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Vanlife Roadmap Podcast: Ep. 2
From Miami Status to Boondock 3.0 Josh on Vanlife Tradeoffs, Building for Real Use, and Redefining Success Josh joined this episode from inside his van, parked “down by the ocean,” in a build he calls “The Boondock 3.0.” It’s the third iteration of his first van concept, refined over years of real use and a lot of learning the hard way. Josh is also one of the founders of Vanlife Outfitters, and his story is a good reminder that vanlife rarely starts with a perfect plan. It usually starts with a pull toward a different kind of life, then a series of decisions and tradeoffs that get clearer once you’re actually living them. From “Miami starter kit” to a different definition of success Josh was born in Boston, moved to Orlando for college, and later took an unexpected turn into construction and real estate. After the 2008 crash, he and a group of friends started buying and fixing properties in South Florida, eventually buying around 130 properties and managing a large portfolio through a property management company. When that chapter ended around 2015, Josh describes a period where he went “a little overboard” with the lifestyle side of “success” – waterfront condo, sports car, watches, expensive dinners, the whole “Miami guy starter kit” as he called it. What changed wasn’t a single dramatic moment. It was noticing how empty the conversations felt, then realizing how alive he felt outdoors. A pivotal trip was ten days in North Carolina learning to whitewater kayak, spending long cold days in the water and sleeping in a barebones shack. It should have felt like deprivation compared to his Miami condo, but it didn’t. He came home thinking, “This is the type of stuff I want to be doing all the time.” That trip kicked off a process of simplification. He looked at cabins, then tiny homes, then something smaller and more mobile – eventually finding vanlife (back when resources were scarce). He then sold “everything” to fully reset his life. Building the first van when almost nobody was doing it Josh didn’t know anyone with a van when he started. He also didn’t pretend a house background meant he knew how to build a van. He calls out a key difference that matters for DIY builders – houses are built in “inches,” while vans are “multiple millimeters,” and a lot of van systems feel closer to marine work than residential construction. One key way he learned was through an early vanlife blog he found – Vanlife Outfitters – and through the person behind it, Zach. Josh says Zach became a mentor during the build, feeding him product and system guidance while they stayed in touch remotely. When Josh looks back on that first build, the thing he’s most proud of is simply finishing it – a huge accomplishment. The hardest part for most DIY builders When Josh talks about the difficulties of first builds, he doesn’t hesitate to say that the hardest and most error-prone area is the electrical system. On his first build, he found a marine electrician in South Florida and essentially assisted for three days while they installed and programmed the system. Josh had previously done some wiring work himself, but he wanted experienced help for the final integration and setup. He adds a practical approach for people who don’t yet know what their lifestyle will demand. Do a load calculation. Start with a baseline system. Leave room and budget to expand, like adding batteries later or adding a second alternator if needed. His point is simple. Many first-time builders guess wrong because living in a van changes how you use power, and you learn your true patterns after you’re on the road. Two space decisions Josh considers game-changing 1) Shower strategy that matches real use Showers are one of the most debated van decisions, and Josh’s view comes from living it for years. In his first two vans, he used an outdoor shower and gym showers, but he says there was still “25% of the time” when it became annoying or impractical – no nearby gym, too cold outside, or too hard to find privacy in a city. At the same time, he didn’t want a fixed indoor shower taking up space and breaking the “open” feeling of the van. His current solution is a setup that gives indoor shower capability without committing permanent space the way a traditional fixed shower would (Link: Josh’s shower setup). He also mentions a creative use of dead space behind the shower – using an electric pop-up mechanism to raise and lower an appliance cabinet, keeping appliances off the countertop. 2) The bulkhead between cockpit and cabin If there’s one design element Josh would “never skip” now, it’s a dedicated bulkhead wall separating the cockpit from the cabin, with a pass-through door. He knows it’s controversial because many people want swivel seats and an open front-to-back space. But his argument is that a wall is fundamentally different from a curtain for sound, light, and temperature control. He believes most heat and cold intrusion comes through the windshield and front windows, and the bulkhead eliminates “probably 90%” of that. He also frames it as a lifestyle upgrade. The bulkhead can create two distinct living zones, which matters if you’re working remotely or sharing the space with a partner. How Josh uses vanlife now Josh stopped full-time van life in 2020 and now uses his van part-time, often as a base camp for backpacking trips with his girlfriend. He’ll park at a trailhead, backpack for several days, then return to the van and move to the next spot. A major enabler is reliable internet. Josh is using Starlink during the interview and calls it one of the biggest game changers in vanlife in recent years because it can support remote work even where there’s no cell signal. He typically travels in month-long blocks, leaving the van at friends’ houses or storage lots, then returning to his home base in Miami before heading out again. How Vanlife Outfitters became a store Josh’s relationship with Zach started long before the company did. Josh found Zach’s early blog while researching his first build, and they stayed in touch for years. During the pandemic, Josh was involved in a van-building operation with a friend who ran a production company. When festivals and events were canceled, they pivoted to building vans to keep a team of tradespeople employed. Over about 18 months, they built around 11 or 12 vans, with Josh supervising and training the tradesmen. That’s also when Zach asked a practical question. Zach was receiving a lot of emails asking what products to use, and he saw that Josh had business experience, a warehouse environment, and a team. Zach asked if Josh would want to turn the blog into a store. Josh agreed, and they built it together with a clear split. Zach built the store online while he was in Panama (see his episode for that story). Josh handled in-person operations around inventory and fulfillment, initially using a corner of the van-building warehouse. In a detail that still surprises people, they didn’t meet in person for a few years, not until the business had outgrown the corner setup and moved into a second warehouse. When asked what he’s most proud of, Josh points to the team, the number of vanlifers they’ve helped, and the company’s reputation for customer service and technical support. Peace Love & Vans and why community matters Josh and Zach also co-founded a vanlife festival – Peace Love & Vans – in part because many events were being canceled during the pandemic and Florida was one of the few places where large events were still possible. They wanted something more community-driven than a typical trade show. Josh contrasts expo-heavy events with what they aimed to build – a “utopian van village” where vanlifers and “van-curious” can immerse themselves in the community, see floor plans, meet builders, discover products, and simply hang out with others living a similar lifestyle. He also doubles down on a practical recommendation: If you’re van-curious, then you should rent a van and take it to a festival. It compresses learning into a weekend because you can talk to hundreds of vanlifers, see many layouts, and get real feedback on decisions before committing to a build. Vanlife has changed and Josh’s three “new wave” groups Josh started vanlife when it felt like a fringe idea. He says the pandemic pushed it into the mainstream, and he sees growth coming from three distinct groups today. People in their 20s who want an alternative to high rent and a traditional path. People in their 30s and 40s whose work is now truly remote, especially enabled by reliable internet like Starlink. People 50+ who want freedom and flexibility without the constraints of RV reservations and campground planning, opting into off-grid vans as a different kind of travel. The thread that ties it together is “freedom and flexibility.” Quick takeaways for DIY builders from Josh If you only remember a few things from this conversation, these are the ones Josh kept returning to. Electrical first, and plan for change DIY builders get the electrical system wrong most often, and it can be the most expensive mistake. Start with a load calculation, build for today, and leave room to expand once you learn how you actually travel. Use the resources and ask for help Josh didn’t have a roadmap when he started, but now builders do. His advice is to use the content that’s already available, and learn directly from people who have built and lived in their vans. Design for the “dirty stuff” you take for granted in a house A surprising mistake he sees is skipping the unglamorous storage needs. Trash, laundry, shoes, backpacks. Without dedicated places, mess and friction take over the space fast. Summary thoughts from Josh on building for real use If there’s a theme that runs through Josh’s story, it’s that the best van decisions don’t come from chasing an ideal build. They come from paying attention to real use, then having the humility to adjust. That’s what “Boondock 3.0” represents – a build shaped by miles, weather, work, and the everyday friction points you only notice once the van is your home base. If you’re early in your own process, the goal isn’t to get every detail right on day one. It’s to build a solid foundation, leave room to evolve, and learn from people who have already lived the tradeoffs. If you want to hear the full conversation with Josh, check out Episode 02 of Vanlife Roadmap – and if you’re stuck on a decision, reach out to our team at support@vanlifeoutfitters.com.
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Victron Energy Dongles: Explained!
Interface MK3 to USB, VE.Bus Smart, and VE.Direct Bluetooth Smart What is a dongle and when do I need one? This post explains Victron Energy’s confusing accessories for configuring and monitoring Victron systems. First, let’s get this out of the way. A dongle is a small device able to be connected to and used with a computer. Sometimes Victron calls it a dongle. Sometimes Victron calls it an interface. We dunno, but we’ll call it a dongle if you call us asking for more info on our Victron products. Types of Dongles Victron offers several dongles for different purposes and products. If you need to configure settings, update firmware, or remotely monitor your Victron device with VictronConnect, keep reading! As of this posting (early 2026), our store has three types of Victron Energy dongles available. Most camper van electrical systems are interested in the first two of these dongles below, while some customers upgrading older non-Bluetooth devices may be considering the third dongle. Let’s break them down. An Interface MK3 to USB (we’ll call it a MK3-USB dongle!) is used to configure settings and update firmware for VE.Bus products. VE.Bus products are Multiplus inverter/chargers, standalone BMS, and some inverters. There are two MK3-USB dongle options, with the only difference between the two being a USB-A connector (the O.G. rectangular USB connection) versus a USB-C connector (the newer, slimmer port as found on phones, tablets, etc.). A VE.Bus Smart Dongle is used to monitor and operate VE.Bus products via Bluetooth. “Operate” means changing the input current limit as well as switching between Off, On and Charger-only modes on an inverter/charger. A VE.Direct Bluetooth Smart Dongle adds a Bluetooth interface to monitor devices such as the BMV-70x series battery monitors (not the newer BMV-712 with integrated Bluetooth), Phoenix Inverters with VE.Direct port, and MPPT Solar Charge Controllers without Bluetooth. Don’t confuse VE.Bus devices with VE.Direct devices. VE.Bus units are typically high-power devices like Multiplus inverter/chargers, and these devices use an “Ethernet” VE.Bus cable. VE.Direct units are typically lower power devices such as DC-DC chargers and MPPT Charge Controllers, and these devices use a proprietary VE.Direct cable. Each of those device types needs a different dongle. What’s up with all these Victron protocols and cables? Check out our Victron Energy Cables: Explained! blog. When do I need a MK3-USB dongle? A MK3-USB dongle (again, formally titled an Interface MK3 to USB by Victron) can be used to configure settings and update firmware on your Multiplus via the VictronConnect app. Victron still ships Multiplus products configured for AGM batteries, so most customers need to configure their inverter/chargers for lithium-ion batteries and adjust their settings as explained here. However, if your system has a Cerbo GX command center, you can perform all of the configuration steps and firmware updates using the VRM without needing a separate MK3-USB dongle. You have two options for configuring your Multiplus settings and updating firmware 1) with a Victron Cerbo through the VRM or 2) using a laptop/phone* directly to a MK3-USB dongle. You MUST pick one of these options. Since you’ll need at least one dongle to configure and update your Multiplus, and maybe you want the ability to control your Multiplus remotely with a second dongle (see next section below), we highly recommend considering a Cerbo GX instead of worrying about dongles at all. You get more features, consolidated configuration & operation, plus the ability for remote troubleshooting & diagnostics for just a little more investment. Bonus tip: while we think the Cerbo pairs perfectly with a touch screen, you can use the Cerbo through VRM and/or Bluetooth without a touch screen if you choose. If you choose to use a MK3-USB dongle for configuring your Multiplus and you do have a Cerbo in your system, don’t forget that those VE.Bus connections should be mutually exclusive. Connect the VE.Bus cable to your dongle initially, then disconnect the dongle and make the connection from the Cerbo to the Multiplus. Put your dongle in your maintenance area, as you may need it for future firmware updates. If you need a MK3-USB dongle, your only decision is to pick between USB-A (top) and USB-C (bottom) connectors. Aside from the connector, both dongles perform the same functions. Generally speaking, laptops using VictronConnect and/or VEConfigure software trend towards USB-A ports, and newer phones & tablets using VictronConnect are using USB-C ports. Lastly, if you’re a power user or in a big rig with multiple Multiplus devices in split-phase or parallel configurations, then you will need a MK3-USB dongle for proper configuration of the inverter/chargers. When do I need a VE.Bus Smart Dongle? A VE.Bus Smart Dongle adds Bluetooth connectivity to a Multiplus for monitoring and control only. You can not configure settings or perform firmware updates using a VE.Bus Smart Dongle. That’s why we talked about the MK3-USB dongle above! Via the VictronConnect app, the VE.Bus Smart Dongle allows you to readily see an inverter/charger’s key stats as well as warnings or alarms. The VE.Bus Smart Dongle also allows you to control the input current limit and mode (Off, On aka Inverter/Charger, and Charger-only). These operator controls provide a way to replace a Digital Multi Control Panel with Bluetooth connectivity. The VE.Bus Smart Dongle is an optional device that can add Multiplus monitoring & operation in a system without a Cerbo. The VE.Bus Smart Dongle connects to a device with a VE.Bus cable that is not included. When do I need a VE.Direct Smart Dongle? The VE.Direct Bluetooth Smart Dongle adds Bluetooth connectivity to VE.Direct devices for monitoring only. Don’t confuse the VE.Bus Smart Dongle for VE.Bus devices such as a Multiplus with this one, which is for VE.Direct devices such as BMV-70x series battery monitors, Phoenix Inverters with VE.Direct port, and BlueSolar MPPT Solar Charge Controllers without Bluetooth. If you have a SmartSolar MPPT Solar Charge Controller like the ones in our store, those pretty blue boxes already have Bluetooth capability without the need for this extra dongle. Via the VictronConnect app, the VE.Direct Smart Dongle allows you to readily see a device’s key stats as well as warnings or alarms. The VE.Direct Smart Dongle is an optional device that can add remote monitoring to VE.Direct devices that lack Bluetooth connectivity. The VE.Direct Smart Dongle has an integral cable that plugs directly into a single device with a VE.Direct port. Wrap Up - Quick Selection Guide Here it is in a nutshell: Your device & goal What to buy Have a Cerbo GX? You likely don’t need a dongle Configuring or updating a MultiPlus MK3-USB and a VE.Bus cable Bluetooth monitoring for MultiPlus VE.Bus Smart Dongle and a VE.Bus cable Bluetooth for older VE.Direct devices VE.Direct Smart Dongle Remember to “match the port”. Use a VE.Bus dongle for Multiplus. Use a VE.Direct dongle for most other devices with a VE.Direct port. Frequently Asked Questions 1. What software do I need to connect to a dongle? All Victron dongles require the VictronConnect app. * Note that Apple iPhone/iPad doesn't support USB OTG, so Bluetooth connections work fine from an iDevice but the MK3-USB dongle requires either a Windows/Mac laptop or an Android device. 2. VictronConnect won’t connect - what should I try first? Troubleshoot common VictronConnect and Bluetooth issues in three steps. Make sure the Bluetooth is on in your phone’s system menu Move your phone very close to the device If you’re still not connecting, then 1) close VictronConnect 2) remove the device pairing from you phone’s Bluetooth system menu 3) open VictronConnect and pair with the device from within the VictronConnect Local screen. 3. Do I need to configure my Victron electrical system? Yes. Factory defaults are not correct for lithium-ion batteries and most camper van electrical systems. You need to configure the settings in all of your electrical devices, and you need the capability to update firmware when necessary. 4. How do I choose between a USB-A dongle and a USB-C dongle? The only difference between the USB-A dongle and the USB-C dongle is the connection to your laptop or phone. Select USB-A for the traditional USB connector, or select USB-C for more modern devices with only USB-C ports. There are also adapters available to readily switch between the two physical connectors. 5. What is the difference between VE.Bus and VE.Direct? VE.Bus and VE.Direct are both communication protocols, however they use different cables and work on different devices. VE.Bus units are typically high-power devices like Multiplus inverter/chargers. VE.Direct units are typically lower power devices such as DC-DC chargers and MPPT Charge Controllers. Additional Resources Victron Accessories product information Configuring a Multiplus using a MK3-USB dongle Troubleshooting VictronConnect
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Pro Builder Tips for a Better DIY Van Build
DIY van builds are one of the most rewarding projects you can take on. They can also get expensive and frustrating when you discover (too late) that a key decision should have been made earlier. Vanlife Outfitters exists to help DIYers build with confidence. We do that by sharing practical education, helping you find parts that work well together, and learning directly from experienced builders who see the same challenges over and over. To support that mission, we asked eight professional van builders to share the single most important thing they wish first-time DIY builders understood before starting a build or major install. This post distills their advice into an actionable guide and highlights the builders who contributed (as collaborators, not endorsements). The builders who contributed Charles Nolt – Runny Yolk Designs Stuart Grulke – Groove Vans John Hayward – Whitewater Vans Jay Lamphier – Mountain Coast Vans Justin vanBlaricom – Noke Van Co. Vanessa Plante – Bear Claw Custom Vans Jake Bachowski – Our Van Quest Troy Norton – Nanavans Additional resources to help with your van build The 10 Most Common Camper Van Build Questions (and the One That Really Matters) 10+ Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Camper Van Builder How to Find the Right Camper Van Builder (Without Losing Your Shirt or Your Sanity) I've Built Over 15 Vans...Here's What I've Learned Now for advice from 8 professional builders 1) Start with how you’ll actually use the van Jake (Our Van Quest) recommends stepping back before any major install and getting specific about your use case. Weekend trips, adventure travel, kids’ tournaments – each one pushes you toward different system decisions. His point is simple: define the use and limitations first, then design your systems around that (electrical, plumbing, suspension, wheels and tires). Do this now Write a one-sentence “mission statement” for your van (what you’ll use it for most). List your constraints (season, climate, off-grid time, number of people). Review every major system choice and ask if it supports that mission. 2) Try a layout before you commit to building it Stuart (Groove Vans) shares a practical rule: try before you buy. There are countless layouts and options, and it can take one or two attempts to learn what you truly prefer. His recommendation is to test different floor plans in real life before you commit. Do this now Identify your top 2–3 layout options. If possible, rent, borrow, or test a similar layout on a trip. Document what felt great and what became annoying fast. 3) Draw it to scale (then account for what you forgot) Jay (Mountain Coast Vans) focuses on space planning and realism. Vans are tight, even the “big” ones. He urges DIY builders to draw the plan to scale and factor in what quietly steals space: plywood thickness, framing members, and wire runs. The upfront effort can save you from building yourself into a corner later. Do this now Create a scaled drawing of your layout (Jay says to do it thrice!). Add the thickness and routing reality (materials, framing, wiring paths). Redraw until everything actually fits and remains serviceable. 4) Plan electrical for today and for future upgrades Vanessa (Bear Claw Custom Vans) recommends calculating current and future electrical demands before you choose your approach. That planning helps you decide whether an all-in-one power box is enough or whether you need a full custom electrical system. Her warning is based on what she sees in the field: DIYers who want to add a heater later, only to find their system can’t support it without expensive rework. Do this now List the devices you’ll run now. Add a second list of future upgrades you might want later. Choose an electrical approach that supports both lists without major rebuilds. 5) Don’t skimp on materials and components if you want it to last Stuart’s next point is blunt: great plans fail when materials and components are cheap. If you build the best floor plan imaginable but cut corners on materials, electronics, or components, durability suffers. Do this now Identify the components that will be hardest (and costliest) to redo later. Prioritize quality there first, even if you compromise elsewhere temporarily. Research before buying so you’re not replacing parts twice. 6) Avoid MDF and particleboard in a van environment Justin (Noke Van Co.) gets specific on one common mistake. He advises DIYers not to use MDF or pressed wood for cabinets and framing because highway driving creates constant vibration. Over time, screws can loosen and cabinetry can fail. He shares that his shop uses lightweight plywood alternatives (and notes there are multiple options) because they’re structurally strong while helping reduce weight. Do this now Review your cabinet and framing material plan. Choose a material that holds fasteners well under vibration. Build for durability first, cosmetics second. 7) Build skills and confidence before you build the van Troy (Nanavans) encourages first-time DIY builders to focus on the techniques required to make the build happen, not only the final vision. If you’re buying tools for the first time (or borrowing them), he recommends practicing on a small project first (even a small project like a birdhouse) so you understand what you’re doing before the van becomes the practice piece. Do this now Pick a small “practice build” that uses the same tools and techniques. Track your real time and learning curve. Set expectations for the van build based on what you experienced. 8) Prep and organization reduce frustration (and improve the end result) Charles (Runny Yolk Designs) highlights something that separates smooth builds from miserable ones: preparation. He believes DIYers are capable of great quality work, and suggests setting yourself up for success by thinking through the job ahead, staging your tools and fasteners, and reducing the “constant searching” that creates frustration. He even shares a simple tactic from his shop – using a sheet pan as a portable bin for your tools and parts while you work. He also adds a mindset reminder that matters: it’s your build. Perfection is not the only path to a space you love. Stuart echoes the organization angle from a planning standpoint: spreadsheets help manage the number of parts and pieces, and help keep your budget under control. Do this now Keep a parts list and a simple budget tracker (a spreadsheet is enough). Stage the tools and fasteners you’ll need before you start the task. Reduce friction wherever possible so the build stays fun and sustainable. Watch the builders share this advice If you want to hear each builder deliver their tip directly, we also put together a short compilation video featuring all eight builders: LINK Frequently Asked Questions What’s the first decision I should make before starting a DIY van build? Start with the use of the van and your limitations, then design the systems around that (Jake, Our Van Quest). Should I test a layout before committing to a build plan? Yes. Stuart (Groove Vans) recommends trying different floor plans and options before you commit. Why do builders insist on drawing layouts to scale? Jay (Mountain Coast Vans) makes the point that space disappears fast once you account for real-world thickness and routing (plywood thickness, framing members, wire runs). Drawing to scale helps you avoid optimism that becomes a problem later. What’s the biggest electrical mistake DIY builders make early on? Vanessa (Bear Claw Custom Vans) recommends calculating current and future electrical demands up front so you don’t end up limited a year later when you want to add something new (like a heater). What material should I avoid for cabinets in a van? Justin (Noke Van Co) recommends not using MDF or pressed wood because vibration can loosen screws over time and cause failures. How do I keep a long DIY build from turning into frustration? Charles (Runny Yolk Designs) suggests prepping your tools and parts before tasks so you’re not constantly searching, and Stuart (Groove Vans) recommends staying organized with simple spreadsheets for parts and budget. I’m not a professional – can I still do quality work? Charles (Runny Yolk Designs) believes you are capable of great quality work, and frames the difference as repetition and experience. Troy (Nanavans) adds that practice projects help you build confidence before tackling major installs. What’s one mindset shift that helps DIY builders finish? John (Whitewater Vans) emphasizes that the process can be time-consuming and full of surprises, and that using existing builder experience and tools can help you streamline decisions and push through roadblocks.
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Installing AM Auto (Adhesive-Bonded) Windows In Your Camper Van
AM Auto windows use automotive urethane adhesive to bond directly to the van body rather than relying on an interior clamp ring. This “fully bonded” design creates a permanent seal between the glass and sheet metal. Because there is no interior frame, installation depends on proper surface preparation, consistent adhesive application, and careful placement. This guide outlines the tools, preparation steps, and installation process to help you achieve a secure, weather-tight fit. Why Choose Adhesive-Bonded Windows? Urethane-bonded windows attach directly to the van body using automotive adhesive rather than relying on an interior clamp ring and gasket. For many DIY installers, this approach can simplify the installation process and reduce some common pain points. Key advantages: More forgiving cut tolerancesBecause there is no interior frame that must fit precisely inside the opening, the cut does not need to be perfectly uniform. This can save time and reduce stress during the cutting phase. Fewer mechanical fasteners to installThere are no interior clamp rings or dozens of small screws to align and tighten, which can be difficult to access and prone to stripping or failing to grab. Reduced reliance on foam gasketsThe weather seal is created by a continuous bead of urethane rather than a thin foam gasket, which can compress unevenly or degrade over time if not installed correctly. Simplified installation workflowWith proper prep and adhesive application, the process is more linear: cut, prep, bond, and secure while curing. Start by watching this short overview video and then follow along with our detailed steps and recommended tools below! Before You Start Taking time to prepare your workspace, tools, and conditions will make the installation smoother and help ensure a strong, weather-tight bond. Environmental Conditions Ideal install range is 50–90°F (10–32°C). Cold temperatures slow urethane curing and make it harder to dispense. Very hot temperatures can cause the adhesive to skin over too quickly, reducing bond quality. If possible, work in the shade. Avoid installing in rain or when moisture is present on the van body. High humidity can interfere with proper adhesion and cure time. Workspace Preparation Park on a level surface to help with window alignment. Ensure you have adequate lighting for marking and cutting. Protect the interior with plastic or drop cloths to catch metal shavings. Keep a vacuum or magnet nearby to remove metal debris that could cause rust. What You'll Need AM Auto window (or any other urethane adhesive bonded windows) Rubber edge trim that will cover the metal edges of your cut out. Automotive urethane adhesive. You'll need about 2 tubes of adhesive for a large window or about 1 tube for a small window. Primer for the sheet metal surrounding the window that the urethane adhesive/window will adhere to. These "daubers" work well for applying the primer. A high strength caulking gun with a minimum of 26:1 "thrust". Urethane caulking is very hard to get out of the tube. Don't try to use a "normal" caulking gun! A jig saw with a fine metal blade for cutting the opening Blue painters tape - both for protecting the van sheet metal/paint while cutting the opening and for securing the window in place after it has been placed into the urethane adhesive. We also recommend that you use gloves when working with the primer and adhesive, and wear safety eyeglasses when making the cut in the van's metal body. *If you are replacing an existing factory window that is glued in, you may want to talk to a professional for removal and replacement. The best tool to use for removing an existing glued in window is a wire cutter such as the Equalizer Window Cut-Out Set but this is a difficult job. Once the existing window is removed, you will need to remove the urethane down as flat as possible and clean as much away as you can CRL Adhesive Cleaner. Cutting The Opening This window uses the van's factory metal stamping which makes it easier to cut the opening because the "size and shape" of the cut out is built into the vehicle. If you take a look at the interior of the van you will notice an area where the inner metal ends. You will cut right along that edge all the way around your van. Some openings may include thin vertical supports within the stamped area. These are typically non-structural and can be cut if they fall within the factory window recess, but verify your specific van model before proceeding. It's typically easier to cut the opening from the outside. Many people will drill small holes from the inside of the van at each corner of each of the radius curves (top right, top left, bottom right and bottom left). Once these guide holes are drilled you can essentially "connect the dots" with a marker on the exterior of the van to mark the location of your cut. A jig saw with a fine metal blade works well. Be sure to protect the paint around the cut out with blue painters tape where the saw will be moving over the sheet metal. We also recommend trying to capture the metal shavings with plastic and/or a vacuum. Be sure to "dry fit" the window to ensure that your opening is the right size/shape and that the window will fit into the opening in the place you want it. Make any adjustments to the opening before proceeding. Preparing the Opening Once the opening has been cut (or existing window removed) you'll want to file the edges of your cut and then primer those bare metal edges to prevent any corrosion. When the primer has dried, you can apply your Trim-Lok edge trim around the perimeter of your cut out. It's generally best to start at the middle of the bottom of your cut out/opening and work the Trim-Lok around the opening. The Trim-Lok can be cut with a razor blade to the correct size. Next you'll want to clean the outside metal/paint of the van around the area where the window will be installed with rubbing alcohol in order to ensure a good bond between the sheet metal/paint and the urethane adhesive/window. Also clean the window itself where it will interact with the adhesive with rubbing alcohol. Use your vacuum to remove any metal shavings on the outside of the van, and anywhere the plastic sheet inside did not catch. If left, these metal shavings can cause rust over time. Applying Urethane Adhesive Apply your urethane primer the outside of the body in the area that the window will be glued to. Consider using blue painters tape adjacent to the area you're applying the primer to prevent any primer from getting on areas of the van that the window will not cover. The primer looks like a thin, matte black paint when applied. Maintain an approximate 1/2" gap around the edges - do not go all the way to the edge of the metal that the window will cover. Follow the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions regarding glass priming. Many urethane systems do not require primer on the glass, but always verify. Allow primer to dry for about 10 minutes. Be careful not to block the weep holes on the window track with sealant. Next, apply the urethane adhesive. Cut your urethane adhesive tube tip "straight across" (no v-notch). When applying you want a heavy bead (about the diameter of a "Tootsie Roll"). The adhesive should be applied sheet metal rather than the window near the edge of the cutout. Be sure to evenly distribute to urethane adhesive and avoid any high or low points. When changing directions or starting/stopping the application, be sure to overlap your beads slightly to prevent any gaps. The most important part of a urethane window installation is consistency in the bead of urethane. Placing the Window When placing the window you'll want to get it as close to desired location as possible in one movement so that you can fine tune the placement slightly but not need to make significant adjustments which could either move the adhesive into areas that it shouldn't be or spread the adhesive too thin. It's ideal to have two people - one on the inside that can pull on frame and help position the window and the other outside ensuring the window does not fall out! Once you've fine-tuned the position of the window, press on the window with an open palm all around the area/perimeter where the urethane adhesive was applied in order to press the glass into the adhesive for a strong bond. The goal with a van window installation is to have the glass about even with the outer body. You want to have an approximately 1/4" gap between the glass and the van's sheet metal. Avoid too small of a gap - while you may feel the aesthetic look is nicer during installation, you want to maintain the small gap for fluctuating temperatures/etc. so that the glass does not shatter in these conditions. If any urethane adhesive oozes into the interior of the van, liberally spray the adhesive with glass cleaner and then use a plastic putty knife to smooth the urethane out like you might with spackling or caulking for a nicer appearance and adequate bond. Finally, use blue painters tape to secure the window into place while the adhesive cures. You can drive your van after 3-4 hours and remove the tape after 24 hours. Do not wash the van for 72 hours. A Note on Ford Transits Ford Transit windows have a drastic curvature as opposed to other van makes like the Sprinter or Promaster. They sometimes require suction clamps when installing the windows to ensure the curvature is correctly aligning with the body of the van. To determine if this is necessary for your Transit window install, we recommend doing a dry fit first to see if there are any spots that sit higher off the van body. The suction clamps are applied right away once the window is positioned in place with adhesive. You should place them in the location where you would like to improve the curvature. The suction clamps stay on as long as the adhesive takes to cure. Disclosure: This page contains Amazon affiliate links, which means that if you click a product link and buy anything, we will receive a small commission.
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Vanlife Roadmap Podcast: Ep. 1
From Basement Builds to Vanlife Outfitters Zach Daudert on Curiosity, Camper Vans, and Building a Community the Hard Way Vanlife rarely starts with a parts list. For Zach Daudert, it started decades earlier – with cardboard hospitals taped together in a basement, a teenage obsession with fixing and building things, and a lifelong pull toward mobility, simplicity, and making systems work better. In the inaugural episode of the Vanlife Roadmap podcast, Zach shares the winding story that led from a childhood in Colorado to building camper vans long before “vanlife” had a name – and ultimately to founding multiple companies designed to make vanlife less overwhelming and more intentional. This is not a story about chasing trends. It’s a story about learning through doing, solving real problems, and building something because it needed to exist. A Builder Before He Had the Language for It Zach grew up in Greeley, Colorado, spending much of his childhood building things and imagining adult worlds long before most kids his age. As a child, he recreated a fully mapped hospital in his parents’ basement using cardboard, masking tape, and detailed systems. There were intake forms. Recovery rooms. Even interviews with real medical professionals, recorded on cassette tapes. Looking back, the pattern is obvious. Zach wasn’t just interested in things – he was interested in how systems worked. That instinct never left. Living in a Van at 17 – Long Before It Was “Vanlife” Zach built and lived in his first camper van at just 17 years old – a 1971 Volkswagen Westfalia he rebuilt with his dad and girlfriend. It wasn’t part of a movement, and it certainly wasn’t a lifestyle trend. It was simply a way to travel, see the country, and follow the Grateful Dead. The van was basic. There was no polished interior, no optimized layout, and no online guides to follow. But it worked. It gave him freedom, mobility, and just enough shelter to stay on the road. More importantly, it taught him how much you could do with very little – and how quickly you learned what actually mattered once you started living in the space. Looking back, that first van wasn’t about building the “right” setup. It was about movement, music, and figuring things out along the way – lessons that would quietly shape how Zach approached every van he built after that. Learning by Doing (and Breaking Things) As Zach lived and traveled in vans through his early adulthood, he slowly upgraded systems: • Better electrical setups • Refrigeration instead of ice • Plumbing scavenged from RV salvage yards • Marine components repurposed for mobile living Without internet resources, he learned by dismantling old RVs and studying how they worked – physically tracing systems to understand them. This hands-on, problem-driven learning shaped a core belief that still defines Vanlife Outfitters today: The best van builds are driven by use, not just gear. Panama, Burnout, and Starting Over After years in video production and early web development while also founding a community training and resource organization for creative professionals (Boulder Digital Arts), Zach burned out. He moved to Panama, and with the help of a 5-person Panamanian crew and ex-wife, built a home from the ground up inside the crater of an extinct volcano (El Valle de Antón), and spent years living there on and off – growing food, gardening, and stepping away from constant digital work. But vans remained part of his life. When he returned to the U.S. and decided to build a modern camper van from a blank cargo van for the first time, everything changed. This was 2016. There were still no clear resources. No centralized places to buy trusted parts. No clear guidance on systems design. Even basic terminology was hard to find. So Zach did what he’d always done. He figured it out – and he documented it. Why the Blog Came First Zach started a blog to share what he was learning – not because he planned to build a business, but because he knew others would run into the same problems he did. He wrote about: Electrical systems Plumbing layouts Choosing a van platform Repurposing marine and RV components The response surprised him. People weren’t just reading – they were asking questions. A lot of them. That revealed a deeper problem. The Real Pain Point Wasn’t Installation – It Was Sourcing Zach realized that one of the hardest parts of building a camper van wasn’t the physical labor – it was figuring out what to buy. Parts were scattered across vendors who didn’t understand vanlife use cases. Shipping was unreliable. Support was poor. Builders were overwhelmed by choice and conflicting advice. That insight became the foundation of Vanlife Outfitters. Not as a trend play. Not as a merch brand. [Well… he was hoping to become a t-shirt mogul.] But as a curated store built by people who actually used the gear. From Blog to Business – With the Right Partner Josh Theberge was one of the early readers of Zach’s blog. He was building vans professionally during the pandemic and running into the same frustrations – just at a larger scale. Together, they launched the Vanlife Outfitters store in 2020 with a simple promise: • Road-tested products • Honest guidance • Real technical support • A store that saves builders time, not just money Vanlife Outfitters wasn’t built to sell everything. It was built to sell the right things. Community Over Commerce As Vanlife Outfitters grew, Zach and Josh kept coming back to the same realization: the vanlife community needed more than products and online advice. It needed a place to gather that actually felt like vanlife. That idea became Peace Love & Vans. Zach explains that while vanlife events existed in other parts of the country, there was very little for the growing community on the East Coast. Rather than creating another expo or trade show, the goal was to build something different – an event centered on people, not booths. From the start, Peace Love & Vans was designed as a camping-first experience. Vans camp together in a natural setting, not a parking lot. Conversations happen more in van “neighborhoods” than at sales tables. Music, food, and shared experiences are part of the fabric of the event, creating an environment that reflects why many people are drawn to vanlife in the first place. Zach talks about how community is often what keeps people in vanlife long-term. Peace Love & Vans was built to support that – bringing together builders, DIYers, longtime vanlifers, and people just starting out, all on equal footing. The result is an event that feels less like an industry showcase and more like a gathering of people who share a common way of living. It’s a reflection of the same philosophy behind Vanlife Outfitters – build things with intention, prioritize real-world use, and put community before commerce. Lessons for Anyone Building a Van Today Zach’s advice to first-time builders is refreshingly simple: Don’t overthink it Don’t chase perfection Get started and use the van Technology will change. Products will improve. Your second build will always be better than your first. What matters most is designing for how you’ll actually live, then making sure your systems support that reality. Electrical systems, in particular, deserve more thought than aesthetics — because they quietly determine comfort, capability, and confidence on the road. Why This Story Matters Zach’s path explains why Vanlife Outfitters exists — and why it operates differently. It wasn’t built by marketers. It wasn’t built by trend followers. It was built by people who spent decades facing the same questions that today’s builders are asking. And then answering them. Want to Hear the Full Conversation? Listen to Episode 1 of Vanlife Roadmap to hear Zach’s story in his own words — including the mistakes, the laughter, and the lessons learned along the way. Follow along on YouTube or wherever you listen to podcasts. If you’re planning a camper van build, exploring vanlife, or want to become a t-shirt mogul, it’s a great place to start. And if you’ve got questions about your own build, reach out. We’re always happy to help. Want to explore more? Visit the Vanlife Outfitters Store to browse gear, learn from real-world builds, and get help choosing the right setup for your own vanlife adventure.
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How To Configure Your Victron Electrical System Components Using VRM
The Victron ecosystem has very useful monitoring and configuration capabilities when a Cerbo is installed as part of your camper van electrical system. One of the benefits of purchasing a Victron system bundle from Vanlife Outfitters is your access to our expert tech support team. Victron's Remote Monitoring (VRM) allows us to see what your system is doing, and help you remotely troubleshoot or adjust device configuration settings. The Cerbo can connect to Wi-Fi and the internet, allowing remote access to view system data and edit configuration settings of connected devices. Settings and firmware updates can be managed for the Cerbo itself, most Victron inverters and battery chargers, all SmartSolar MPPT solar charge controllers and Victron Orion XS DC-DC controllers with VE.direct, all remotely. This gives an extra way to do device configuration & updates from one location, vs. the typical methods of bluetooth with the Victron Connect app, or an MK3-USB cable for Multiplus inverters. That one location is Victron’s remote monitoring portal, VRM, and it can be accessed from anywhere through the cloud. Since your camper van is typically mobile, it’s great that it can be accessible remotely. Requirements: Good Wi-Fi connection with the Cerbo to the internet. A Windows OS machine (or virtual machine) with Victron’s VEConfigure installed. TIP: You don’t need to have always-on internet in your rig. Many customers use the VRM at home or temporarily using a hotspot if needed. Your touch screen and system will continue to work with or without internet. The Victron system will store data when not connected then upload it when you’re back home. The Cerbo’s internal antenna is not meant for long range connections, and, it’s inside your metal box van...so a strong Wi-Fi signal may be necessary. The wireless network must be a simple SSID and password login. The Cerbo can not connect to networks where a captive login webpage requires other interaction. We highly recommend that you set up VRM following the steps below! Assuming your Cerbo is working and connected with the rest of your system, follow these steps to connect and set up VRM, and invite us to view your system. If you still need to turn on the Cerbo in the first place, and set it up for your camper van electrical system, here is a more detailed complete blog post. https://www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/configuring-a-victron-cerbo-gx-and-connecting-with-vrm Either way, now you should be able to view your system on VRM. On a web browser, go to https://vrm.victronenergy.com and click on Installations, and it should look something like this: ('Device List' and 'Remote Console' are highlighted for next steps.) Very good, you have VRM set up! Now we can talk about using it for remote configuration! Exciting! Using the VRM remotely from a web browser, or the Victron VRM app for Apple or Android, you can see data or change settings as if you were using the touch screen display locally. You can do this from far, far away, or you can use VRM in your camper van without needing the special MK3-USB cable that you forgot where you stashed. When VRM is connected to your system, the Remote Console view is the same as what you see locally on the touch screen. (Click 'Remote Console' from VRM Dashboard.) From this screen, you can view Notifications and Settings. (Click anywhere on the screen to show the lower toolbar icons, just like on the touchscreen in your van.) VRM Device list view, and firmware updates: (From the VRM dashboard, click 'Device List'.) The device list shows all connected devices. Click the ‘+’ at the right side to see info about each device (serial numbers, current firmware version, etc). The Firmware Update button takes you to a new screen with the current firmware and the latest available version for each device. The latest f/w should be used for starting up new systems, and sometimes firmware updates can solve certain problems on older systems. If your system is working fine and there’s no new feature that you want, then it is fine to stay with your current firmware version. This is the easiest way to update firmware for multiple devices. For a new system, use the latest firmware for every device. Read the messages carefully when updating firmware. Remote configuration of devices via VRM – Multiplus inverters: For Multiplus settings, a configuration file can be downloaded, edited locally with VEConfigure (windows OS only), then re-uploaded to the Multiplus. Using VRM, this can be done without a special MK3-USB cable, which is the other typical way to configure a Multiplus (locally, MK3-USB cable between the inverter and laptop). (Choose Device list, Remote VEConfigure.) A pulldown list shows your Multiplus in case there are more than one, then choose Download. The .rvsc configuration file with the current inverter settings will be downloaded to your local machine. You might make a copy of the original file at this point, because VEConfigure will overwrite it with your changes. Pre-step: install VEConfiguration tools from Victron: https://www.victronenergy.com/support-and-downloads/software Once VEConfigure is installed, you should be able to double click the downloaded .rvsc file and VEConfigure will be launched, showing the General settings tab. You can also open VEConfigure manually on your windows machine and select the file. This would be similar to plugging directly into the inverter with the MK3-USB cable. The windows VEConfigure program is used to view and modify the settings. (If you’re a Mac or Linux user, all this does work fine from windows running on a virtual machine, like VirtualBox). If you launched VEConfigure manually, Click ‘Port selection’, ‘Fake target from file’ and choose the previously downloaded .rvsc file. Then you should see the General settings tab as shown above. The existing settings from your config file populate in the various tabs of VEConfigure: General tab settings shown here are fine: 60Hz for North America, the default 30a shore power inlet current limit you may want to set at 11amps to avoid tripping 15a outlet circuits with continuous charging load. Don’t enable the battery monitor unless there is no other shunt in the system. Typically, you want the shunt to be the primary measurement of battery SOC, not the multiplus. Default values on the Grid tab should also be fine: (Grid code: none, accept wide freq range) Settings on the Inverter tab are important! Typically the shutdown voltages should be set slightly higher than where the battery BMS would disconnect. Check your battery mfg recommended values, and maybe increase by .3 volts to avoid hitting the BMS disconnect threshold. The inverter should stop discharging, before the battery is totally empty, to avoid manual intervention to restart the system. For a 12v LFP system, here are reasonable settings: (generally multiply by 2 or 4 for 24v or 48v systems, but check your battery manual for specific numbers) Low shutdown 10.4-10.7 (if under load, voltage can be lower at the Multiplus) Low restart 12.1, Low pre-alarm 12.4 (Red shows values that you have changed) Settings on the Charger tab are important! First select Battery type. Likely you have LFP batteries. Then adjust the Absorption voltage, Float voltage, absorption time according to your battery manufacturer’s recommendations. The charge current should be set appropriately for your battery bank size. Typically, with 2 or more LFP batteries, the batteries can handle more than the maximum charging output of the Multiplus 3000, so the default of 120a is good. The default settings on the Virtual switch, Assistants, Advanced tabs should be fine. Save your changes: Choose File, Exit to quit VEConfigure, and it will ask before saving the changes (to the original file name, you don't get to change the name here). Now your file is ready to upload back to the Multiplus via VRM. Upload your changes to the Multiplus, via VRM: Back in the VRM Portal device list, under the Remote VEConfigure option, select the Upload button. Choose the .rvsc file you just modified, and click ‘OK’. The modified .rvsc configuration file will get uploaded to the Cerbo, which will update and restart the Multiplus inverter. Voila! You have configured your inverter settings, remotely! Remote configuration of other devices via VRM with Victron Connect: Typically the Victron Connect app is used on a phone or tablet to configure devices locally, communicating over bluetooth. Once VRM is set up with the Cerbo, any devices that are connected via VE.Direct or VE.Bus can be configured remotely, running Victron Connect on a Windows PC. (Pre-step: Install the VictronConnect Windows program from here: https://www.victronenergy.com/support-and-downloads/software ) Open Victron Connect on your Windows PC. Select the VRM tab on the right, and click on your Cerbo system. On the left, it shows your Cerbo (with a link to your VRM dashboard), and on the right, you’ll see all the other devices on your system. Click any of these devices on the right, and Victron Connect shows the current status and settings under the upper right gear icon, as if you were connected via bluetooth. But you’re magically far, far away! Just click the settings you’d like to change, and click ‘OK’, presto. This works for all smart Victron devices which connect to the Cerbo via VE.Bus or VE.Direct ports. The Multiplus shows up in the device list also, and you can see status, but the configuration settings can not be changed through VictronConnect/VRM. Not all Orion DCDC or solar MPPT devices have VE.Direct ports, so those are limited to configuration locally via bluetooth. Example showing Smartshunt: Alternatively, you can open VictronConnect from the VRM web portal Device List. There are two ways to access VictronConnect from the Device List: Click the Blue oval highlighted button ‘Open in VictronConnect’. This will open and display the system & all devices as described above. Red highlighted buttons: Click one of the Device List ‘+’ tabs, to see more info about that device, (the MPPT Solar Charger is selected below). Then an ‘Open in VictronConnect’ button shows at the bottom. Click that button and VictronConnect opens for just that particular device. So, that’s it. Amazing technology! You can check on your van from far away, and now you can make changes if needed. If you want to help out a friend with their Victron system, now you can do it remotely and come off like a genius. If you purchased your electrical equipment from us (thanks!), you can take advantage of our world-class support including adding service@vanlifeoutfitters.com to your VRM account so that we can help you troubleshoot remotely if needed. Again, that’s one of the benefits of purchasing a Victron system bundle from Vanlife Outfitters; your access to our expert tech support team.
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How To Set Up Remote Monitoring For Your Victron Electrical System
How to set up Victron's Remote Monitoring for your van electrical system. How to invite Vanlife Outfitters to view and assist you with configuring or troubleshooting.
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Troubleshooting Tips: Nations + Wakespeed Secondary Alternator No/Low Power
If your Nations + Wakespeed secondary alternator kit isn’t charging your camper van battery bank, use this post to diagnose wiring, LED states, CAN-bus settings, DVCC behavior, and RPM & temperature throttling. Symptom Likely Cause Quick Fix WS500 LED not blinking yellow/orange or not showing up in Cerbo Devices list Improper CAN bus configuration Check CAN bus wiring (including terminators) and set Cerbo CAN bus to 250 kbit/s. Engine needs to be running No power from alternator Improper wiring, especially Feature-In “white wire” Set BMS relay to Alternator ATC mode Check all wiring versus example wiring diagram Less power from alternator than expected Derating is protecting batteries or alternator Retest with low battery State of Charge Make sure electronics and alternator are appropriately cooled Alternator powering correctly but Cerbo shows “--W” or incorrect DC Load power WS500 configuration issue Ensure that firmware is up to date Check alternator shunt wiring Make sure WS500 Ignore the Local Current Sensor? setting is Off We’re fortunate to have installed, commissioned and supported a ton of Nations + Wakespeed secondary alternator kits in our vans and customer’s rigs. What that really means is that we have experience from making a ton of simple mistakes when powering up these systems. One tricky aspect of the secondary alternator kits is that everything needs to be done correctly, otherwise no power may come out of the alternator. And well, massive power from the alternator is kind of the point. We recently posted a two-part blog series on Powering Up Your Camper Van For The First Time. Part I discusses steps to think about before or during your build, and Part II focuses on the steps to energize & configure your mobile power system. Think of this post as a special addendum for secondary alternator kit power on & troubleshooting, where we touch on common mistakes and quick fixes. Whether your system is 12 V, 24 V, or 48 V, these tips should help you. These tips focus on supported Wakespeed configurations such as Victron NG (or Smart) batteries, and like Part I says…we assume that you’ve double checked your wiring versus our example wiring diagrams. What to check first (30 second triage) Make sure that your BMS relay is set to Alternator ATC (allow-to-charge) mode. This setting can be done via Bluetooth using VictronConnect to your BMS. Without the relay mode configured, your Feature-In wiring isn’t complete. Triple check the wiring connections from the BMS to the Feature-In wire on the Wakespeed harness. If your wiring is wrong, the Wakespeed may be inhibited. Measure the Feature-In wire on the harness and you should see your system voltage when the system is running. Is your Wakespeed LED blinking a steady yellow/orange? If not, your Wakespeed is not in Sync mode to your BMS. Here’s the Wakespeed guide. Check your CAN bus connections and Victron Cerbo CAN settings. Both your BMS and your Wakespeed must be connected to the same CAN bus at the Cerbo. The CAN terminator (black for Wakespeed) is required on the unused Wakespeed port. Make sure that the appropriate Cerbo CAN bus is configured for VE.CAN & CAN-bus BMS (250 kbit/s). If these settings are correct, your Wakespeed will be visible on your Cerbo Devices list when your engine is running. Wakespeed WS500 & WS500 Pro configuration You really should understand your Wakespeed configuration, which is touched on in one of our secondary alternator system posts. With the newer WS500 Pro, either an Android or IOS device can be used. If you’re a customer with an original WS500, then it’s highly suggested to use a low-cost Android tablet for a USB OTG (On-The-Go) connection to the Wakespeed. Using the Wakespeed app, here are some quick checks: Is your firmware up to date? Wakespeed-Victron integration and features have improved over time. The Wakespeed guide linked above notes the minimum firmware version required, but we highly recommend updating both your Cerbo and Wakespeed devices to the latest revision. Make sure that DVCC is enabled on the Wakespeed. Using the Wakespeed app to Configure, in the System tab check that Support Victron DVCC? is ‘On’. Victron Cerbo: What “-- W” or negative numbers mean for alternator power Is your Cerbo reporting “-- W” for alternator power even though you’re seeing charging power into your batteries? Make sure that Ignore the Local Current Sensor? is ‘Off’ under Advanced Options in your Wakespeed app in the System tab. You’ll need to enable Expert Mode in the app settings, but you’ll need to act like an expert and follow Wakespeed’s guidance - don’t touch any of the red configuration fields unless you’ve read the manual and know what you’re doing! Why set Ignore the Local Current Sensor? to ‘Off’? Because two negatives make a positive in this case. You installed a current shunt to measure alternator power, so don’t ignore the current sensor and you’ll be seeing alternator power on your Cerbo! Is your Cerbo reporting negative power from the alternator? Check your gray & purple wires on the Wakespeed harness, and check the inline fuses too. The purple wire connects to the shunt on the alternator side, while the gray wire connects to the shunt on the battery side. If those wires are reversed, your regulator is reading the current backwards. You can either swap those wires physically or use the Wakespeed app to fix it - that’s why there’s a Is shunt backwards? setting in the System tab. Are you getting throttled? More tips for limited output power Make sure that Wakespeed DIP switch 8 hasn’t been inadvertently set to On, which forces the regulator into Small Alternator mode which has reduced power. Are your batteries already charged? If your Victron batteries have a State of Charge above the SoC Threshold in the BMS, then the algorithm controlling charging may be throttling charging power and optimizing your battery lifecycle performance. Don’t fret! Let your battery bank discharge, then try again to see if you’re getting the alternator charging power you expect. Don’t forget that secondary alternator performance is proportional to engine RPMs. Especially if you have 24 V or 48 V secondary alternators with limited idle power expectations, give the engine some gas before testing your output power. Also don’t forget that the Wakespeed Engine Warmup Delay needs at least 30 seconds, so give it some time and then some RPMs! Alternator temperature also impacts charging power. The Wakespeed will automatically reduce field drive and derate the alternator as temperatures increase, which leads to reduced power. You can check the alternator temperature from your Cerbo under Devices. Reduced power may be an expected situation to preserve the lifespan of your alternator! Safety reminder: Your power distribution may be energized by any of your charging sources, not just your secondary alternator. Ensure that all charging sources are disabled before conducting maintenance such as checking wiring. Use caution near hot items such as the alternator or electronics, and adhere to safety warnings such as spinning belts in the engine compartment. Got power now? Yay! If not, then bummer. But don’t worry, feel free to reach out to us because we’re here to help. Our tech support team will happily talk to you about the ways we’ve messed up building our systems. But then we’ll ask for pictures of your system, want you to get connected to VRM, and probably have you start working on a log file. You’ll be happily driving around recharging your system with massive power in no time! FAQ: Getting Power From Your Secondary Alternator System 1. What is the most common mistake in powering on my secondary alternator?Feature-In wiring is the most common issue leading to no power from a secondary alternator system. Check the ‘white wire’ wiring and make sure your BMS relay is set to Alternator ATC mode. 2. How do I connect to my Wakespeed regulator?WS500 Pro users can use Bluetooth to connect with the Wakespeed Configuration and Monitoring Utility App (IOS or Android). WS500 users require a physical USB connection using the App (Android) or software on a Windows PC. A low-cost Android tablet is highly recommended! 3. What are the Wakespeed LED blink codes?The Wakespeed regulator has a multi-colored LED. Somewhat surprisingly, a blinking yellow/orange LED is the desired blink code. Green LEDs means that your Wakespeed is not in Sync with your Victron Cerbo - check your CAN wiring and Cerbo CAN bus configuration. Red flashes are Error/Advisory codes - use the Wakespeed manual to identify the blink code and start troubleshooting. 4. Why am I getting reduced power from my Nations + Wakespeed system?Typical reasons to get some, but not full, power from your secondary alternator system are temperature derating, high State of Charge (SoC) on your batteries, and incorrect expectations of idle power. 5. Why does my Cerbo show “--W” for alternator power?The system needs an alternator shunt to measure alternator power, so that’s one reason we highly recommend wiring in a shunt. To see the shunt measurements on your Cerbo, make sure that Ignore the Local Current Sensor? is configured to ‘Off’ using the Wakespeed app. Related Resources Powering Up Your Camper Van Electrical System The First Time!: Part I and Part II Secondary Alternator System Blogs and Diagrams: 12 Volts, 24 Volts, and 48 Volts Nations + Wakespeed Secondary Alternator Kit and Electrical System Bundle Wakespeed basic configuration video
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Kick The Tires And Light The Fires: Turning On Your Camper Van Electrical System For The First Time! Part 2
If you’re building a camper van electrical system, or planning your vanlife power setup, the first power-up is a big milestone. This blog is Part II of a two-part series on powering up your camper van electrical system for the first time. Part I discusses steps to think about before or during your build, and Part II focuses on the steps to energize & configure your mobile power system. To be honest, planning for & commissioning your electrical system is a process, so if you missed Part I, give it a read first before diving in here. This blog hopes to provide some of the why to go along with the what when commissioning your electrical system. Your build is progressing, and you're almost ready to Turn. It. On. Does it feel a bit daunting? Turning your electrical system on for the first time can be as exciting as putting that first hole in your new rig. How many times did you measure before you cut? Working methodically to power your system on is the same idea! It's going to be okay, and here is a checklist for getting your system up and running. Every system is different, and you can find a bunch of different how-tos on the interwebs. Some manufacturers provide commissioning steps in their manuals too, as an example this procedure is a good list even if you don't have a Victron BMS. You did read the manuals for your equipment, right? Here’s our take on a solid approach to getting your electrical system up and running. Double check At long last, can we finally get on with the steps? Yes, of course, as long as you consider checking your connections as part of the turn up sequence. Incorrect wiring can cause damage. This section is called double check, but we really mean triple check. Step 1 - Test Your Lugs, Terminals & Ferrules Check that your lugs and ferrules are done properly. You are not trying to treat those connections with "kid gloves" either. If you can yank on a lug and it comes off, that's not good! You're relying on those connections to handle high currents and keep you safe. Lugs, ferrules and terminals should be secure and difficult if not impossible to remove with a simple pull. Let’s briefly touch on ferrules too, which can be new or difficult for some customers. Since tinned, stranded wire from brands like Ancor is preferred for environmental & vibration tolerance (e.g. your safety!) in mobile power systems, wire ends for screw terminal connections should use a ferrule. Generally, a hex ratcheting ferrule tool is preferred, as the round shape formed after the crimp fits best in most screw & spring clamp terminals. In some cases, for instance with the Orion XS DC-DC chargers using the recommended 6 AWG wire in our free example wiring diagrams, only a hex crimped ferrule will fit (and a square crimped ferrule will not due to the resulting shape). The Victron Multiplus II inverter/charger AC terminal blocks require 18 mm bootlace ferrules that are longer than what is provided in most ferrule kits, and using shorter ferrules may cause the terminal block spring clamps to come loose. Do yourself a favor and use the correct ferrules, even if you need to go replace a few connections before powering on your system. Part of double checking can include learning that a few minor changes can go a long way to improving the safety and reliability of your system. Step 2 - Properly Tighten Your Connections Not only do your connectors need to be done properly, but those connections must be tightened properly. Properly means that you're not a tire jockey tightening nuts with your air wrench! Whether it's Victron, Blue Sea, or any other manufacturer, your device manual provides torque specifications for the connections. So, please use a torque wrench! Step 3 - Review Every Connection in Your Wiring Diagram Review your wiring diagram. Review our complete set of example wiring diagrams. Depending on your system, you may use sections from more than one diagram. We recommend printing out your diagram(s), then highlight each wire & connection as you go through the double check on your system. While you're in the diagram, you did note all of the case & chassis case grounds, right? These safety connections are not optional. Check your MPPT case ground, your Multiplus PE connection, and of course your vehicle chassis ground connection. Step 4 - Check Your Fuses & Breakers Are all your fuses and safety devices installed? Remember that a fuse is sized to protect the wire. Double check that the correct fuse rating is installed in every location. Check your circuit breaker sizes too, and since we're almost ready to turn things on, go ahead and flip those breakers to the off position for now. Here's a quick tip for the Lynx Distributor: if you're not using every Mega fuse position in the Distributor, the LED will remain orange and not a happy green. With a Lynx Shunt or Lynx BMS connected to a Lynx Distributor, an empty Mega fuse slot will show up as an alarm because a blown fuse (i.e. an open fuse) looks no different than a missing fuse. We recommend mounting spare fuses in your unused Mega fuse slots. Hopefully you'll never need them, but maybe you'll be glad to have one handy in the future. Step 5 - Test Wiring with a Multimeter Use a multimeter to triple check those connections. Just to be clear, we're doing all of these checks before the system is energized! Check each load branch wiring for no "dead shorts", where the power and ground wires should show resistance and not be shorted together. Same for the AC wiring, where the hot and neutral should not be shorted. (Keep in mind that a Multiplus inverter/charger contains a ground relay that automatically connects neutral to the chassis ground if no AC input is supplied, so those AC wires may read as shorted.) Step 6 - Wrap It Up As you are wrapping up your double checks, it’s a good time to cover any exposed terminals to prevent damage from any accidental tool drop. Dress your cables with cable ties to minimize vibration and torque on equipment connections. Checklist for your wires and safety devices Test & inspect that you properly crimped your lugs, terminals, and ferrules Check that your connections are torqued to manufacturer specifications Review your wiring diagram and mark off that all wiring connections are as intended Check that your fuses & breakers are sized properly Test wiring for shorts & opens using a multimeter Install cable housings and cover any exposed terminals Finally! This is the moment where it all comes together. Start will all equipment switches turned off. Make sure the master battery switch or contactor in your BMS is off. If needed, temporarily remove fuses to keep sources and loads un-powered. Make sure your Multiplus inverter/charger switch is in the off position. As a reminder from Part I, we’re presuming that your batteries are fully charged before reaching this step. Work methodically! If something doesn't look right as you go through the steps, stop and assess. It's okay to power down, make a fix, and start over. And if you listened to our guidance for working on a testbed prior to a full camper van system, do as many steps as feasible...then get back to testing & building that rig! Here is our recommended turn-on procedure: 1) If your batteries have an on/off switch, go ahead and turn them on. If your system has a BMV-712, check your battery bank voltage now. Also check your battery using the manufacturer’s app if it has Bluetooth support. You’re looking to confirm that the batteries have no alarms and show very similar voltage readings. This tells you that your battery bank is successfully connected and ready to serve as an energy source for your system. 2) Turn the master switch or contactor on. Use a multimeter and check the voltage on your Lynx Distributor, it should (nearly) match your charged battery voltage. Use the battery and/or BMS app to check the battery voltage, current (should be a low number), and status. If you haven't already, make sure your battery BMS firmware is up to date. Some customers with a Victron BMS may run into a snag here and notice a pre-charge error. The BMS can be sensitive to capacitance and loads, particularly in complex systems with a Multiplus inverter/charger, a secondary alternator, or many other connections on the Lynx Distributor. If you get a pre-charge error, first check for real problems such as a short or incorrect connection on the distribution. If the connections are okay, you may need a simple workaround to sidestep the pre-charge error. One method is to enable one of your charging sources (see Step 4) to power-on the distribution side of the BMS before enabling the BMS contactor. This workaround pre-charges the distribution with a source other than the batteries through the BMS, therefore the BMS will correctly finish its turn-on sequence with no errors. Most customers can leave their system in on or standby modes after the commissioning steps are complete, so the pre-charge workaround is just a temporary annoyance. 3) If you have a Cerbo GX, it should be powered-up through your distribution. On your touch screen or app, check your Devices list and make sure your battery monitor is reading properly. This confirms that your shunt connection (either VE.Direct to a SmartShunt or CAN to a BMS) is correctly done. If your batteries have "Victron communications", also check your Cerbo Devices list to verify that your battery(ies) are present. You may need to change the CAN bus profile setting in your Cerbo GX to match your batteries and get Victron communications established. 3plus) Give your Cerbo GX some internet access! This step helps provide troubleshooting information for all the subsequent steps and makes it easy for you (and easy for us to help you). Ultimately, get access to your electrical system using the VRM as discussed in this blog. Using the touchscreen, connect to a WiFi network and set up the VRM. Make sure your Cerbo has the latest firmware. 4) Turn on charging sources one at a time. The order of charging sources to enable is not critical, but we suggest prioritizing the Multiplus inverter/charger, solar, DC-DC charger(s), then the secondary alternator kit. For each charging source, use the following steps: Check your battery monitor. Charging current should increase (and be a positive value) when the charging source is on. Check your Cerbo Devices list to make sure the device is communicating with your system. Update the firmware. Check and/or update the configuration to match manufacturer specifications. Periodically check your cables by hand or with a thermal imager. When charging heavily, some cables may be warm to the touch but not crazy hot. After checking one charging source, turn that source off and iterate on a different charging source. Keep it simple and methodical to safely check each part of your system. Once you've individually checked out each charging source, then you're ready to turn on multiple charging sources. There are some things to watch out for when turning on your charging sources. Apply battery power and turn on your Multiplus before connecting shore power. Here are some tips for programming your Multiplus. Charger settings: The devices do not come preconfigured for lithium batteries, so change that charge profile! Inverter settings: We recommend that the low voltage shutdown thresholds are set slightly higher than your BMS low voltage disconnect value. The inverter should turn off before completely discharging the battery bank, which could turn off your entire system. General settings: The default AC input current limit is 50 Amps, which is too high for most DIY garages & driveways using a standard 15 Amp household receptacle. Set that current limit before applying shore power, and let's not pop your circuit breaker or potentially damage your shiny new Multiplus, please?! We touched on solar in this blog. Your Victron MPPT PV (photovoltaic) voltage must be 5 Volts higher than your battery voltage for a charge cycle to start. Check that your alternator-based charging sources turn off when the engine is off but turn on when the engine is on. You want to ensure that your camper van starter batteries are not depleted by leaving a DC-DC charger on with the engine off. Our Victron & Sterling DC-DC chargers can be configured to detect voltages, detect vibration, and/or utilize external "remote" on/off connections to keep your van's two battery systems properly isolated. VictronConnect tip: After connecting to a MPPT or DC-DC converter via Bluetooth using the VictronConnect app, if your device is powered on but in the off state (i.e. not charging), you will see a Why is the charger off? line on the status page. Victron tells you the reason your device isn't charging, and that can be pretty handy! Even with your battery switch or BMS contactor open, any charging source that is enabled will energize your Lynx Distributor. Why? Because your charging sources and your loads are interconnected on your distributor. Your master battery switch or BMS contactor separates energy stored in your battery bank from the distributor but does not disconnect the other sources of power. Be cautious while testing or doing maintenance, and make sure that all batteries and charge sources are off when required. DVCC tip: DVCC is an algorithm running in your Cerbo that intelligently coordinates your smart charging sources to provide only the charging current desired by your batteries & BMS. It's not quite magic, but testing with DVCC enabled can yield confusing results. Typically, if your batteries are mostly full (above the SoC threshold, State of Charge in your battery monitor), then your charging source(s) may be throttled to optimize battery lifecycles. Don't panic if your DC-DC charger doesn't put out a full 50 Amps in that case. Another source of throttling is heat, so testing mid-summer in high ambient temperatures may limit charging performance. You may need to move on to the next step, enabling loads to discharge your battery bank with charging sources off, then return to re-examine your charging performance with a lower battery SoC. Need troubleshooting help? Don’t forget the cutting it in half approach as discussed in Part I. Our tech support team has tons of vanlife experience, so we’re here to help too. 5) Turn on loads one by one. Work through your checklist of all AC and DC loads. For each load, check with a voltmeter and look at your battery monitor or touch screen display. You should see an appropriate increase in AC or DC Wattage for each load. If your load reporting looks incorrect, double check your cabling, especially the chassis ground. Only the battery cables should be on the Battery Minus terminal of your BMS & shunt, and every other connection (like chassis ground!) should be on the distributor side. As with your charging sources, inspect your distribution and load cables & connections for excessive heat. 6) Check your battery monitor (i.e. shunt). Now that you can comfortably charge and discharge your batteries, make sure that your battery monitor is properly configured. In Victron-speak, you want to allow a successful synchronization so that the battery monitor correctly reports your SoC. After the first power up, the battery monitor may not show the correct SOC. To reach a synchronization (which can be checked using the VictronConnect app under History), first discharge the batteries to around 50% SoC using your loads, then turn off your loads and charge the batteries to 100% using a charging source (such as shore power which typically provides the fastest charging). Allow your system to complete a full lithium charging profile, transitioning from absorption (higher, constant current) to float (low current, constant voltage). If your battery monitor reports 100% SoC and shows a synchronization event, your battery monitor is properly configured and will provide correct SoC reporting. This step also ensures that any paralleled batteries in your battery bank are balanced, promoting equal sharing of the charging sources and loads from your batteries to prolong battery lifecycles. 7) Use your system and enjoy! Take advantage of the VictronConnect app and VRM to monitor your system performance. While this blog is about turning on your system for the first time, many customers are already thinking ahead about maintenance & battery storage. Self-discharge of lithium batteries is quite low, so typically we recommend that you don’t need to completely turn off your system when not in use. If you have internet access and are using the VRM, then leaving your system on and idle is quite helpful for remotely checking in on your rig. You may find it handy to turn your Multiplus inverter/charger to Charger mode, which disables the inverter and saves you the 20-30 Watts of idle power from being constantly consumed while you’re not using your system. To maximize your battery lifecycles, it’s recommended that lithium batteries are stored between 50%-70% SoC. Most importantly, lithium batteries have improved lifecycles when not exposed to high currents near 100% SoC. In other words, don’t leave your system plugged into a charging source constantly with your batteries at 100% SoC. If you have a system with Victron NG or Smart batteries with DVCC enabled, the good news is that your system is automatically being optimized and you don’t need to take any special storage precautions. Victron automatically keeps the SoC optimized while allowing charging to 100% once per month, which keeps the battery cells balanced. For more basic or value battery-based systems, you may need to be a little more mindful about lithium battery storage. You may wish to manually enable/disable charging sources to manage your battery SoC. If you can store your electrical system with shore power, an alternative is to adjust your configuration profile to a lower absorption voltage that will limit charging to around 70%. Don’t forget that you need to charge up to 100% every month or so to keep those battery cells balanced. Change your system configuration into normal mode to allow charging up to 100%, then return to a storage mode configuration until you’re ready to use that rig. Don’t forget to change back to normal mode to get the most performance out of your electrical system while you’re on that trip! Super-condensed power-on checklist Start will all loads and charging sources off Pre-charge your batteries and make parallel connections before turning batteries or battery switch on At each step of your power-on, use your device’s Bluetooth app and a multimeter to check status & power. Also check for excessive cable heating Use your battery monitor to check battery voltage, status, and current Update firmware on each device as you go If applicable, use your Cerbo to check that device communications are established. Set up your Cerbo VRM for remote monitoring and troubleshooting Turn on charging sources one at a time. Test each charging source by itself before using multiple charging sources together Turn on loads one at a time After checking your charging sources and loads, take your system through several discharge then charge cycles to balance your batteries and synchronize your battery monitor Don’t forget that storing & maintaining your batteries should be done at a lower State of Charge than your typical 100% pre-trip SoC Summary Successfully powering up your camper van electrical system for the first time is all about being methodical. There are four major steps in planning for & commissioning your system: Prepare your batteries Get familiar with your system with bench testing & incremental building Double check your wiring and connections Power up your batteries, charging sources, and loads in an orderly fashion, checking for voltage & heat at each step. Configure each device as you go. FAQ: Commissioning & Configuring Your Camper Van Electrical System What should I check before powering up my electrical system?Inspect every lug and ferrule, check torque specs, confirm correct fuse ratings, and use a multimeter to ensure there are no shorts between positive and negative wires. How do I safely turn on my camper van electrical system for the first time?Start with all switches off. Confirm battery charge and all connections before powering up. Power on your batteries then the master switch. Verify voltage before enabling charging sources or loads. How do I configure my Victron Multiplus inverter/charger for lithium batteries?Use the Victron VEConfigure software to change the charge profile to lithium, set inverter low-voltage shutdown slightly above your BMS cutoff, and reduce the AC input current limit to suit your shore-power source. What recommended order should I turn on my charging sources?Start with the Multiplus inverter/charger, then solar MPPT, DC-DC chargers, and finally any secondary alternator kit. Test one at a time before enabling them together. Why is my Victron BMS showing a pre-charge error?This can happen when capacitance or load prevents proper pre-charge. First check that there are no shorts on your Lynx Distributor. Enable one charging source to energize the distribution side before closing the BMS contactor, then retry. How do I synchronize my Victron battery monitor (BMV-712 / SmartShunt / Lynx Shunt / BMS)?Make sure to use a lithium-ion charging profile on your charger. Discharge batteries to ~50% SoC, then fully recharge until absorption transitions to float. Once the monitor shows 100% SoC and logs a “synchronization” event, calibration is complete. This can take some time, so be patient. How should I store lithium batteries in my camper van? Keep between 50–70 % SoC, avoid continuous charging at 100 %, and store in moderate temperatures. Systems with DVCC or Victron Smart / NG BMS manage this automatically.
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