February 20, 2026

Installing AM Auto (Adhesive-Bonded) Windows In Your Camper Van

AM Auto windows use automotive urethane adhesive to bond directly to the van body rather than relying on an interior clamp ring. This “fully bonded” design creates a permanent seal between the glass and sheet metal. Because there is no interior frame, installation depends on proper surface preparation, consistent adhesive application, and careful placement. This guide outlines the tools, preparation steps, and installation process to help you achieve a secure, weather-tight fit. Why Choose Adhesive-Bonded Windows? Urethane-bonded windows attach directly to the van body using automotive adhesive rather than relying on an interior clamp ring and gasket. For many DIY installers, this approach can simplify the installation process and reduce some common pain points. Key advantages: More forgiving cut tolerancesBecause there is no interior frame that must fit precisely inside the opening, the cut does not need to be perfectly uniform. This can save time and reduce stress during the cutting phase. Fewer mechanical fasteners to installThere are no interior clamp rings or dozens of small screws to align and tighten, which can be difficult to access and prone to stripping or failing to grab. Reduced reliance on foam gasketsThe weather seal is created by a continuous bead of urethane rather than a thin foam gasket, which can compress unevenly or degrade over time if not installed correctly. Simplified installation workflowWith proper prep and adhesive application, the process is more linear: cut, prep, bond, and secure while curing. Start by watching this short overview video and then follow along with our detailed steps and recommended tools below! Before You Start Taking time to prepare your workspace, tools, and conditions will make the installation smoother and help ensure a strong, weather-tight bond. Environmental Conditions Ideal install range is 50–90°F (10–32°C). Cold temperatures slow urethane curing and make it harder to dispense. Very hot temperatures can cause the adhesive to skin over too quickly, reducing bond quality. If possible, work in the shade. Avoid installing in rain or when moisture is present on the van body. High humidity can interfere with proper adhesion and cure time. Workspace Preparation Park on a level surface to help with window alignment. Ensure you have adequate lighting for marking and cutting. Protect the interior with plastic or drop cloths to catch metal shavings. Keep a vacuum or magnet nearby to remove metal debris that could cause rust. What You'll Need AM Auto window (or any other urethane adhesive bonded windows) Rubber edge trim that will cover the metal edges of your cut out. Automotive urethane adhesive. You'll need about 2 tubes of adhesive for a large window or about 1 tube for a small window. Primer for the sheet metal surrounding the window that the urethane adhesive/window will adhere to. These "daubers" work well for applying the primer. A high strength caulking gun with a minimum of 26:1 "thrust". Urethane caulking is very hard to get out of the tube. Don't try to use a "normal" caulking gun! A jig saw with a fine metal blade for cutting the opening Blue painters tape - both for protecting the van sheet metal/paint while cutting the opening and for securing the window in place after it has been placed into the urethane adhesive. We also recommend that you use gloves when working with the primer and adhesive, and wear safety eyeglasses when making the cut in the van's metal body. *If you are replacing an existing factory window that is glued in, you may want to talk to a professional for removal and replacement. The best tool to use for removing an existing glued in window is a wire cutter such as the Equalizer Window Cut-Out Set but this is a difficult job. Once the existing window is removed, you will need to remove the urethane down as flat as possible and clean as much away as you can CRL Adhesive Cleaner. Cutting The Opening This window uses the van's factory metal stamping which makes it easier to cut the opening because the "size and shape" of the cut out is built into the vehicle. If you take a look at the interior of the van you will notice an area where the inner metal ends. You will cut right along that edge all the way around your van. Some openings may include thin vertical supports within the stamped area. These are typically non-structural and can be cut if they fall within the factory window recess, but verify your specific van model before proceeding. It's typically easier to cut the opening from the outside. Many people will drill small holes from the inside of the van at each corner of each of the radius curves (top right, top left, bottom right and bottom left). Once these guide holes are drilled you can essentially "connect the dots" with a marker on the exterior of the van to mark the location of your cut. A jig saw with a fine metal blade works well. Be sure to protect the paint around the cut out with blue painters tape where the saw will be moving over the sheet metal. We also recommend trying to capture the metal shavings with plastic and/or a vacuum. Be sure to "dry fit" the window to ensure that your opening is the right size/shape and that the window will fit into the opening in the place you want it. Make any adjustments to the opening before proceeding. Preparing the Opening Once the opening has been cut (or existing window removed) you'll want to file the edges of your cut and then primer those bare metal edges to prevent any corrosion. When the primer has dried, you can apply your Trim-Lok edge trim around the perimeter of your cut out. It's generally best to start at the middle of the bottom of your cut out/opening and work the Trim-Lok around the opening. The Trim-Lok can be cut with a razor blade to the correct size. Next you'll want to clean the outside metal/paint of the van around the area where the window will be installed with rubbing alcohol in order to ensure a good bond between the sheet metal/paint and the urethane adhesive/window. Also clean the window itself where it will interact with the adhesive with rubbing alcohol. Use your vacuum to remove any metal shavings on the outside of the van, and anywhere the plastic sheet inside did not catch. If left, these metal shavings can cause rust over time. Applying Urethane Adhesive Apply your urethane primer the outside of the body in the area that the window will be glued to. Consider using blue painters tape adjacent to the area you're applying the primer to prevent any primer from getting on areas of the van that the window will not cover. The primer looks like a thin, matte black paint when applied. Maintain an approximate 1/2" gap around the edges - do not go all the way to the edge of the metal that the window will cover. Follow the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions regarding glass priming. Many urethane systems do not require primer on the glass, but always verify. Allow primer to dry for about 10 minutes.  Be careful not to block the weep holes on the window track with sealant. Next, apply the urethane adhesive. Cut your urethane adhesive tube tip "straight across" (no v-notch). When applying you want a heavy bead (about the diameter of a "Tootsie Roll"). The adhesive should be applied sheet metal rather than the window near the edge of the cutout. Be sure to evenly distribute to urethane adhesive and avoid any high or low points. When changing directions or starting/stopping the application, be sure to overlap your beads slightly to prevent any gaps. The most important part of a urethane window installation is consistency in the bead of urethane. Placing the Window When placing the window you'll want to get it as close to desired location as possible in one movement so that you can fine tune the placement slightly but not need to make significant adjustments which could either move the adhesive into areas that it shouldn't be or spread the adhesive too thin. It's ideal to have two people - one on the inside that can pull on frame and help position the window and the other outside ensuring the window does not fall out! Once you've fine-tuned the position of the window, press on the window with an open palm all around the area/perimeter where the urethane adhesive was applied in order to press the glass into the adhesive for a strong bond. The goal with a van window installation is to have the glass about even with the outer body. You want to have an approximately 1/4" gap between the glass and the van's sheet metal. Avoid too small of a gap - while you may feel the aesthetic look is nicer during installation, you want to maintain the small gap for fluctuating temperatures/etc. so that the glass does not shatter in these conditions. If any urethane adhesive oozes into the interior of the van, liberally spray the adhesive with glass cleaner and then use a plastic putty knife to smooth the urethane out like you might with spackling or caulking for a nicer appearance and adequate bond. Finally, use blue painters tape to secure the window into place while the adhesive cures. You can drive your van after 3-4 hours and remove the tape after 24 hours. Do not wash the van for 72 hours.  A Note on Ford Transits Ford Transit windows have a drastic curvature as opposed to other van makes like the Sprinter or Promaster. They sometimes require suction clamps when installing the windows to ensure the curvature is correctly aligning with the body of the van. To determine if this is necessary for your Transit window install, we recommend doing a dry fit first to see if there are any spots that sit higher off the van body. The suction clamps are applied right away once the window is positioned in place with adhesive. You should place them in the location where you would like to improve the curvature. The suction clamps stay on as long as the adhesive takes to cure.    Disclosure: This page contains Amazon affiliate links, which means that if you click a product link and buy anything, we will receive a small commission.

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February 19, 2026

Vanlife Roadmap Podcast: Ep. 1

From Basement Builds to Vanlife Outfitters  Zach Daudert on Curiosity, Camper Vans, and Building a Community the Hard Way  Vanlife rarely starts with a parts list.  For Zach Daudert, it started decades earlier – with cardboard hospitals taped together in a basement, a teenage obsession with fixing and building things, and a lifelong pull toward mobility, simplicity, and making systems work better. In the inaugural episode of the Vanlife Roadmap podcast, Zach shares the winding story that led from a childhood in Colorado to building camper vans long before “vanlife” had a name – and ultimately to founding multiple companies designed to make vanlife less overwhelming and more intentional.  This is not a story about chasing trends. It’s a story about learning through doing, solving real problems, and building something because it needed to exist. A Builder Before He Had the Language for It  Zach grew up in Greeley, Colorado, spending much of his childhood building things and imagining adult worlds long before most kids his age.  As a child, he recreated a fully mapped hospital in his parents’ basement using cardboard, masking tape, and detailed systems. There were intake forms. Recovery rooms. Even interviews with real medical professionals, recorded on cassette tapes.  Looking back, the pattern is obvious. Zach wasn’t just interested in things – he was interested in how systems worked. That instinct never left.  Living in a Van at 17 – Long Before It Was “Vanlife”  Zach built and lived in his first camper van at just 17 years old – a 1971 Volkswagen Westfalia he rebuilt with his dad and girlfriend. It wasn’t part of a movement, and it certainly wasn’t a lifestyle trend. It was simply a way to travel, see the country, and follow the Grateful Dead.  The van was basic. There was no polished interior, no optimized layout, and no online guides to follow. But it worked. It gave him freedom, mobility, and just enough shelter to stay on the road. More importantly, it taught him how much you could do with very little – and how quickly you learned what actually mattered once you started living in the space.  Looking back, that first van wasn’t about building the “right” setup. It was about movement, music, and figuring things out along the way – lessons that would quietly shape how Zach approached every van he built after that.  Learning by Doing (and Breaking Things)  As Zach lived and traveled in vans through his early adulthood, he slowly upgraded systems: • Better electrical setups  • Refrigeration instead of ice  • Plumbing scavenged from RV salvage yards  • Marine components repurposed for mobile living  Without internet resources, he learned by dismantling old RVs and studying how they worked – physically tracing systems to understand them.  This hands-on, problem-driven learning shaped a core belief that still defines Vanlife Outfitters today: The best van builds are driven by use, not just gear. Panama, Burnout, and Starting Over  After years in video production and early web development while also founding a community training and resource organization for creative professionals (Boulder Digital Arts), Zach burned out. He moved to Panama, and with the help of a 5-person Panamanian crew and ex-wife, built a home from the ground up inside the crater of an extinct volcano (El Valle de Antón), and spent years living there on and off – growing food, gardening, and stepping away from constant digital work. But vans remained part of his life. When he returned to the U.S. and decided to build a modern camper van from a blank cargo van for the first time, everything changed.  This was 2016.  There were still no clear resources. No centralized places to buy trusted parts. No clear guidance on systems design. Even basic terminology was hard to find.  So Zach did what he’d always done.  He figured it out – and he documented it.  Why the Blog Came First  Zach started a blog to share what he was learning – not because he planned to build a business, but because he knew others would run into the same problems he did.  He wrote about:  Electrical systems  Plumbing layouts  Choosing a van platform  Repurposing marine and RV components  The response surprised him. People weren’t just reading – they were asking questions. A lot of them. That revealed a deeper problem.  The Real Pain Point Wasn’t Installation – It Was Sourcing  Zach realized that one of the hardest parts of building a camper van wasn’t the physical labor – it was figuring out what to buy.  Parts were scattered across vendors who didn’t understand vanlife use cases. Shipping was unreliable. Support was poor. Builders were overwhelmed by choice and conflicting advice.  That insight became the foundation of Vanlife Outfitters.  Not as a trend play.  Not as a merch brand. [Well… he was hoping to become a t-shirt mogul.]  But as a curated store built by people who actually used the gear.  From Blog to Business – With the Right Partner  Josh Theberge was one of the early readers of Zach’s blog. He was building vans professionally during the pandemic and running into the same frustrations – just at a larger scale.  Together, they launched the Vanlife Outfitters store in 2020 with a simple promise:  • Road-tested products  • Honest guidance  • Real technical support  • A store that saves builders time, not just money  Vanlife Outfitters wasn’t built to sell everything. It was built to sell the right things.  Community Over Commerce  As Vanlife Outfitters grew, Zach and Josh kept coming back to the same realization: the vanlife community needed more than products and online advice. It needed a place to gather that actually felt like vanlife.  That idea became Peace Love & Vans. Zach explains that while vanlife events existed in other parts of the country, there was very little for the growing community on the East Coast. Rather than creating another expo or trade show, the goal was to build something different – an event centered on people, not booths.  From the start, Peace Love & Vans was designed as a camping-first experience. Vans camp together in a natural setting, not a parking lot. Conversations happen more in van “neighborhoods” than at sales tables. Music, food, and shared experiences are part of the fabric of the event, creating an environment that reflects why many people are drawn to vanlife in the first place.  Zach talks about how community is often what keeps people in vanlife long-term. Peace Love & Vans was built to support that – bringing together builders, DIYers, longtime vanlifers, and people just starting out, all on equal footing.  The result is an event that feels less like an industry showcase and more like a gathering of people who share a common way of living. It’s a reflection of the same philosophy behind Vanlife Outfitters – build things with intention, prioritize real-world use, and put community before commerce. Lessons for Anyone Building a Van Today  Zach’s advice to first-time builders is refreshingly simple:  Don’t overthink it Don’t chase perfection Get started and use the van Technology will change. Products will improve. Your second build will always be better than your first. What matters most is designing for how you’ll actually live, then making sure your systems support that reality. Electrical systems, in particular, deserve more thought than aesthetics — because they quietly determine comfort,  capability, and confidence on the road.  Why This Story Matters  Zach’s path explains why Vanlife Outfitters exists — and why it operates differently.  It wasn’t built by marketers.  It wasn’t built by trend followers.  It was built by people who spent decades facing the same questions that today’s builders are asking. And then  answering them.  Want to Hear the Full Conversation?  Listen to Episode 1 of Vanlife Roadmap to hear Zach’s story in his own words — including the mistakes, the laughter,  and the lessons learned along the way. Follow along on YouTube or wherever you listen to podcasts. If you’re planning a camper van build, exploring vanlife, or want to become a t-shirt mogul, it’s a great place to start. And if you’ve got questions about your own build, reach out. We’re always happy to help. Want to explore more? Visit the Vanlife Outfitters Store to browse gear, learn from real-world builds, and get help choosing the right setup for your own vanlife adventure.  

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February 18, 2026

Configuring your Victron system with VRM

The Victron ecosystem has very useful monitoring and configuration capabilities when a Cerbo is installed as part of your camper van electrical system. One of the benefits of purchasing a Victron system bundle from Vanlife Outfitters is your access to our expert tech support team.  Victron's Remote Monitoring (VRM) allows us to see what your system is doing, and help you remotely troubleshoot or adjust device configuration settings. The Cerbo can connect to Wi-Fi and the internet, allowing remote access to view system data and edit configuration settings of connected devices.   Settings and firmware updates can be managed for the Cerbo itself, most Victron inverters and battery chargers, all SmartSolar MPPT solar charge controllers and Victron Orion XS DC-DC controllers with VE.direct, all remotely.  This gives an extra way to do device configuration & updates from one location, vs. the typical methods of bluetooth with the Victron Connect app, or an MK3-USB cable for Multiplus inverters.   That one location is Victron’s remote monitoring portal, VRM, and it can be accessed from anywhere through the cloud. Since your camper van is typically mobile, it’s great that it can be accessible remotely. Requirements:  Good Wi-Fi connection with the Cerbo to the internet. A Windows OS machine (or virtual machine) with Victron’s VEConfigure installed. TIP: You don’t need to have always-on internet in your rig. Many customers use the VRM at home or temporarily using a hotspot if needed. Your touch screen and system will continue to work with or without internet. The Victron system will store data when not connected then upload it when you’re back home. The Cerbo’s internal antenna is not meant for long range connections, and, it’s inside your metal box van...so a strong Wi-Fi signal may be necessary. The wireless network must be a simple SSID and password login. The Cerbo can not connect to networks where a captive login webpage requires other interaction.   We highly recommend that you set up VRM following the steps below! Assuming your Cerbo is working and connected with the rest of your system, follow these steps to connect and set up VRM, and invite us to view your system. If you still need to turn on the Cerbo in the first place, and set it up for your camper van electrical system, here is a more detailed complete blog post.    https://www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/configuring-a-victron-cerbo-gx-and-connecting-with-vrm          Either way, now you should be able to view your system on VRM.  On a web browser, go to https://vrm.victronenergy.com and click on Installations, and it should look something like this:   ('Device List' and 'Remote Console' are highlighted for next steps.) Very good, you have VRM set up!  Now we can talk about using it for remote configuration!  Exciting! Using the VRM remotely from a web browser, or the Victron VRM app for Apple or Android, you can see data or change settings as if you were using the touch screen display locally. You can do this from far, far away, or you can use VRM in your camper van without needing the special MK3-USB cable that you forgot where you stashed.  When VRM is connected to your system, the Remote Console view is the same as what you see locally on the touch screen.   (Click 'Remote Console' from VRM Dashboard.)  From this screen, you can view Notifications and Settings.   (Click anywhere on the screen to show the lower toolbar icons, just like on the touchscreen in your van.) VRM Device list view, and firmware updates:   (From the VRM dashboard, click 'Device List'.)   The device list shows all connected devices. Click the ‘+’ at the right side to see info about each device (serial numbers, current firmware version, etc).   The Firmware Update button takes you to a new screen with the current firmware and the latest available version for each device.  The latest f/w should be used for starting up new systems, and sometimes firmware updates can solve certain problems on older systems. If your system is working fine and there’s no new feature that you want, then it is fine to stay with your current firmware version.  This is the easiest way to update firmware for multiple devices.  For a new system, use the latest firmware for every device. Read the messages carefully when updating firmware.   Remote configuration of devices via VRM – Multiplus inverters:   For Multiplus settings, a configuration file can be downloaded, edited locally with VEConfigure (windows OS only), then re-uploaded to the Multiplus.  Using VRM, this can be done without a special MK3-USB cable, which is the other typical way to configure a Multiplus (locally, MK3-USB cable between the inverter and laptop).  (Choose Device list, Remote VEConfigure.)    A pulldown list shows your Multiplus in case there are more than one, then choose Download.  The .rvsc configuration file with the current inverter settings will be downloaded to your local machine.   You might make a copy of the original file at this point, because VEConfigure will overwrite it with your changes.    Pre-step: install VEConfiguration tools from Victron: https://www.victronenergy.com/support-and-downloads/software     Once VEConfigure is installed, you should be able to double click the downloaded .rvsc file and VEConfigure will be launched, showing the General settings tab.   You can also open VEConfigure manually on your windows machine and select the file. This would be similar to plugging directly into the inverter with the MK3-USB cable.  The windows VEConfigure program is used to view and modify the settings.  (If you’re a Mac or Linux user, all this does work fine from windows running on a virtual machine, like VirtualBox).   If you launched VEConfigure manually, Click ‘Port selection’, ‘Fake target from file’ and choose the previously downloaded .rvsc file.   Then you should see the General settings tab as shown above.   The existing settings from your config file populate in the various tabs of VEConfigure: General tab settings shown here are fine:  60Hz for North America, the default 30a shore power inlet current limit you may want to set at 11amps to avoid tripping 15a outlet circuits with continuous charging load.   Don’t enable the battery monitor unless there is no other shunt in the system. Typically, you want the shunt to be the primary measurement of battery SOC, not the multiplus. Default values on the Grid tab should also be fine:  (Grid code: none, accept wide freq range) Settings on the Inverter tab are important!  Typically the shutdown voltages should be set slightly higher than where the battery BMS would disconnect.  Check your battery mfg recommended values, and maybe increase by .3 volts to avoid hitting the BMS disconnect threshold. The inverter should stop discharging, before the battery is totally empty, to avoid manual intervention to restart the system. For a 12v LFP system, here are reasonable settings:  (generally multiply by 2 or 4 for 24v or 48v systems, but check your battery manual for specific numbers) Low shutdown 10.4-10.7 (if under load, voltage can be lower at the Multiplus) Low restart  12.1, Low pre-alarm 12.4             (Red shows values that you have changed) Settings on the Charger tab are important!     First select Battery type. Likely you have LFP batteries.   Then adjust the Absorption voltage, Float voltage, absorption time according to your battery manufacturer’s recommendations.   The charge current should be set appropriately for your battery bank size.  Typically, with 2 or more LFP batteries, the batteries can handle more than the maximum charging output of the Multiplus 3000, so the default of 120a is good. The default settings on the Virtual switch, Assistants, Advanced tabs should be fine. Save your changes:  Choose File, Exit to quit VEConfigure, and it will ask before saving the changes (to the original file name, you don't get to change the name here).  Now your file is ready to upload back to the Multiplus via VRM.  Upload your changes to the Multiplus, via VRM:  Back in the VRM Portal device list, under the Remote VEConfigure option, select the Upload button.  Choose the .rvsc file you just modified, and click ‘OK’.   The modified .rvsc configuration file will get uploaded to the Cerbo, which will update and restart the Multiplus inverter.  Voila!  You have configured your inverter settings, remotely! Remote configuration of other devices via VRM with Victron Connect:   Typically the Victron Connect app is used on a phone or tablet to configure devices locally, communicating over bluetooth.  Once VRM is set up with the Cerbo, any devices that are connected via VE.Direct or VE.Bus can be configured remotely, running Victron Connect on a Windows PC.   (Pre-step:  Install the VictronConnect Windows program from here:  https://www.victronenergy.com/support-and-downloads/software ) Open Victron Connect on your Windows PC.  Select the VRM tab on the right, and click on your Cerbo system.   On the left, it shows your Cerbo (with a link to your VRM dashboard), and on the right, you’ll see all the other devices on your system.   Click any of these devices on the right, and Victron Connect shows the current status and settings under the upper right gear icon, as if you were connected via bluetooth.  But you’re magically far, far away!   Just click the settings you’d like to change, and click ‘OK’, presto. This works for all smart Victron devices which connect to the Cerbo via VE.Bus or VE.Direct ports.     The Multiplus shows up in the device list also, and you can see status, but the configuration settings can not be changed through VictronConnect/VRM.  Not all Orion DCDC or solar MPPT devices have VE.Direct ports, so those are limited to configuration locally via bluetooth.  Example showing Smartshunt:   Alternatively, you can open VictronConnect from the VRM web portal Device List.  There are two ways to access VictronConnect from the Device List:   Click the Blue oval highlighted button ‘Open in VictronConnect’. This will open and display the system & all devices as described above. Red highlighted buttons:  Click one of the Device List ‘+’ tabs, to see more info about that device, (the MPPT Solar Charger is selected below).  Then an ‘Open in VictronConnect’ button shows at the bottom. Click that button and VictronConnect opens for just that particular device.   So, that’s it.  Amazing technology!  You can check on your van from far away, and now you can make changes if needed. If you want to help out a friend with their Victron system, now you can do it remotely and come off like a genius.  If you purchased your electrical equipment from us (thanks!), you can take advantage of our world-class support including adding service@vanlifeoutfitters.com  to your VRM account so that we can help you troubleshoot remotely if needed. Again, that’s one of the benefits of purchasing a Victron system bundle from Vanlife Outfitters;  your access to our expert tech support team.  

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February 18, 2026

Setting up Victron's Remote Monitoring, and inviting Vanlife Outfitters to your system

How to set up Victron's Remote Monitoring for your van electrical system.  How to invite Vanlife Outfitters to view and assist you with configuring or troubleshooting.

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February 3, 2026

Troubleshooting Tips: Nations + Wakespeed Secondary Alternator No/Low Power

If your Nations + Wakespeed secondary alternator kit isn’t charging your camper van battery bank, use this post to diagnose wiring, LED states, CAN-bus settings, DVCC behavior, and RPM & temperature throttling. Symptom Likely Cause Quick Fix WS500 LED not blinking yellow/orange or not showing up in Cerbo Devices list Improper CAN bus configuration Check CAN bus wiring (including terminators) and set Cerbo CAN bus to 250 kbit/s. Engine needs to be running No power from alternator Improper wiring, especially Feature-In “white wire” Set BMS relay to Alternator ATC mode Check all wiring versus example wiring diagram Less power from alternator than expected Derating is protecting batteries or alternator Retest with low battery State of Charge Make sure electronics and alternator are appropriately cooled Alternator powering correctly but Cerbo shows “--W” or incorrect DC Load power WS500 configuration issue Ensure that firmware is up to date Check alternator shunt wiring Make sure WS500 Ignore the Local Current Sensor? setting is Off  We’re fortunate to have installed, commissioned and supported a ton of Nations + Wakespeed secondary alternator kits in our vans and customer’s rigs. What that really means is that we have experience from making a ton of simple mistakes when powering up these systems. One tricky aspect of the secondary alternator kits is that everything needs to be done correctly, otherwise no power may come out of the alternator. And well, massive power from the alternator is kind of the point. We recently posted a two-part blog series on Powering Up Your Camper Van For The First Time. Part I discusses steps to think about before or during your build, and Part II focuses on the steps to energize & configure your mobile power system. Think of this post as a special addendum for secondary alternator kit power on & troubleshooting, where we touch on common mistakes and quick fixes. Whether your system is 12 V, 24 V, or 48 V, these tips should help you. These tips focus on supported Wakespeed configurations such as Victron NG (or Smart) batteries, and like Part I says…we assume that you’ve double checked your wiring versus our example wiring diagrams. What to check first (30 second triage) Make sure that your BMS relay is set to Alternator ATC (allow-to-charge) mode. This setting can be done via Bluetooth using VictronConnect to your BMS. Without the relay mode configured, your Feature-In wiring isn’t complete. Triple check the wiring connections from the BMS to the Feature-In wire on the Wakespeed harness. If your wiring is wrong, the Wakespeed may be inhibited. Measure the Feature-In wire on the harness and you should see your system voltage when the system is running. Is your Wakespeed LED blinking a steady yellow/orange? If not, your Wakespeed is not in Sync mode to your BMS. Here’s the Wakespeed guide. Check your CAN bus connections and Victron Cerbo CAN settings. Both your BMS and your Wakespeed must be connected to the same CAN bus at the Cerbo. The CAN terminator (black for Wakespeed) is required on the unused Wakespeed port. Make sure that the appropriate Cerbo CAN bus is configured for VE.CAN & CAN-bus BMS (250 kbit/s). If these settings are correct, your Wakespeed will be visible on your Cerbo Devices list when your engine is running. Wakespeed WS500 & WS500 Pro configuration You really should understand your Wakespeed configuration, which is touched on in one of our secondary alternator system posts. With the newer WS500 Pro, either an Android or IOS device can be used. If you’re a customer with an original WS500, then it’s highly suggested to use a low-cost Android tablet for a USB OTG (On-The-Go) connection to the Wakespeed. Using the Wakespeed app, here are some quick checks: Is your firmware up to date? Wakespeed-Victron integration and features have improved over time. The Wakespeed guide linked above notes the minimum firmware version required, but we highly recommend updating both your Cerbo and Wakespeed devices to the latest revision. Make sure that DVCC is enabled on the Wakespeed. Using the Wakespeed app to Configure, in the System tab check that Support Victron DVCC? is ‘On’. Victron Cerbo: What “-- W” or negative numbers mean for alternator power Is your Cerbo reporting “-- W” for alternator power even though you’re seeing charging power into your batteries? Make sure that Ignore the Local Current Sensor? is ‘Off’ under Advanced Options in your Wakespeed app in the System tab. You’ll need to enable Expert Mode in the app settings, but you’ll need to act like an expert and follow Wakespeed’s guidance - don’t touch any of the red configuration fields unless you’ve read the manual and know what you’re doing! Why set Ignore the Local Current Sensor? to ‘Off’? Because two negatives make a positive in this case. You installed a current shunt to measure alternator power, so don’t ignore the current sensor and you’ll be seeing alternator power on your Cerbo! Is your Cerbo reporting negative power from the alternator? Check your gray & purple wires on the Wakespeed harness, and check the inline fuses too. The purple wire connects to the shunt on the alternator side, while the gray wire connects to the shunt on the battery side. If those wires are reversed, your regulator is reading the current backwards. You can either swap those wires physically or use the Wakespeed app to fix it - that’s why there’s a Is shunt backwards? setting in the System tab. Are you getting throttled? More tips for limited output power Make sure that Wakespeed DIP switch 8 hasn’t been inadvertently set to On, which forces the regulator into Small Alternator mode which has reduced power. Are your batteries already charged? If your Victron batteries have a State of Charge above the SoC Threshold in the BMS, then the algorithm controlling charging may be throttling charging power and optimizing your battery lifecycle performance. Don’t fret! Let your battery bank discharge, then try again to see if you’re getting the alternator charging power you expect. Don’t forget that secondary alternator performance is proportional to engine RPMs. Especially if you have 24 V or 48 V secondary alternators with limited idle power expectations, give the engine some gas before testing your output power. Also don’t forget that the Wakespeed Engine Warmup Delay needs at least 30 seconds, so give it some time and then some RPMs! Alternator temperature also impacts charging power. The Wakespeed will automatically reduce field drive and derate the alternator as temperatures increase, which leads to reduced power. You can check the alternator temperature from your Cerbo under Devices. Reduced power may be an expected situation to preserve the lifespan of your alternator! Safety reminder: Your power distribution may be energized by any of your charging sources, not just your secondary alternator. Ensure that all charging sources are disabled before conducting maintenance such as checking wiring. Use caution near hot items such as the alternator or electronics, and adhere to safety warnings such as spinning belts in the engine compartment. Got power now? Yay! If not, then bummer. But don’t worry, feel free to reach out to us because we’re here to help. Our tech support team will happily talk to you about the ways we’ve messed up building our systems. But then we’ll ask for pictures of your system, want you to get connected to VRM, and probably have you start working on a log file. You’ll be happily driving around recharging your system with massive power in no time! FAQ: Getting Power From Your Secondary Alternator System 1. What is the most common mistake in powering on my secondary alternator?Feature-In wiring is the most common issue leading to no power from a secondary alternator system. Check the ‘white wire’ wiring and make sure your BMS relay is set to Alternator ATC mode. 2. How do I connect to my Wakespeed regulator?WS500 Pro users can use Bluetooth to connect with the Wakespeed Configuration and Monitoring Utility App (IOS or Android). WS500 users require a physical USB connection using the App (Android) or software on a Windows PC. A low-cost Android tablet is highly recommended! 3. What are the Wakespeed LED blink codes?The Wakespeed regulator has a multi-colored LED. Somewhat surprisingly, a blinking yellow/orange LED is the desired blink code. Green LEDs means that your Wakespeed is not in Sync with your Victron Cerbo - check your CAN wiring and Cerbo CAN bus configuration. Red flashes are Error/Advisory codes - use the Wakespeed manual to identify the blink code and start troubleshooting. 4. Why am I getting reduced power from my Nations + Wakespeed system?Typical reasons to get some, but not full, power from your secondary alternator system are temperature derating, high State of Charge (SoC) on your batteries, and incorrect expectations of idle power. 5. Why does my Cerbo show “--W” for alternator power?The system needs an alternator shunt to measure alternator power, so that’s one reason we highly recommend wiring in a shunt. To see the shunt measurements on your Cerbo, make sure that Ignore the Local Current Sensor? is configured to ‘Off’ using the Wakespeed app. Related Resources  Powering Up Your Camper Van Electrical System The First Time!: Part I and Part II Secondary Alternator System Blogs and Diagrams: 12 Volts, 24 Volts, and 48 Volts Nations + Wakespeed Secondary Alternator Kit and Electrical System Bundle Wakespeed basic configuration video

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December 7, 2025

Kick The Tires And Light The Fires: Turning On Your Camper Van Electrical System For The First Time! Part 2

If you’re building a camper van electrical system, or planning your vanlife power setup, the first power-up is a big milestone. This blog is Part II of a two-part series on powering up your camper van electrical system for the first time. Part I discusses steps to think about before or during your build, and Part II focuses on the steps to energize & configure your mobile power system. To be honest, planning for & commissioning your electrical system is a process, so if you missed Part I, give it a read first before diving in here. This blog hopes to provide some of the why to go along with the what when commissioning your electrical system. Your build is progressing, and you're almost ready to Turn. It. On. Does it feel a bit daunting? Turning your electrical system on for the first time can be as exciting as putting that first hole in your new rig. How many times did you measure before you cut? Working methodically to power your system on is the same idea! It's going to be okay, and here is a checklist for getting your system up and running. Every system is different, and you can find a bunch of different how-tos on the interwebs. Some manufacturers provide commissioning steps in their manuals too, as an example this procedure is a good list even if you don't have a Victron BMS. You did read the manuals for your equipment, right?  Here’s our take on a solid approach to getting your electrical system up and running. Double check At long last, can we finally get on with the steps? Yes, of course, as long as you consider checking your connections as part of the turn up sequence. Incorrect wiring can cause damage. This section is called double check, but we really mean triple check.  Step 1 - Test Your Lugs, Terminals & Ferrules Check that your lugs and ferrules are done properly. You are not trying to treat those connections with "kid gloves" either. If you can yank on a lug and it comes off, that's not good! You're relying on those connections to handle high currents and keep you safe. Lugs, ferrules and terminals should be secure and difficult if not impossible to remove with a simple pull.  Let’s briefly touch on ferrules too, which can be new or difficult for some customers. Since tinned, stranded wire from brands like Ancor is preferred for environmental & vibration tolerance (e.g. your safety!) in mobile power systems, wire ends for screw terminal connections should use a ferrule. Generally, a hex ratcheting ferrule tool is preferred, as the round shape formed after the crimp fits best in most screw & spring clamp terminals. In some cases, for instance with the Orion XS DC-DC chargers using the recommended 6 AWG wire in our free example wiring diagrams, only a hex crimped ferrule will fit (and a square crimped ferrule will not due to the resulting shape). The Victron Multiplus II inverter/charger AC terminal blocks require 18 mm bootlace ferrules that are longer than what is provided in most ferrule kits, and using shorter ferrules may cause the terminal block spring clamps to come loose. Do yourself a favor and use the correct ferrules, even if you need to go replace a few connections before powering on your system. Part of double checking can include learning that a few minor changes can go a long way to improving the safety and reliability of your system.  Step 2 - Properly Tighten Your Connections Not only do your connectors need to be done properly, but those connections must be tightened properly. Properly means that you're not a tire jockey tightening nuts with your air wrench! Whether it's Victron, Blue Sea, or any other manufacturer, your device manual provides torque specifications for the connections. So, please use a torque wrench! Step 3 - Review Every Connection in Your Wiring Diagram Review your wiring diagram. Review our complete set of example wiring diagrams. Depending on your system, you may use sections from more than one diagram. We recommend printing out your diagram(s), then highlight each wire & connection as you go through the double check on your system. While you're in the diagram, you did note all of the case & chassis case grounds, right? These safety connections are not optional. Check your MPPT case ground, your Multiplus PE connection, and of course your vehicle chassis ground connection.  Step 4 - Check Your Fuses & Breakers Are all your fuses and safety devices installed? Remember that a fuse is sized to protect the wire. Double check that the correct fuse rating is installed in every location. Check your circuit breaker sizes too, and since we're almost ready to turn things on, go ahead and flip those breakers to the off position for now. Here's a quick tip for the Lynx Distributor: if you're not using every Mega fuse position in the Distributor, the LED will remain orange and not a happy green. With a Lynx Shunt or Lynx BMS connected to a Lynx Distributor, an empty Mega fuse slot will show up as an alarm because a blown fuse (i.e. an open fuse) looks no different than a missing fuse. We recommend mounting spare fuses in your unused Mega fuse slots. Hopefully you'll never need them, but maybe you'll be glad to have one handy in the future.  Step 5 - Test Wiring with a Multimeter Use a multimeter to triple check those connections. Just to be clear, we're doing all of these checks before the system is energized! Check each load branch wiring for no "dead shorts", where the power and ground wires should show resistance and not be shorted together. Same for the AC wiring, where the hot and neutral should not be shorted. (Keep in mind that a Multiplus inverter/charger contains a ground relay that automatically connects neutral to the chassis ground if no AC input is supplied, so those AC wires may read as shorted.) Step 6 - Wrap It Up As you are wrapping up your double checks, it’s a good time to cover any exposed terminals to prevent damage from any accidental tool drop. Dress your cables with cable ties to minimize vibration and torque on equipment connections. Checklist for your wires and safety devices Test & inspect that you properly crimped your lugs, terminals, and ferrules Check that your connections are torqued to manufacturer specifications Review your wiring diagram and mark off that all wiring connections are as intended Check that your fuses & breakers are sized properly Test wiring for shorts & opens using a multimeter Install cable housings and cover any exposed terminals Finally! This is the moment where it all comes together. Start will all equipment switches turned off. Make sure the master battery switch or contactor in your BMS is off. If needed, temporarily remove fuses to keep sources and loads un-powered. Make sure your Multiplus inverter/charger switch is in the off position.  As a reminder from Part I, we’re presuming that your batteries are fully charged before reaching this step. Work methodically! If something doesn't look right as you go through the steps, stop and assess. It's okay to power down, make a fix, and start over. And if you listened to our guidance for working on a testbed prior to a full camper van system, do as many steps as feasible...then get back to testing & building that rig!  Here is our recommended turn-on procedure: 1) If your batteries have an on/off switch, go ahead and turn them on. If your system has a BMV-712, check your battery bank voltage now. Also check your battery using the manufacturer’s app if it has Bluetooth support. You’re looking to confirm that the batteries have no alarms and show very similar voltage readings. This tells you that your battery bank is successfully connected and ready to serve as an energy source for your system. 2) Turn the master switch or contactor on. Use a multimeter and check the voltage on your Lynx Distributor, it should (nearly) match your charged battery voltage. Use the battery and/or BMS app to check the battery voltage, current (should be a low number), and status. If you haven't already, make sure your battery BMS firmware is up to date.  Some customers with a Victron BMS may run into a snag here and notice a pre-charge error. The BMS can be sensitive to capacitance and loads, particularly in complex systems with a Multiplus inverter/charger, a secondary alternator, or many other connections on the Lynx Distributor. If you get a pre-charge error, first check for real problems such as a short or incorrect connection on the distribution. If the connections are okay, you may need a simple workaround to sidestep the pre-charge error. One method is to enable one of your charging sources (see Step 4) to power-on the distribution side of the BMS before enabling the BMS contactor. This workaround pre-charges the distribution with a source other than the batteries through the BMS, therefore the BMS will correctly finish its turn-on sequence with no errors. Most customers can leave their system in on or standby modes after the commissioning steps are complete, so the pre-charge workaround is just a temporary annoyance. 3) If you have a Cerbo GX, it should be powered-up through your distribution. On your touch screen or app, check your Devices list and make sure your battery monitor is reading properly. This confirms that your shunt connection (either VE.Direct to a SmartShunt or CAN to a BMS) is correctly done. If your batteries have "Victron communications", also check your Cerbo Devices list to verify that your battery(ies) are present. You may need to change the CAN bus profile setting in your Cerbo GX to match your batteries and get Victron communications established. 3plus) Give your Cerbo GX some internet access! This step helps provide troubleshooting information for all the subsequent steps and makes it easy for you (and easy for us to help you). Ultimately, get access to your electrical system using the VRM as discussed in this blog. Using the touchscreen, connect to a WiFi network and set up the VRM. Make sure your Cerbo has the latest firmware.  4) Turn on charging sources one at a time. The order of charging sources to enable is not critical, but we suggest prioritizing the Multiplus inverter/charger, solar, DC-DC charger(s), then the secondary alternator kit. For each charging source, use the following steps: Check your battery monitor. Charging current should increase (and be a positive value) when the charging source is on.  Check your Cerbo Devices list to make sure the device is communicating with your system. Update the firmware. Check and/or update the configuration to match manufacturer specifications. Periodically check your cables by hand or with a thermal imager. When charging heavily, some cables may be warm to the touch but not crazy hot.  After checking one charging source, turn that source off and iterate on a different charging source. Keep it simple and methodical to safely check each part of your system. Once you've individually checked out each charging source, then you're ready to turn on multiple charging sources.  There are some things to watch out for when turning on your charging sources.  Apply battery power and turn on your Multiplus before connecting shore power. Here are some tips for programming your Multiplus.  Charger settings: The devices do not come preconfigured for lithium batteries, so change that charge profile!  Inverter settings: We recommend that the low voltage shutdown thresholds are set slightly higher than your BMS low voltage disconnect value. The inverter should turn off before completely discharging the battery bank, which could turn off your entire system. General settings: The default AC input current limit is 50 Amps, which is too high for most DIY garages & driveways using a standard 15 Amp household receptacle. Set that current limit before applying shore power, and let's not pop your circuit breaker or potentially damage your shiny new Multiplus, please?!   We touched on solar in this blog. Your Victron MPPT PV (photovoltaic) voltage must be 5 Volts higher than your battery voltage for a charge cycle to start. Check that your alternator-based charging sources turn off when the engine is off but turn on when the engine is on. You want to ensure that your camper van starter batteries are not depleted by leaving a DC-DC charger on with the engine off. Our Victron & Sterling DC-DC chargers can be configured to detect voltages, detect vibration, and/or utilize external "remote" on/off connections to keep your van's two battery systems properly isolated.  VictronConnect tip: After connecting to a MPPT or DC-DC converter via Bluetooth using the VictronConnect app, if your device is powered on but in the off state (i.e. not charging), you will see a Why is the charger off? line on the status page. Victron tells you the reason your device isn't charging, and that can be pretty handy! Even with your battery switch or BMS contactor open, any charging source that is enabled will energize your Lynx Distributor. Why? Because your charging sources and your loads are interconnected on your distributor. Your master battery switch or BMS contactor separates energy stored in your battery bank from the distributor but does not disconnect the other sources of power. Be cautious while testing or doing maintenance, and make sure that all batteries and charge sources are off when required.  DVCC tip: DVCC is an algorithm running in your Cerbo that intelligently coordinates your smart charging sources to provide only the charging current desired by your batteries & BMS. It's not quite magic, but testing with DVCC enabled can yield confusing results. Typically, if your batteries are mostly full (above the SoC threshold, State of Charge in your battery monitor), then your charging source(s) may be throttled to optimize battery lifecycles. Don't panic if your DC-DC charger doesn't put out a full 50 Amps in that case. Another source of throttling is heat, so testing mid-summer in high ambient temperatures may limit charging performance. You may need to move on to the next step, enabling loads to discharge your battery bank with charging sources off, then return to re-examine your charging performance with a lower battery SoC.   Need troubleshooting help? Don’t forget the cutting it in half approach as discussed in Part I. Our tech support team has tons of vanlife experience, so we’re here to help too. 5) Turn on loads one by one. Work through your checklist of all AC and DC loads. For each load, check with a voltmeter and look at your battery monitor or touch screen display. You should see an appropriate increase in AC or DC Wattage for each load. If your load reporting looks incorrect, double check your cabling, especially the chassis ground. Only the battery cables should be on the Battery Minus terminal of your BMS & shunt, and every other connection (like chassis ground!) should be on the distributor side. As with your charging sources, inspect your distribution and load cables & connections for excessive heat. 6) Check your battery monitor (i.e. shunt). Now that you can comfortably charge and discharge your batteries, make sure that your battery monitor is properly configured. In Victron-speak, you want to allow a successful synchronization so that the battery monitor correctly reports your SoC. After the first power up, the battery monitor may not show the correct SOC. To reach a synchronization (which can be checked using the VictronConnect app under History), first discharge the batteries to around 50% SoC using your loads, then turn off your loads and charge the batteries to 100% using a charging source (such as shore power which typically provides the fastest charging). Allow your system to complete a full lithium charging profile, transitioning from absorption (higher, constant current) to float (low current, constant voltage). If your battery monitor reports 100% SoC and shows a synchronization event, your battery monitor is properly configured and will provide correct SoC reporting. This step also ensures that any paralleled batteries in your battery bank are balanced, promoting equal sharing of the charging sources and loads from your batteries to prolong battery lifecycles.   7) Use your system and enjoy! Take advantage of the VictronConnect app and VRM to monitor your system performance.  While this blog is about turning on your system for the first time, many customers are already thinking ahead about maintenance & battery storage. Self-discharge of lithium batteries is quite low, so typically we recommend that you don’t need to completely turn off your system when not in use. If you have internet access and are using the VRM, then leaving your system on and idle is quite helpful for remotely checking in on your rig. You may find it handy to turn your Multiplus inverter/charger to Charger mode, which disables the inverter and saves you the 20-30 Watts of idle power from being constantly consumed while you’re not using your system.  To maximize your battery lifecycles, it’s recommended that lithium batteries are stored between 50%-70% SoC. Most importantly, lithium batteries have improved lifecycles when not exposed to high currents near 100% SoC. In other words, don’t leave your system plugged into a charging source constantly with your batteries at 100% SoC.  If you have a system with Victron NG or Smart batteries with DVCC enabled, the good news is that your system is automatically being optimized and you don’t need to take any special storage precautions. Victron automatically keeps the SoC optimized while allowing charging to 100% once per month, which keeps the battery cells balanced. For more basic or value battery-based systems, you may need to be a little more mindful about lithium battery storage. You may wish to manually enable/disable charging sources to manage your battery SoC. If you can store your electrical system with shore power, an alternative is to adjust your configuration profile to a lower absorption voltage that will limit charging to around 70%. Don’t forget that you need to charge up to 100% every month or so to keep those battery cells balanced. Change your system configuration into normal mode to allow charging up to 100%, then return to a storage mode configuration until you’re ready to use that rig. Don’t forget to change back to normal mode to get the most performance out of your electrical system while you’re on that trip! Super-condensed power-on checklist Start will all loads and charging sources off Pre-charge your batteries and make parallel connections before turning batteries or battery switch on At each step of your power-on, use your device’s Bluetooth app and a multimeter to check status & power. Also check for excessive cable heating Use your battery monitor to check battery voltage, status, and current Update firmware on each device as you go If applicable, use your Cerbo to check that device communications are established. Set up your Cerbo VRM for remote monitoring and troubleshooting Turn on charging sources one at a time. Test each charging source by itself before using multiple charging sources together Turn on loads one at a time After checking your charging sources and loads, take your system through several discharge then charge cycles to balance your batteries and synchronize your battery monitor Don’t forget that storing & maintaining your batteries should be done at a lower State of Charge than your typical 100% pre-trip SoC Summary Successfully powering up your camper van electrical system for the first time is all about being methodical. There are four major steps in planning for & commissioning your system: Prepare your batteries Get familiar with your system with bench testing & incremental building Double check your wiring and connections Power up your batteries, charging sources, and loads in an orderly fashion, checking for voltage & heat at each step. Configure each device as you go. FAQ: Commissioning & Configuring Your Camper Van Electrical System What should I check before powering up my electrical system?Inspect every lug and ferrule, check torque specs, confirm correct fuse ratings, and use a multimeter to ensure there are no shorts between positive and negative wires. How do I safely turn on my camper van electrical system for the first time?Start with all switches off. Confirm battery charge and all connections before powering up. Power on your batteries then the master switch. Verify voltage before enabling charging sources or loads. How do I configure my Victron Multiplus inverter/charger for lithium batteries?Use the Victron VEConfigure software to change the charge profile to lithium, set inverter low-voltage shutdown slightly above your BMS cutoff, and reduce the AC input current limit to suit your shore-power source. What recommended order should I turn on my charging sources?Start with the Multiplus inverter/charger, then solar MPPT, DC-DC chargers, and finally any secondary alternator kit. Test one at a time before enabling them together. Why is my Victron BMS showing a pre-charge error?This can happen when capacitance or load prevents proper pre-charge. First check that there are no shorts on your Lynx Distributor. Enable one charging source to energize the distribution side before closing the BMS contactor, then retry. How do I synchronize my Victron battery monitor (BMV-712 / SmartShunt / Lynx Shunt / BMS)?Make sure to use a lithium-ion charging profile on your charger. Discharge batteries to ~50% SoC, then fully recharge until absorption transitions to float. Once the monitor shows 100% SoC and logs a “synchronization” event, calibration is complete. This can take some time, so be patient. How should I store lithium batteries in my camper van? Keep between 50–70 % SoC, avoid continuous charging at 100 %, and store in moderate temperatures. Systems with DVCC or Victron Smart / NG BMS manage this automatically.

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November 19, 2025

The Calm Before The Storm: Powering Up Your Camper Van Electrical System The First Time! Part 1

If you’re building a camper van electrical system, or planning your vanlife power setup, the first power-up is a big milestone. This blog is Part I of a two-part series on powering up your electrical system for the first time. Part I discusses steps to think about before or during your build. We hope you’ll give this a read, hopefully before you need Part II that focuses on the steps to power up & configure your mobile power system. To be honest, planning for & commissioning your electrical system should be an iterative process, so give both parts a read and let’s get to it. This blog hopes to provide some of the why to go along with the what when planning for your camper van electrical system. Planning for that first power-up involves two major pieces. One step is having your batteries charged & ready. The second step is a bit more involved, and that’s thinking ahead (thus the planning keyword) and gaining familiarity with your equipment as part of a testbed. Prepare your batteries We recommend charging your batteries before wiring them into your camper van electrical system. If you have batteries in series (not something we recommend often at this point with great battery options available at 24 and 48 Volts), then charging the batteries & balancing the internal cells is required. Here's an excerpt from Victron on why, and yes this is a prod to Read. The. Manual. for all of your equipment. The Victron manuals are an exceptional resource, and reading through your manuals makes sure that you understand the features, installation requirements, and safety guidelines for your equipment. When using batteries in parallel, it's still a good idea to charge them first. Charging those batteries individually is a good idea too. After charging, check each battery’s voltage with a multimeter to confirm that they are at the same voltage. It’s typically not possible to get them exactly the same, but charging with 0.1 Volt (closer is better!) is sufficient. Charging each battery separately to the same voltage helps minimize current flow between batteries when they are later connected in parallel, which is important to prevent damage caused by high currents from connecting different voltages. Lithium batteries are not shipped fully charged, so charging your batteries also provides more capacity so that you don't feel rushed during the steps covered later in this blog when turning on your equipment. Deeply discharging your batteries, also referred to as undervoltage, can be damaging to lithium batteries (moreso than overcharging that is typically protected by the BMS!), so there's another reason to give yourself plenty of margin during your turn on process. It's critical that your batteries are charged with a proper charge cycle, and the batteries should be charged through your Battery Management System (BMS). If you have selected batteries with an external BMS, that means you need to connect your battery and BMS to charge each battery. Whether your lithium battery has an external or internal BMS, use a charger with a lithium-ion profile and be careful to monitor temperature and overcharging during this step. This is a perfect segue into the next step (or is it the first step?!), which is working on a testbed for your electrical system.  If your batteries have Bluetooth and an app, this would be a good time to use it. Connect to each battery and look at the status.  Do your batteries say fully charged (100% State of Charge, SOC) and balanced? Yay! Some customers find it easiest to use an external battery charger to initially charge their batteries. Using an external charger is simple - just plug into a standard AC receptacle for power and allow each battery to go through a complete charge cycle (go through a bulk stage and get to the low current float stage in lithium batteries). If the compelling reasons to build a testbed below don't sell you, then an external battery charger may also be your best option to get those batteries charged before turning on your system. Our recommendation is to combine a test setup with your initial charging step, and use one of your system charging sources (particularly your Multiplus inverter/charger) to initially charge each battery. More on that now...    Checklist for preparing your batteries Charge each battery individually using a full lithium-ion profile Use a multimeter to check each battery voltage Confirm BMS status and 100% SoC using the Bluetooth app Testing, testing, 1, 2 This camper van build is already a ton of work, and now you're suggesting that I build it twice!? To some degree, yes. If you're finding this blog after your build is done, then you could skip this section. Hopefully you'll read on and see why testing early is important and helpful. Bench testing doesn't mean that you have to build a complete system either. Go piecemeal. Our recommendation is to slowly add one piece of equipment at a time. Start with your batteries and BMS, add your Distributor, add a charging source, then turn add & turn on a load. Continue that methodical approach with other charging sources & additional loads. If you choose, test something then tear it down and test something else. You don’t need your testbed fully functioning, for example it’s okay to add a DC-DC charger or MPPT without the “source” connection. Your device will still turn on once energized, and you can start using your equipment and complete the configuration step. The whole point is to get familiar with your (future) system. Why bench test? Practice the physical connections. This is your chance to get familiar with the connections on your equipment. Many customers are stripping, crimping, and properly torquing cables for the first time. It's perfectly reasonable to throw away a test lug or two...aren't you better at something after a little practice? Particularly with the high current connections in these electrical systems, it's important that the connections are done properly. Learn that your layout can be improved. After assembling some of your equipment, it's just easier to visualize how it all fits together. How do I minimize my battery cable lengths? Gee, these 4/0 cables need a bend radius. Maybe a ML Link would be easier than a cable? Oh, the touchscreen cables aren't long enough, and it needs to be closer to my Cerbo. These are just some examples of lessons learned that are easier to resolve before your build is underway. Forget something? Testing and using your equipment before your build is "done" can reduce your panic later. Need fuses for your Lynx distributor? Need an extra VE.Direct cable so your equipment can communicate? Have everything in imperial (SAE) but one item has to be metric...and you're off to the store again. It's easier to troubleshoot and resolve issues in a testbed. Moving cables, accessing equipment, or even starting over is so much simpler before the equipment is installed in your rig. And if you’re following our advice to incrementally build & test equipment, problems are presented immediately with an obvious example of cause and effect.  The manufacturer says so. We've already discussed why you should charge your batteries first. Nomadic says "always bench test AC unit before installing". Other vendors do too. Yeah, we know, those annoying manuals again. Work through failures early. Yes, we had to go there. Sometimes a mistake is made, and you need a new fuse, or worse, a new piece of equipment. Didn't notice some shipping damage inside the box? Some unlucky few experience the dreaded Dead On Arrival equipment, which is quite rare but a super bummer to deal with. Find out early by bench testing, and don't wait until you're rushing to be ready for that first road trip.  Consider purchasing a small power supply (bonus tip: the external battery charger discussed above can also operate as a power supply to run DC loads). With a power supply, you can test easily without worrying about your battery cycles. Run your water pump and test those fittings, get familiar with your Cerbo and get the VRM ready for troubleshooting, trial your LED lighting or dimmer switches, the list is endless, but building familiarity with your equipment will save time & heartache later once it's in your rig.  If you're still not sold on a separate testbed, then at least consider building and testing your system incrementally rather than all at once. It's so much easier to isolate problems when something works, you add a piece of equipment, then something doesn't work. That narrows down your focus to what's new rather than staring at a complete system with no clue as to where to begin.  These electrical systems can be complex, and despite a methodical approach some problems may not be easy to identify. In case you run into problems, here’s a super secret (not really) testing tip: make a complex problem easier to solve by cutting it in half, meaning make methodical changes to remove components and narrow down the potential problem. This is also called divide and conquer. Some ways to cut it in half may be to: Remove charging sources one by one. If the problem persists, a removed source isn't likely to be your problem, or if the problem is resolved, that recently removed source may be your issue. Remove loads one by one. Same idea as removing charging sources: is a particular load causing you trouble?  Replace a source or a load with an identical copy. This approach can help rule out physical or device problems, but be careful that software or configuration of many devices can be related to the problem. If you replace one device with an identically configured copy and the problem changes, then you're making progress towards finding the culprit. If you replace one device with an identically configured copy and the problem doesn't change, you may not have learned anything, or maybe it's time to try configuration changes. Change firmware versions or software configuration items one at a time. Change, test, repeat. Change, test, repeat. If you change 27 settings at one time and something behaves differently...did you identify the problem or just change the scenario? Or even if you did come across a configuration setting that was important, which of those 27 settings was the one?  Whether you’re working on your testbed or in your rig, our tech support team is always available to help you, and you don’t have to wait until you’re “done” to reach out to us. In fact, it’s probably easier on you and us if you’ve been working methodically and have more info to get us started than ‘it’s broke,fix it’.  The bottom line is that after building a testbed you're going to be better at doing something the second time than the first. You’ll be comfortable with your equipment, you’ll have confidence in your system, and you’ll be off enjoying vanlife on your first road trip sooner by planning ahead before powering up your system for the first time. Common mistakes to avoid Not using bench testing to improve your van’s build - practice those connections first, and any bench test error is simply a “lesson learned” that will make your build better and safer Building out everything, then being overwhelmed about where to start - it’s okay to be methodical and build confidence in yourself as you incrementally build & test your system Making access for maintenance difficult or impossible - connections need to be periodically inspected, or maybe you realized that a mistake was made during commissioning. Do yourself a favor and plan ahead for the capability to access & inspect your equipment after install. Summary It’s important to plan ahead before powering on your camper van electrical system for the first time. Charging your lithium batteries fully with a proper charge cycle gets you prepared to start connecting other equipment. We suggest you work methodically and consider a testbed prior to your van build, or alternatively build & use your power system iteratively. Using a testbed helps you: practice the physical connections plan an optimal layout of your components configure and test your equipment make it easy to troubleshoot issues Next Step Ready to power up? Check out Part II for step-by-step guidance on commissioning and configuration.  FAQ: Powering Up Your Camper Van Electrical System for the First Time 1. Why should I charge my camper-van batteries before installation? Lithium batteries are typically shipped partially charged, not full. Charging them before installation ensures all cells are balanced and the voltages match across batteries. This prevents high current surges when connecting them in parallel and gives you full capacity when testing or powering on your system for the first time. 2. Do I need to charge each lithium battery separately? Yes – it’s best to charge each battery individually until their voltages are similar, at least within about 0.1 Volt of each other. Doing this minimizes current flow between batteries when connected in parallel and reduces stress on your system. It’s also a great opportunity to verify that each battery and BMS is functioning properly. 3. What’s the safest way to charge lithium batteries for a van build? Use a charger designed for lithium-ion profiles and always charge through the Battery Management System (BMS). Monitor temperature and voltage to avoid overcharging. Many builders use an external charger or their inverter/charger (like a Victron Multiplus) to perform the first full charge. 4. What is “bench testing” or a “testbed” for a camper-van electrical system? Bench testing means assembling and powering your electrical components on a workbench before installing them in your van. It lets you practice making cable connections, confirm proper wiring, configure settings, and verify that devices communicate and operate as expected. This reduces installation surprises and makes troubleshooting far easier. 5. How do I build a simple testbed for my van electrical system? Start small. Connect your batteries and BMS first, then add one component at a time – a distributor, then a charging source, and then loads. Power up each addition separately to confirm correct operation. You can use an external power supply to run loads without cycling your batteries. 6. What are the benefits of testing my system before full installation? Testing early helps you: Practice safe, solid cable terminations Optimize layout and cable lengths Confirm that your components communicate properly Catch missing parts or incompatibilities Identify defective equipment before it’s permanently installed 7. What are common mistakes when turning on a van electrical system for the first time? Skipping the initial battery charge and balance Connecting batteries with mismatched voltages Over-tightening or under-torquing high-current connections Failing to label or document cable routes Powering up everything at once instead of one step at a time 8. How can I troubleshoot issues during the first power-up? Take a divide and conquer approach: Remove charging sources or loads one at a time to isolate the issue Replace a suspect component with a known-good on. Revert firmware or configuration changes step-by-step Use your device apps (e.g., VictronConnect or VRM) to check for abnormal readings 9. When should I reach out for help with my van electrical system? If you’re unsure, don’t wait until something goes poorly. Contact our Technical Support Team before you’re “done.” We can help confirm settings, review the manuals, and troubleshoot issues faster when you’ve been testing methodically.

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October 23, 2025

Mike's Van Build Podcast: Ep. 9

The Grand Reveal – Mike’s Finished Adventure Van After months of planning, building, and dreaming, the van is finally complete. In the finale of Mike’s Van Build Podcast, we join Mike inside his fully finished camper van — a rolling home that perfectly blends craftsmanship, creativity, and comfort. What started as an empty cargo shell is now an adventure-ready rig, designed for two and dialed in for years of travel ahead. The Big Moment Mike and Amy arrived at Site Seven for the long-awaited pickup — greeted by their new van shining under the shop lights, awning extended, and every feature in place. The reaction said it all: pure excitement and gratitude as months of vision came to life. The reveal was more than just emotional, as it showed what’s possible when design, collaboration, and expertise meet. From fabrics and trim to lighting and cabinetry, every detail reflected the thoughtful planning that defined this build. What’s Inside Now that the van’s been tested on several short trips, the results are in — and everything works beautifully. Fold-out Bed System: Converts from a single to a queen in seconds, offering flexibility for solo trips or weekends for two. Dual Bench Seating: Designed for both dining and lounging, with smart access to hidden storage and electrical components. Upgraded Electrical System: The secondary alternator delivers impressive off-grid performance, recharging batteries quickly on the road. Functional Kitchen Design: A recessed faucet, removable butcher block cover, and durable countertop make the space easy to use and maintain. Lighting & Controls: Gorgeous ceiling panels, dimmable LED lighting, and touchscreen controls bring a modern, cohesive feel to the interior. Every inch of the space is purposeful — practical for adventure, comfortable for everyday use, and adaptable for the unknowns ahead. Built for Real Life Beyond comfort, the van is built for action. The upgraded suspension smooths rough roads, while the manual awning and exterior lighting make camp setup effortless. The bike rack, exterior shower, and smart garage layout let Mike and Amy haul gear, wash up, and store essentials without compromise. Even better — the same space doubles as a cargo hauler. Within a week of pickup, the van had already been used for garden projects, carrying lumber, plants, and even a small tree. Ready for the Road Ahead Mike and Amy’s first big adventure was a North Carolina waterfall loop, followed by camping trips and music festivals this fall. The van will serve as their home base, retreat, and workspace while they travel — powered by Starlink and packed with everything they need to hit the road. Their biggest takeaway from the build processes are to know your builder, test your design ideas, and take time to plan before you buy parts or make big decisions. Key Products Featured in Episode 9 Secondary Alternator Wakespeed Regulator Victron Energy Power System Fiamma Manual Awning Starlink Roof Mount Webasto Heater with Smart Temp Controller 3.0             .    .   The van is complete — but the journey continues. Follow along on YouTube or wherever you listen to podcasts as Mike takes his new rig on the open road. Share with a van-curious friend. And if you’ve got questions about your own build, reach out. We’re always happy to help. Want to explore more? Visit the Vanlife Outfitters Store to browse gear, learn from real-world builds, and get help choosing the right setup for your own vanlife adventure.

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October 16, 2025

Mike's Van Build Podcast: Ep. 8

Building for Two – Designing a Camper Van That Works for a Couple Living small takes teamwork. In Episode 8 of Mike’s Van Build Podcast, we explore what it means to design a camper van for two people — balancing comfort, personal space, and function while keeping that signature “home on wheels” feeling. This episode brings a fresh perspective on not just how a van is built, but how it’s shared. Living Together in a Tiny Space When two people travel together, every square inch matters. After years of adventures — from tiny cabins to multiple vans — Mike and Amy learned what works for them and what doesn’t. The new build emphasizes efficiency with a fold-up bed that creates instant living space, hidden benches instead of bulky furniture, and smart storage so everything tucks neatly away. It’s not about having more things — it’s about making sure everything serves a purpose and contributes to daily flow. The “Home” Feeling For them, comfort isn’t about luxury — it’s about warmth. They chose layered textures, bold colors, and soft lighting to make the van feel lived-in and personal. Multiple windows bring in sunlight, while dimmable, warm-white lights set the evening mood. Everything from the countertops to the upholstery was selected to feel cozy, not clinical. As they described it, the goal was simply to open the door and instantly feel, “We’re home.” Smart Design for Real Life A key theme in this episode is designing around how they actually live. They ditched the built-in stove for a portable propane cooktop, cook mostly outdoors under the awning, and freed up counter space for food prep. Instead of a fixed table, they added removable surfaces and multi-use benches that can switch between dining, working, and relaxing. Even the decision to skip a traditional bathroom was intentional — reclaiming that space for storage and daily living instead. Lessons for Other Vanlife Couples Their advice for anyone building a van with a partner is to decide early on what truly matters. Choose three or four “non-negotiables” — the things you can’t live without — and design around them. Everything else can flex. Designing for two isn’t about compromise; it’s about creating a rhythm that lets you travel in sync. Key Features Highlighted in Episode 8 Fold-up bed for flexible living space Dual bench seating with removable table Textured fabrics and warm colors for comfort Dimmable LED lighting throughout Portable propane stove and exterior cook setup Oversized windows for natural light Thoughtful storage solutions   Ready to ride along?Check back weekly for new episodes and subscribe on YouTube or your favorite podcast app so you don’t miss what’s next. This van build — and this podcast — is just getting started. Share with a van-curious friend. And if you’ve got questions about your own build, reach out. We’re always happy to help. Want to explore more? Visit the Vanlife Outfitters Store to browse gear, learn from real-world builds, and get help choosing the right setup for your own vanlife adventure.  

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