securely Accepting tradeoffs in living space I’ve built plenty of vans where the layout could change depending on whether bikes were loaded or not. That flexibility only works if you plan for it early. Cold Weather and Four-Season Travel If you’re traveling in cold climates, purpose matters even more. Cold weather affects: Plumbing placement Heating requirements Insulation decisions Battery capacity People often think they’ll “just avoid cold weather.” In reality, nights get cold even in places like Arizona. A heater ends up being one of the most universally useful systems you can install. Real Life Changes the Plan (And That’s Normal) Something I tell people often is that your purpose will probably evolve. Someone who starts as a weekend traveler might decide to go full-time later. Someone who stays in campgrounds might start boondocking more. Someone who never thought they’d travel in winter ends up chasing snow. Because of that, I like to think in terms of a 70/30 approach. Build about 70 percent for how you know you’ll use the van, and leave 30 percent of flexibility for the future. That doesn’t mean overbuilding everything. It means future-proofing where it matters – wiring paths, access panels, structural mounting points – so changes later don’t require tearing the van apart. Common Purpose Mistakes I See After seeing hundreds of builds, a few mistakes come up repeatedly. Designing for Social Media Instead of Daily Life Clean layouts look great in photos. But real life involves cooking, sleeping, changing clothes, and storing gear. The best layouts fit habits, not hashtags. Overestimating How Much Happens Inside Most people don’t spend all day inside their van. They cook outside. They hang out outside. The interior should support daily routines, not pretend it’s a living room. Locking in Layout Too Early People sometimes finalize layouts before they’ve clarified how they’ll actually use the van. Once cabinets go in, changes get expensive and time-consuming. Purpose should drive layout – not the other way around. The One Thing I Recommend Almost Everyone Do If you take only one piece of advice from this, it’s this: Use a van before you build one. Rent one. Borrow one. Spend a day at a van show walking through different layouts. Lie on the beds. Pretend to cook. Move around like it’s yours. I’ve watched people completely change their plans after a single weekend. That’s not failure – that’s information. Here is a link to an outstanding van festival partner of ours, where you can go see 100s of vans in a single day. There are many others like it - find one that works for you and go check it out. Defining Your Purpose in Simple Terms You don’t need a long document. You just need clarity. Try writing one sentence: “I’m building a van for [number of] people, used mostly for [1-2 activities & duration], in [primary] climates, typically staying in [type of environment].” Here are a few potential examples: I’m building a van for 2 people, used mostly for weekend getaways, in warmer climates, typically staying in campgrounds near beaches. I’m building a van for 2-4 people, used mostly for weeklong mountain climbing trips, in cool to cold climates, typically staying in remote areas. If you can’t fill in this sentence confidently, you’re not ready to design the build yet. Once you can, everything else gets easier. Why This Step Saves Time and Money When purpose is clear: Layout decisions make sense System sizing becomes obvious You avoid redoing work later The build process feels calmer When the purpose is vague, every decision feels heavy. You second-guess everything. You chase edge cases you’ll never actually encounter. Clarity early makes the entire build smoother. What Comes Next Once you’ve defined your purpose, the next step is turning that into a layout that supports daily life. That’s where decisions like bed style, kitchen placement, and storage start to matter. That’s what I’ll cover next. Frequently Asked Questions About Planning a Camper Van Build What does “start with purpose” mean when building a camper van? Starting with purpose means clearly defining how you will actually use the van before making design or purchasing decisions. That includes how often you’ll travel, where you’ll camp, how many people will sleep inside, and whether you’ll rely on hookups or live off-grid (and for how long). Those answers should guide every major decision that follows. Why is purpose more important than camper van layout or gear? Layout and gear choices only make sense once you understand your purpose. Without that clarity, it’s easy to build a van that looks good but doesn’t work well day to day. Purpose keeps you from overbuilding, overspending, or designing for situations that rarely happen. How do I figure out my camper van’s purpose if I’m new to vanlife? The fastest way is to experience vanlife firsthand. Renting or borrowing a van for a weekend often teaches more than months of planning. Pay attention to what you actually use, what you don’t, and what feels inconvenient — those insights should shape your build. Should I design my van for full-time living or weekend trips? That depends entirely on how you plan to use it. A full-time van usually needs more robust systems, storage, and comfort features. A weekend or part-time van can stay simpler and more flexible. Trying to build one van to do everything often leads to compromises that don’t fully satisfy either use case. What’s the most common mistake people make when planning a van build? Designing for an imagined lifestyle instead of real habits. Many people plan for entertaining, elaborate cooking, or perfect conditions that rarely happen. Starting with purpose helps avoid building features that look good on paper but don’t add value in daily use. Can my van’s purpose change over time? Yes, and it often does. That’s why starting with a clear initial purpose — and designing with some flexibility — matters. A well-planned van can adapt as travel styles, work situations, or priorities change. For example, I strongly recommend that you build your electrical system so that it can accommodate future expansion (e.g., more batteries, bigger cables). That’s why I’ve always installed extra wires in my van builds because I want them to be upgradable, either for the current or a future owner. Do I need to have every detail figured out before I start building? No. You don’t need every detail finalized, but you do need a clear direction. Knowing your primary use case helps you make better decisions as questions come up during the build, even if some details evolve along the way. Building in flexibility also gives you time to change your mind, either now or in the future. How does starting with purpose save time and money? Purpose prevents unnecessary complexity. When you know how the van will be used, you’re less likely to buy gear you don’t need, redesign layouts mid-build, or undo work later. Clear intent leads to fewer mistakes and a smoother build process. That’s why I strongly recommend renting or borrowing a van at least a few times before building one — so you actually know what you want.
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Victron Energy Cables: Explained!
VE.Bus, VE.CAN, VE.Direct, Wakespeed, SeeLevel and more! We hope you’re sitting down to read this blog, because this post covers the super exciting topic of communication cables! Victron Energy currently offers more than 20 different communication cables for their electrical devices, and that doesn’t include even more “cables” that Victron chooses to call “sensors”. But don’t worry, we’re not here to bore you with long descriptions of every single cable available. We’re here to bore you with just a handful of the popular cables needed for camper van electrical systems. Cable-shaming aside, the numerous Victron electrical devices, protocols, and cables that are required for your system can be a confusing topic. And you need to have the correct cables for your system to work properly. So let’s dive in. All of these cables (and more!) are laid out in our camper van electrical system blog posts and corresponding free example wiring diagrams. If those posts plus this blog still doesn’t make it clear, we are always happy to help so please contact us. This guide focuses on Victron Energy system cables – the data and communication cables that let Victron components share information and work together (VE.Bus, VE.CAN, VE.Direct, and related adapters). This guide does not cover battery or inverter power cable sizing (which requires a separate fuse and wire-size approach). Table of Contents Here’s a list of all of the super exciting cables covered in this blog. Victron Cable Top 3 VE.Bus / VE.CAN VE.Direct Battery Extension Other Useful Cables RJ10 Temperature sensor Wakespeed to Victron crossover RV-C to VE.CAN adapter Keep reading for all the gory cable details. But check out this at-a-glance table to whet your cable appetite. Cable type Device it connects to Typical cable quantity VE.Bus Multiplus 1 VE.CAN Lynx Shunt Lynx BMS 1 VE.Direct Orion XS MPPT Charge Controller 1 per device if you have a Cerbo Battery Extension Lynx BMS 1 RJ10 Lynx Distributor 1 (included with Lynx Distributor) Temperature sensor Multiplus 1 (included with Multiplus) Wakespeed to Victron crossover Wakespeed WS500 & Pro 1 RV-C to VE.CAN adapter SeeLevel panel 1 Victron Cable Top 3 Here are the three most-needed cables for Victron equipment in your rig. VE.Bus / VE.CAN Cables are Ethernet-style cables used by higher-power and higher-speed Victron devices such as Multiplus inverter/chargers, Lynx Shunts, and Lynx Smart BMS. Cerbo GX communication centers connect to those high power/speed devices and have both VE.Bus ports and VE.CAN ports, which are connections using different protocols for different devices that confusingly but conveniently happen to share the same cable type. VE.Direct Cables are proprietary cables used by lower-power and lower-cost Victron devices such as Orion XS DC-DC chargers and SmartSolar MPPT Charge Controllers. Typically, VE.Direct cables are used to connect these devices to a Cerbo GX. M8 (Circular) Battery Extension Cables are used to connect Lithium Smart & NG batteries communications to an external Smart BMS. More details about these cables are covered below. And don’t you worry, we’ll touch on a few more important cables too! Most Victron devices have only one type of communication, therefore you only need to understand one cable per device. The main exception is the Cerbo GX communication center, which supports almost all of the communication & cable types in order to function as a center-of-communications. If you have a Cerbo in your system, which is highly recommended, then we suggest auditing your other Victron devices and temporarily ignoring the Cerbo itself. After all, all of those other devices will be connected to the Cerbo, and let’s not further confuse things by double-counting cables. Lastly, if you don’t have a Cerbo GX, then you probably just need one VE.Bus / VE.CAN cable for your Multiplus inverter/charger. Keep reading for funsies, but that may be all you need to know! VE.Bus / VE.CAN Cables Most camper van electrical systems have a Multiplus inverter/charger, and Multiplus devices are VE.Bus products. In addition to Multiplus devices, some standalone BMS devices use VE.Bus. VE.Bus runs the Victron MK2/MK3 protocol, which is a fancy way of saying Victron uses a proprietary, serial communication protocol for their Multiplus & other VE.Bus products. VE.CAN devices typically used in camper vans include Lynx Shunts, Lynx Smart BMS, and certain higher-powered MPPT Charge Controllers. VE.CAN runs a CAN protocol that supports a mix of Victron proprietary and 3rd party “structures”. We’ll talk about some of that 3rd party support a little bit later in Other Useful Cables. Both the VE.Bus and VE.CAN communication ports use the same cable. We offer several of the most popular lengths of VE.Bus / VE.CAN cables in our store. How many VE.Bus / VE.CAN cables do you need? If you do not have a Cerbo in your system, the answer is likely one, which would be the number of Multiplus inverter/charger devices in your rig. You’ll still want one cable to configure and update firmware in your Multiplus even if you don’t use a Cerbo. You may also want to understand Victron dongles in that case. If you do have a Cerbo, then prepare for math. This is not so tough math where the answer is typically one or two. Add up the number of Multiplus inverter/chargers, then add one more if you have a Lynx Shunt or BMS. Even if you have a ton of solar and use a MPPT with VE.CAN, those devices also have VE.Direct ports; you must use one cable or the other (not both together) on those MPPTs, and we find it easiest to stick with VE.Direct for all MPPT Charge Controllers. Our suggestion is to buy a longer cable than you think is necessary. The cost difference between the common cable lengths is negligible. It’s best to coil up any excess cable when you’re dressing your completed system. Don’t short yourself (literally!) and make maintenance or future changes difficult. You can use off-the-shelf Ethernet cables with couplers to extend these cables, but if you do please use high quality CAT6e cables. Your critical Multiplus & BMS information relies on good quality communication, and that means you need good quality cables. Terminators are mini-cables, and they can be confusing too. Those blue things that come in your Cerbo box that look like Ethernet connectors with no wire? That’s the terminators we’re talking about. What do you do with the terminators? Do not use terminators on the VE.Bus. Any unused VE.Bus ports on your Multiplus or on your Cerbo can remain open & unused. Unused VE.CAN ports require terminators. Any unused CAN port on your Lynx Shunt or Lynx Smart BMS needs a terminator. Cerbo GX devices have two “sets” of CAN ports, one labeled VE.CAN and one labeled BMS-CAN. Any unused port in a “set” that is used needs a terminator. Hopefully a picture is worth a thousand words, and the next section makes that clear. BONUS Cerbo GX VE.Bus and VE.CAN Connections: Explained! We know that some of you are drifting off already. Stay frosty! If you’re going to learn about cables, it’s probably pretty important to plug the cables into the right places too. Don’t forget that all of these cables are nicely laid out in our example wiring diagrams too. This blog is focused on the popular communication cables for Victron equipment. Those popular cable locations on the Cerbo are highlighted below. When looking at the front face of the Cerbo, there are six Ethernet-like ports in a row along the back of the device (closest to the mounting surface); these six ports are the VE.Bus and VE.CAN ports (right to left). The purple box shows the two VE.Bus ports. Typically you’ll use one of the two ports for your Multiplus inverter/charger connection, and the remaining one will be empty. The blue boxes show the two “sets” of two CAN ports, titled VE.CAN and BMS-CAN. These are two separate CAN buses that can be configured to use different protocols and speeds. We recommend that your Lynx Shunt or Lynx Smart BMS (and maybe your Wakespeed regulator as part of your secondary alternator system) use the VE.CAN ports. If you have additional CAN devices such as batteries with Victron communications or a SeeLevel Tank Monitoring Kit, those can use the BMS-CAN port. Remember that if you use only one of the two ports in a “set”, the remaining port in that “set” needs a terminator. If you don’t use the VE.CAN ports or the BMS-CAN ports at all, then no worries a terminator isn’t critical. Above the VE.CAN and VE.Bus ports (closest to the pretty blue front cover and away from the mounting surface), there is another row with a bunch of different port types. The red box shows the Cerbo Ethernet port. As in not Ethernet-like but really Ethernet for a connection to a Starlink or additional router. Many customers confuse this port on the top row for a VE.Bus connection. The green boxes show the VE.Direct ports, and those are important for the next type of popular communication cables. VE.Direct Cables Victron devices with VE.Direct communication include the newer Orion XS DC-DC chargers (XS 50 and XS 1400; unfortunately none of the previous generation Smart DC-DC chargers support VE.Direct) and almost every BlueSolar and SmartSolar MPPT Charge Controller (except some very old and low-power versions not typical in camper vans at this point). If you have upgraded from a BMV-712 Smart Battery Monitor to add a Cerbo, you will also benefit from using the VE.Direct port on the monitor. VE.Direct is a proprietary serial interface that uses Victron-specific VE.Direct cables available in many lengths through our store. How many VE.Direct cables do you need? If you do not have a Cerbo in your system, you do not need any VE.Direct cables. If you do have a Cerbo, then prepare for some more math. But this is still fingers-on-one-hand kind of math, so don’t worry. Add up the number of Orion XS DC-DC Chargers (typically one or two), then add the number of MPPT Charge Controllers (typically one or two), and then add one more if you have a BMV-712. If you counted past three, read the next paragraph. You’ll need from zero to three VE.Direct cables in a system. Keep in mind that the Cerbo GX provides three VE.Direct ports (those green ones in the Cerbo pic above). If you have a robust system with more than three VE.Direct devices, you will need to expand your empire by using a VE.Direct to USB Interface Cable for the 4th (and even 5th?) VE.Direct device. The interface cable includes the USB end and the VE.Direct end, so you do not have to add yet another VE.Direct cable. Those additional VE.Direct devices would plug into USB ports on the Cerbo instead. As in the VE.Bus / VE.CAN cables, our suggestion is to buy a longer VE.Direct cable than you think is necessary. It’s not practical to extend VE.Direct cables. It’s best to buy long and coil up any excess cable when you’re dressing your completed system. M8 (Circular) Battery Extension Cables M8 Battery Extension Cables can be used to extend the BMS communication cable pigtails that come attached to Victron Lithium Smart and NG batteries. The pigtails on the batteries are 20 in long, so in most practical camper van electronic system layouts one M8 Battery Extension Cable (pair) is required to connect your battery bank to your BMS. M8 Battery Extension Cables come as a pair, and our store has several Battery Extension Cable length options to choose from. How many M8 Battery Extension Cables do you need? If you do not have a Victron ‘external BMS’ system using Lithium Smart or NG batteries, then you do not need any M8 Battery Extension Cables. If you do have a Victron ‘external BMS’ system using Lithium Smart or NG batteries, then you likely need one M8 Battery Extension Cable (pair). In keeping with our cable length theme, make sure that you select a long enough cable to allow for Manhattan routing and room for maintenance. A little extra coiled up cable is a wise choice. Other Useful Cables Here are four more cables for Victron systems worthy of a quick discussion. 1) The RJ10 cable Yes, Victron calls it the “RJ10 cable” and nothing more, so we’re sticking with that. Every Lynx Distributor comes with a 15 inch, 4-pin cable that is essentially an old telephone cord. (Let’s just assume you’re old enough to understand that reference! If not, ignore.) The RJ10 cable allows a Lynx Shunt or Smart or NG BMS to power the Distributor LEDs and report blown fuse detection. If you don’t have a Lynx Shunt or Smart BMS, then you do not need to use that RJ10 cable. If you really want to see those Lynx Distributor LEDs on without a Lynx Shunt or BMS, then check out the Turning On The LED Lights On The Lynx Distributor hack at the end of this blog. 2) Temperature sensor for Multiplus or Cerbo GX Your Multiplus inverter/charger comes with a temperature sensor (aka cable) that is typically used to measure battery temperature by attaching the ring lug to the negative post. This cable can also be used as an input to a Cerbo GX. If you have Victron Lithium Smart or NG batteries, or if you’re using batteries with Victron communications in conjunction with DVCC, then you do not need to use the temperature sensor. For systems with internal BMS batteries without communication, using the temperature sensor with your Multiplus is a wise approach to prevent damaging your batteries in extreme temperatures. If you misplaced (lost!) the cable that was included with your Multiplus, it is also available in our store. 3) Wakespeed to Victron Crossover Cable If you’re using a secondary alternator system for massive charging power, you’ll likely want to include a Wakespeed to Victron Crossover Cable. This cable supports the CAN communication between your BMS (via the Cerbo) and a 3rd party device, the Wakespeed regulator. Don’t forget that the blue end of the crossover cable plugs into your Victron equipment, and the black end of the crossover plugs into your Wakespeed regulator. A black terminator is also included, and that plugs into the unused CAN port on your Wakespeed. The Wakespeed to Victron Crossover Cable is 4’ long, and the cable can be extended with a high-quality Ethernet cable and coupler. 4) RV-C to VE.CAN Adapter for SeeLevel This SeeLevel Tank Monitoring Kit is a nice addition to systems with a Cerbo GX. This 3rd party kit is actually a nice addition to any system, but you won’t worry about the RV-C to VE.CAN Adapter for SeeLevel cable unless you have a Cerbo! This cable plugs into the back of a Garnet SeeLevel 709-N2K-NLP panel and allows the RV-C protocol to plug into one of the Cerbo CAN ports (either VE.CAN or BMS-CAN, as you’ll need to change the protocol and speed as part of configuration). RV-C uses CAN, so yes you need to use terminators. The terminator for the panel is included as part of the adapter cable, but don’t forget to use the blue terminator in any unused CAN port at your Cerbo. The RV-C to VE.CAN Adapter for SeeLevel is 6’ long, and the cable can be extended with a high-quality Ethernet cable and coupler. Wrap Up - Cable Selection Guide At A Glance Whether you program your Multiplus with a dongle or through your Cerbo GX, you’ll still need a VE.Bus cable. Your device What to buy Have a Multiplus? Add one VE.CAN / VE.Bus cable If you have a Cerbo GX, and we highly recommend that you do, follow this guide: Your device What to buy Have a Lynx Shunt or Lynx BMS? Add one VE.CAN / VE.Bus cable Have a Orion XS 50 or XS 1400 DC-DC Charger? Add one VE.Direct cable for each charger Have a MPPT Charge Controller? Add one VE.Direct cable for each controller Have a Wakespeed WS500? Add one Wakespeed to Victron crossover cable Have a SeeLevel Tank Monitoring Kit? Add one RV-C to VE.CAN adapter But it’s okay if you don’t have a Cerbo. You probably do not require any more communication cables. Frequently Asked Questions 1. How many VE.Direct devices can a Cerbo support? The Cerbo GX allows up to three VE.Direct cables to be plugged in. For additional VE.Direct devices, use a VE.Direct to USB Interface Cable instead. Those additional VE.Direct devices will use USB ports on the Cerbo. 2. Do I need terminators for VE.CAN? Plug terminators into unused CAN ports. Use blue terminators on unused Victron VE.CAN ports. Use black terminators on unused Wakespeed CAN ports. Do not use terminators on unused VE.Bus ports. 3. What is the difference between VE.Bus and VE.CAN? VE.Bus and VE.CAN are both communications protocols, but the protocols use different technologies and are supported by different types of products. Multiplus inverter/chargers are VE.Bus products. Lynx Shunts and BMS use VE.CAN. Both VE.Bus and VE.CAN use the same cables. 4. What is the difference between VE.Bus and VE.Direct? VE.Bus and VE.Direct are both communication protocols, however they use different cables and work on different devices. VE.Bus units are typically high-power devices like Multiplus inverter/chargers. VE.Direct units are typically lower power devices such as DC-DC chargers and MPPT Charge Controllers. 5. Can I extend Victron cables? VE.Bus / VE.CAN cables, a Wakespeed to Victron Crossover Cable, and a RV-C to VE.CAN Adapter for SeeLevel can all be extended using high quality Ethernet cables and couplers. It is not practical to extend VE.Direct cables - buy a longer cable. Additional Resources Victron Cables product information Victron Data Communication white pape Secondary Alternator Example Power System Accurate Tank Monitoring with a Cerbo GX and SeeLeve Free example wiring diagrams
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How to Build a Camper Van (Without Getting Stuck)
By Clayton Houser – Professional van builder (50+ full builds) Clayton Houser has built 50+ full vans and worked on 100+ builds. This overview shares the build philosophy he’s trusted across real vans – what to prioritize first, what to simplify, and how to plan a van that works in real life. If you’re new to van builds, the internet can make this feel impossible. There are too many options, too many opinions, and too many build photos that look great but do not tell you how they actually live day to day. I’ve built a lot of vans professionally, and I’ve seen the same pattern over and over. When people start in the wrong place, they end up rebuilding things later (layouts, systems, even entire interiors). When they start in the right place, everything downstream gets easier. This post is a step-by-step overview of how to build a camper van the way I’ve approached it. It’s meant to reduce overwhelm by giving you the right order, the right questions, and the right priorities. Each step links to a deeper post in this series so you can go as deep as you need without losing the thread, or you can view the series homepage here. Quick Series Map How to Build a Camper Van (Without Getting Stuck) The first article below is a higher-level overview of how I approach building a van. This is my process in a nutshell. Start With Purpose: Build the Van You’ll Actually UseThe practical questions that prevent regret later, plus why I recommend renting/seeing vans in person before locking in plans. Choosing the Right Base Van: Start With How You’ll Actually Use ItHow to choose a platform based on real constraints (height, length, weight, service reality) instead of hype or aesthetics. Layout Design: Start With the Bed and Build Everything Else Around ItWhy I start with sleep and bed height, then make shower/bathroom decisions next, before committing to anything else in the layout. Insulation & Ventilation: Start With the Floor and Plan for Real ComfortA floor-first approach to comfort and noise, plus wall insulation preferences and airflow planning before everything gets closed up. Designing the Garage: Storage, Systems, and Real-World TradeoffsHow to treat the garage as the mechanical room (not just storage), and how bed height, access, and modularity shape long-term usability. Electrical Planning Without the Fear: How to Think About Power in Your Van BuildA calm way to size power based on daily use and travel style, while leaving room for upgrades without tearing the van apart later. Plumbing for Real Life: Showers, Hot Water, and Fast DrainsMy shower-first plumbing priorities – fast drains, tank sizing, hot water choices, and building so leaks and changes stay manageable. Designing for Serviceability: Access, Simplicity, and Future ChangesHow to keep systems reachable and understandable, avoid burying components, and design for the reality that every van evolves. Materials, Weight, and Build Strategy: Why Lighter and Simpler Usually WinsWhere weight and noise really come from, why overbuilding backfires, and how restraint keeps a van quieter, lighter, and easier to change. Common Van Build Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them Before They Get Expensive)The biggest regrets that I’ve seen – like locking in too early, building for imagined use, burying systems, and chasing perfection. Finish the Van, Then Let Experience Do the TeachingWhy “finished enough to use” beats perfect, and how real trips quickly reveal what actually matters (and what doesn’t). My build philosophy in one sentence Build for real use, in the right order, with restraint, and keep systems accessible so the van can evolve. That sentence is simple, but it has saved people a lot of money and frustration. Most regret I’ve seen has not come from choosing the “wrong” brand or the “wrong” product. It has come from locking decisions in too early, overbuilding out of caution, and burying systems so deeply that small issues turn into major tear-outs later. If you only take one thing from this pillar post, take the order of steps. The order is the key. Step 1 – Start with purpose (before tools, layouts, or shopping) Most people think they know what they want until they actually use a van. The first step in how to build a camper van is not picking a van, picking a layout, or picking parts. It’s answering a few practical questions about how you will actually use it. These are the questions I always come back to: Will this be used full-time or mostly on weekends? Will you be staying in campgrounds or boondocking? What climates will you be traveling in? How many people will be riding and sleeping? What gear will need to live or travel inside the van? The best way to answer these questions is to actually spend time camping in vans. Your answers are critical and need to be accurate because they will drive everything else (layout, power, water, insulation, storage, etc.). If you don’t know the answers or are wrong about them, you can end up designing for a lifestyle you will not actually live. Here are a few other resources to help you think through your vanlife purpose: Vanlife Roadmap Podcast: Each episode explores new ways to vanlife with DIYers, pro builders, experts, etc. Why I Love Vanlife - How it's the Best Way to Travel How to Begin Your Vanlife Journey Sooner...What Are You Waiting For? I've Built Over 15 Vans...Here's What I've Learned A Life of Vanlife - My Journey Step 2 – Choose the right base van by focusing on dimensions and constraints People often ask “Which van is best” and I don’t think that is the right question. There is no single best van. There are tradeoffs, and those tradeoffs matter differently depending on how you plan to use the van. A few factors have mattered more than almost anything else in the builds I’ve seen. Roof height Body length If you are spending time inside the van, especially living full-time, standing height can matter a lot. Bending over every day adds friction you don’t notice at first but feel later. Body length affects the layout, how much separation you can have between living zones, and how easy the van is to park and maneuver. Longer vans give more flexibility inside. Shorter vans are easier to drive and park. Neither is better – they just serve different priorities. Weight is also a constraint you cannot ignore. Batteries, water, cabinetry, appliances, and gear add up faster than people expect. If weight is not considered early, the result can be poor handling, sagging suspension, increased wear on components, and a van that feels unstable on the road. Serviceability is part of the build too. Where and how the van will be serviced matters more once people travel regularly. If the van is your home, downtime is not just inconvenient. Here are links to van details for the most popular models: Ford Transit Ram Promaster Mercedes Sprinter Step 3 – Design the layout by starting with the bed When people struggle with layout, it is usually because they start with the wrong anchor. I start with one question. How do you want to sleep every night – in your van, not just on paper? Early on, I built vans with convertible bed setups that looked great in photos. In real life, though, setting up a bed every night can mean rearranging cushions, clearing surfaces, and rebuilding the same thing over and over. After doing that for a few nights, I quickly stopped recommending it. Almost every van I’ve built since has used a fixed platform bed. Once you commit to a bed style, bed height becomes the next critical decision. Bed height determines what you can store underneath, whether bikes fit inside, where tanks and batteries can live, and whether you are going to hit your head every morning when you sit up. I also recommend doing the headroom math early. People focus on the bed platform and forget the floor stack-up. Small changes in floor thickness can affect how the van feels every day, especially if you are tall or want to sit up comfortably in bed. Step 4 – Plan insulation and ventilation before you close things up Once the layout is clear, I like to lock in the floor and the shell because it affects comfort, noise, and how easy the rest of the build is. The floor is one of the easiest places to accidentally overbuild, and small changes in thickness can affect headroom and how the van feels every day. I start with the floor, then make wall insulation decisions, and I think ahead about airflow before everything gets closed up. Floor stack-up and thickness (comfort, noise, headroom) Wall insulation choices (clean install, future changes) Airflow planning before you close things up Here is a video from Vanlife Outfitters on how to think about two main insulation options. Step 5 – Design the garage as the home for both storage and systems A lot of new builders think of the garage as storage only. Don’t forget it’s also the mechanical room. Under the bed is where people typically house electrical systems on one side, plumbing and tanks on the other, and gear, tools, or bikes in the remaining space. The garage is where weight, access, airflow, and mounting realities show up. One of the biggest tradeoffs is this. Bed height and garage height are the same decision. I also treat the subfloor as a structural decision, not a finish detail, because the garage tends to carry the heaviest loads in the whole van. Water, batteries, tools, heaters, tanks, drawers, cabinets, recovery gear, all of it. Even if items mount to walls or framing, the floor still plays a role in stability. Step 6 – Plan electrical by starting with real usage, not edge cases Electrical has intimidated a lot of first-time builders. I’ve seen people jump straight into diagrams, buy components early, and then realize there was not a good place to put them, or the layout forced compromises they did not plan for. Electrical sizing is downstream from purpose. The questions about batteries, solar, inverters, chargers, and wiring only make sense after you answer what you are actually trying to power. When people describe electrical needs, they often list everything they might want to do someday. Sometimes those needs are real. Often they are not. What has mattered more is what happens every day, like phones and laptops, lights, fans, refrigeration, and basic accessories. How you travel also consistently shapes the system. People who drive frequently have different needs than people who park for long stretches. Campgrounds versus boondocking matters. Shore power reduces stress on a system. Off-grid living increases it. Bigger is not always better. Larger systems bring more weight, more cost, more complexity, and more points of failure. The goal is not the biggest system you can afford. It is one you do not think about every day. Here is a guide for sizing your electrical system. Step 7 – Build plumbing for real use (and make drains fast) Plumbing decisions get a lot simpler once you answer one question: shower or sink-only. That one choice drives tank sizing, hot water needs, and how complex the system needs to be. I care a lot about drains because slow drains and standing water make a van feel worse to live in than people expect. I also design plumbing so it stays serviceable because leaks and changes are part of real use. Shower vs sink-only (drives tank and hot water needs) Drain sizing and drain speed (daily usability) Plumbing that can be serviced later (access and fittings) Step 8 – Design for serviceability so the van can evolve Most builders do not regret adding a system. They regret burying it. Reality is messy. Vans vibrate. Fittings loosen. Pumps need attention. You will want to change things as you learn what you actually value. If you have to remove half the van to access a pump or an electrical connection, something went wrong in the design. I favor layouts that keep systems grouped, visible, and reachable so troubleshooting and upgrades stay manageable. Keep systems reachable (pumps, valves, electrical connections) Group related components (so troubleshooting is logical) Leave room for future changes (so upgrades don’t require teardown) Step 9 – Choose materials and build strategy with restraint Weight adds up faster than people expect, and overbuilding can feel “safe” right up until the moment it creates a problem. I have seen weight and complexity come from the same places over and over. Overbuilt furniture, unnecessary materials, overly rigid assemblies, and choices that make access harder later. Noise can also be a build problem, not a van problem. A practical example is the floor. The floor affects comfort and noise more than people expect, and it is easy to overbuild because it feels structural. A simple approach has often been enough. A small amount of sound deadening on large flat metal panels, a vehicle-friendly insulation layer for a thermal break and some acoustic absorption, a solid subfloor (I like ⅝ inch plywood), and then the finished surface. The point is to keep the stack-up thin, functional, and serviceable. Simpler builds are also easier to change. That flexibility becomes more valuable the longer you own the van. Step 10 – Avoid the mistakes that make people stall or redo work If you want a shortcut in learning how to build a camper van, learn from the mistakes I have seen repeatedly. The big ones have looked like this. Locking in decisions too early Designing for imagined use instead of real use Overbuilding out of caution Burying systems and losing access Treating systems as separate projects Chasing perfection instead of finishing the van Order has mattered more than any single decision. When builders let decisions happen in the right sequence, integrate systems into the layout, keep access, and build with restraint, they avoid most of the expensive regret. Here is a list of the most common van build questions we get. Step 11 – Finish the van, then let experience do the teaching Finishing often feels harder than starting. Planning builds confidence. Experience confirms it. A finished van does not mean a final van. Using the van is part of the build process. I have seen people learn more in a couple of days of real use than weeks of planning. Once you start using the van, decisions get simpler because you are no longer guessing. The Simple Build Approach I’ve Relied On If you are overwhelmed, return to this. Start with purpose Van choice acknowledging trade-offs Layout anchored by the bed and headroom math Insulation and ventilation planning (floor first, don’t close yourself in) Garage designed as storage plus systems Electrical planned from real daily usage (leave room to grow) Plumbing sized for real use (fast drains, practical tanks, hot water) Serviceability applied to everything (access, grouping, future changes) Materials and build strategy chosen with restraint (weight, noise, flexibility) Avoid common mistakes by respecting order Finish enough to use – then let experience refine the rest That is the framework. If you want details, the links above are the deeper dives. It’s also not the only way to approach a van build, although it has worked great for me. If you’re looking to dive even deeper into the subject of van build processes, you can also check out this article from one of the founders of Vanlife Outfitters. And, as always, if you get stuck or want to talk through this with a real vanlife expert, feel free to reach out: Email: Support@VanlifeOutfitters.com Phone: 754-444-8704 What I Want You to Feel After Reading This Series What I want you to feel after reading this is not that you’ve solved everything – it’s that you’ve got a clear next step. If you start with purpose and stay honest about how you will actually use the van, the build becomes far more manageable. The van stops being an abstract dream and becomes a practical project with a real order. Head over to Blog #2. Then move forward one step at a time. Happy building – and more importantly, start using the van as soon as you can!
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Vanlife Roadmap Podcast: Ep. 2
From Miami Status to Boondock 3.0 Josh on Vanlife Tradeoffs, Building for Real Use, and Redefining Success Josh joined this episode from inside his van, parked “down by the ocean,” in a build he calls “The Boondock 3.0.” It’s the third iteration of his first van concept, refined over years of real use and a lot of learning the hard way. Josh is also one of the founders of Vanlife Outfitters, and his story is a good reminder that vanlife rarely starts with a perfect plan. It usually starts with a pull toward a different kind of life, then a series of decisions and tradeoffs that get clearer once you’re actually living them. From “Miami starter kit” to a different definition of success Josh was born in Boston, moved to Orlando for college, and later took an unexpected turn into construction and real estate. After the 2008 crash, he and a group of friends started buying and fixing properties in South Florida, eventually buying around 130 properties and managing a large portfolio through a property management company. When that chapter ended around 2015, Josh describes a period where he went “a little overboard” with the lifestyle side of “success” – waterfront condo, sports car, watches, expensive dinners, the whole “Miami guy starter kit” as he called it. What changed wasn’t a single dramatic moment. It was noticing how empty the conversations felt, then realizing how alive he felt outdoors. A pivotal trip was ten days in North Carolina learning to whitewater kayak, spending long cold days in the water and sleeping in a barebones shack. It should have felt like deprivation compared to his Miami condo, but it didn’t. He came home thinking, “This is the type of stuff I want to be doing all the time.” That trip kicked off a process of simplification. He looked at cabins, then tiny homes, then something smaller and more mobile – eventually finding vanlife (back when resources were scarce). He then sold “everything” to fully reset his life. Building the first van when almost nobody was doing it Josh didn’t know anyone with a van when he started. He also didn’t pretend a house background meant he knew how to build a van. He calls out a key difference that matters for DIY builders – houses are built in “inches,” while vans are “multiple millimeters,” and a lot of van systems feel closer to marine work than residential construction. One key way he learned was through an early vanlife blog he found – Vanlife Outfitters – and through the person behind it, Zach. Josh says Zach became a mentor during the build, feeding him product and system guidance while they stayed in touch remotely. When Josh looks back on that first build, the thing he’s most proud of is simply finishing it – a huge accomplishment. The hardest part for most DIY builders When Josh talks about the difficulties of first builds, he doesn’t hesitate to say that the hardest and most error-prone area is the electrical system. On his first build, he found a marine electrician in South Florida and essentially assisted for three days while they installed and programmed the system. Josh had previously done some wiring work himself, but he wanted experienced help for the final integration and setup. He adds a practical approach for people who don’t yet know what their lifestyle will demand. Do a load calculation. Start with a baseline system. Leave room and budget to expand, like adding batteries later or adding a second alternator if needed. His point is simple. Many first-time builders guess wrong because living in a van changes how you use power, and you learn your true patterns after you’re on the road. Two space decisions Josh considers game-changing 1) Shower strategy that matches real use Showers are one of the most debated van decisions, and Josh’s view comes from living it for years. In his first two vans, he used an outdoor shower and gym showers, but he says there was still “25% of the time” when it became annoying or impractical – no nearby gym, too cold outside, or too hard to find privacy in a city. At the same time, he didn’t want a fixed indoor shower taking up space and breaking the “open” feeling of the van. His current solution is a setup that gives indoor shower capability without committing permanent space the way a traditional fixed shower would (Link: Josh’s shower setup). He also mentions a creative use of dead space behind the shower – using an electric pop-up mechanism to raise and lower an appliance cabinet, keeping appliances off the countertop. 2) The bulkhead between cockpit and cabin If there’s one design element Josh would “never skip” now, it’s a dedicated bulkhead wall separating the cockpit from the cabin, with a pass-through door. He knows it’s controversial because many people want swivel seats and an open front-to-back space. But his argument is that a wall is fundamentally different from a curtain for sound, light, and temperature control. He believes most heat and cold intrusion comes through the windshield and front windows, and the bulkhead eliminates “probably 90%” of that. He also frames it as a lifestyle upgrade. The bulkhead can create two distinct living zones, which matters if you’re working remotely or sharing the space with a partner. How Josh uses vanlife now Josh stopped full-time van life in 2020 and now uses his van part-time, often as a base camp for backpacking trips with his girlfriend. He’ll park at a trailhead, backpack for several days, then return to the van and move to the next spot. A major enabler is reliable internet. Josh is using Starlink during the interview and calls it one of the biggest game changers in vanlife in recent years because it can support remote work even where there’s no cell signal. He typically travels in month-long blocks, leaving the van at friends’ houses or storage lots, then returning to his home base in Miami before heading out again. How Vanlife Outfitters became a store Josh’s relationship with Zach started long before the company did. Josh found Zach’s early blog while researching his first build, and they stayed in touch for years. During the pandemic, Josh was involved in a van-building operation with a friend who ran a production company. When festivals and events were canceled, they pivoted to building vans to keep a team of tradespeople employed. Over about 18 months, they built around 11 or 12 vans, with Josh supervising and training the tradesmen. That’s also when Zach asked a practical question. Zach was receiving a lot of emails asking what products to use, and he saw that Josh had business experience, a warehouse environment, and a team. Zach asked if Josh would want to turn the blog into a store. Josh agreed, and they built it together with a clear split. Zach built the store online while he was in Panama (see his episode for that story). Josh handled in-person operations around inventory and fulfillment, initially using a corner of the van-building warehouse. In a detail that still surprises people, they didn’t meet in person for a few years, not until the business had outgrown the corner setup and moved into a second warehouse. When asked what he’s most proud of, Josh points to the team, the number of vanlifers they’ve helped, and the company’s reputation for customer service and technical support. Peace Love & Vans and why community matters Josh and Zach also co-founded a vanlife festival – Peace Love & Vans – in part because many events were being canceled during the pandemic and Florida was one of the few places where large events were still possible. They wanted something more community-driven than a typical trade show. Josh contrasts expo-heavy events with what they aimed to build – a “utopian van village” where vanlifers and “van-curious” can immerse themselves in the community, see floor plans, meet builders, discover products, and simply hang out with others living a similar lifestyle. He also doubles down on a practical recommendation: If you’re van-curious, then you should rent a van and take it to a festival. It compresses learning into a weekend because you can talk to hundreds of vanlifers, see many layouts, and get real feedback on decisions before committing to a build. Vanlife has changed and Josh’s three “new wave” groups Josh started vanlife when it felt like a fringe idea. He says the pandemic pushed it into the mainstream, and he sees growth coming from three distinct groups today. People in their 20s who want an alternative to high rent and a traditional path. People in their 30s and 40s whose work is now truly remote, especially enabled by reliable internet like Starlink. People 50+ who want freedom and flexibility without the constraints of RV reservations and campground planning, opting into off-grid vans as a different kind of travel. The thread that ties it together is “freedom and flexibility.” Quick takeaways for DIY builders from Josh If you only remember a few things from this conversation, these are the ones Josh kept returning to. Electrical first, and plan for change DIY builders get the electrical system wrong most often, and it can be the most expensive mistake. Start with a load calculation, build for today, and leave room to expand once you learn how you actually travel. Use the resources and ask for help Josh didn’t have a roadmap when he started, but now builders do. His advice is to use the content that’s already available, and learn directly from people who have built and lived in their vans. Design for the “dirty stuff” you take for granted in a house A surprising mistake he sees is skipping the unglamorous storage needs. Trash, laundry, shoes, backpacks. Without dedicated places, mess and friction take over the space fast. Summary thoughts from Josh on building for real use If there’s a theme that runs through Josh’s story, it’s that the best van decisions don’t come from chasing an ideal build. They come from paying attention to real use, then having the humility to adjust. That’s what “Boondock 3.0” represents – a build shaped by miles, weather, work, and the everyday friction points you only notice once the van is your home base. If you’re early in your own process, the goal isn’t to get every detail right on day one. It’s to build a solid foundation, leave room to evolve, and learn from people who have already lived the tradeoffs. If you want to hear the full conversation with Josh, check out Episode 02 of Vanlife Roadmap – and if you’re stuck on a decision, reach out to our team at support@vanlifeoutfitters.com.
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Victron Energy Dongles: Explained!
Interface MK3 to USB, VE.Bus Smart, and VE.Direct Bluetooth Smart What is a dongle and when do I need one? This post explains Victron Energy’s confusing accessories for configuring and monitoring Victron systems. First, let’s get this out of the way. A dongle is a small device able to be connected to and used with a computer. Sometimes Victron calls it a dongle. Sometimes Victron calls it an interface. We dunno, but we’ll call it a dongle if you call us asking for more info on our Victron products. Types of Dongles Victron offers several dongles for different purposes and products. If you need to configure settings, update firmware, or remotely monitor your Victron device with VictronConnect, keep reading! As of this posting (early 2026), our store has three types of Victron Energy dongles available. Most camper van electrical systems are interested in the first two of these dongles below, while some customers upgrading older non-Bluetooth devices may be considering the third dongle. Let’s break them down. An Interface MK3 to USB (we’ll call it a MK3-USB dongle!) is used to configure settings and update firmware for VE.Bus products. VE.Bus products are Multiplus inverter/chargers, standalone BMS, and some inverters. There are two MK3-USB dongle options, with the only difference between the two being a USB-A connector (the O.G. rectangular USB connection) versus a USB-C connector (the newer, slimmer port as found on phones, tablets, etc.). A VE.Bus Smart Dongle is used to monitor and operate VE.Bus products via Bluetooth. “Operate” means changing the input current limit as well as switching between Off, On and Charger-only modes on an inverter/charger. A VE.Direct Bluetooth Smart Dongle adds a Bluetooth interface to monitor devices such as the BMV-70x series battery monitors (not the newer BMV-712 with integrated Bluetooth), Phoenix Inverters with VE.Direct port, and MPPT Solar Charge Controllers without Bluetooth. Don’t confuse VE.Bus devices with VE.Direct devices. VE.Bus units are typically high-power devices like Multiplus inverter/chargers, and these devices use an “Ethernet” VE.Bus cable. VE.Direct units are typically lower power devices such as DC-DC chargers and MPPT Charge Controllers, and these devices use a proprietary VE.Direct cable. Each of those device types needs a different dongle. What’s up with all these Victron protocols and cables? Check out our Victron Energy Cables: Explained! blog. When do I need a MK3-USB dongle? A MK3-USB dongle (again, formally titled an Interface MK3 to USB by Victron) can be used to configure settings and update firmware on your Multiplus via the VictronConnect app. Victron still ships Multiplus products configured for AGM batteries, so most customers need to configure their inverter/chargers for lithium-ion batteries and adjust their settings as explained here. However, if your system has a Cerbo GX command center, you can perform all of the configuration steps and firmware updates using the VRM without needing a separate MK3-USB dongle. You have two options for configuring your Multiplus settings and updating firmware 1) with a Victron Cerbo through the VRM or 2) using a laptop/phone* directly to a MK3-USB dongle. You MUST pick one of these options. Since you’ll need at least one dongle to configure and update your Multiplus, and maybe you want the ability to control your Multiplus remotely with a second dongle (see next section below), we highly recommend considering a Cerbo GX instead of worrying about dongles at all. You get more features, consolidated configuration & operation, plus the ability for remote troubleshooting & diagnostics for just a little more investment. Bonus tip: while we think the Cerbo pairs perfectly with a touch screen, you can use the Cerbo through VRM and/or Bluetooth without a touch screen if you choose. If you choose to use a MK3-USB dongle for configuring your Multiplus and you do have a Cerbo in your system, don’t forget that those VE.Bus connections should be mutually exclusive. Connect the VE.Bus cable to your dongle initially, then disconnect the dongle and make the connection from the Cerbo to the Multiplus. Put your dongle in your maintenance area, as you may need it for future firmware updates. If you need a MK3-USB dongle, your only decision is to pick between USB-A (top) and USB-C (bottom) connectors. Aside from the connector, both dongles perform the same functions. Generally speaking, laptops using VictronConnect and/or VEConfigure software trend towards USB-A ports, and newer phones & tablets using VictronConnect are using USB-C ports. Lastly, if you’re a power user or in a big rig with multiple Multiplus devices in split-phase or parallel configurations, then you will need a MK3-USB dongle for proper configuration of the inverter/chargers. When do I need a VE.Bus Smart Dongle? A VE.Bus Smart Dongle adds Bluetooth connectivity to a Multiplus for monitoring and control only. You can not configure settings or perform firmware updates using a VE.Bus Smart Dongle. That’s why we talked about the MK3-USB dongle above! Via the VictronConnect app, the VE.Bus Smart Dongle allows you to readily see an inverter/charger’s key stats as well as warnings or alarms. The VE.Bus Smart Dongle also allows you to control the input current limit and mode (Off, On aka Inverter/Charger, and Charger-only). These operator controls provide a way to replace a Digital Multi Control Panel with Bluetooth connectivity. The VE.Bus Smart Dongle is an optional device that can add Multiplus monitoring & operation in a system without a Cerbo. The VE.Bus Smart Dongle connects to a device with a VE.Bus cable that is not included. When do I need a VE.Direct Smart Dongle? The VE.Direct Bluetooth Smart Dongle adds Bluetooth connectivity to VE.Direct devices for monitoring only. Don’t confuse the VE.Bus Smart Dongle for VE.Bus devices such as a Multiplus with this one, which is for VE.Direct devices such as BMV-70x series battery monitors, Phoenix Inverters with VE.Direct port, and BlueSolar MPPT Solar Charge Controllers without Bluetooth. If you have a SmartSolar MPPT Solar Charge Controller like the ones in our store, those pretty blue boxes already have Bluetooth capability without the need for this extra dongle. Via the VictronConnect app, the VE.Direct Smart Dongle allows you to readily see a device’s key stats as well as warnings or alarms. The VE.Direct Smart Dongle is an optional device that can add remote monitoring to VE.Direct devices that lack Bluetooth connectivity. The VE.Direct Smart Dongle has an integral cable that plugs directly into a single device with a VE.Direct port. Wrap Up - Quick Selection Guide Here it is in a nutshell: Your device & goal What to buy Have a Cerbo GX? You likely don’t need a dongle Configuring or updating a MultiPlus MK3-USB and a VE.Bus cable Bluetooth monitoring for MultiPlus VE.Bus Smart Dongle and a VE.Bus cable Bluetooth for older VE.Direct devices VE.Direct Smart Dongle Remember to “match the port”. Use a VE.Bus dongle for Multiplus. Use a VE.Direct dongle for most other devices with a VE.Direct port. Frequently Asked Questions 1. What software do I need to connect to a dongle? All Victron dongles require the VictronConnect app. * Note that Apple iPhone/iPad doesn't support USB OTG, so Bluetooth connections work fine from an iDevice but the MK3-USB dongle requires either a Windows/Mac laptop or an Android device. 2. VictronConnect won’t connect - what should I try first? Troubleshoot common VictronConnect and Bluetooth issues in three steps. Make sure the Bluetooth is on in your phone’s system menu Move your phone very close to the device If you’re still not connecting, then 1) close VictronConnect 2) remove the device pairing from you phone’s Bluetooth system menu 3) open VictronConnect and pair with the device from within the VictronConnect Local screen. 3. Do I need to configure my Victron electrical system? Yes. Factory defaults are not correct for lithium-ion batteries and most camper van electrical systems. You need to configure the settings in all of your electrical devices, and you need the capability to update firmware when necessary. 4. How do I choose between a USB-A dongle and a USB-C dongle? The only difference between the USB-A dongle and the USB-C dongle is the connection to your laptop or phone. Select USB-A for the traditional USB connector, or select USB-C for more modern devices with only USB-C ports. There are also adapters available to readily switch between the two physical connectors. 5. What is the difference between VE.Bus and VE.Direct? VE.Bus and VE.Direct are both communication protocols, however they use different cables and work on different devices. VE.Bus units are typically high-power devices like Multiplus inverter/chargers. VE.Direct units are typically lower power devices such as DC-DC chargers and MPPT Charge Controllers. Additional Resources Victron Accessories product information Configuring a Multiplus using a MK3-USB dongle Troubleshooting VictronConnect
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Pro Builder Tips for a Better DIY Van Build
DIY van builds are one of the most rewarding projects you can take on. They can also get expensive and frustrating when you discover (too late) that a key decision should have been made earlier. Vanlife Outfitters exists to help DIYers build with confidence. We do that by sharing practical education, helping you find parts that work well together, and learning directly from experienced builders who see the same challenges over and over. To support that mission, we asked eight professional van builders to share the single most important thing they wish first-time DIY builders understood before starting a build or major install. This post distills their advice into an actionable guide and highlights the builders who contributed (as collaborators, not endorsements). The builders who contributed Charles Nolt – Runny Yolk Designs Stuart Grulke – Groove Vans John Hayward – Whitewater Vans Jay Lamphier – Mountain Coast Vans Justin vanBlaricom – Noke Van Co. Vanessa Plante – Bear Claw Custom Vans Jake Bachowski – Our Van Quest Troy Norton – Nanavans Additional resources to help with your van build The 10 Most Common Camper Van Build Questions (and the One That Really Matters) 10+ Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Camper Van Builder How to Find the Right Camper Van Builder (Without Losing Your Shirt or Your Sanity) I've Built Over 15 Vans...Here's What I've Learned Now for advice from 8 professional builders 1) Start with how you’ll actually use the van Jake (Our Van Quest) recommends stepping back before any major install and getting specific about your use case. Weekend trips, adventure travel, kids’ tournaments – each one pushes you toward different system decisions. His point is simple: define the use and limitations first, then design your systems around that (electrical, plumbing, suspension, wheels and tires). Do this now Write a one-sentence “mission statement” for your van (what you’ll use it for most). List your constraints (season, climate, off-grid time, number of people). Review every major system choice and ask if it supports that mission. 2) Try a layout before you commit to building it Stuart (Groove Vans) shares a practical rule: try before you buy. There are countless layouts and options, and it can take one or two attempts to learn what you truly prefer. His recommendation is to test different floor plans in real life before you commit. Do this now Identify your top 2–3 layout options. If possible, rent, borrow, or test a similar layout on a trip. Document what felt great and what became annoying fast. 3) Draw it to scale (then account for what you forgot) Jay (Mountain Coast Vans) focuses on space planning and realism. Vans are tight, even the “big” ones. He urges DIY builders to draw the plan to scale and factor in what quietly steals space: plywood thickness, framing members, and wire runs. The upfront effort can save you from building yourself into a corner later. Do this now Create a scaled drawing of your layout (Jay says to do it thrice!). Add the thickness and routing reality (materials, framing, wiring paths). Redraw until everything actually fits and remains serviceable. 4) Plan electrical for today and for future upgrades Vanessa (Bear Claw Custom Vans) recommends calculating current and future electrical demands before you choose your approach. That planning helps you decide whether an all-in-one power box is enough or whether you need a full custom electrical system. Her warning is based on what she sees in the field: DIYers who want to add a heater later, only to find their system can’t support it without expensive rework. Do this now List the devices you’ll run now. Add a second list of future upgrades you might want later. Choose an electrical approach that supports both lists without major rebuilds. 5) Don’t skimp on materials and components if you want it to last Stuart’s next point is blunt: great plans fail when materials and components are cheap. If you build the best floor plan imaginable but cut corners on materials, electronics, or components, durability suffers. Do this now Identify the components that will be hardest (and costliest) to redo later. Prioritize quality there first, even if you compromise elsewhere temporarily. Research before buying so you’re not replacing parts twice. 6) Avoid MDF and particleboard in a van environment Justin (Noke Van Co.) gets specific on one common mistake. He advises DIYers not to use MDF or pressed wood for cabinets and framing because highway driving creates constant vibration. Over time, screws can loosen and cabinetry can fail. He shares that his shop uses lightweight plywood alternatives (and notes there are multiple options) because they’re structurally strong while helping reduce weight. Do this now Review your cabinet and framing material plan. Choose a material that holds fasteners well under vibration. Build for durability first, cosmetics second. 7) Build skills and confidence before you build the van Troy (Nanavans) encourages first-time DIY builders to focus on the techniques required to make the build happen, not only the final vision. If you’re buying tools for the first time (or borrowing them), he recommends practicing on a small project first (even a small project like a birdhouse) so you understand what you’re doing before the van becomes the practice piece. Do this now Pick a small “practice build” that uses the same tools and techniques. Track your real time and learning curve. Set expectations for the van build based on what you experienced. 8) Prep and organization reduce frustration (and improve the end result) Charles (Runny Yolk Designs) highlights something that separates smooth builds from miserable ones: preparation. He believes DIYers are capable of great quality work, and suggests setting yourself up for success by thinking through the job ahead, staging your tools and fasteners, and reducing the “constant searching” that creates frustration. He even shares a simple tactic from his shop – using a sheet pan as a portable bin for your tools and parts while you work. He also adds a mindset reminder that matters: it’s your build. Perfection is not the only path to a space you love. Stuart echoes the organization angle from a planning standpoint: spreadsheets help manage the number of parts and pieces, and help keep your budget under control. Do this now Keep a parts list and a simple budget tracker (a spreadsheet is enough). Stage the tools and fasteners you’ll need before you start the task. Reduce friction wherever possible so the build stays fun and sustainable. Watch the builders share this advice If you want to hear each builder deliver their tip directly, we also put together a short compilation video featuring all eight builders: LINK Frequently Asked Questions What’s the first decision I should make before starting a DIY van build? Start with the use of the van and your limitations, then design the systems around that (Jake, Our Van Quest). Should I test a layout before committing to a build plan? Yes. Stuart (Groove Vans) recommends trying different floor plans and options before you commit. Why do builders insist on drawing layouts to scale? Jay (Mountain Coast Vans) makes the point that space disappears fast once you account for real-world thickness and routing (plywood thickness, framing members, wire runs). Drawing to scale helps you avoid optimism that becomes a problem later. What’s the biggest electrical mistake DIY builders make early on? Vanessa (Bear Claw Custom Vans) recommends calculating current and future electrical demands up front so you don’t end up limited a year later when you want to add something new (like a heater). What material should I avoid for cabinets in a van? Justin (Noke Van Co) recommends not using MDF or pressed wood because vibration can loosen screws over time and cause failures. How do I keep a long DIY build from turning into frustration? Charles (Runny Yolk Designs) suggests prepping your tools and parts before tasks so you’re not constantly searching, and Stuart (Groove Vans) recommends staying organized with simple spreadsheets for parts and budget. I’m not a professional – can I still do quality work? Charles (Runny Yolk Designs) believes you are capable of great quality work, and frames the difference as repetition and experience. Troy (Nanavans) adds that practice projects help you build confidence before tackling major installs. What’s one mindset shift that helps DIY builders finish? John (Whitewater Vans) emphasizes that the process can be time-consuming and full of surprises, and that using existing builder experience and tools can help you streamline decisions and push through roadblocks.
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Installing AM Auto (Adhesive-Bonded) Windows In Your Camper Van
AM Auto windows use automotive urethane adhesive to bond directly to the van body rather than relying on an interior clamp ring. This “fully bonded” design creates a permanent seal between the glass and sheet metal. Because there is no interior frame, installation depends on proper surface preparation, consistent adhesive application, and careful placement. This guide outlines the tools, preparation steps, and installation process to help you achieve a secure, weather-tight fit. Why Choose Adhesive-Bonded Windows? Urethane-bonded windows attach directly to the van body using automotive adhesive rather than relying on an interior clamp ring and gasket. For many DIY installers, this approach can simplify the installation process and reduce some common pain points. Key advantages: More forgiving cut tolerancesBecause there is no interior frame that must fit precisely inside the opening, the cut does not need to be perfectly uniform. This can save time and reduce stress during the cutting phase. Fewer mechanical fasteners to installThere are no interior clamp rings or dozens of small screws to align and tighten, which can be difficult to access and prone to stripping or failing to grab. Reduced reliance on foam gasketsThe weather seal is created by a continuous bead of urethane rather than a thin foam gasket, which can compress unevenly or degrade over time if not installed correctly. Simplified installation workflowWith proper prep and adhesive application, the process is more linear: cut, prep, bond, and secure while curing. Start by watching this short overview video and then follow along with our detailed steps and recommended tools below! Before You Start Taking time to prepare your workspace, tools, and conditions will make the installation smoother and help ensure a strong, weather-tight bond. Environmental Conditions Ideal install range is 50–90°F (10–32°C). Cold temperatures slow urethane curing and make it harder to dispense. Very hot temperatures can cause the adhesive to skin over too quickly, reducing bond quality. If possible, work in the shade. Avoid installing in rain or when moisture is present on the van body. High humidity can interfere with proper adhesion and cure time. Workspace Preparation Park on a level surface to help with window alignment. Ensure you have adequate lighting for marking and cutting. Protect the interior with plastic or drop cloths to catch metal shavings. Keep a vacuum or magnet nearby to remove metal debris that could cause rust. What You'll Need AM Auto window (or any other urethane adhesive bonded windows) Rubber edge trim that will cover the metal edges of your cut out. Automotive urethane adhesive. You'll need about 2 tubes of adhesive for a large window or about 1 tube for a small window. Primer for the sheet metal surrounding the window that the urethane adhesive/window will adhere to. These "daubers" work well for applying the primer. A high strength caulking gun with a minimum of 26:1 "thrust". Urethane caulking is very hard to get out of the tube. Don't try to use a "normal" caulking gun! A jig saw with a fine metal blade for cutting the opening Blue painters tape - both for protecting the van sheet metal/paint while cutting the opening and for securing the window in place after it has been placed into the urethane adhesive. We also recommend that you use gloves when working with the primer and adhesive, and wear safety eyeglasses when making the cut in the van's metal body. *If you are replacing an existing factory window that is glued in, you may want to talk to a professional for removal and replacement. The best tool to use for removing an existing glued in window is a wire cutter such as the Equalizer Window Cut-Out Set but this is a difficult job. Once the existing window is removed, you will need to remove the urethane down as flat as possible and clean as much away as you can CRL Adhesive Cleaner. Cutting The Opening This window uses the van's factory metal stamping which makes it easier to cut the opening because the "size and shape" of the cut out is built into the vehicle. If you take a look at the interior of the van you will notice an area where the inner metal ends. You will cut right along that edge all the way around your van. Some openings may include thin vertical supports within the stamped area. These are typically non-structural and can be cut if they fall within the factory window recess, but verify your specific van model before proceeding. It's typically easier to cut the opening from the outside. Many people will drill small holes from the inside of the van at each corner of each of the radius curves (top right, top left, bottom right and bottom left). Once these guide holes are drilled you can essentially "connect the dots" with a marker on the exterior of the van to mark the location of your cut. A jig saw with a fine metal blade works well. Be sure to protect the paint around the cut out with blue painters tape where the saw will be moving over the sheet metal. We also recommend trying to capture the metal shavings with plastic and/or a vacuum. Be sure to "dry fit" the window to ensure that your opening is the right size/shape and that the window will fit into the opening in the place you want it. Make any adjustments to the opening before proceeding. Preparing the Opening Once the opening has been cut (or existing window removed) you'll want to file the edges of your cut and then primer those bare metal edges to prevent any corrosion. When the primer has dried, you can apply your Trim-Lok edge trim around the perimeter of your cut out. It's generally best to start at the middle of the bottom of your cut out/opening and work the Trim-Lok around the opening. The Trim-Lok can be cut with a razor blade to the correct size. Next you'll want to clean the outside metal/paint of the van around the area where the window will be installed with rubbing alcohol in order to ensure a good bond between the sheet metal/paint and the urethane adhesive/window. Also clean the window itself where it will interact with the adhesive with rubbing alcohol. Use your vacuum to remove any metal shavings on the outside of the van, and anywhere the plastic sheet inside did not catch. If left, these metal shavings can cause rust over time. Applying Urethane Adhesive Apply your urethane primer the outside of the body in the area that the window will be glued to. Consider using blue painters tape adjacent to the area you're applying the primer to prevent any primer from getting on areas of the van that the window will not cover. The primer looks like a thin, matte black paint when applied. Maintain an approximate 1/2" gap around the edges - do not go all the way to the edge of the metal that the window will cover. Follow the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions regarding glass priming. Many urethane systems do not require primer on the glass, but always verify. Allow primer to dry for about 10 minutes. Be careful not to block the weep holes on the window track with sealant. Next, apply the urethane adhesive. Cut your urethane adhesive tube tip "straight across" (no v-notch). When applying you want a heavy bead (about the diameter of a "Tootsie Roll"). The adhesive should be applied sheet metal rather than the window near the edge of the cutout. Be sure to evenly distribute to urethane adhesive and avoid any high or low points. When changing directions or starting/stopping the application, be sure to overlap your beads slightly to prevent any gaps. The most important part of a urethane window installation is consistency in the bead of urethane. Placing the Window When placing the window you'll want to get it as close to desired location as possible in one movement so that you can fine tune the placement slightly but not need to make significant adjustments which could either move the adhesive into areas that it shouldn't be or spread the adhesive too thin. It's ideal to have two people - one on the inside that can pull on frame and help position the window and the other outside ensuring the window does not fall out! Once you've fine-tuned the position of the window, press on the window with an open palm all around the area/perimeter where the urethane adhesive was applied in order to press the glass into the adhesive for a strong bond. The goal with a van window installation is to have the glass about even with the outer body. You want to have an approximately 1/4" gap between the glass and the van's sheet metal. Avoid too small of a gap - while you may feel the aesthetic look is nicer during installation, you want to maintain the small gap for fluctuating temperatures/etc. so that the glass does not shatter in these conditions. If any urethane adhesive oozes into the interior of the van, liberally spray the adhesive with glass cleaner and then use a plastic putty knife to smooth the urethane out like you might with spackling or caulking for a nicer appearance and adequate bond. Finally, use blue painters tape to secure the window into place while the adhesive cures. You can drive your van after 3-4 hours and remove the tape after 24 hours. Do not wash the van for 72 hours. A Note on Ford Transits Ford Transit windows have a drastic curvature as opposed to other van makes like the Sprinter or Promaster. They sometimes require suction clamps when installing the windows to ensure the curvature is correctly aligning with the body of the van. To determine if this is necessary for your Transit window install, we recommend doing a dry fit first to see if there are any spots that sit higher off the van body. The suction clamps are applied right away once the window is positioned in place with adhesive. You should place them in the location where you would like to improve the curvature. The suction clamps stay on as long as the adhesive takes to cure. Disclosure: This page contains Amazon affiliate links, which means that if you click a product link and buy anything, we will receive a small commission.
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